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JIMRB96

Skate sharpener diamond dresser replace?

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I have a wissota. The finish on my blades is slightly wavy and there is a faint line all the way down the blade (lengthwise). I know I'm not yet as consistent with pressure as I am on a bm table top. But could this be from a bad/old diamond? A friend thought my wheel could be off balance but I doubt it. The wheel is about 1/2 way used. Any thoughts? Also throw in what your using as far as lube on the last pass.

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Pressure is the biggest factor, but a nice, light oil on the last pass would probably help. I believe any light oil will work, but I use the blackstone branded product.

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Any off the shelf oil (hardware store)or should I go with a bm or bs product. Thanks for input. What should I notice if the diamond is getting worn? As far as even pressure, is adding a bit more pressure helps keep it even is that ok? I feel like on the table top I hardly use any pressure and get great shine. But can't seem to fix it with the Wissota.

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What does it sound like when you sharpen a skate? If it is a loud chattery grinding sound you have a bad dress/diamond. Double check the wheel and make sure it is tight, because that can cause the wavy lines too. If you are doing a light, slow final pass and still getting lines you have a bad dress on the wheel. Dry re-dressing it and if you still aren't getting good results replace the diamond.

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Thx Buzz. Definetly not pushing to hard. The heel, I go heel to toe with grind, is perfect for the initial contact area which is usually slightly more pressure than the rest of the pass. I know this isn't good but I'm still developing consistency. That's why I'm leaning toward either the diamond, maybe more pressure and surely consistency from pass to pass. So everyone uses some brand name lubes from skate shops. Ill be ordering some next.

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So everyone uses some brand name lubes from skate shops. Ill be ordering some next.

I just ran out of Fine Shine and I started trying some metalworking lubricant for tapping and grinding, etc. I have found that instead of one final pass to completely get rid of the fish scale and/or waviness I need to do 2 or 3 "final" passes. So this stuff is definitely doing something different than the Fine Shine. It is still not heating up the blade excessively after three "final" passes, so I guess it's OK, except for the extra work it takes.

In the past when I have accidentally dripped some Fine Shine on the table I have noticed that the next day it has emulsified into a waxy sort of stuff. The metalworking lube doesn't do this, so there is definitely something different in the composition of the two.

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I don't use oil.

I use a metalworking lubricant in push-up tube form. Less mess, doesn't gum up wheel and extremely cheap to boot - there's a skate sharpening supply shop that merely puts their label on it and sells it for 3x the price.

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I don't use oil.

I use a metalworking lubricant in push-up tube form. Less mess, doesn't gum up wheel and extremely cheap to boot - there's a skate sharpening supply shop that merely puts their label on it and sells it for 3x the price.

This stuff I'm using is a liquid (oil) but I have seen the stuff you are talking about and I wondered if that would work. I'll get some. Thanks!

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I'm going to try some of the stuff JR mentioned. Get a new diamond and a new wheel to boot. Then ill be able to start weeding out to find the reason for my "scaling". Thanks or the posts all!!!

Anybody know if any other brand wheels fit the wissota? I know the diamond must be wissota. Not sure of the wheel arbor though.

Is there a skate sharpeners section on here anywhere?

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Thx Forbs. Just saw your first post. How much does staying in the same place on the wheel while sliding the skate through have to do with it. I'm pretty sure the diamond is bad. I got the machine used and it looks like the diamond was abused a bit. Any wissota owners on here? I wonder about the square of the wheel vs the table. I just noticed its slightly off. This could be a huge problem or not at all. But would surely cause issue dressing the wheel. I wonder if there I a way to recenter the motor portion using normal garage tools. Thoughts?

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Thx Forbs. Just saw your first post. How much does staying in the same place on the wheel while sliding the skate through have to do with it. I'm pretty sure the diamond is bad. I got the machine used and it looks like the diamond was abused a bit. Any wissota owners on here? I wonder about the square of the wheel vs the table. I just noticed its slightly off. This could be a huge problem or not at all. But would surely cause issue dressing the wheel. I wonder if there I a way to recenter the motor portion using normal garage tools. Thoughts?

