Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

[Tyler Roy 86]

DELETE

I have an Intermediate TotalONE that has a broken blade, I would like to make it a 2 piece set up, but had some questions. First off, I've read through this thread and it sounds like with the intermediate shaft, I will be able to put a Tapered Senior blade in it, is this correct? Or will I need a standard? Secondly, I wanted to see if someone could give me a quick rundown of the process to cutting the stick and pulling the blade out, I have never done this before and I'd rather not mess up to the point I can't fix it. Thank you for any help.

I have a pretty reliable system for those difficult fused sticks. First i find where the shaft and blade meet, and cut.

Then pilot out two holes in the tenon, these are 1/2", but anything 1/2 to 5/8 would work

Then, after a good amount of heat, but not enough to burn the shaft paint, I can get a good purchase between the shaft and blade with a needlenose pliers. Some twisting is usually enough to break the resin bond and remove the blade.

[Buzz_LightBeer 969]

Bauer are not fused like that, my method won't work on a TOne

[Fonetiks007 1]

Go back one page and see what I have done. TotalONES are super easy. Just look at my pics and read what I have done.

See below...

Go back one page and see what I have done. TotalONES are super easy. Just look at my pics and read what I have done.

'MilleniumFalcon', on 29 Sept 2011 - 09:19, said:

'MilleniumFalcon', on 29 Sept 2011 - 09:11 AM, said:

TOTALONE

Easiest conversion ever. I was lucky to made the first cut it at the right place! Just sawed 38mm below "E" in TOTAL ONE. There was a hole 13*29mm. I applied a piece of tape to make the tapered tenon fit tighter.

Now I have the perfect mid kick tapered shaft of 77 flex. (ok, not 77 because I had to cut 2" from top to adjust it) let's say 80 flex )))

http://s48.radikal.r...109/74/3ecf0...

http://s006.radikal....1109/98/edb2...

http://s004.radikal....1109/ce/140e...

I tried this exactly 38mm from the E & it didn't work. The shaft seemed to have another section in it which prevents you from fitting even a tapered blade. Going to have to try & cut a little higher I think :(

DiD it work? i cut mine exactly as stated above and the tenon on my tapperd blade will only fit about an inch or so in the shaft.

MilleniumFalcon, on 19 Sept 2012 - 06:10 AM, said:

total ones are really easy. just cut at right place to let tapered blade in 13x26mm

T1s are great for cutting because they are mid-kick and the shaft doesn't lose it's features

http://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/5646/3997...

i can only fit my tapered blade about an inch into my TotalONE shaft

Heat up the shaft and it will expand so you can fit the tapered blade in

Sorry I'm posting from iPhone. Lame.

[louierev07 31]

OK so need some help with cutting some shafts i just picked up.

I originally bought these to just use for street hockey - since i was planning on just flipping and sticking a standard ABS blade in the other side. This would mess with the kick point, so I would rather not do that if i could.

If I can do this pretty easily and correctly, then I’ll probably use these for league play as well.

I normally cut my sticks down about two inches depending on how long the stick was in the first place. Heres a new bauer nexus 400 next to a stick i already cut to the correct length:

http://i.imgur.com/JM3ebdo.jpg

(the line at 96 is two inches from top)

The first shaft im trying to cut is a nexus 1000, that appears to be cut pretty high above the fuse point (im not totally sure i know what a fuse point is...) Any remnants of the last blade is gone, and the opening for a new blade isn’t quite as big as a standard opening (I compared it to the other end of another stick), but it looks like its almost there is i cut a bit more. You can also see without the extension, this shaft would actually be pretty short, but thats ok since ill just cut the butt to where i need it. Pics:

http://i.imgur.com/sYcwt21.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2Bsgazm.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/vFG10AF.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/RqPNN6y.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/1u1ZVmu.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/jFcRb9u.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/AYyDJFk.jpg

Im pretty sure im past the point of being able to put a tapered blade on, so how much more should i have to cut to fit a standard blade. And how does cutting the shaft, and then adding an extension affect the flex? If cutting makes it more stiff, does the extension add flex, or does it have no effect?

Next I have a Easton EQ50. This looks like it was cut more towards the blade. Should i try to pull the rest of the blade out and to try cut so a tapered blade will fit, or should i cut a bunch off and just make it so a standard will fit? Pictures:

http://i.imgur.com/t04ElnX.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/VKZZZ23.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/SGgt1Jx.jpg

Lastly, I have an Easton SE16, that also looks like it might take a tapered blade.

http://i.imgur.com/7diNoej.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/JlqAIfK.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/UEAXlqS.jpg

Lemme know what you think i should do with these. Like i said id rather not flip if i dont have to, and would like either tapered or standard on a few on them based on whats better for what stick.

