Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

[earth4x 0]

quick question... if you remove the blade, does the flex increase?

[DCott 0]

quick question... if you remove the blade, does the flex increase?

probably only if you increase the length with a long-hosel blade or end plug

[earth4x 0]

It's a tapered shaft right? so an AK-27 blade probably wouldn't fit if I'm correct?

also... is the kickpoint in the middle of the shaft... because mine sure seems like it is, but I see alot of websites that mention the kickpoint is really low (like a XXXX or RBK 7k). Because I've been looking at getting another stick with a mid kickpoint and the only one I know is the ONE90..

[DCott 0]

It's a tapered shaft right? so an AK-27 blade probably wouldn't fit if I'm correct?

correct, sir

also... is the kickpoint in the middle of the shaft... because mine sure seems like it is, but I see alot of websites that mention the kickpoint is really low (like a XXXX or RBK 7k). Because I've been looking at getting another stick with a mid kickpoint and the only one I know is the ONE90..

I thought taper in the shaft lowers the kickpoint, It doesn't give a real advantage, only preference. That is why most brands offer taper and non-taper shafts.

[Rustpot 1]

Kick point is lowered with a slimmer taper. Check the taper on your SL and see if it matches another stick. My guess, since the SL is performance and the ST is power (like the Vapor vs. Supreme) is that the SL is lower.

My cut SL, quite above the fuse point, but a flawless fit. Doing this will effectively raise the kickpoint, but the extension I added evened the flex back out, seems about the same as my 95 flex Montreal.

[Chadd 916]

It's a tapered shaft right? so an AK-27 blade probably wouldn't fit if I'm correct?

correct, sir

also... is the kickpoint in the middle of the shaft... because mine sure seems like it is, but I see alot of websites that mention the kickpoint is really low (like a XXXX or RBK 7k). Because I've been looking at getting another stick with a mid kickpoint and the only one I know is the ONE90..

I thought taper in the shaft lowers the kickpoint, It doesn't give a real advantage, only preference. That is why most brands offer taper and non-taper shafts.

Taper shafts do provide an advantage for wrist shots. They allow the stick to load more quickly, meaning you have to use less force than with a standard shaft.

[DCott 0]

Taper shafts do provide an advantage for wrist shots. They allow the stick to load more quickly, meaning you have to use less force than with a standard shaft.

only if that's what you're looking for.

[Chadd 916]

Taper shafts do provide an advantage for wrist shots. They allow the stick to load more quickly, meaning you have to use less force than with a standard shaft.

only if that's what you're looking for.

Yeah, why the hell would anyone want a stick that requires less effort on wrist shots without negatively impacting slapshots?

[DCott 0]

some guys prefer standard, that's all

[Chadd 916]

some guys prefer standard, that's all

And some guys prefer wood, that doesn't mean that the technology involved in composite or taper sticks doesn't offer a real advantage.

[DCott 0]

I meant to say that taper may or may not benefit your style of play/shot, and it really comes down to preference. yeah taper is great if you like wrist shots and high slappers.

[Chadd 916]

I meant to say that taper may or may not benefit your style of play/shot, and it really comes down to preference. yeah taper is great if you like wrist shots and high slappers.

The benefit is there for everyone. Even NHL defensemen have said that they like being able to get off a high velocity slap shot without having to lean into it. Height of the shot is all up to the user, not the stick.

I get it, you don't like tapered sticks. That doesn't mean the benefit isn't there.

[earth4x 0]

What's the taper on the SL? because I have a low-end stick that's 570 taper I believe and I can take slappers with it pretty easy... but with 420 tapered sticks like the vapor XXXX I can't seem to take a slapshot.. the shot is weak. Thing is, my slapshot is fine with the SL.. which is weird

[hrbekroenick 0]

I just cut a synergy a few days ago and I fit my L-2 blade in perfectly. I cut it right on the "d" in "Pending". It was a great cut too, right at the fuse point I think because there's no blade or junk left in the shaft, and the end of the blade tenon (of the original synergy) is right at the end of where I cut it. If you don't get quite what I mean I could take some pics.

I just cut an original synergy according to your instructions. I put a Z2 blade in it. Top to bottom it was perfect, side to side a little sloppy. I put a couple of layers on it and it feels pretty good.

I am going to try this a lot more now, since I have a buddy who can get me a few broken 1 piecers.

Thanks for the info.

[fastmiele 59]

When you guys cut it right where you see the fuse line, is it possible to actually fit a sr.tapered balde in it? The opening seems really small.....If you can fit one in when you cut past the tennon on the OPS, how can you if you chisel the thing out?

