Problem with choosing a new stick

[lardneau 0]

Hei all! I'm not excactly sure if i'm supposed to start a new thread about this or should i write to some other topic that's already started. If so, i apologize and i hope moderators can move this thread..

So, at the moment I have Bauer ONE75 SE with P92 Lie 6 blade. The flex is 77 and the stick has been cut maybe an inch or so. In the past I've had sticks like Easton S17 (broke, didn't like it), NikeBauer ONE90 with grip and without it (absolutely loved those, had like 3 or 4 of those, but all of them broke from the same place, heel of the blade), NikeBauer ONE95 (it was flex 67, so it wasn't stiff enough), NikeBauer XXXX (was the backup of ONE90 at the moment, I preferred the ONE90, it was okay though), CCM U+ CL and some other CCM, but didn't like them at all. All of the sticks have had the same curve, P92 (or similar with Easton's Sakic and CCM's 19)

I play defense and i have HUGE problem with my shots being too high. It's frustrating when i can't take a fast wrist shot from the blueline without worrying it hitting someone's throat or head. I've tried shooting the puck lower changing my technique but it seems that it just won't work.

I've come to a conclusion that maybe i should try some different curve with my blade. I've been thinking Bauer's blade pattern P106, as it's a little bit more closed than P92, but am I going to the wrong direction with that curve? It seems that for example you can't have Bauer's ONE100 with that blade at all. I've loved Bauer's Supreme- series and I think that I'm going to continue with that. I especially need help with choosing my blade curve, because as you can read I don't have any experience with other curves or blade types. Ideas or advices for me ?

Thank you all! Have a great second half of the season!

PS. I apologize for my bad english (i'm from Finland), hope you can all understand what i'm trying to say here :-)

[starsfan71 9]

Hi and welcome to the boards!

It seems like you are probably shooting a little too high because of the curve you are using, the p106 still tends to raise the puck a lot especially (in my opinion) when shooting slapshots. The pm9 Malkin curve (at least what the curve is in North America) is my personal favorite, it is a small mid heel curve with a face that is only slightly open, another curve that I find it easier to keep shots low with is the P88 Kane or Lindros curve.

[sharks25 9]

I would say look for a p88 since you are used to a deeper curve. The pm9 may feel wierd to stickhandle with and take some time to get used to.

[watchgreat 4]

I second the p88 because its more closed then the p92. By the way your english is fine.

[steelnation248 102]

I was also going to suggest the p88. One thing to consider is that while the p106 is listed as a 6 lie, I've heard it plays more like a 5 lie. (Granted, I have not personally used this curve but I've heard it stated on here before and it's listed as a 5 lie in the MSH Pattern DB.) The p88 and p92 have pretty similar characteristics overall, the p88 just has a neutral instead of an open face like the p92.

[flyers10 57]

Go with the P88. Used to use one and was great for low slappers and wristers from the point. P92 is better for in close shots you may need to get up high fast.

[fiimb 1]

word of caution about the p88 is it has a lower lie than the p92. this might throw you off at the start.

i'd recommend the p106 over the p88 because of the lie. as far as "openess" they're just about the same, except the p106 is a heel and the p88 is a mid. both are still more closed than the p92. unless you're a huge puck handler then p106 won't have much downside compared to the p88.

the p106 is a lie 6, but because of the rocker on it its passable as a lie 5 (the heel portion is very rounded, think field hockey stick, but the mid and toe portion is pretty flat, this is why you can play it like a lie 5 but its listed as a lie6)

for the last 2 years i've been using the p106 and p88 curves exclusively.

[sharks25 9]

I think the lower lie would be better for him because he is breaking blades on the heel. He might be impacting the heel hard on slapshots which would weaken it. The switch to the p88 would solve his shot and possibly his stick breaking.

[lardneau 0]

Thank you all for your help ! It sounds like I'm going to go with the P88 curve instead of P106, I'm probably going to try both of them though.

Someone mentioned that maybe I'm weakening my heel of the blade because I'm impacting my slap shots from there. I think you are correct. It can't be a coincidence that all of my sticks break from the heel. Also while I see my tape on my stick wearing off from the center of the blade like it's supposed to, my heel of the blade has "marks of war" and it's pretty worn out every single time.

Bauer ONE100 with P88 curve sounds pretty good ;).

Thanks guys !

[Action Jackson 0]

Thank you all for your help ! It sounds like I'm going to go with the P88 curve instead of P106, I'm probably going to try both of them though.

Someone mentioned that maybe I'm weakening my heel of the blade because I'm impacting my slap shots from there. I think you are correct. It can't be a coincidence that all of my sticks break from the heel. Also while I see my tape on my stick wearing off from the center of the blade like it's supposed to, my heel of the blade has "marks of war" and it's pretty worn out every single time.

Bauer ONE100 with P88 curve sounds pretty good ;).

Thanks guys !

Also keep in mind your flex. A softer flex will help you raise the puck more (atleast in my experience). Stiffer shafts will usually help keep it lower. But then theres the whole "Wizard not the wand" thing. All personal preference, just figured I'd throw that tad bit out there.

[beaverpower 0]

I went from a p92/Sakic to a p88 Kane/Lindros very easily. My shot is much more accurate, better backhand and I can still get it top shelf in close. Should not be too big of an adjustment for you.

[srv2miker 0]

Why don't you pick up a shaft and a couple of blades and then try them both out?

[watchgreat 4]

I second the blade/shaft idea

[Travimo 0]

I went from a p92/Sakic to a p88 Kane/Lindros very easily. My shot is much more accurate, better backhand and I can still get it top shelf in close. Should not be too big of an adjustment for you.

