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clarkiestooth

Home Sharpening Tips and Techniques

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You can use cutting oil on the blade, I have a dauber of it & used it early on to get a smoother finish. I don't use it anymore but that might work. If you have a really large nick in the blade might be better to just cross grind it but thats a better question for one of the experienced guys

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If you have a massive nick that you can't get out, adjust your holder to shear off that edge.  For instance, if your right skate has a nick on the inside edge, raise the holder and do passes - on a click adjustable holder, I'll count how many clicks.  Once nick is gone, bring it back down to where it needs to be and level it out.

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On 7/15/2017 at 4:53 PM, purepearl32 said:

... Is there a way to cool a blade down while sharpening, other than giving it 5-10 minutes? I was working on a skate that had a large nick so I was obviously making more passes and the steel became quite hot (no burn marks though)...

 

Steel is ok to get hot, just not red hot.

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On 7/15/2017 at 7:53 PM, purepearl32 said:

Great knowledge so far! Thanks for everyone!

Got another one for you guru's. Is there a way to cool a blade down while sharpening, other than giving it 5-10 minutes? I was working on a skate that had a large nick so I was obviously making more passes and the steel became quite hot (no burn marks though). I thought about using a slightly damp rag and then drying the steel off before touching the wheel again but I wasn't sure so I just gave it time to cool. Just curious. Thanks!

I've worked at a skate shop for around a year now and I have found that you just need to give it some time, The damp rag may help a bit but make sure its not too cold. Because as you know a sudden temp change will crack the blade. 

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8 hours ago, purepearl32 said:

How do the experienced skate sharpeners avoid grinding off the heel and especially the toe? 

Consistent pressure and tempo. Don't start from a pause or slow down when you finish your passes. Keep your contact point top-center on the grinding wheel at all times. Stay parallel to the wheel and don't round the blades. Don't touch either end of the blade until the final two or three passes. 

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On 8/26/2017 at 0:43 AM, TBR said:

Consistent pressure and tempo. Don't start from a pause or slow down when you finish your passes. Keep your contact point top-center on the grinding wheel at all times. Stay parallel to the wheel and don't round the blades. Don't touch either end of the blade until the final two or three passes. 

Also make sure that you are lightly applying pressure to the holder and make sure the blade itself isn't grinding the wheel. the sparks should be minimal and you should be lightly guiding the holder during each pass.

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I have two questions.

1- I know with black steel or polished steel you are supposed to use some leather to hone them.  Can someone post a picture or a link so I can see what it is that should be used?

2- I sharpen my own skates, and I do just fine with leaving the toes and heels alone.  I have been thinking about sending my blades out to be profiled.  I am a little hesitant because I am afraid of messing up the profile.  Do you guys have any tips aside from the usual.  I do exactly what TBR described consistent pressure, no pausing, staying parallel.  I know no matter what the profile over time will disappear just trying to prolong that as much as possible.

 

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On 8/29/2017 at 10:02 AM, strosedefence34 said:

I have two questions.

1- I know with black steel or polished steel you are supposed to use some leather to hone them.  Can someone post a picture or a link so I can see what it is that should be used?

2- I sharpen my own skates, and I do just fine with leaving the toes and heels alone.  I have been thinking about sending my blades out to be profiled.  I am a little hesitant because I am afraid of messing up the profile.  Do you guys have any tips aside from the usual.  I do exactly what TBR described consistent pressure, no pausing, staying parallel.  I know no matter what the profile over time will disappear just trying to prolong that as much as possible.

 

This is what we use as leather at the shop I work at. 

 

MxP2tfD.jpg?1

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On 8/29/2017 at 7:02 AM, strosedefence34 said:

I have two questions.

1- I know with black steel or polished steel you are supposed to use some leather to hone them.  Can someone post a picture or a link so I can see what it is that should be used?

2- I sharpen my own skates, and I do just fine with leaving the toes and heels alone.  I have been thinking about sending my blades out to be profiled.  I am a little hesitant because I am afraid of messing up the profile.  Do you guys have any tips aside from the usual.  I do exactly what TBR described consistent pressure, no pausing, staying parallel.  I know no matter what the profile over time will disappear just trying to prolong that as much as possible.

 

I run a Y-stick with almost no pressure to hone my steel after sharpening.  It's non-coated steel but I still don't like the marred look that a honing stone would leave behind.

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21 hours ago, kdwyer56 said:

This is what we use as leather at the shop I work at. 

 

MxP2tfD.jpg?1

Do you know where you guys got something like that? 

I found this on amazon for sharpening knives.  I wasn't sure if it would be okay on skates https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BS0OCM/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B008BS0OCM&pd_rd_r=Z4A997N66A7X8PQD91D0&pd_rd_w=HlPxv&pd_rd_wg=hewG9&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=ZGY4NSMY8Q28D0MXEVB0&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1cf9d009-399c-49e1-901a-7b8786e59436&pf_rd_i=desktop

 

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1 hour ago, strosedefence34 said:

That strop is perfectly fine.

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2 hours ago, strosedefence34 said:

We just have a bag of leather used to plug up figure skating mounting holes so I'm not sure.

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3 hours ago, JR Boucicaut said:

That strop is perfectly fine.

 

2 hours ago, kdwyer56 said:

We just have a bag of leather used to plug up figure skating mounting holes so I'm not sure.

Thanks, guys.  I am sick of sharpening black steel and mirrored steel and not having the proper tools.

Any tips on keeping a custom profile intact?  Aside from keeping the skate parallel?

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Re-profiling before every sharpening...which is not feasible, and I doubt anyone does. 

Realistically, if you want to preserve a custom profile, you would be wise to follow advice above. Frankly though, keeping the skate "parallel" is just good practice on any skate. Many moons ago, the advice I got when I first started sharpening was "don't sharpen the parts you don't skate on". Not exactly scientific advice, but it makes some sense.

 

Zach

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On 8/27/2017 at 4:09 PM, kdwyer56 said:

Also make sure that you are lightly applying pressure to the holder and make sure the blade itself isn't grinding the wheel. the sparks should be minimal and you should be lightly guiding the holder during each pass.

I could definitely be doing something wrong however, if I apply consistent light pressure with minimal sparks while grinding with the wheel, I get an inconsistent finish with the blade feeling like it is not even close to the hollow I set the wheel to. Example....I dress the wheel to 3/8ths and grind 10-15 passes using light pressure and it feels like a poor 1/2 or 7/16ths sharpening. If I use the exact same parameters and use more pressure (not pushing like hell on the wheel) with my fingers, I get a totally different feeling skate, in a very good way. I use the exact same procedure to deburr and finish the skate with the oil...

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On 9/2/2017 at 0:32 AM, purepearl32 said:

I could definitely be doing something wrong however, if I apply consistent light pressure with minimal sparks while grinding with the wheel, I get an inconsistent finish with the blade feeling like it is not even close to the hollow I set the wheel to. Example....I dress the wheel to 3/8ths and grind 10-15 passes using light pressure and it feels like a poor 1/2 or 7/16ths sharpening. If I use the exact same parameters and use more pressure (not pushing like hell on the wheel) with my fingers, I get a totally different feeling skate, in a very good way. I use the exact same procedure to deburr and finish the skate with the oil...

I would keep using the pressure that is giving you the better feeling skate. I kinda worded it to seem like you're barely touching the wheel with the skate but you just do not want to put way to much pressure. Play around with it and find the amount of pressure that makes a good finish.

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Another noob question. I'm using the Blademaster table machine with an SH2000 holder. I am constantly checking the blades for level while sharpening. Why am I sometimes showing level edges on both the front and back parts of the skate, but an uneven edge in the middle of the blade?

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On 10/28/2017 at 11:45 PM, purepearl32 said:

Another noob question. I'm using the Blademaster table machine with an SH2000 holder. I am constantly checking the blades for level while sharpening. Why am I sometimes showing level edges on both the front and back parts of the skate, but an uneven edge in the middle of the blade?

Is the blade straight or bent?

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I've narrowed it down to the final pass. I appear level on the front, middle, and back of the blade until I do the very light and slow final pass with the finishing oil. Once completed, I'm usually straight on both the front and back edges of the skate and 1-2 lines off in the middle....

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Anyone have expeirence with a wissota with a 3d holder?  I know there are new and improved machines, but i was able to pick this up at a good price.   A couple questions.  I have been tinkering for about a month.  Seems i need to adjust the holder for different skates.  Is this normal.  I dont get ripples, final past is shinny but almost looks like wood grain.  I have tried cutting oil and irvory soap.  Let the skate cool.  Attempted different speeds and pressure.  No mirror finish.  How much oil?  Suggestions.  I dont have the luxury if speaking with anyone with expeirence and the only place to get skates sharpened here is the rink that is hit and miss at best.  Thanks in advance.

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1 hour ago, jmiro said:

Anyone have expeirence with a wissota with a 3d holder?  I know there are new and improved machines, but i was able to pick this up at a good price.   A couple questions.  I have been tinkering for about a month.  Seems i need to adjust the holder for different skates.  Is this normal.  I dont get ripples, final past is shinny but almost looks like wood grain.  I have tried cutting oil and irvory soap.  Let the skate cool.  Attempted different speeds and pressure.  No mirror finish.  How much oil?  Suggestions.  I dont have the luxury if speaking with anyone with expeirence and the only place to get skates sharpened here is the rink that is hit and miss at best.  Thanks in advance.

Adjusting the holder for different skates is normal.  Depends on the thickness of the blade and how much variance there is in manufacturing.

How is the condition of your diamond?  A worn diamond won't put a clean dress on the wheel and will result in an undesirable finish.

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