Bladetech Initial Thoughts

[slapshot54 0]

@Jeff Azzolin Bladetech are you guys going to be able to make blades for the new Tuuk holders?

Edited February 24, 2023 by slapshot54

[Jeff Azzolin Bladetech 14]

On 2/24/2023 at 12:55 PM, slapshot54 said:

@Jeff Azzolin Bladetech are you guys going to be able to make blades for the new Tuuk holders?

yes 😄

[Jeff Azzolin Bladetech 14]

On 2/15/2023 at 11:04 AM, JHill said:

Great detail on the elasticity responses!  How about the DLC?  Does that have similar elastic points, or can that tend to crack and spiderweb over time at the flex points?

The DLC is about a micron thick, it will not change the way the blade works, except for that it will hold the edges longer and you wont need to sharpen as much. We havent experienced a single issue of the DLC cracking on the steel, hope it stays that way 😄

[Giltis 116]

Have any goalies tried this? I am more and more curious about them.

[pgeorgan 77]

I have the non-polished standard steel. Literally used twice and then taken out of my steel rotation because I decided to go back to my old profile, but wasn't ready to grind over the one it came with, as I like to go back and forth for experimental purposes sometimes. 

Anyway, I went to fish them out today and found quite a bit of rust... The blade was even pitted at one point .

Has anyone else experienced this? All the other sets of steel right next to this pair were fine... To be sure, my basement is very cool and dry.

Edited May 26, 2023 by pgeorgan

[A2rhino 62]

Hey all,

I know that it was brought up at the beginning of this thread about the design of this steel and the way it preforms possibly damaging or eventually wearing out holders. I was wanting to follow up and see if any of you have had any long time experience with these and if there has been any issues regarding this.

 

Thanks in advance 

[krisdrum 233]

My kid has been using them the last 2 years +, swapping skates about every season (outgrowing gear).  No issues with any wear that I've noticed to the holders.  I must have missed it, but what kind of damage were folks speculating could happen?

[jkent27 6]

2 hours ago, A2rhino said:

Hey all,

I know that it was brought up at the beginning of this thread about the design of this steel and the way it preforms possibly damaging or eventually wearing out holders. I was wanting to follow up and see if any of you have had any long time experience with these and if there has been any issues regarding this.

 

Thanks in advance 

Been swapping two sets of the dlc for a couple years now.  Never had any issues.  I sometimes swap in a pair of old black step steel that I had left over and they're as tight as ever.  

[A2rhino 62]

2 hours ago, krisdrum said:

My kid has been using them the last 2 years +, swapping skates about every season (outgrowing gear).  No issues with any wear that I've noticed to the holders.  I must have missed it, but what kind of damage were folks speculating could happen?

Was thinking anything that's causing friction would eventually wear the holder out and cause the steel to not stay as stable as new.  

[krisdrum 233]

9 minutes ago, A2rhino said:

Was thinking anything that's causing friction would eventually wear the holder out and cause the steel to not stay as stable as new.  

They were rock solid in CCM XS holders.  Been in True Shift Max holders the last 18 months or so and did experience some fore/aft and vertical play between blades and holders, but play wasn't there with supplied True steel, which makes no sense, so not sure it is an outcome of the blades.  Second set of True holders had zero issues, so I chalk it up to the holder, not the blade.    

Edited August 28 by krisdrum

[Jeff Azzolin Bladetech 14]

On 4/4/2023 at 10:53 AM, Giltis said:

Have any goalies tried this? I am more and more curious about them.

Do Stanley Cup Winners Adin Hill and Logan Thompson count? haha

We have plenty of goalies who use and love. 

Note, our goalie steel is quite a bit taller than OEM, so you can get a better angle of attack 🙂

[Jeff Azzolin Bladetech 14]

On 5/26/2023 at 1:50 PM, pgeorgan said:

I have the non-polished standard steel. Literally used twice and then taken out of my steel rotation because I decided to go back to my old profile, but wasn't ready to grind over the one it came with, as I like to go back and forth for experimental purposes sometimes. 

Anyway, I went to fish them out today and found quite a bit of rust... The blade was even pitted at one point .

Has anyone else experienced this? All the other sets of steel right next to this pair were fine... To be sure, my basement is very cool and dry.

Quite odd to hear actually - send us pictures and we can help you out. 

sales@bladetechhockey.ca

[Jeff Azzolin Bladetech 14]

3 hours ago, A2rhino said:

Was thinking anything that's causing friction would eventually wear the holder out and cause the steel to not stay as stable as new.  

just critiques and competitors trying to make issues out of thin air to scare people 😉 

The ones who try us, end up using for years, and then laugh that there is never any issue.

[pgeorgan 77]

1 minute ago, Jeff Azzolin Bladetech said:

Quite odd to hear actually - send us pictures and we can help you out. 

sales@bladetechhockey.ca

I thought so too, but it happened. I sent you an email. 

