Skate shims: what size?

[Bbd94 26]

So I've read all the threads on skate shims and can't for the life of me find what "size" is generally used 

 

If anyone saw my post in the VH thread I'm possibly going to order another pair with built in shims. Shops around me have said they cannot do it. 

 

What size is common for over probation? I've read 1/8"... I've read 1/4"... Too much variation. Help!

[Monty22 833]

I would imagine the size is very dependent on your degree of over pronation. You should probably experiment with shim width and get that dialed in prior to ordering skates with a built in shim.  Ordering the wrong shim set up could cause more problems than you are trying to correct. 

[Bbd94 26]

37 minutes ago, Monty22 said:

I would imagine the size is very dependent on your degree of over pronation. You should probably experiment with shim width and get that dialed in prior to ordering skates with a built in shim.  Ordering the wrong shim set up could cause more problems than you are trying to correct. 

Yeah I think you're right was just wondering what generally is used first. Like what range is generally used

[Vet88 674]

If you are trying to work it out yourself, start small as in 1mm thick and then keep changing them out for thicker ones depending on how the boot feels on your foot when you skate, one foot balance drills will tell you pretty quickly if the thickness is right.

If you see a foot specialist who works with ice skaters, they should get you to stand on a balance board that replicates the feel of an ice skate under your foot. It measures the pressure points across your feet and cameras front / rear / sides show your foot and body alignment. Then by moving your foot across the board to simulate blade alignment and adding wedges to either simulate an orthotic or a shim, they can work out what works best for you.

[Bbd94 26]

2 hours ago, Vet88 said:

If you are trying to work it out yourself, start small as in 1mm thick and then keep changing them out for thicker ones depending on how the boot feels on your foot when you skate, one foot balance drills will tell you pretty quickly if the thickness is right.

If you see a foot specialist who works with ice skaters, they should get you to stand on a balance board that replicates the feel of an ice skate under your foot. It measures the pressure points across your feet and cameras front / rear / sides show your foot and body alignment. Then by moving your foot across the board to simulate blade alignment and adding wedges to either simulate an orthotic or a shim, they can work out what works best for you.

Very helpful, thank you. Actually was just out today and found out that the (I think) manager of Total Hockey can do it for me. So with shims he'll start me off with an amount that could work for me, and if it doesn't I just go back for a thicker one? If I'm understanding that correctly? As long as it's not a nuisance doing so. Never took tried messing with the holder on a boot before so.

 

[malcb33 97]

I just replied to your post in the VH thread. The short story is, I would strongly recommend professional advice before going down this route. 

[Bbd94 26]

Just an update here and a question:

 

So I have the Total Hockey by me installing a 1/16" shim on  both skates for the pronation. Very good service. Going to pick them up tomorrow and maybe skate this weekend or whenever.

 

Hoping I like it but what if the 1/16" is too thin? It looked pretty thick but what's generally above it (just in case)?  Just stacking two 1/16" on top of each other to make a 1/8"? 

 

Thanks 

Edited March 24, 2016 by Bbd94

[ABodie 1]

I know it may not be the fastest method, but I normally start small and work my way up with regards to thickness. I'll usually rely on my customer's feedback and I'll also go out and watch them skate to figure out if we need to add more height. As far as how tall you can make it, I've gone all the way up 1/4" for a shim for pronation and supination and recently just shy of 1/2" lift for a customer who had one leg shorter than the other. I'll admit I was a little skeptical whether or not I would be able to do 1/2" lift, but I used a few extra coppers to really anchor everything down and haven't had any problems. 

 

If they don't have anything thicker than the 1/16" plastic, they can always stack them on top of one another. That being said, Graf makes 1/4" plastic sheets specifically for shimming.

 

If you'd like, I can attach pictures of the thick shims and what it looks like on a skate.

Edited March 25, 2016 by ABodie

[Bbd94 26]

4 hours ago, ABodie said:

I know it may not be the fastest method, but I normally start small and work my way up with regards to thickness. I'll usually rely on my customer's feedback and I'll also go out and watch them skate to figure out if we need to add more height. As far as how tall you can make it, I've gone all the way up 1/4" for a shim for pronation and supination and recently just shy of 1/2" lift for a customer who had one leg shorter than the other. I'll admit I was a little skeptical whether or not I would be able to do 1/2" lift, but I used a few extra coppers to really anchor everything down and haven't had any problems. 

