Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

[fatwabbit 93]

Got another SE16 done yesterday, I originally thought that I've screwed up the tapered end, but the plug came out pretty clean. Fits a tapered blade nice and snug.

[automorph 0]

I was able to get tapered blades into a pair of broken Corey Perry prostock shafts I got from somebody on the boards here. It was a lot of effort to drill / chisel the old tenons out. Definitely not a heat and pull experience for me because the blades were already broken off. It is certainly possible, but I would err on the side of caution and expect to have to put in some time / effort to get it done. It took me a couple hours+ to get both shafts done successfully.

Anyone do a TPS R8 Lite?

Hoping for a "dolomite" heat and pull experience?

Anyone?

Thanks

took me a full 6 hours....definitely do not recommend but I now have a whip flex pro radius (super slim shaft) super light shaft.....awesome

heat to find fuse line

cut along fuse line

chisel out tendon (too much work)

eventually all will come out

definitely a heat, curse, cut, curse, chisel, bash, chip, rip, curse curse curse, experience

[Razr 2]

So I guess if no one on here has done the Bauer One95... I'm going to give it a shot...

[Machinehead2k5 32]

So I guess if no one on here has done the Bauer One95... I'm going to give it a shot...

I did it to my Samsonov Pro stock after I broke the blade. I just took a tapered blade matched it up to the broken blade cut the shaft and went from there.

[HattrickSwayze 3]

I did it with one of my Samsonov One95's as well. I cut a half inch at a time until a tapered blade fit. Because of the thin taper on mine, by the time a blade fit, I had to put about a 6" wood plug in it to get it back to useable height.

[Machinehead2k5 32]

I did it with one of my Samsonov One95's as well. I cut a half inch at a time until a tapered blade fit. Because of the thin taper on mine, by the time a blade fit, I had to put about a 6" wood plug in it to get it back to useable height.

x2 :P

[xrickyb86x 1]

I found an older pro stock (Connoly) Warrior Dolomite at a used sports shop in my area for $15 bucks. Blade was a little worn but the stick was excellent. I bought it without thinking twice. I took it home and used it in a few pick up games before I decided I hated the curve. I could see the pressure crack forming where the blade was inserted and after a while I could feel the blade rattling inside so I decided to go for it.

I took an old, but sharp, knife and cut along the line until I got slightly deep. I heated and pulled and it didn't work. I cut a little more, heated, pulled, and that sucker popped right out. It was actually a lot easier than I thought. It took me about 5 minutes total. I'm gonna take an old wood blade and try to get it down to a taper size and use it out on a cement inline rink we have here.

[tml67 0]

I did it with one of my Samsonov One95's as well. I cut a half inch at a time until a tapered blade fit. Because of the thin taper on mine, by the time a blade fit, I had to put about a 6" wood plug in it to get it back to useable height.

Was the one piece cut down in length? How long is the shaft after the final cut was made to fit a tapered blade?

[fatwabbit 93]

Most warriors are seemingly easy. These are the conversions that I've done before with the heat and chisel method:

TPS Rubber Response - gave away, still being used by new owner after more than a year

Sherwood RM19

TPSXN10 - did one before, goign to do another one when I finally get it back from someone I know

2 Warrior Dolomite Prostocks

5 SE16 prostocks

All of them have found either new homes, or were traded away. I have tried the pile-driver method as well, but with no success. So far what I've had success with was to cut at the fuse point, and heat up the tapered end. Only takes about 20 sec or so of heating up, before using a hammer and flat screwdrive to seperate the tenon from the shaft... slowly and lightly chiselling that way, and once you get around I just swap to a flat file, and use that to tap the tenon 'into' the shaft. As the tenon goes down the shaft the taper starts to flare out and it gets easier and easier.

[tml67 0]

I converted two XN10s witht the heat & pull method, but it was a beeeatch!!!

[HattrickSwayze 3]

I did it with one of my Samsonov One95's as well. I cut a half inch at a time until a tapered blade fit. Because of the thin taper on mine, by the time a blade fit, I had to put about a 6" wood plug in it to get it back to useable height.

Was the one piece cut down in length? How long is the shaft after the final cut was made to fit a tapered blade?

It was cut down maybe 2". The shaft after fitting a blade is about 47". The wood plug I had to put in it is almost 7" long..

[sickwilly 37]

Just converted a Montreal Nitro lite by cutting it a few times. Had to file down the corners of the tenon to make the blade go in. Will need a couple of inches' worth of butt end extension, though. Looks like it came out OK.

[tml67 0]

I did it with one of my Samsonov One95's as well. I cut a half inch at a time until a tapered blade fit. Because of the thin taper on mine, by the time a blade fit, I had to put about a 6" wood plug in it to get it back to useable height.

Was the one piece cut down in length? How long is the shaft after the final cut was made to fit a tapered blade?

It was cut down maybe 2". The shaft after fitting a blade is about 47". The wood plug I had to put in it is almost 7" long..

A 47" tapered shaft will definitely be too short. A tapered blade is typically 2" shorter than an standard blade, so I'll probably need a 5" wood extension.

Thanks for the info.

[farhanshak 1]

hey guys

here is a quick question for everyone...

i have a mission m1 intermediate stick 75 flex which i broke the blade on...

i want to cut the blade and turn it into a 2 piece stick

if i do this, will it take senior tapered blades or junior blades or junior tapered blades?

as well where should i cut it...i am thinking of cutting it near the bottom right where the "M" mission logo ends.

any pointers/helpers would be great.

thank you in advance everybody. :D

[ndlancer95 0]

Okay I'm pissed that my synergy se broke but need some help. I lopped offthe blade 5 inches from the fuse point. What type of blades will this take? Or, if I flip the shaft, will it be a standard opening? Thanks

[farhanshak 1]

to anyone on here that cut the blade off of a broken ONE95 ops, did it mess up the flex at all?

i have a One95 OPS with a broken blade...snapped the blade off and was thinking of turning it into a shaft.

its an 87 flex...i havent cut it so its still at retail length.

any help would be great.

thanks everyone

[al36 0]

Okay I'm pissed that my synergy se broke but need some help. I lopped offthe blade 5 inches from the fuse point. What type of blades will this take? Or, if I flip the shaft, will it be a standard opening? Thanks

Yes, you can flip it and use a standard blade (26x16mm), but if you want to use a tapered blade, then dimension of blade is around 25x13mm, Bauer says 0,52"=13,2mm. Try to measure the shaft in place where is cut and you will see...

[ChiefHockey13 0]

I want to turn my broken x60 into a two piece. How do I know where to cut it so I can put in a tapered blade?

[bosch88 0]

has anyone converted a broken (in the blade) RBK 8.0.8 into a two piece stick? it looks like the last hole ends in a "V" shape, and it would be virtually impossible to cut and put in a tapered blade...

[IniNew 51]

has anyone converted a broken (in the blade) RBK 8.0.8 into a two piece stick? it looks like the last hole ends in a "V" shape, and it would be virtually impossible to cut and put in a tapered blade...

i don't think it's possible. I remember there being a discussion on the same hing with the 9K O-sticks.

[Spence4101 0]

has anyone turned the u+ cl into a shaft? Mine broke about two inches down from the u+ logo at the bottom of the shaft... Where should I cut into it to fit a sr. tapered blade... Yes I realize I can use the guess and check method but I thought I'd see if anyone had experience with it first.

[shotty 7]

has anyone turned the u+ cl into a shaft? Mine broke about two inches down from the u+ logo at the bottom of the shaft... Where should I cut into it to fit a sr. tapered blade... Yes I realize I can use the guess and check method but I thought I'd see if anyone had experience with it first.

i've done it. i'll check and report back. mine broke at the heel, so i had a lot to work with. if i remember correctly, my first attempt was too narrow for a tapered blade, but i nailed it on my second slice. it makes a SWEET shaft, by the way... i didnt like it with a mission pro stock i had, but it was excellent with a dolomite.

[Spence4101 0]

nailed it

(pictures for anyones reference)

[reddevils9119 1]

I was bored today and decided to mess around with some sticks. Turned a broken One90 into a 2 piece stick, but it lost quite a bit of length. Also managed to save the blade of an old synergy that broke about a foot away from the blade. It was a lot easier than I expected to get the blade out with a saw and screwdriver.

Pics:

edit: Pics were huge the first time

[zebra_steve 11]

I was given an Easton Synegy ST shaft with the blade broken off flush to the front of the shaft - the shaft is intact all the way to the heel. I would like to cut it down and put a blade into it, but being a dinosaur I have not kept up on the differences in all of the OPS constructions out there. So where do I cut it and what blades should I look for? I have thought about incremental cuts until I reach an reasonable size opening as I have several old 2 piece sticks here that are all 10+ years old and include an Easton gold 4950 AL and an original Easton Ultralight Graphite Composite. It would be nice to have blade commonality but if there is a better choice I would be open to suggestions.