Sharpening Questions

[MR MIZUN0 0]

Quick question for those of you who sharpen skates...After recently learning how to sharpen skates, I became quite confused today!! After 5 passes on my one skate, I checked to see if the edges were level in three spots on the blade. Towards the toe, the inside edge was barley off from level, center of blade was level, and the rear of the blade's outside edge was off. If that makes sense, the level reading went from low inside edge, even, high inside edge (from toe to heel). After adjusting the holder multiple times, I could only get the edge level to within one mark on the level on the toe and heel. Whereas my other skate I got dead on level throughout the 3 points.

After talking with the guy who taught me, he said it could just be a minor way in which the skate was clamped, and reclaimed in between passes (took skate out to check edges, and stone them). Is there any secret to getting level edges quickly? I must have spent 20-30mins on my one skate. The steel was not warped either, as it was checked to rule that that.

The guy that taught me was taught through Maximum Edge if that means anything...

Thanks

[Chadd 916]

I never take the skate out of the holder from start to finish. Every once in a while I will get a skate that is problematic, but 99.9% of the time, it's a smooth process.

[shoeshine boy 242]

I never take the skate out of the holder from start to finish. Every once in a while I will get a skate that is problematic, but 99.9% of the time, it's a smooth process.

this. I would think it's almost impossible to get the skate clamped down exactly the same way so moving it is just a disaster waiting to happen.

[JR Boucicaut 3804]

this. I would think it's almost impossible to get the skate clamped down exactly the same way so moving it is just a disaster waiting to happen.

The Maximum Edge method calls for removal of the skate, then hone and reclamp and a final pass. That's where he's getting that from.

It's certainly not impossible - just requires a good memory, but it's done MUCH easier if you put a spring in the holder bolt.

All of my skate holders (home/work) are set up that the screw stays in the same spot every time.

You put a spring around the bolt, and calculate the distance so that it fits a skate blade, with the brass clamp handle tightened half-way up. Then I notch the top of the bolt, and I know that when it faces down it's set for a player skate. A goal skate (depends on 3 vs 4mm) is either a half turn counterclockwise or 3/4 turn.

That way it does two things - maintains consistency because the bolt will always be in the right distance and the handle is pulled to the right distance. It also keeps the holder level when it goes from person to person, because people have different strengths and may tighten more than someone else.

So, needless to say, all of my staff can sharpen with confidence and don't have to fiddle much with the holder when they go from skate to skate.

[MR MIZUN0 0]

JR, the holder I was using too also had a spring just like the picture you posted above. I was using a method (reference to a clock face) that once the skate is in the holder, at the 10 o'clock position the lever should not be able to move until the 12 o'clock position with very very little pressure, so when put at the 12 o'clock position, the skate was simply "snug" in the holder. Each pair I sharpened I would have to adjust the screw to maintain the skate was in the holder "snug." At first I couldn't believe how loose or "barley snug" the skate was actually in the holder!! How tight should the clamp be placed on a skate to be in the holder?

I am just a perfectionist trying to get the little tricks down. It took me near 40min to sharpen my skates, but I had my buddy at the shop (trained at ME) said that for my first time it was a dam good job. I am used to sharpenings where you could visibly see the metal grain on the bottom of the blade, and the edges would be way off!!

Another quick idea though: I used the level on my iPhone to check my edges, and turned up with the same results as the edge check from the shop. I was off by 2 degrees towards the toe, even in the center, and 1 degree off towards the heel. Is this enough deviation to even notice when I am skating?

[JR Boucicaut 3804]

I think you're going at it wrong - as in you're not hitting the blade fully. You're probably coming in at an angle at the toe, straight down the blade, then out at an angle.

Watch your sparks and work on your pass motion. Make sure you have even pressure on the ball grips/jig.

[Chadd 916]

this. I would think it's almost impossible to get the skate clamped down exactly the same way so moving it is just a disaster waiting to happen.