EDIT: Also, does anyone know where the kick point is on the eastons? It would make the decision to flip on one or both easier is the kick point were in the middle anyway.

[MilleniumFalcon 5]

Is it possible to get a one95 to accept a standard blade without flipping it or will I have to cut too much off

you'll have to cut too much off and compensate that with extension plug. flex point will dislocate...

use tapered blade instead

louierev07

EQ50 as SE16 are pretty much the same

just search the topic, I've posted pics of EQ50 and compare it with your shaft

Nexus 1000 has no fuse point, it is similar to totalone. You cut too much for a tapered blade. Just measure the hole. If you want to use a standard blade the hole dimensions should be 16x26 mm

[louierev07 31]

louierev07

EQ50 as SE16 are pretty much the same

just search the topic, I've posted pics of EQ50 and compare it with your shaft

Nexus 1000 has no fuse point, it is similar to totalone. You cut too much for a tapered blade. Just measure the hole. If you want to use a standard blade the hole dimensions should be 16x26 mm

OK so far I was able to:

- saw off about 2-3 inches off of the nexus 1000, and it fit a standard blade perfectly. (i did have to use some tape to make it really tight so it didnt move at all on both sticks) I picked up a warrior composite blade for really cheap, and im now using this as a backup stick.

- Flipped the SE16, and stuck a frontier blade in it (need some tape to make it tight)

I havent touched the EQ50 because from looking at previous pictures - it looks like I can definitley get it so i can put in a tapered blade.

Heres where my EQ50 that was cut by someone else:

Notice I think they may have cut below the fuse point when comparing it to yours:

So should i just go by where you cut? I have a miter saw, so i can saw little by little if i need to, i just dont know how to tell where I should stop cutting, and then try to remove the remaining part of the blade.

Thanks for the help!

[MilleniumFalcon 5]

Look, you can easily find a fuse point, just scrape off the paint.

At my pic: I cut 1cm above the fuse line because it's easier to chisel the tenon out if you cut a bit higher...they use epoxy glue that doesn't melt

Do the same. then heat the shaft and take the remaining part of the blade out somehow, good luck! and post the pics

[flyguy1 1]

Where would I cut a pro stock TO NXG G3? The same place as a retail NXG? Right below the E of total one on bottom? Will this fit standard or tapered blade? I want to keep it as long as possible. I'm new at this so not sure where the fuse point is exactly and what the tenon looks like. There is a lot of fiber freying where the blade broke above the heel.

[louierev07 31]

Look, you can easily find a fuse point, just scrape off the paint.

At my pic: I cut 1cm above the fuse line because it's easier to chisel the tenon out if you cut a bit higher...they use epoxy glue that doesn't melt

Do the same. then heat the shaft and take the remaining part of the blade out somehow, good luck! and post the pics

OK so judging by what i thought was the fuse point (thought i could see it just from how the paint changed direction - and by your picture), I first set to cut below the fuse point, and then would just take more off if needed.

Once i cut it, the only thing inside was just foam, that i easily just pulled out. No heating or chiseling or get the rest of the blade out. Does this make any sense?

I even scraped off a little paint to see if there was any of the blade left on the outside, and to me it looks like its all once piece.

I took a video to show what I found. http://youtu.be/qpXQEToqRoE

I mean, It looks to me like its ready to accept a tapered blade - problem is no one has them around here, and there arent any tapered blades selling for cheap, so i dont wanna order one unless I know this looks good.

I still need to shorten the shaft a few inches, so if i need to take anymore off the bottom I can, but if not Ill just chop a few off the top.

[yrhmblnr8r 69]

Don't cut any more off the bottom of the shaft until you have a blade ready. If you go too high, you won't get a tight fit.

[bigmak05 0]

OK so judging by what i thought was the fuse point (thought i could see it just from how the paint changed direction - and by your picture), I first set to cut below the fuse point, and then would just take more off if needed.

Once i cut it, the only thing inside was just foam, that i easily just pulled out. No heating or chiseling or get the rest of the blade out. Does this make any sense?

I even scraped off a little paint to see if there was any of the blade left on the outside, and to me it looks like its all once piece.

I took a video to show what I found.

I mean, It looks to me like its ready to accept a tapered blade - problem is no one has them around here, and there arent any tapered blades selling for cheap, so i dont wanna order one unless I know this looks good.

I still need to shorten the shaft a few inches, so if i need to take anymore off the bottom I can, but if not Ill just chop a few off the top.

