permanently slipping smooth polished concrete

[Rogurt 0]

Hi all

I know this topic has been discussed but still I dont know how to solve my problem. I keep slipping in tight turns and when accellerating like crazy. Floor is polished shiny concrete (or is it floor screed?) of our local ice rink during summer time. I am 165lbs and use the labeda gripper xsoft like the one below.  I use them for the third season now (with almost no visible wear).

What is the wheel with the most grip that you know (like a wheel under 70A)? Are there tricks like treating wheels with some cleaner between shifts? Also I read about "harder wheels can be used depending on players ability". Does it mean, that if I learned to skate differrently I would possibly slip less?

I really need a LOT more grip :-(

 

Cheers,

Roger

[kmfdm86 112]

Don't play on polished concrete. Problem solved. Haha. Jk.

Sorry, I don't really have any tips or advice for getting better grip on a surface like that. I play on sport court. Have you thought about just going out and practicing holding your weight differently while you skate to get better grip?

[the_game 452]

Just curious did the wheels grip for you when you first got them?

It's been a while since I skated on polished concrete but I remember even though the wheels didn't wear like you used them outside, the friction would take off enough of a layer on the wheel that they would slip. 

I know you said you've had these for 3 seasons, might be time for new wheels. There isn't an ideal wheel for polished concrete but if the wheel gripped when you first got them and then began slipping you might consider a harder wheel to try and maximize how long they'll grip.

[BucksAway 16]

I play on smooth concrete and have found the grippers to be the best bang for buck, in saying that I still have some splitters which have treated me well and I still have a few wheels that are going strong with rotation etc done on a regular basis. These are 76a and 78a

I have serious issues with wheels going below 76a , they generally chunk and break after a single game.

You may just have to get some new wheels and trial as much as you can. Just a shame wheels are so damn expensive (especially in AUS)

 

[Rogurt 0]

@kmfdm86 yes I tried various changes in striding technique. Seems like wheel has way more grip when it is perpendicular to the floor. Only it´s quite hard to go into a turn with not leaning in...

@the_game I started playing on this polished (or varnished) concrete floor just recently. But on the linoleum sports court floor that I have been playing for years now grip seems to be similar (not exactly like in the beginning). Trying various wheels would be an interesting yet very expensive thing to do...

[Wicked3Aussie 68]

I had the same problem and solved it by accident when I got my 1XRs.

The red revision variants that came with the skates are quite soft but the grip was amazing.

I highly recommend giving them a go.

[mickz 107]

It can also depend on how often your facility sweeps their concrete floor.

[QuanSuDude 1]

You're too heavy for red Grippers. I'm 137lbs and I wear the next hardness up, white, and I recommend you do the same or even go for yellow, which is two hardness levels up.

I also play on polished concrete.

[mickz 107]

On 7/17/2017 at 12:39 PM, QuanSuDude said:

You're too heavy for red Grippers. I'm 137lbs and I wear the next hardness up, white, and I recommend you do the same or even go for yellow, which is two hardness levels up.

I also play on polished concrete.

Labeda recommends the X-Soft durometer for players up to 165lbs (OP's weight).  The soft/hardness of a wheel is personal preference just like the radius of hollow on an ice skate.  I don't feel going to a harder wheel will solve the OP's issue.  He is having grip issues with a soft wheel.  A harder wheel will have even less grip.

[Wicked3Aussie 68]

I recently started using Rink Rat dual identities on concrete and they work brilliantly.

High levels of grip while maintaining speed, blue/green ones are the pick. 

[Playmakersedge 58]

On 5/10/2017 at 2:48 AM, Rogurt said:

Hi all

I know this topic has been discussed but still I dont know how to solve my problem. I keep slipping in tight turns and when accellerating like crazy. Floor is polished shiny concrete (or is it floor screed?) of our local ice rink during summer time. I am 165lbs and use the labeda gripper xsoft like the one below.  I use them for the third season now (with almost no visible wear).

What is the wheel with the most grip that you know (like a wheel under 70A)? Are there tricks like treating wheels with some cleaner between shifts? Also I read about "harder wheels can be used depending on players ability". Does it mean, that if I learned to skate differrently I would possibly slip less?