I just did last week too, loving the p88. Backhanders are so much easier now, didnt have too much of a problem with stickhandling or anything compared to the Sakic and its much easier to keep shots lower

[watchgreat 4]

i may try out blade shaft combo myself. i wanna try out a drury and p88

[mug25 2]

Why don't you pick up a shaft and a couple of blades and then try them both out?

Definitely the cheapest route. You dont wanna be a dumbass like me and blow $$$ on a stick with a pattern you cant stand.

[elihl6 0]

Personally, I have been playing basically the same shaft/blade combo (now in OPS) for 15+ years and am biased - x-stiff flex with slight mid-heel curve and 5-5.5 lie - PM9/Zetterberg/Modano, but thought I would still throw these comments out there.

Basically just confirming what others have mentioned/suggested.

Ideally, you might want to move to a slightly stiffer flex (maybe the 87, depending how much you cut things down) and the PM9, but to ease the transition, the P88 would be in the middle and not such a large transition.

Also, the lie change that's been mentioned is a good point. A lot of the kids I coach (Varsity/U18) just aren't aware of the impact (no pun intended) that lie makes, yet they make comments of - "blade keeps cracking at the heel." I even had a small issue with this myself, when I was sent a wrong pattern, but tried to make due.

So yes, switch to the P88 first, or even better, purchase a shaft and blade combo. This way you can try the various combinations, and if you find it's the blades cracking on you the most, it would be the most cost-effective approach.

I tend to break my sticks at the flex point, so I haven't had much issue shifting to one-piece. However, I do have a buddy I still play with that just switched back to shaft/blade because he was finding his OPS' blade broke before he was breaking them at the shaft(s).

Just food for thought. Hope it helps!

[jg144 0]

i switched to the p88 today from the sakic great blade!!! i used it for stick and puck and then a game...the p88 felt better than the sakic ive been using for a year... i would def rec the p88... you might wanna consider changing your flex to something higher than a 77 like maybe an 87 or higher too much whip can send pucks flying!!!

[Yinzer57 0]

Definitely the cheapest route. You dont wanna be a dumbass like me and blow $$$ on a stick with a pattern you cant stand.

Or me, I have been away from the game for awhile (10 years) and have been shopping one piece sticks with different curves. Several looked great while in the store, but on the ice just are too upright of a lie for me. I have been using a Supreme One 60, 87 flex, with the P88 pattern. I liked it alot, but got stuffed by a goalie when I caught a pass in the slot and proceeded to not get the puck up and shot it right into his left pad. I let it get in my head and started looking for more of a deeper open curve that would help. Because obviously a new stick, not more practice is what was needed! Got another One 60(also 87flex) with the P92 6 lie, and kept losing pucks under the toe as it was way too upright for me. So, I thought I would get smart and buy a cheaper stick with a curve I seemed to like. I tried some Reebok 5ks with 87A curve in 85 flex and love the curve, but the blades and the sticks were too soft and flexed far too much, I lost all of my slap shot velocity and alot off my wrister. So,now I am toying with an Easton SE16 shaft with an SE16 blade in a Sakic and it is very nice, but the weight and the liveliness of the blade will take some getting used to. In warm ups the other night, I had passes bouncing up and around on the blade and knew I needed more time with it to see if I could get used to it. So, after 3 sticks and about $250.00 I used my P88 curve on my one 60, and fell in love with the stick and curve all over again. I will probably upgrade to a total one shaft and P88 blade in hopes that I will save a few bucks over the one piece models with the combo. How dumb am I though? I spent enough money shopping sticks to get a total one, and after all this I went right back to the Bauer stick with the original curve I had? Golf and hockey are my only vices in life and I am fortunate enough in my profession that I can now afford this stuff(unlike when I grew up poor), so I think it is funny. My wife however, is growing quite concerned with my ever growing stick collection.

[JSheets15 0]

I have a question along the same lines, didn't want to start a new thread.

Being fairly new to hockey, <1 year, I had no idea what lie meant until today. I have 2 sticks, a Rbk 5K Crosby curve (5 lie) and a Bauer x40 p88 curve (5.5 lie). Both sticks are showing significant tape wear on the heel of the blade. I assumed it was just a technique issue but I think it may be because the sticks are too long. My question is, how does lie affect stick length? Does a lower lie require a shorter stick? Also, should lie be the most important factor in choosing a blade pattern?

[CAmmon 2]

Yes, the heel tape wear can be because of a stick that is too long. Cutting the stick will help with the lie issue.

[toddmanley 0]

Yes, the heel tape wear can be because of a stick that is too long. Cutting the stick will help with the lie issue.

Totally agree here. When I first started playing I thought I needed a longer stick because of my height. But since then I've slowly been cutting down my twigs until they're now about 4" shorter than what I started with...the wear pattern my stick has gone from the heel to now being centered on the blade.

[Larry54 243]

I have a question along the same lines, didn't want to start a new thread.

Being fairly new to hockey, <1 year, I had no idea what lie meant until today. I have 2 sticks, a Rbk 5K Crosby curve (5 lie) and a Bauer x40 p88 curve (5.5 lie). Both sticks are showing significant tape wear on the heel of the blade. I assumed it was just a technique issue but I think it may be because the sticks are too long. My question is, how does lie affect stick length? Does a lower lie require a shorter stick? Also, should lie be the most important factor in choosing a blade pattern?

It's the opposite. A higher lie requires holding the stick more upright so it needs to be shorter. Having tape wear closer to the heel means you either need a lower lie if you want to keep the same stick length, or you need a shorter stick if you want to keep the same lie.