If there was only a bit of foam in the shaft you cut just above the tenon of the original blade. I wouldn't recommend taking any more off the bottom, as it is you may need a couple pieces of tape around the tapered blade to get that snug fit but it will accept a tapered blade with no issue.

[default user 3]

I have an ST and M5 that I want to do this too. Without havingt o readt throuhg all 37 pages if I cut them right will they take a tapered or standard? I'm gathering from what I have read that its tapered.

[Buzz_LightBeer 969]

Tapered. Go back a few pages and check out an SE16 or Mako that was converted. Will work similarly.

[MrData 93]

Has anyone done the 11k? Where exactly is the fuse point? I think I cut too low.

EDIT: Ok, just cut it at the fuse line. Got all the crap out of the shaft. I'll just have to see if a tapered blade fits in there (and get a butt end extension).

Here are some pics: http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/ComradePutin/library/Cutting%2011k%20OPS?sort=3&page=1

[tml67 0]

It looks like the tenon is still in the shaft.

[Buzz_LightBeer 969]

You can see the resin where the shaft ends and the tenon begins.

[MrData 93]

Thanks for the tips, but I got some advice from Gummer and cut it shortly after posting. I'll put up some pics of the finished shaft soon because I'd like to know if it'll accept a tapered blade.

[n3gkiwi 1]

I am going to pick up a chisel tomorrow. What size would be recommended? 1/4, 1/2, 3/4... inch???

I currently have a very dull 3/4 inch one and tried it on a Base stick. It was slow and painful. I was unable to do the smaller sided walls very well.

[n3gkiwi 1]

Swear I read this whole thread, but must have missed this... Guess I'll just buy a set.

flat head screw driver really isnt going to help you all that much. chisel is the absolutely minimum. dremel is good too. as for chisel sizes, i bought a combo pack that came with 1/4", 1/2" and 1"... and i use them all. depending on the quality of the fusion and the epoxy used, sometimes all you have to do is hit around the edges to seperate the tenon fron the shaft then in the middle and it will slowly pop out the other side... sometimes you have to chip away from the middle to the outside edge. if there's foam, i just use plyers to pull it out before i start.

[adam300 0]

Is it possible to make a CCM Crazylight to fit a tapered blade?

[Martis 0]

Hi guys

anyone ever tried to convert one of the new hi-(gh) fused warrior sticks? They are fused somewhere 12" - 15" from bottom.

[Martis 0]

Hi guys

anyone ever tried to convert one of the new hi-(gh) fused warrior sticks? They are fused somewhere 12" - 15" from bottom.

[louierev07 31]

Hi guys

anyone ever tried to convert one of the new hi-(gh) fused warrior sticks? They are fused somewhere 12" - 15" from bottom.

I have a warrior widow with the "dagger" taper, so im guessing thats the same kind as your referring to. My blade cracked on it pretty quickly (but outside the warranty window), so I thought about doing it. Unfortunately, I dont think think the stick is a good candidate to cut and try to put a tapered blade on.

I have a nexus 1000 shaft that I got off ebay, and it was long enough to where I could cut a little higher and put a standard blade instead of tapered. Its not terrible, but when I compare that to the mako shaft that I bought with the blade in the right spot, I can tell im getting much better performance from the mako. I used the nexus for maybe 3 or 4 games, and then switched to the mako, and the first thing I noticed was my slapshots sailing over the net every time. I think that 4 extra inches that I cut off messed up the kick point enough to where if you are a pretty decent player you might end up not being able to use it. (Im not that great, so for me its not a huge deal)

If I tried to do the same with the widow, I know the same would happen, plus i would need a huge plug to offset how much I cut off. Right now I just use it to stick handle until it really breaks. When it actually does, ill just flip it, put an abs blade in the other side, and use it for street hockey.

[Cosmic 178]

I just installed a replacement blade on an APX (1 piece with cracked blade) the other day for a friend. He measured the replacement blade, and figured he would saw off where the tenon meets the blade. Turned out that the replacement blade would not fit into where the original blade was, as the opening was too small. So, we had to cut off another 4 inches or so, to get to where the shaft opened up enough to fit the replacement. Thus, he pretty much lost his tapered/ low kick point in the process. Moral of the story, but 2 piece (shaft/replacement blades); but for whatever reason, people do not like this option. He has not used the new stick yet, but I bet that his wrist shot will be a bit dampened by the lack of that taper.

[louierev07 31]

anyone know how to remove a good blade from a broken shaft? I was able to snag a couple blades, but I dont wanna mess them up until I know how to do it right. Someone mentioned the directions are in this thread, but I looked and couldnt find them anywhere.