purepearl32 6 Report post Posted July 22, 2017 Bump. Any thoughts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Axxion89 32 Report post Posted July 22, 2017 You can use cutting oil on the blade, I have a dauber of it & used it early on to get a smoother finish. I don't use it anymore but that might work. If you have a really large nick in the blade might be better to just cross grind it but thats a better question for one of the experienced guys Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JR Boucicaut 3786 Report post Posted July 22, 2017 If you have a massive nick that you can't get out, adjust your holder to shear off that edge. For instance, if your right skate has a nick on the inside edge, raise the holder and do passes - on a click adjustable holder, I'll count how many clicks. Once nick is gone, bring it back down to where it needs to be and level it out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kgbeast 195 Report post Posted July 22, 2017 On 7/15/2017 at 4:53 PM, purepearl32 said: ... Is there a way to cool a blade down while sharpening, other than giving it 5-10 minutes? I was working on a skate that had a large nick so I was obviously making more passes and the steel became quite hot (no burn marks though)... Steel is ok to get hot, just not red hot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kdwyer56 6 Report post Posted July 25, 2017 On 7/15/2017 at 7:53 PM, purepearl32 said: Great knowledge so far! Thanks for everyone! Got another one for you guru's. Is there a way to cool a blade down while sharpening, other than giving it 5-10 minutes? I was working on a skate that had a large nick so I was obviously making more passes and the steel became quite hot (no burn marks though). I thought about using a slightly damp rag and then drying the steel off before touching the wheel again but I wasn't sure so I just gave it time to cool. Just curious. Thanks! I've worked at a skate shop for around a year now and I have found that you just need to give it some time, The damp rag may help a bit but make sure its not too cold. Because as you know a sudden temp change will crack the blade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purepearl32 6 Report post Posted August 25, 2017 How do the experienced skate sharpeners avoid grinding off the heel and especially the toe? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TBR 11 Report post Posted August 26, 2017 8 hours ago, purepearl32 said: How do the experienced skate sharpeners avoid grinding off the heel and especially the toe? Consistent pressure and tempo. Don't start from a pause or slow down when you finish your passes. Keep your contact point top-center on the grinding wheel at all times. Stay parallel to the wheel and don't round the blades. Don't touch either end of the blade until the final two or three passes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kdwyer56 6 Report post Posted August 27, 2017 On 8/26/2017 at 0:43 AM, TBR said: Consistent pressure and tempo. Don't start from a pause or slow down when you finish your passes. Keep your contact point top-center on the grinding wheel at all times. Stay parallel to the wheel and don't round the blades. Don't touch either end of the blade until the final two or three passes. Also make sure that you are lightly applying pressure to the holder and make sure the blade itself isn't grinding the wheel. the sparks should be minimal and you should be lightly guiding the holder during each pass. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
strosedefence34 175 Report post Posted August 29, 2017 I have two questions. 1- I know with black steel or polished steel you are supposed to use some leather to hone them. Can someone post a picture or a link so I can see what it is that should be used? 2- I sharpen my own skates, and I do just fine with leaving the toes and heels alone. I have been thinking about sending my blades out to be profiled. I am a little hesitant because I am afraid of messing up the profile. Do you guys have any tips aside from the usual. I do exactly what TBR described consistent pressure, no pausing, staying parallel. I know no matter what the profile over time will disappear just trying to prolong that as much as possible. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kdwyer56 6 Report post Posted August 30, 2017 On 8/29/2017 at 10:02 AM, strosedefence34 said: I have two questions. 1- I know with black steel or polished steel you are supposed to use some leather to hone them. Can someone post a picture or a link so I can see what it is that should be used? 2- I sharpen my own skates, and I do just fine with leaving the toes and heels alone. I have been thinking about sending my blades out to be profiled. I am a little hesitant because I am afraid of messing up the profile. Do you guys have any tips aside from the usual. I do exactly what TBR described consistent pressure, no pausing, staying parallel. I know no matter what the profile over time will disappear just trying to prolong that as much as possible. This is what we use as leather at the shop I work at. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mickz 107 Report post Posted August 31, 2017 On 8/29/2017 at 7:02 AM, strosedefence34 said: I have two questions. 1- I know with black steel or polished steel you are supposed to use some leather to hone them. Can someone post a picture or a link so I can see what it is that should be used? 2- I sharpen my own skates, and I do just fine with leaving the toes and heels alone. I have been thinking about sending my blades out to be profiled. I am a little hesitant because I am afraid of messing up the profile. Do you guys have any tips aside from the usual. I do exactly what TBR described consistent pressure, no pausing, staying parallel. I know no matter what the profile over time will disappear just trying to prolong that as much as possible. I run a Y-stick with almost no pressure to hone my steel after sharpening. It's non-coated steel but I still don't like the marred look that a honing stone would leave behind. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
strosedefence34 175 Report post Posted August 31, 2017 21 hours ago, kdwyer56 said: This is what we use as leather at the shop I work at. Do you know where you guys got something like that? I found this on amazon for sharpening knives. I wasn't sure if it would be okay on skates https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BS0OCM/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B008BS0OCM&pd_rd_r=Z4A997N66A7X8PQD91D0&pd_rd_w=HlPxv&pd_rd_wg=hewG9&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=ZGY4NSMY8Q28D0MXEVB0&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1cf9d009-399c-49e1-901a-7b8786e59436&pf_rd_i=desktop Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JR Boucicaut 3786 Report post Posted August 31, 2017 1 hour ago, strosedefence34 said: Do you know where you guys got something like that? I found this on amazon for sharpening knives. I wasn't sure if it would be okay on skates https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BS0OCM/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B008BS0OCM&pd_rd_r=Z4A997N66A7X8PQD91D0&pd_rd_w=HlPxv&pd_rd_wg=hewG9&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=ZGY4NSMY8Q28D0MXEVB0&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1cf9d009-399c-49e1-901a-7b8786e59436&pf_rd_i=desktop That strop is perfectly fine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kdwyer56 6 Report post Posted August 31, 2017 2 hours ago, strosedefence34 said: Do you know where you guys got something like that? I found this on amazon for sharpening knives. I wasn't sure if it would be okay on skates https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BS0OCM/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B008BS0OCM&pd_rd_r=Z4A997N66A7X8PQD91D0&pd_rd_w=HlPxv&pd_rd_wg=hewG9&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=ZGY4NSMY8Q28D0MXEVB0&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1cf9d009-399c-49e1-901a-7b8786e59436&pf_rd_i=desktop We just have a bag of leather used to plug up figure skating mounting holes so I'm not sure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
strosedefence34 175 Report post Posted August 31, 2017 3 hours ago, JR Boucicaut said: That strop is perfectly fine. 2 hours ago, kdwyer56 said: We just have a bag of leather used to plug up figure skating mounting holes so I'm not sure. Thanks, guys. I am sick of sharpening black steel and mirrored steel and not having the proper tools. Any tips on keeping a custom profile intact? Aside from keeping the skate parallel? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DEATHTRON 19 Report post Posted August 31, 2017 Re-profiling before every sharpening...which is not feasible, and I doubt anyone does. Realistically, if you want to preserve a custom profile, you would be wise to follow advice above. Frankly though, keeping the skate "parallel" is just good practice on any skate. Many moons ago, the advice I got when I first started sharpening was "don't sharpen the parts you don't skate on". Not exactly scientific advice, but it makes some sense. Zach Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purepearl32 6 Report post Posted September 2, 2017 On 8/27/2017 at 4:09 PM, kdwyer56 said: Also make sure that you are lightly applying pressure to the holder and make sure the blade itself isn't grinding the wheel. the sparks should be minimal and you should be lightly guiding the holder during each pass. I could definitely be doing something wrong however, if I apply consistent light pressure with minimal sparks while grinding with the wheel, I get an inconsistent finish with the blade feeling like it is not even close to the hollow I set the wheel to. Example....I dress the wheel to 3/8ths and grind 10-15 passes using light pressure and it feels like a poor 1/2 or 7/16ths sharpening. If I use the exact same parameters and use more pressure (not pushing like hell on the wheel) with my fingers, I get a totally different feeling skate, in a very good way. I use the exact same procedure to deburr and finish the skate with the oil... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kdwyer56 6 Report post Posted September 4, 2017 On 9/2/2017 at 0:32 AM, purepearl32 said: I could definitely be doing something wrong however, if I apply consistent light pressure with minimal sparks while grinding with the wheel, I get an inconsistent finish with the blade feeling like it is not even close to the hollow I set the wheel to. Example....I dress the wheel to 3/8ths and grind 10-15 passes using light pressure and it feels like a poor 1/2 or 7/16ths sharpening. If I use the exact same parameters and use more pressure (not pushing like hell on the wheel) with my fingers, I get a totally different feeling skate, in a very good way. I use the exact same procedure to deburr and finish the skate with the oil... I would keep using the pressure that is giving you the better feeling skate. I kinda worded it to seem like you're barely touching the wheel with the skate but you just do not want to put way to much pressure. Play around with it and find the amount of pressure that makes a good finish. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purepearl32 6 Report post Posted October 29, 2017 Another noob question. I'm using the Blademaster table machine with an SH2000 holder. I am constantly checking the blades for level while sharpening. Why am I sometimes showing level edges on both the front and back parts of the skate, but an uneven edge in the middle of the blade? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mojo122 532 Report post Posted October 29, 2017 How many passes are you making...might not be making enough? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mickz 107 Report post Posted November 1, 2017 On 10/28/2017 at 11:45 PM, purepearl32 said: Another noob question. I'm using the Blademaster table machine with an SH2000 holder. I am constantly checking the blades for level while sharpening. Why am I sometimes showing level edges on both the front and back parts of the skate, but an uneven edge in the middle of the blade? Is the blade straight or bent? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purepearl32 6 Report post Posted November 1, 2017 About 15 passes per skate. The blades are straight. Maybe a pressure issue? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
purepearl32 6 Report post Posted November 9, 2017 I've narrowed it down to the final pass. I appear level on the front, middle, and back of the blade until I do the very light and slow final pass with the finishing oil. Once completed, I'm usually straight on both the front and back edges of the skate and 1-2 lines off in the middle.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmiro 55 Report post Posted November 12, 2017 Anyone have expeirence with a wissota with a 3d holder? I know there are new and improved machines, but i was able to pick this up at a good price. A couple questions. I have been tinkering for about a month. Seems i need to adjust the holder for different skates. Is this normal. I dont get ripples, final past is shinny but almost looks like wood grain. I have tried cutting oil and irvory soap. Let the skate cool. Attempted different speeds and pressure. No mirror finish. How much oil? Suggestions. I dont have the luxury if speaking with anyone with expeirence and the only place to get skates sharpened here is the rink that is hit and miss at best. Thanks in advance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mickz 107 Report post Posted November 12, 2017 1 hour ago, jmiro said: Anyone have expeirence with a wissota with a 3d holder? I know there are new and improved machines, but i was able to pick this up at a good price. A couple questions. I have been tinkering for about a month. Seems i need to adjust the holder for different skates. Is this normal. I dont get ripples, final past is shinny but almost looks like wood grain. I have tried cutting oil and irvory soap. Let the skate cool. Attempted different speeds and pressure. No mirror finish. How much oil? Suggestions. I dont have the luxury if speaking with anyone with expeirence and the only place to get skates sharpened here is the rink that is hit and miss at best. Thanks in advance. Adjusting the holder for different skates is normal. Depends on the thickness of the blade and how much variance there is in manufacturing. How is the condition of your diamond? A worn diamond won't put a clean dress on the wheel and will result in an undesirable finish. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites