Home Repairs

[Goonsquad 209]

Does Vinegar really get rid of mold?

http://www.dailyfinance.com/2012/08/21/save-and-spray-mold-away-savings-experiment/

[wrangler 157]

I, too, am interested in this. The last time I tried to find information on this, it didn't seem that I could find anything guaranteed to work.

I've got some stuff that picked up an odor, which we suspect is from mold or mildew, from an airplane I rented. This includes some books and papers; I have no clue how to eliminate the odor from those.

Febreze seemed to help on soft cases for headsets and other pilot stuff, and I'm hoping that the smell doesn't come back.

[Chadd 916]

We used a bleach solution and it worked great.

[chk hrd 164]

Does Vinegar really get rid of mold?

If it does it would be because of the high acid content. If it is a small area of surface mold a bleach solution is okay, just make sure it won't stain anything. If its on wood a light sanding will get rid of it. There is always freezing it. There are companies who use liquid nitrogen and blow it on the mold.

[RadioGaGa 162]

Does anyone know the Ontario building code minimum for distance between the stove and hood vent...I'm starting to think about kitchen re-designs and I want to put the microwave above the stove...but I've read varying reports (16", 18", 24" and 30") on where the vent has to go.

16 & 18" would probably still leave the microwave at a decent height...but 24" or 30" would have you reaching almost above your head to take hot stuff in and out...not ideal.

Lemme know...thanks

[team50 20]

Does anyone know the Ontario building code minimum for distance between the stove and hood vent...I'm starting to think about kitchen re-designs and I want to put the microwave above the stove...but I've read varying reports (16", 18", 24" and 30") on where the vent has to go.

16 & 18" would probably still leave the microwave at a decent height...but 24" or 30" would have you reaching almost above your head to take hot stuff in and out...not ideal.

Lemme know...thanks

Mine is a hair under 21 inches. It was professionally installed.

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[RadioGaGa 162]

I think I've heard Mike Holmes say 18" on his show....but he never goes by min. code. 20-21" sounds perfect.

Let the planning and saving begin!

[ktang 34]

Removed both skylights in their entireties from their curbs last weekend and this weekend, and re-sealed them properly with bitumous rubber sealant after fixing the metal flashing (was never flashed properly, three sides weren't even attached on top). Hopefully that fixes the last 1% of the leaks. If that doesn't do it, I might have to try it again next summer with those pre-molded corners.

At least now I know what's in the skylight structures. And my son was a great help, and seemed genuinely interested in how things are put together.

We got a hailstorm in September, and the outer layers of both skylights got holes in them. But they were still water tight, even with water collecting between the two layers and not being able to get out.

We were lucky; others had major leaks from the hail damage. So we're on the bottom of the repair list, might take another month for the insurance-approved repair people to get to us. And luckily it has been a warm autumn.

Just in time for winter: replaced the rotted stairs for the deck, removed the rocking master bathroom toilet in order to level the floor.

[hunt3rsean 44]

So, finally settled into the new house and looking into a couple spring/summer projects. I am looking for suggestions on maybe the best way to go about said projects since I'm a newbie to this. Here goes.....

Project #1: Re-grow grass in back yard. - The backyard of the house had grass at one point until all the leaves fell and killed it since no one was in the home to upkeep the yard. I now have a square patch of mud w/ grass patches on it. What is the best way to get the grass regrown? I've heard just fertilizer w/ seed now (Oregon winter/spring doesn't freeze and plenty of water from the rain). But when I do research online I keep seeing instructions on tilling and adding sand and so on. Just trying to find out the best way to go about it.

Project #2: Finish the garage. - The house has a decent sized garage attached, but it's unfinished. I'd like to add insulation because our washer/dryer are there. So doing laundry thus far has been a freezing adventure. What type of insulation is recommended for the walls and ceiling? I've already mapped out where I'd like to have my outlets and light switches. Also plan on installing an attic door for the ceiling as there will be some decent storage space. Again, just looking for suggestions from people who have done it. I've hung plenty of drywall so that won't be an issue other than it not being very fun to do.

[Chadd 916]

We've had our best luck growing grass with seed/fertilizer and a layer of straw.

[hunt3rsean 44]

What's the purpose of the straw? To help protect the seeds?

[Chadd 916]

Mostly, yes. Keeps birds from eating them, blowing away, rainwater from pooling and washing them away. One time we tried a matting with fertilizer but that was a mess and didn't work nearly as well.

[chk hrd 164]

Also keeps the temperature regulated

[RadioGaGa 162]

So, I'm looking at upgrading some elctrical in the house. I have Fuses....Going to go to Breakers. I also suspect there is some Aluminum wiring. Could mean a full re-wire. I called an Electrician to book an Estimate. He says....knowing the area I live in, i'ts likely not Aluminum wiring at all...it's probably old Knob & Tube.

I said "K&Twasn't mentioned in my inspectation." His response: Yeah, those things are great aren't they?"

Since I was expecting to have to re-wire most of it anyway....the cost will probably not be much different, but I'm just annoyed that I paid for the inspection and so far it turns out that he's been severely lacking in many areas that he said were "minor things"

[RadioGaGa 162]

Update: I've had to Electrician come through and look at the potential job...It's not K&T, btw....BX Metallic. I have 2 very different strategies before me.