Okay, I finally decided to give a try at this "cutting OPS" and see if I could get a Synthesis shaft out a broken Synergy. I got 2 broken Synergy SL's (1 pro stock - blue no grip and 1 retail red with grip). I cut them off at the fuse point and used a dremel to remove as much of the tenon as possible. I also used a chisel to file it down inside. After finishing dremeling them I looked at the ends and there was no way a senior tapered blade was going to fit in. It simply looked too narrow/tight so that's when I came up a brillant idea, I took a ruler and matched it up with my Easton T-flex and Synthesis shafts. I measured along the the inside edges to find the length and width. Although each is slightly different, the approximate length and width is 14 mm X 26 mm (the same dimenision as a tapered tenon). So I take a look at my dremeled and filed down Synergy and it measures out at 12 mm which is approximately 2 mm too narrow/tight so either I must continue to file down or cut further up. It is not really possible to continue filing/dremel the shaft because the wall will be razor thin. I start making small cuts up the shaft and measuring the width inside. I kept on cutting until there was no more tenon inside, at that point the area of the shaft was able to fit a 14 mm X 26 mm tenon.

So the final result of my test is that the shafts and blades used to make a Synergy OPS is NOT the same as a Synthesis shaft and Synthesis blade.

The best advice I can give people is to keep cutting until you get a length and width dimension of 14 mm X 26 mm (varies from brand to brand and also no two shaft and blade will have exact same measurements). Never mind about looking and copying other people at where they cut.

http://img182.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cuttingops1ti0.jpg (The Line Up)

http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cuttingops2ff6.jpg

http://img221.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...nthesis2po7.jpg (length of Synthesis shaft - 26 mm)

http://img221.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...ynthesissc4.jpg (width of Synthesis shaft - 14 mm)

http://img182.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...ynergyslzb6.jpg (Synergy SL - width at the fuse point - 12 mm - way too narrow/tight)

http://img182.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...nergysl2ue5.jpg

http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...nergysl3bx4.jpg (after 1 cut - 13 mm - still too narrow/tight for tapered blade - need 14 mm)

http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...nergysl4bm3.jpg (Final Line Up - 14 mm X 26 mm)

[fastmiele 59]

I pulled the blade out of my XX. Lots of heat, relatively no chiseling. Only tapered blade I can get in there are R2 blades. Ive tried Syn. and L2 and they are way to big. R2s go in with only a little bit of force. Best part is I didnt have to put an endplug in. Bad part is that the feel of the stick SUCKS. I cant get used to it. I think I just dont like Lville blades. Just not my thing.

I also found that Mission and Easton tapered blades had wider/thicker tenons compared to TPS tensons. Maybe 1 mm thicker.

[fatwabbit 93]

I would think that it would be a matter or "cut and try", rather than have a specific area to cut according to the graphics. Although the sticks would have some form of quality check, the graphics could be painted on slightly differently between shafts (let alone different models).

Thanks for the info fastmiele... will keep this in mind when i need to do it to my sticks. Having said that, anyone ever try doing a cut job on a Mission Pulse?

[hrbekroenick 0]

Fastmiele, thanks for the pictures. That is what I was looking for when I hopped on the unicorn, rode by the Loch Ness Monster and found the other mythical thing (search button).

I will post pics when I can as well. I have a source for broken OPS sticks now so I'll try to actually contribute something for a change.

This is very crude, but the shaft was free.

[hrbekroenick 0]

When you guys cut it right where you see the fuse line, is it possible to actually fit a sr.tapered balde in it? The opening seems really small.....If you can fit one in when you cut past the tennon on the OPS, how can you if you chisel the thing out?

Okay, I finally decided to give a try at this "cutting OPS" and see if I could get a Synthesis shaft out a broken Synergy. I got 2 broken Synergy SL's (1 pro stock - blue no grip and 1 retail red with grip). I cut them off at the fuse point and used a dremel to remove as much of the tenon as possible. I also used a chisel to file it down inside. After finishing dremeling them I looked at the ends and there was no way a senior tapered blade was going to fit in. It simply looked too narrow/tight so that's when I came up a brillant idea, I took a ruler and matched it up with my Easton T-flex and Synthesis shafts. I measured along the the inside edges to find the length and width. Although each is slightly different, the approximate length and width is 14 mm X 26 mm (the same dimenision as a tapered tenon). So I take a look at my dremeled and filed down Synergy and it measures out at 12 mm which is approximately 2 mm too narrow/tight so either I must continue to file down or cut further up. It is not really possible to continue filing/dremel the shaft because the wall will be razor thin. I start making small cuts up the shaft and measuring the width inside. I kept on cutting until there was no more tenon inside, at that point the area of the shaft was able to fit a 14 mm X 26 mm tenon.

