PROSHARP ADVANTEDGE HOME MACHINE

[pgeorgan 73]

Has anyone heard of this? I just came across it in the 2024 Bauer catalogue. Looks pretty cool. I'd post the link but not sure if we're allowed to post unreleased catalogues. 

[krisdrum 223]

Is it just an updated ProSharp Home?  

[stick9 881]

I've heard about it from a few different sources though I dont have any details. I assume it's to compete with the Sparx. If so theyre a little late to the game. I'm skeptical.

[noupf 42]

https://www.instagram.com/p/C3aa5opAi_A/

[krisdrum 223]

@noupf Nice.  Thanks.  Sure looks like a Sparx.  Prosharp Home may not be as pretty but looks a lot easier to transport and use for the intended purpose - travel / mobility / small footprint.  Interested to learn more, but not sure I see the benefit outside of being able to watch the wheel go wheee!!!

[Leif 160]

13 hours ago, krisdrum said:

Is it just an updated ProSharp Home?  

The ProSharp Home was made in Sweden, which explains the high price. I assume this is pretty much the same beast but made in China to make it competitive. 

Incidentally, if you Google “prosharp advantedge home machine” you can find the user manual. I won’t paste the link in case it violates the forum rules. 

Edited March 29 by Leif

[Leif 160]

Some features:

• Flat wheels (cross grind) available. 
• Firmware update via wifi. 
• Blade clamp operated by a touch button, not manually. 
• Displays the current wheel hollow and usage. 
• Displays the current user profile: preferred hollow, number of cycles and blade type i.e. goalie/player. 

 

[pgeorgan 73]

4 hours ago, Leif said:

If you Google “prosharp advantedge home machine” you can find the user manual.

How did I miss that!? Thanks for the heads up. I'll take a look. It looks considerably more concise than the Sparx manual. 

Of note: it claims to have "Auto-Sharpening Height & Self-Centering". 

Edited March 29 by pgeorgan

[Leif 160]

5 hours ago, pgeorgan said:

Of note: it claims to have "Auto-Sharpening Height & Self-Centering". 

How did I miss that! Thanks. 

That would be significant when sharpening other peoples skates. Though to be honest I find that I don’t need to recentre the unit with friends skates. 

[Vet88 673]

Looks like a complete redesign, imho it was necessary due to the many many problems with the Swedish model. I have a prosharp skatepal pro 3 (which is built on the same platform as the home version) that I am gradually modifying to fix the cheap build sh*t issues.

[Vet88 673]

7 hours ago, Leif said:

Though to be honest I find that I don’t need to recentre the unit with friends skates. 

All vertical skate mounted machines that secure with a 2 sided clamp are supposedly "self centering", once they are set up and maintained properly. Wear and tear on the clamping mechanism components is the biggest cause of uneven edges in these machines.

[VegasHockey 1261]

They had this on display at Bauer World and it had a catastrophic failure on the first day and became inoperable. Lol 

I think it's overpriced and the fact that Bauer is wanting retailers to sell the machine and accessories doesn't make sense. 

Personally, if I was to use a machine at home and wanted something easy to operate, I would buy a used Sparx. 

 

 

[Leif 160]

7 hours ago, Vet88 said:

Looks like a complete redesign, imho it was necessary due to the many many problems with the Swedish model. I have a prosharp skatepal pro 3 (which is built on the same platform as the home version) that I am gradually modifying to fix the cheap build sh*t issues.

A local shop had a Skate Pal Pro 3, as well as a hand sharpener. It sat unused under a table, customers always asked for a hand sharpen and they had some issues with it. Eventually they sold it. I had a ProSharp BAT gauge that was out by a few thou, and a ProSharp depth gauge that was a cheap and nasty POS. Another local shop has a higher end ProSharp machine which seems to be excellent. What issues do you have with your SP3? 

I’m very impressed with the quality of my Sparx. One sample tells us nothing, but online feedback is incredibly positive. They once had an issue with some wheels not being recognised by early machines, that was fixed with a firmware update. I’m not aware of other issues, though I wonder how long they last. Hand machines last decades. 

[Vet88 673]

Issues with the sp3:

- if the blade holder on the boot has any damage to it that affects the way it sits in the V (eg a small cut where the plastic may sit a little proud), the alignment will be out. Instead of a V they should have just had a flat surface. You must religiously check the holder every time and double check how the boot is sitting in the machine, every time. 

- the clamp that holds the blade is too small, in my experience a lot of blades have slight curve in them so if you want a straight edge on anything bigger than a junior size you need to remove the blade from the holder and put it into a separate holder that will hold it straight.

- the clamp itself should be made from hardened steel. Instead its made from a soft steel that wears quickly (remember this is supposed to be a commercial version) where it runs around the clamp alignment bearings. You end up with different wear on each side of the clamp which starts to throw the clamp alignment out. Not only does the alignment move out on one side but it also moves out from front to back ie it slightly twists so the blade will be more left at the front and more right at the back.