One of the local shops does the ME method and they constantly have issues with uneven edges. I'm just a little anal and prefer to have fewer places where things can go wrong. Then again, I usually hit the skates with a stone before I start sharpening and again once I am done. If I need to stone them again during the process, I leave them in the holder.

[forbs02 20]

Blademaster makes a gauge that you can use to check edges while it is still on the holder.

[JIMRB96 0]

I may have missed it but what system are you using? I've had this problem once with a wissota being slightly out of whack with the toe end being slightly higher than the heel so that matter the tangent they were a hair off. But a low back even middle and high front sounds like the sled just needs to be adjusted for the specific blade thickness. I also find that once I have a skate with level edges its must faster next time around cuz the witness marks at center will get you there quick.

[MR MIZUN0 0]

So I spent a few hours in the shop today, and can get the edges even, even while taking the skate out of the holder...granted it might take me longer than someone who has been sharpening for a long time, I can get them even. My only trouble some problem now is the finishing pass. I get very very faint "chatter" marks that appear then looked at with a light shining on them at the right angle. Does this faint chatter really make a difference if I can still get a good mirror like finish.

I get to skate tomorrow, so I feel confident that I sharpened my own skates and am looking forward to see how I did for myself. I hope its better than that usual "sharp/jagged" metal grain sharpening that I was so accustomed to.

[JIMRB96 0]

the chattermarks are probably like what I call orange peel and will go away as you become more consistent in your final pass. I notice my finish is best when very very very slow and pressure just right and consistent through the pass. On the ice you won't notice. The most important thing is even edges and equal passes on each skate (to ensure even blade wear). Find an old pair to practice with whenever you feel like and don't get frustrated. sometimes close enough is good enough, unless you're getting paid. I tried for perfection when I was learning only to be let down, a few years later every pair off my machine is pristine!

[Chadd 916]

So I spent a few hours in the shop today, and can get the edges even, even while taking the skate out of the holder...granted it might take me longer than someone who has been sharpening for a long time, I can get them even. My only trouble some problem now is the finishing pass. I get very very faint "chatter" marks that appear then looked at with a light shining on them at the right angle. Does this faint chatter really make a difference if I can still get a good mirror like finish.

I get to skate tomorrow, so I feel confident that I sharpened my own skates and am looking forward to see how I did for myself. I hope its better than that usual "sharp/jagged" metal grain sharpening that I was so accustomed to.

Do you use a lubricant on your finishing pass? That makes the last pass a lot smoother.

[oldtrainerguy28 478]

I just had this happen this weekend at the big tourny in Toronto. A guy came in I could see the bend in the blade. It had to come off the holes were way out. Turned out though it was the 1 piece holder runner where the blade was actually askew in the holder and nothing could be done to fix it.

Needed new holders and runners. I did the best I could at straightening it and they were happy but he knew they needed to be changed after this weekend was done!

[MR MIZUN0 0]

Do you use a lubricant on your finishing pass? That makes the last pass a lot smoother.

Yes, I used a glaze on the finishing pass...I think I just need to remind myself that I need to keep the holder moving, but yet consistently and very slow. The finishing passes done by the two other guys in the shop turn out looking like a mirror finish, they are very consistent when it comes to their finishing pass. Its just time and patience though, so I will keep at it.

How long did it take you guys to get consistently level edges and a mirror like finishing pass?

[Chadd 916]

Yes, I used a glaze on the finishing pass...I think I just need to remind myself that I need to keep the holder moving, but yet consistently and very slow. The finishing passes done by the two other guys in the shop turn out looking like a mirror finish, they are very consistent when it comes to their finishing pass. Its just time and patience though, so I will keep at it.

How long did it take you guys to get consistently level edges and a mirror like finishing pass?

Level, not too long. Fantastic final pass, a lot longer. But I only had ten minutes of training and there weren't any websites like this where people shared their tips when I was learning.