So the final result of my test is that the shafts and blades used to make a Synergy OPS is NOT the same as a Synthesis shaft and Synthesis blade.

The best advice I can give people is to keep cutting until you get a length and width dimension of 14 mm X 26 mm (varies from brand to brand and also no two shaft and blade will have exact same measurements). Never mind about looking and copying other people at where they cut.

http://img182.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cuttingops1ti0.jpg (The Line Up)

http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cuttingops2ff6.jpg

http://img221.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...nthesis2po7.jpg (length of Synthesis shaft - 26 mm)

http://img221.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...ynthesissc4.jpg (width of Synthesis shaft - 14 mm)

http://img182.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...ynergyslzb6.jpg (Synergy SL - width at the fuse point - 12 mm - way too narrow/tight)

http://img182.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...nergysl2ue5.jpg

http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...nergysl3bx4.jpg (after 1 cut - 13 mm - still too narrow/tight for tapered blade - need 14 mm)

http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...nergysl4bm3.jpg (Final Line Up - 14 mm X 26 mm)

I've thought more about what you have here. Would it be possible to make this really easy algebra?

Ideal inside diameter is 14 x 26mm.

How about something like this (assuming consistent shaft wall thickness)

Inside diameter + 2x Wall thickness = Outside Diameter

Take out plug and micrometer to get wall thickness. Add 2x that measurement to the 14 x 26 mm to get ideal OD. Measure with the micrometer along the outside of the shaft to the target number and cut!

I'm trying to think of the quickest and easiest way without cutting off too much.

This is just an idea. I'm a newbie here as far as posting, so I'm jut trying to contribute.

[Jarick 5]

Okay, maybe I'm overthinking this...

Does the tenon itself move around inside the shaft?

If you've got a tapered shaft, and it fits around the tenon at the end of the shaft, there would be space around the end of the tenon inside the shaft, right?

And has anyone noticed shorter tenon blades seem to increase flex compared to longer tenon? My Dolomite seems to have more flex with Synergy than with Christian blades (which are half an inch longer in the tenon).

[hrbekroenick 0]

Jarick, do you play AHA? I think I have seen you on the Wild boards too.

[AWE46M3 0]

Does cutting these OPS from the bottom compromise the integrity of the shaft at all? Seems like it might be more prone to splitting at the corners. I have a bunch of broken OPS thanks to my brother but taking the time to do this may not be justified if it will easily break.

[fastmiele 59]

Does cutting these OPS from the bottom compromise the integrity of the shaft at all? Seems like it might be more prone to splitting at the corners. I have a bunch of broken OPS thanks to my brother but taking the time to do this may not be justified if it will easily break.

based on my cuttings, if you cut enough off then I don't see any problem, but if you cut off low and start dremeling then you may have thinner than normal wall thickness (which may be prone to splitting).

personally, if you get some experience cutting the shafts its not that much trouble. I have to say it was a bit of headache with cutting and measuring the first couple of shafts but now it seems pretty straightforward.

Start off with your worst/least valauble broken OPS

[fastmiele 59]

When you guys cut it right where you see the fuse line, is it possible to actually fit a sr.tapered balde in it? The opening seems really small.....If you can fit one in when you cut past the tennon on the OPS, how can you if you chisel the thing out?

http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=c...nergysl4bm3.jpg (Final Line Up - 14 mm X 26 mm)

I've thought more about what you have here. Would it be possible to make this really easy algebra?

Ideal inside diameter is 14 x 26mm.

How about something like this (assuming consistent shaft wall thickness)

Inside diameter + 2x Wall thickness = Outside Diameter

Take out plug and micrometer to get wall thickness. Add 2x that measurement to the 14 x 26 mm to get ideal OD. Measure with the micrometer along the outside of the shaft to the target number and cut!

I'm trying to think of the quickest and easiest way without cutting off too much.

This is just an idea. I'm a newbie here as far as posting, so I'm jut trying to contribute.

what a great idea, I was thinking something along the same line, but I didn't have a micrometer.

It should work, try it on some broken OPS that you don't care too for and see what happens. I am interested in seeing how close you are.

[hrbekroenick 0]

what a great idea, I was thinking something along the same line, but I didn't have a micrometer.

It should work, try it on some broken OPS that you don't care too for and see what happens. I am interested in seeing how close you are.

I have a Bauer xxv I can experiment with. I'll post results when I can.