- now you have to realign the clamp to take care of minor wear in the clamp. wtf, it's actually not designed to be realigned, even by a few thou. You can do it but because of the way they have designed it, the bearing is meant to center the clamp and be located in just one place. But the bolt that secures the alignment bearing can float by 1/2mm in the securing the channel. 1/2mm one one side in the front bearing and 1/2mm to the other side in the back is up to 1mm deviation, f**k. Now you have to manually align it over and over with no way to move the bearing securing bolt in any controlled manner. Yes, a new clamp mechanism fixes this but I'm talking about very minor wear here and the alignment starts to go out.

- the overall design of how the clamp bearing alignment bolt is secured is really piss poor (this would be my biggest complaint). They use a really thin shim to help secure the bearing where it sits over a channel. The shim gives way (the shaft of the bearing pushes the shim into the channel) and the bearing securing bolt gets loose, oh f**k, now I'm having to realign the F*****G machine again. JFC!!!!!!

- You have to move the sharpening wheel forward by about one inch to access the sharpening wheel adjustment nut. wtf, all they had to do was cut the opening into the machine further to the right so you could easily access the alignment wheel without having to move the sharpening wheel, morons. And if you forget to push the start button just right so it moves the wheel for adjustment instead of a sharpen, bugger. Now it runs up the device and the sharpening wheel takes chunks out of the blade alignment clamp. I've done it, I've seen 5 of these machines where everyone else has done it, what a cluster f**k. 

So when these things get any wear in them, they are stuffed. This is why they end up sitting under a bench, every time you realign them and you think its ok, the alignment goes out after a few sharpens. You can't run a sharpening business with this device unless you are prepared to replace the clamp mechanism and associated parts every few months (in a commercial or rink setting) and getting support from Prosharp, what a joke (my experience and other rinks I've talked to).

What I have done to fix this (if you know the machine you will know what I am talking about) - made the clamp from high tensile steel. Made multiple clamps that are longer to better hold blades straight. Changed the way the clamp is held to the arms, instead of rivets I now use a nut and bolt and miniature bearing. Modified stand offs to fit the clamp alignment bearing (so I didn't need the shim and when I secure the bearing in place it doesn't lock the bearing and stop it from spinning). Changed the clamp alignment bearings so the center spigot was bigger. Added high tensile steel flat bars that perfectly fit the channels the clamp alignment bolts go into. The bars are machined from high tensile solid steel and include a machined pin the clamp alignment bearing sits onto. This allows me to secure the clamp alignment bearing from the top instead of a nut at the bottom in the channel. I can change the clamp quickly without worrying about the clamp alignment bearing moving so the clamp alignment always stays the same. At the other end of the bar are 2 additional holes that securing bolts go into to hold the bar in place. One the bar is secured the bearing cannot move and can be perfectly centered in relation to the other 3 bearings. Added to the end of the locking bar is a tube, I can insert a threaded rod into the tube and use this to move the locking bar and therefore the clamp alignment bearing by thousands of an inch to help realign the clamp when wear occurs. I've cut openings in the side of the machine and attached some digital laser beam measurement devices that take measurements (both sides of the blade) back / middle / front of the blade. Once the machine is properly aligned, these measuring devices can be zeroed to the distance of the blade. Now every time I put a blade into the machine I can instantly check that it is centered to the wheel and centered along the length of the blade.

My next project on it is to make a locking mechanism that will hold template profiles and the blade. I also have to modify the pin that holds the sharpening wheel on (add a bearing to it). Now I will be able to do profiles on the machine. I will have to take the blade out of the boot holder to do the profile but I'm ok with that. 

[Leif 160]

Blimey, and that machine costs serious money too. ☹️

[VegasHockey 1261]

8 hours ago, Vet88 said:

Issues with the sp3:

- if the blade holder on the boot has any damage to it that affects the way it sits in the V (eg a small cut where the plastic may sit a little proud), the alignment will be out. Instead of a V they should have just had a flat surface. You must religiously check the holder every time and double check how the boot is sitting in the machine, every time. 

- the clamp that holds the blade is too small, in my experience a lot of blades have slight curve in them so if you want a straight edge on anything bigger than a junior size you need to remove the blade from the holder and put it into a separate holder that will hold it straight.

- the clamp itself should be made from hardened steel. Instead its made from a soft steel that wears quickly (remember this is supposed to be a commercial version) where it runs around the clamp alignment bearings. You end up with different wear on each side of the clamp which starts to throw the clamp alignment out. Not only does the alignment move out on one side but it also moves out from front to back ie it slightly twists so the blade will be more left at the front and more right at the back.

- now you have to realign the clamp to take care of minor wear in the clamp. wtf, it's actually not designed to be realigned, even by a few thou. You can do it but because of the way they have designed it, the bearing is meant to center the clamp and be located in just one place. But the bolt that secures the alignment bearing can float by 1/2mm in the securing the channel. 1/2mm one one side in the front bearing and 1/2mm to the other side in the back is up to 1mm deviation, f**k. Now you have to manually align it over and over with no way to move the bearing securing bolt in any controlled manner. Yes, a new clamp mechanism fixes this but I'm talking about very minor wear here and the alignment starts to go out.

- the overall design of how the clamp bearing alignment bolt is secured is really piss poor (this would be my biggest complaint). They use a really thin shim to help secure the bearing where it sits over a channel. The shim gives way (the shaft of the bearing pushes the shim into the channel) and the bearing securing bolt gets loose, oh f**k, now I'm having to realign the F*****G machine again. JFC!!!!!!

- You have to move the sharpening wheel forward by about one inch to access the sharpening wheel adjustment nut. wtf, all they had to do was cut the opening into the machine further to the right so you could easily access the alignment wheel without having to move the sharpening wheel, morons. And if you forget to push the start button just right so it moves the wheel for adjustment instead of a sharpen, bugger. Now it runs up the device and the sharpening wheel takes chunks out of the blade alignment clamp. I've done it, I've seen 5 of these machines where everyone else has done it, what a cluster f**k. 

So when these things get any wear in them, they are stuffed. This is why they end up sitting under a bench, every time you realign them and you think its ok, the alignment goes out after a few sharpens. You can't run a sharpening business with this device unless you are prepared to replace the clamp mechanism and associated parts every few months (in a commercial or rink setting) and getting support from Prosharp, what a joke (my experience and other rinks I've talked to).

What I have done to fix this (if you know the machine you will know what I am talking about) - made the clamp from high tensile steel. Made multiple clamps that are longer to better hold blades straight. Changed the way the clamp is held to the arms, instead of rivets I now use a nut and bolt and miniature bearing. Modified stand offs to fit the clamp alignment bearing (so I didn't need the shim and when I secure the bearing in place it doesn't lock the bearing and stop it from spinning). Changed the clamp alignment bearings so the center spigot was bigger. Added high tensile steel flat bars that perfectly fit the channels the clamp alignment bolts go into. The bars are machined from high tensile solid steel and include a machined pin the clamp alignment bearing sits onto. This allows me to secure the clamp alignment bearing from the top instead of a nut at the bottom in the channel. I can change the clamp quickly without worrying about the clamp alignment bearing moving so the clamp alignment always stays the same. At the other end of the bar are 2 additional holes that securing bolts go into to hold the bar in place. One the bar is secured the bearing cannot move and can be perfectly centered in relation to the other 3 bearings. Added to the end of the locking bar is a tube, I can insert a threaded rod into the tube and use this to move the locking bar and therefore the clamp alignment bearing by thousands of an inch to help realign the clamp when wear occurs. I've cut openings in the side of the machine and attached some digital laser beam measurement devices that take measurements (both sides of the blade) back / middle / front of the blade. Once the machine is properly aligned, these measuring devices can be zeroed to the distance of the blade. Now every time I put a blade into the machine I can instantly check that it is centered to the wheel and centered along the length of the blade.

My next project on it is to make a locking mechanism that will hold template profiles and the blade. I also have to modify the pin that holds the sharpening wheel on (add a bearing to it). Now I will be able to do profiles on the machine. I will have to take the blade out of the boot holder to do the profile but I'm ok with that. 

Seems like a lot of work to add the ability to profile to this machine. I think you could just buy a bench grinder and fabricate tooling to hold profile templates for about the same cost. You should also look for a ProSharp AS machine for cheap too, I know many pure Hockey locations have been selling their ProSharp machines for cheap. Some stores have sold their machines for $1000 or less. 

[HockeyWillNZ 0]

anyone know what the $RRP of the new prosharp advantedge will be?

[Vet88 673]

12 hours ago, VegasHockey said:

Seems like a lot of work to add the ability to profile to this machine. I think you could just buy a bench grinder and fabricate tooling to hold profile templates for about the same cost. You should also look for a ProSharp AS machine for cheap too, I know many pure Hockey locations have been selling their ProSharp machines for cheap. Some stores have sold their machines for $1000 or less. 

I have a welder, grinding wheel, milling machine and access to a lathe and cnc machine. Fabrication isn't the issue, time is. This is a hobby for me as opposed to a must have or business related going concern, I could buy a purpose built machine or have the fun of building the ps3 into something different, just because I can.

As to those who asked me why bother? There are a number of reasons, besides the clamp mechanism the ps3 machine is actually well built and the way it is built means I can make many adaptations to it. And it has one huge advantage over all of the other automatic sharpeners in the lower to mid end of the cost market - minimum electronics. AND - the sharpening wheel isn't controlled by the machine. Besides Prosharp supplied wheels, I have also sourced a range of traditional stone wheels and when the right stone is used for the type of blade in the machine I get a sharpen as good as many hand sharpens I have had. I still have to remove the sharpening wheel to dress it (pita atm) but I'm going to add the pencil into the case next month and make the electronic adjustments I need so I can spin the wheel to dress it but the wheel carriage doesn't move. I'm also thinking of removing the existing front of the case and replacing it with a door so I can get quick and open access to the inserted blade and sharpening wheel and adjustments. Then I can add polishing passes and, with some other stone wheels I have coming, play around with wet and oil sharpens.