 

If they don't have anything thicker than the 1/16" plastic, they can always stack them on top of one another. That being said, Graf makes 1/4" plastic sheets specifically for shimming.

 

If you'd like, I can attach pictures of the thick shims and what it looks like on a skate.

 

That would be perfect, thanks!

 

They have 1/16" but assuming if that's stacked that's 1/8"? And then 1/4"?    Math ?

 

How have you you found the difference between moving the blade and shimming? VH recommends realigning the blade but says shimming is an OK method too. I figure I'll try the shins first and if worst comes to worse move the holder by a couple mm.

Edited March 26, 2016 by Bbd94

[ABodie 1]

That's a tough one to answer. I have had a lot of success with both shimming and moving the blade. With figure skates, I'm more likely to shift the blade for a pronation than shim because the plates of figure blades have elongated slot holes where I can adjust the blade once it is mounted if necessary. Given that hockey holders don't have slot holes, you have to be dead on with the alignment (because of drilling the holes into the outsole and not being able to adjust the blade once it's riveted/coppered). 

 

Because of that, I say it is easier to shim hockey skates rather than move the blades. More than anything for the simple reason that if you don't like the shims (for whatever reason), it is really easy to get them out. Whereas, if you mount the holders/runners towards the inside and you hate it, it is a MUCH more extensive process to move them.

 

As for the picture of the 1/2 shim, this is my first time trying to post one, so....how exactly do I do that? haha

[Bbd94 26]

2 hours ago, ABodie said:

That's a tough one to answer. I have had a lot of success with both shimming and moving the blade. With figure skates, I'm more likely to shift the blade for a pronation than shim because the plates of figure blades have elongated slot holes where I can adjust the blade once it is mounted if necessary. Given that hockey holders don't have slot holes, you have to be dead on with the alignment (because of drilling the holes into the outsole and not being able to adjust the blade once it's riveted/coppered). 

 

Because of that, I say it is easier to shim hockey skates rather than move the blades. More than anything for the simple reason that if you don't like the shims (for whatever reason), it is really easy to get them out. Whereas, if you mount the holders/runners towards the inside and you hate it, it is a MUCH more extensive process to move them.

 

As for the picture of the 1/2 shim, this is my first time trying to post one, so....how exactly do I do that? haha

 

Dont worry about it, it's a little confusing haha. Have to click the attachment icon (one that looks like a sideways paper clip) and then have the shim on photo bucket or flickr or whatever 

 

Nice to get your opinions on this though! I can see how that would be a pain in the ass to adjust the holder. I just did shims because i understand it more but looks like I made the right choice. The person that is helping me is good as well. 

 

I notice you're in Arlington. I'm about an hour or so away. Lifelong Caps fan (named my childhood dog Bondra). Hopefully we can win it this year.

Edited March 26, 2016 by Bbd94

[ABodie 1]

Yeah, and it gets to the point where you won't be able to adjust it because you'd be compromising the integrity of the outsole with how many times you're drilling into it. 

 

And yep, I'm actually the manager at their practice facility. Let's hope they can break through this year.

[smu 29]

Did I miss something, perhaps?

 

If  VH does your remote fitting properly you should have your center of gravity over your blades thus there is no need to have shims. This is why I am going with VH and I hope to get the remote fitting as best I can with the information I give them. It is all about being directly over your edges and you don't need any correction once there.

 

Normally you need shims if you have an over pronation problem or your skates came off the assembly line not quite right causing a pronation problem and not putting you over the center of gravity of that particular skate blade.

 

Alan

 

 

[romdj 26]

I've been for a bike fitting the other day and we've calculated that my leg length discrepancy is about 1.14 cm. (.45")

Does that mean that I should try to put a .45 shim in there? It all makes sense now of why I'm always having such an easier time crossing over to one side compared to the other!