Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

[ATLstealth09 0]

I had been pretty successful with pulling blades from my Dolomites, but on my last one, I heated too far up the shift, and despite a decent amount of grit-saw shaving at the fuse point, the blade would not come out like on the other ones. I tried to use some leverage to pull on the blade, but ended up crumpling the shaft at the top of the "blade," which put a damper on my day (and my new shaft).

Anyways, morals of the story:

1. make sure when you are shaving the fuse point not to skimp and go a bit deeper. 1.5 mm at least.

2. do not heat any further up than the comparable length of a Dolomite 2 blade hosel.

3. do not pull the blade at an angle.

Hope this saves someone's shaft. Now, off to find a suitable butt end.

[db88 0]

gymmonster, did you put the blade in where at the part of the shaft where the original blade used to be? or did you flip it?

I want to do this with my one90 stick, put a blade in the end where the blade is now... you think it will work?

[jrhky36 1]

gymmonster, did you put the blade in where at the part of the shaft where the original blade used to be? or did you flip it?

I want to do this with my one90 stick, put a blade in the end where the blade is now... you think it will work?

i've cut several one90s to fit tapered blades. the point where i cut is just below the monocomp logo (the figure 8 loking thing). if you can wait a couple of days before you cut it i could post a couple of pics. out of town for a couple of days.

[ronnychencharik 0]

gymmonster, did you put the blade in where at the part of the shaft where the original blade used to be? or did you flip it?

I want to do this with my one90 stick, put a blade in the end where the blade is now... you think it will work?

i've cut several one90s to fit tapered blades. the point where i cut is just below the monocomp logo (the figure 8 loking thing). if you can wait a couple of days before you cut it i could post a couple of pics. out of town for a couple of days.

Odd request, but would it be possible for someone to measure how far down the monocomp logo is from the bottom of the swoosh? I just put applied a touch up paint job on my stick then it broke.

[jrhky36 1]

gymmonster, did you put the blade in where at the part of the shaft where the original blade used to be? or did you flip it?

I want to do this with my one90 stick, put a blade in the end where the blade is now... you think it will work?

i've cut several one90s to fit tapered blades. the point where i cut is just below the monocomp logo (the figure 8 loking thing). if you can wait a couple of days before you cut it i could post a couple of pics. out of town for a couple of days.

Odd request, but would it be possible for someone to measure how far down the monocomp logo is from the bottom of the swoosh? I just put applied a touch up paint job on my stick then it broke.

be happy to do but i won't be home until sat. will post that and pics then

[hockeyshmockey10 0]

problem solved

[fastmiele 59]

anyone have any tips on removing the blade to allow for a tapered blade on a reebok 10k prostock OPS?

i found two broken ones today from the milwaukee admirals and would rather use the tapered end instead of flipping it.

no problem, just did one a couple of weeks ago. I cut it off at the fuse point and continued to cut upwards until I got the 14mm x 26mm internal shaft measurement.

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index...7494&st=180

go to posting # 191 for pictures.

[hockeyshmockey10 0]

problem solved

[fastmiele 59]

i cut at the fuse point (i have done this with MANY synergys, tps, warrior sticks) but never with this new of a stick. i'll try to keep moving up and tell you how it goes.

I don't know if you care to preserve as much of the taper as possible, but you are going to have to use a dremel/file.

I was with a friend and he didn't have a file, so we kept cutting until there was no more tenon inside the tapered shaft. When we put in a tapered blade, it went in quite easily so had to put a piece of tape over the tenon to make it fit good. So I figured we could of saved an extra inch or so of the taper if we used a dremel/file.

[hockeyshmockey10 0]

problem solved

[fastmiele 59]

good for you, you used a bit of creativity and managed to save a bit of the taper. My friend had limited tools so a little bit of the taper was lost.

[minwookie 0]

A good way to knock out the existing tenon/blade is after you make your cut at the fuse point. Put in a heavy weight or piece of rebar that fits into the butt end of the stick. I used a steel file that was missing the handle.

Heat.

Use gravity and centrifugal force to make that weight into a hammer. It knocks the tenon out from the inside out.

[westcoastsniper 0]

Today I went into my LHS to get my skates sharpened and I saw a vapor xxxx tapered blade on sale for $19 so I figured what the hell why not.

Here are pictures of my experiment.

Where in Van. did you get that blade? I can't find anything cheap in metro Van. blades that are three years old or older are still like 30-60 bucks... and I'm a cheap bastard:)

[fatwabbit 93]

A good way to knock out the existing tenon/blade is after you make your cut at the fuse point. Put in a heavy weight or piece of rebar that fits into the butt end of the stick. I used a steel file that was missing the handle.

Heat.

Use gravity and centrifugal force to make that weight into a hammer. It knocks the tenon out from the inside out.