If the wheel is even a little loose on the hub it will cause issues. Take the cover off and make sure the wheel is tightened all the way down. I helped a friend get their wissota holder squared up and they had a table that was slanted a little. It didn't seem to be an issue. I got their holder squared for them, sharpened 3 pairs of skates and had square edges front, middle, and back of all six skates.

If you are in doubt about the diamond, just replace it. You will know right away if that was your issue. If not, now you have a back-up diamond and you can troubleshoot to find out what is causing the problem.

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A bar of Ivory soap is another finish lube option..

It is. I prefer to use this over the normal finish options, however, I do not anymore as it gets really messy. With the oil I don't notice it as much.

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I'm gonna try the lube tube from the hardware store.

1. Called wissota In taking with Bill I believe the machine squareness isn't an issue like mentioned.

2. I slowed my final pass way down and after working on consistent pressure and consistent slow speed all the way down the blade I got much better results. Went way slower than my final pass on a BM. Yay.

3. For wissota users out there have you ever tried one of these 12mm diamonds on eBay? eBay search "12 mm shank diamond tip pen" $11.24 from china. I wonder if its close enough or exactly the same thing, to work.

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Bill is a nice guy, I talked to him once or twice when I had a Wissota. No matter what you do, you will never get as nice a finish on the Wissota as you do on a full size machine. I had one for a few years and it was better than nothing. I don't trust most of the chinese knockoffs.

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No matter what you do, you will never get as nice a finish on the Wissota as you do on a full size machine. I had one for a few years and it was better than nothing. I don't trust most of the chinese knockoffs.

I disagree. I've had several Wissota's (along with an Easy-Sharp, Blackstone X-01, and my current machines: Blademaster BR821 & SPB851) over the past 10 years & when properly set up, the Wissotas were able to give as good of a finish as any I've seen. They are a quality (USA) manufacturer of industrial grinders, & their design where the motor is clamped to the heavy table casting does a better job of dampening any vibration from the wheel.

I've never heard of a Chinese knockoff skate sharpener, but I wouldn't trust one either.

Does the machine have a pink wheel? The grey is too coarse for a fine finish.

I did have a problem once when Wissota stopped making their own grinding wheels & sourced them out of Mexico. I got one that was out of balance, perhaps that's your problem here. They promptly sent a replacement that ran fine, but in the meantime I came up with an even better solution; I made an adapter out of lexan to run the wheels from my full size Blademaster on my Wissota. The only issue is that the Wissota takes a one inch smaller (7") wheel so I would just run it on the big machine till it would fit on the Wissota. They are slightly thinner (thus lighter), so they ran even smoother. And more choices of wheel type. That also kept a fresh wheel more often on the stationary machine. The adapter just needs to be 1 1/4" OD with a 1/2" hole approx 3/8" thick.

Also you might consider having that old diamond arbor drilled & tapped for a 1/4" NF thread so you can use it to hold a conventional dressing diamond. Just have the same amount of length removed, or have it done on the back end & get another sticker for the hollow graduations from Wissota.

These mods worked great for me & both are simple projects for any machine shop, or a friend with a metal lathe :-).

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To all, thanks for the help/input. I got a new diamond which made a difference. I found that a little bit more pressure took out the chatter or bounce as I was not pressing the steel to the stone quite hard enough. I slowed the final pass way down and continue to become more consistent in speed from end to end. Still using Irish spring soap for that shiny finish and adds a nice aroma. I had to recalibrate the dresser and the holder to find the crown a bit better and oh ya, went to the local HD and bought a generic cross grinding wheel. Took the 1/2 to 1/1/4 inch arbor out. Cut it in half and can put a 7" or smaller blademaster wheel on the wissota. This is nice because actually love the smooth finish if the bm figure skate light pink wheel. I can get 4"-5" wheels from the rink when they toss them. I have the thing so tuned now I can do 2/4 passes and b done unless I have large chunks. As I skate on 3/4 to 1 inch this is nice because I can keep my edges fresh without sacrificing blade. Thanks all again and thanks to Bill at wissota who returned a call while on vacation ( I told them it could wait!!!)

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