[Giltis 116]

On 8/28/2024 at 8:10 PM, Jeff Azzolin Bladetech said:

Do Stanley Cup Winners Adin Hill and Logan Thompson count? haha

We have plenty of goalies who use and love. 

Note, our goalie steel is quite a bit taller than OEM, so you can get a better angle of attack 🙂

I ended up getting it on my player skates and I quite like them.

Unfortunately I ran into an issue when I got them for the old holder SB4.0, the blade would not hold an edge (I still have the blades somewhere). I ended up swapping the holders and trying them one more time. 

[Jeff Azzolin Bladetech 14]

On 9/5/2024 at 2:08 PM, Giltis said:

I ended up getting it on my player skates and I quite like them.

Unfortunately I ran into an issue when I got them for the old holder SB4.0, the blade would not hold an edge (I still have the blades somewhere). I ended up swapping the holders and trying them one more time. 

If you are using one of those "rubber stones"... remember.. its RUBBER... it will NOT cut steel, and remove burrs, let alone DLC diamond coated surfaces. Use a CERAMIC stone and run it on a 10 degree angle so you do not ruin and scratch your nice and expensive DLC coating. Check out our website. See the FAQ video #7. Its the best 3 minutes of education that every sharpener in the world should see and understand.  Throw the rubber in the trash. haha. Happy skating!

[Sniper9 529]

7 hours ago, Jeff Azzolin Bladetech said:

If you are using one of those "rubber stones"... remember.. its RUBBER... it will NOT cut steel, and remove burrs, let alone DLC diamond coated surfaces. Use a CERAMIC stone and run it on a 10 degree angle so you do not ruin and scratch your nice and expensive DLC coating. Check out our website. See the FAQ video #7. Its the best 3 minutes of education that every sharpener in the world should see and understand.  Throw the rubber in the trash. haha. Happy skating!

Rubber hone works fine for me to deburr pulse ti and step dlc after it's been sharpened on my sparx.... Unless you're talking about actual nicks 

[jkent27 6]

17 hours ago, Jeff Azzolin Bladetech said:

If you are using one of those "rubber stones"... remember.. its RUBBER... it will NOT cut steel, and remove burrs, let alone DLC diamond coated surfaces. Use a CERAMIC stone and run it on a 10 degree angle so you do not ruin and scratch your nice and expensive DLC coating. Check out our website. See the FAQ video #7. Its the best 3 minutes of education that every sharpener in the world should see and understand.  Throw the rubber in the trash. haha. Happy skating!

This is good advice.  I tried the rubber stones without much luck.  It might seem like the rubber is working because there's not usually much of a burr on the dlc but I get a much cleaner edge just using a regular stone at a slight angle.  I've been sharpening on a Wissota for about 20 years.  In the end, if it feels right on the ice, then it's right. 🙂

[Jeff Azzolin Bladetech 14]

On 9/12/2024 at 10:16 PM, Sniper9 said:

Rubber hone works fine for me to deburr pulse ti and step dlc after it's been sharpened on my sparx.... Unless you're talking about actual nicks 

I can be a valuable tool, we just find ceramic is superior and helps 100% of the time. Just have to be careful with rubber that it actually does its job. And yea... wont remove nicks... no stone will... just have to do more grinding passes on the sharpener, or dont worry abuot the knicks, as long as the steel is sharp and deburred before and after the knick, and the knick is small, then you wont have issues skating. its more the long rolled edges that are like 1" long that cause a problem. A little 1/16" knick in 1 area wont impact ya too much as long as sharp before and after. sometimes its just too much grinding to remove the knick 100%

[Jeff Azzolin Bladetech 14]

On 9/13/2024 at 8:42 AM, jkent27 said:

This is good advice.  I tried the rubber stones without much luck.  It might seem like the rubber is working because there's not usually much of a burr on the dlc but I get a much cleaner edge just using a regular stone at a slight angle.  I've been sharpening on a Wissota for about 20 years.  In the end, if it feels right on the ice, then it's right. 🙂

exactly.... whatever works, always 10 ways to get it working... and everybody will have a slightly different way

[pgeorgan 77]

On 9/5/2024 at 2:08 PM, Giltis said:

I ended up getting it on my player skates and I quite like them.

Unfortunately I ran into an issue when I got them for the old holder SB4.0, the blade would not hold an edge (I still have the blades somewhere). I ended up swapping the holders and trying them one more time. 

I've always maintained that all things being equal, non-coated steel has more bite than coated. The few mills? of coating or whatever have different properties/geometries than the steel when sharpened. The need for coated steel is obviated with the proliferation of home sharpening. 

Just skip the coated option next time. It's a gimmick. 

Edited October 22 by pgeorgan