Minwookie, do you mean to hold onto the butt end, and swing it like a bat so that the file kinda shoots towards the tenon?

Today I went into my LHS to get my skates sharpened and I saw a vapor xxxx tapered blade on sale for $19 so I figured what the hell why not.

Here are pictures of my experiment.

Where in Van. did you get that blade? I can't find anything cheap in metro Van. blades that are three years old or older are still like 30-60 bucks... and I'm a cheap bastard:)

Yea, I'd like to know as well...

[interpathway 9]

A good way to knock out the existing tenon/blade is after you make your cut at the fuse point. Put in a heavy weight or piece of rebar that fits into the butt end of the stick. I used a steel file that was missing the handle.

Heat.

Use gravity and centrifugal force to make that weight into a hammer. It knocks the tenon out from the inside out.

Minwookie, do you mean to hold onto the butt end, and swing it like a bat so that the file kinda shoots towards the tenon?

Certainly.

[ronnychencharik 0]

gymmonster, did you put the blade in where at the part of the shaft where the original blade used to be? or did you flip it?

I want to do this with my one90 stick, put a blade in the end where the blade is now... you think it will work?

i've cut several one90s to fit tapered blades. the point where i cut is just below the monocomp logo (the figure 8 loking thing). if you can wait a couple of days before you cut it i could post a couple of pics. out of town for a couple of days.

Odd request, but would it be possible for someone to measure how far down the monocomp logo is from the bottom of the swoosh? I just put applied a touch up paint job on my stick then it broke.

Anyone?

[minwookie 0]

A good way to knock out the existing tenon/blade is after you make your cut at the fuse point. Put in a heavy weight or piece of rebar that fits into the butt end of the stick. I used a steel file that was missing the handle.

Heat.

Use gravity and centrifugal force to make that weight into a hammer. It knocks the tenon out from the inside out.

Minwookie, do you mean to hold onto the butt end, and swing it like a bat so that the file kinda shoots towards the tenon?

Certainly.

Yeah. At first I held the shaft vertically and dropped the file like a pile driver. You could take a few easy swings. I'd recommend against taking a hard swing, because if you hit it with enough force, you are gonna have a projectile that could potentially do some damage.

[fatwabbit 93]

does the pile driver method work? I would assume that the centrifugal method would work with the added force you add to it...

so basically cut at the fuse point, ensuring that you cut thru the shaft thickness so that all that is holding it in place is the tenon, correct?

[minwookie 0]

does the pile driver method work? I would assume that the centrifugal method would work with the added force you add to it...

so basically cut at the fuse point, ensuring that you cut thru the shaft thickness so that all that is holding it in place is the tenon, correct?

Yeah it worked fine. Sorry for late response I read through all 58 pages of that FBV thread.. whew...

I'm sure with certain sticks you can do it without cutting the blade off at all, and certain sticks you can't do it, period. It depends on a few different things...

The method used to bind the blade to the shaft. Like if they used epoxy or glue.

Foam inserts above the tenon might mess with effectiveness of the force impact.

Shape of the tenon, hollow with a solid top or hollow through like eastons.

Ideally you give it a shot without doing any cutting. Just a bit of heating (not overheating) and some pile driving, maybe some swinging. If that doesn't work give try cutting through the shaftwalls above the fusepoint and repeating. I can tell you 100% that it is possible with the RBK 7k after cutting above the fusepoint.

[sfael 0]

For all those who have successfully pulled blades from XN10s did you it take you guys a real long time? I made a shallow cut along the fuse point and have been heating and pulling for a while and still doesn't seem to be budging. Any help on how to get this blade out?

[fastmiele 59]

For all those who have successfully pulled blades from XN10s did you it take you guys a real long time? I made a shallow cut along the fuse point and have been heating and pulling for a while and still doesn't seem to be budging. Any help on how to get this blade out?

I went through the same difficulty myself. One member told me that he needed to heat it for at least 10 minutes before trying to pull. Unfortunately I already cut the blade off by then.

[Ogie Oglethorpe 14]

It takes some wiggling, but should be "easy" to remove (at least in comparison to that of a Synnergy let's say).

TPS uses a TON of glue (injected from the interior of the shaft to fit all nooks and cranies).

[team50 20]

Just pulled a blade. Lots of glue and took about 10 minutes of gentle heating.

[sfael 0]

Did you guys cut along the fuse point or just straight heat and pull like a two piece.

[sabres48 0]

Question of the day, can i convert a Dolo HD, broken OPS, to a 100% funtioning tapered shaft? By this i mean, if i cut it right will it tightly hold a tapered blade?

Its likley JR may be the only one to answer this but, what is the distance from the edge of the W to the fuse point on the side of the stick where warrior reads from blade to buttend? Sounds like an awkward measurment but go with me on this.