I really need a LOT more grip :-(

 

Cheers,

Roger

This going to sound goofy ; but I race cars on ice for a couple years.  We used to do something called tractionizing . The tires were were driven on rollers full of needles that put little holes  in the tired treads.   The difference was amazing  .  A file cleaning brush may work on your wheels . Roll the wheel back and forth over the brush on the bench .       

[Playmakersedge 58]

On 5/10/2017 at 2:48 AM, Rogurt said:

Hi all

I know this topic has been discussed but still I dont know how to solve my problem. I keep slipping in tight turns and when accellerating like crazy. Floor is polished shiny concrete (or is it floor screed?) of our local ice rink during summer time. I am 165lbs and use the labeda gripper xsoft like the one below.  I use them for the third season now (with almost no visible wear).

What is the wheel with the most grip that you know (like a wheel under 70A)? Are there tricks like treating wheels with some cleaner between shifts? Also I read about "harder wheels can be used depending on players ability". Does it mean, that if I learned to skate differrently I would possibly slip less?

I really need a LOT more grip :-(

 

Cheers,

Roger

This going to sound goofy ; but I race cars on ice for a couple years.  We used to do something called tractionizing . The tires were were driven on rollers full of needles that put little holes  in the tired treads.   The difference was amazing  .  A file cleaning brush may work on your wheels . Roll the wheel back and forth over the brush on the bench .       

[Playmakersedge 58]

Another thing I would try is getting a good sheet rock knife  . Then set up a drill motor so you can spin the wheel, and while it's spinning use the knife to make radial cuts about a 1/64" deep . This should give you more bite 

[Stewie 721]

5 minutes ago, Playmakersedge said:

This going to sound goofy ; but I race cars on ice for a couple years.  We used to do something called tractionizing . The tires were were driven on rollers full of needles that put little holes  in the tired treads.   The difference was amazing  .  A file cleaning brush may work on your wheels . Roll the wheel back and forth over the brush on the bench .       

 

 

6 minutes ago, Playmakersedge said:

Another thing I would try is getting a good sheet rock knife  . Then set up a drill motor so you can spin the wheel, and while it's spinning use the knife to make radial cuts about a 1/64" deep . This should give you more bite 

I highly recommend you do not do any of these things. Sounds like great ways to ruin the urethane on your wheels, and cause chunking. If you get a proper urethane, the wheel will do all the gripping it needs on the surface. This isn't vulcanized rubber on Ice.

[Playmakersedge 58]

Think it would chunk with fine slices?  Yeah it's not vulcanized rubber.  I was thinking 3 year old wheels that aren't working it may be worth experimenting   ? 

[Wicked3Aussie 68]

I have some old wheels I’m going to try this with 👌🏻

[Playmakersedge 58]

10 hours ago, Wicked3Aussie said:

I have some old wheels I’m going to try this with 👌🏻

Cool, it's worth a little experimenting  .    I just had couple other thoughts on wheels:  1) Has anyone taken a measurement on the amount the wheels compress with a skaters weight on them .   2) I have a complete different principle or concept for dry land skating. I have thought this is the way to go for years   . And have been doing different versions in my mind since .   If someone out there that has the funding to develop it with me ,let's do it . 

I'm 50 so I witnessed rollerblades from adjustable metal holders with orange red wheels that had to be installed on old hockey boots to what they are today . And off shoot brands.   

For me I always had a problem with torsional force on the wheels to the point of making the bearing pocket elliptical, then causing the wheels to hit or bind on the wheel carrier.  ... And I could dig hard enough to get the work out I would have liked. I always thought the idea or concept wasn't completely developed.   I ended up using them for endurance.  And the track bike for conditioning muscles, explosive speed, etc . 

I also remember the first roller training skates had two wheels in a cast holder one on the heel one on the toe . What this company had right is the wheels were more like a ball shape so surface area to the surface was greater  .

I made my first inline skates from the predriled angle from the hardware store and metal roller skate wheels used part of a puck to shim the heel .  They worked great on asphalt and regular concrete.    

[salibandy 21]

I'm going to venture a guess and say that if the wheels are too old, they might have gotten too hard which a) prevents it from compressing too much and b) prevents it from wearing the top layer out and becoming more grippy. Again, I'm only speculating here based on prior experience.