#1. A full re-wire. Replace the Panel with Breakers. Re-run every light run, switch and plug in the house. Add a switch to existing sconces (sp?) in the living room. Add 2 plugs in the kitchen to bring it to code. Replace another with a GFI. Separate the Garage to it's own circuit (It's currently shared with multiple rooms in the house). Make a plug in the bathroom (already a GFI) an isolated circuit. Add 1 outdoor plug int eh backyard, replace some fixtures in the basement and do hard wired Smoke/CO2 detectors. He said to expect $5000 or so. He didn't say how long it would take or how many opening of walls/ceilings there would be. I'll inquire when he calls back with the final $. I assume it's a couple days at least.

After checking online, I found most electricians will quote per connection at a rate of anywhere between $70-$120 per. Doing my own math using his count of connections, and figuring $90 per...and $1000 for the panel, I get $4420. I'll have to see what his final number is.

#2. Replace the Panel and separate the garage to it's own circuit. Run a new split plug in the kitchen, replace the GFI. He said the second plug and the "code issue" that the first guy pointed out is not necessary. Re-run only 1 new switch to the Living Room sconces. No new fixtures. Minimal invasion and breaking of walls (if any). He said it's a 1 day job...power off at 8a...back on by dinner.

He didn't indicate or speculate a price...said he'd send a quote later today. I'm guessing something in the $1500-2500 range.

Not sure what to do. I have a 3rd guy coming tomorrow...I guess which ever way he goes is the way I will go...then it's a matter of taking the best of the similar quotes. It's so hard to compare these first 2, as they are so different.

[chippa13 1844]

Similar to plumbers, some electricians will overprice single residence work if they really don't want it but are willing to do it at the ridiculous estimate that they give. I'm guessing the first guy falls into that category.

[Chadd 916]

Running electric isn't that hard, especially if you use existing wiring to pull through the new stuff. Replacing it all also gives you the ability to fix any oddities that may have popped up over the years. No more having the garage door and bedroom lights on the same circuit. And yes, I have actually seen that. We just had some guys in to do estimates for central air and I'm going to have to put in a new sub panel, a couple new breakers and some wiring for the AC unit. With any luck I can get some help from one of the guys on my team.

[RadioGaGa 162]

chippa: Read a review of the first place...it said that the work was top notch, and the techs on site were great. That the work, when done, was billed at less than the quote. Then a few days later a second, itemized bill came that brought to total back to the quoted amount.

Chadd: My garage is on the same fuse as most of the main house (2 bedrooms and half of the living room). No matter who I get to do this, that will be fixed.

Once the wiring is done, I will be doing AC as well...already have a quote of $2000 installed.

[Chadd 916]

chippa: Read a review of the first place...it said that the work was top notch, and the techs on site were great. That the work, when done, was billed at less than the quote. Then a few days later a second, itemized bill came that brought to total back to the quoted amount.

Chadd: My garage is on the same fuse as most of the main house (2 bedrooms and half of the living room). No matter who I get to do this, that will be fixed.

Once the wiring is done, I will be doing AC as well...already have a quote of $2000 installed.

That's not bad at all. Unfortunately, I have hot water heat, so that means all new duct work.

[RadioGaGa 162]

3rd guy came today. Agrees with #2. No need to full re-wire. Separate the Garage, change the panel, do a few things in the kitchen/living room and leave it at that for now....he said $2000-2500 (Max). Probably going to go with him.

[RadioGaGa 162]

Heard a final number from the re-wire guy. $6800. I won't be going that route. Still waiting for the other 2 to send me final quotes. I have a serious issue with patience! As in - I HAVE NONE!

Looks like $5000 will be able to do the electrical upgrades without re-doing everything AND get Central Air installed.

[chk hrd 164]

before you pull the trigger make sure you do a background check on whoever is doing it. Check to make sure they are licensed, have insurance and do not have any ongoing issues with the building department. See if you can find out about previous customers and what they had to say. Don't pay them up front and if you provide a deposit make sure you know what it is for. If it was me I would go as far as getting lien releases from any suppliers and labor releases if they have employees do the work. Get EVERYTHING in writing with a contract. Cover all of your bases, permits (who pays and pulls), inspections, start times, finish times, delays, etc. It is your hard earned money being spent, don't be afraid to ask for things or require paperwork. If they won't provide it to you that's not a good sign.

There are alot of fishy people in construction. I have seen to many get burned by just a handshake.

[Monty22 833]

Pay with accredit card whenever possible. That will give you some recourse if things go sideways with a contractor. I got a full refund from Visa after a roofing contractor decided to make the hole in my roof worse, and use sub standard materials in doing so. Guy was highly regarded as well, with excellent references.

[Jason Harris 31]

Unfortunately, I have hot water heat, so that means all new duct work.

I'm on hot water heat as well, so I once asked a guy who worked in the industry if there was an equivalent of sorts to AC. I've never verified this, but he that it's possible to set up a bypass of piping into the ground. It would be closed off during the winter, then opened up to allow cold water to run through the pipes during the summer.

[DLK 0]

Sure, it's just a geothermal system - technically a ground-source heat pump.

No real value in closing it off in the winter - properly installed, such a system acts as both heating and cooling. Ground temperature is fairly consistent year-round, so as long as the heat exchange system and ground-loop tubing run are sized properly, it can keep the house at a fairly consistent room temperature year-round too.

Initial setup cost can be pretty high, but in my opinion it definitely is the way to go if you'll be in the house for a while...especially if you need to replace part or all of your current system.

The math is different for every house, but it's not unusual to recoup the total cost and be ahead financially in five years or so, especially if you can get a rebate/tax incentive where you live.