Change curve of blade

[#1STUD 0]

I had to get a new blade recently becuase my other one broke. I am used to useing a brendl, but my LHS didnt have any so i went with a coffey. Now my shot goes high every time. I was wondering if i could heat up the blade( its a woody) and change the shape. Its not true wood though its got some like laminate stuff on it too. So is it possible to change the shape by heating it and if it is does anybody have any tips for me.

[dietzie27 0]

its possible, but i wouldnt recommend it. but if you do try it, try to balance the heat, or certain spots will become even weaker.

[joshy207 15]

With a wood blade, it's pretty easy. Like Dietzie said, make sure you balance out the heat (don't stay in one place for too long) or you could weaken the blade or cause the fiberglass laminate to peel away. Heat the blade, make sure you heat the entire face of the blade equally. Get both the front and back sides. To alter the curve, you can step on the blade, stick it under a door... figure out the best way to alter the curve into what you are looking for. When you're done, run it under some cold water to help preserve your changes. The blade may end up being slightly weaker... if not at first, then maybe over time... but you'll have the curve you're looking for.

[Gongshow11 1]

i curve tps x-lites anll th etime and htye have laminate on them. just heat a bit at a time,. you know you will be heating to much when the laminate begins to bubble

[smithy19 0]

i curve my sher-wood 950's i just use a heat gun and my foot..lol but dont keep the heat in one spot like they said

[Timber 0]

I use the Procurve tool shown below. It works fine with a heat gun, but requires some patience to heat the blade slowly and evenly. What works better is to put the blade in, set the curve you want, then put the assembly in the oven for 12-15 min at 185 F. Leave the blade in the tool until it cools to room temperature. I haven't noticed any loss in blade stiffness or durability after curving with this technique (no fiberglass delamination).

http://www.epuck.com/webapp/wcs/stores/ser...tegoryId=891745

[opus22 0]

heat the blade, shape it with the proform, then put it in the oven? sorry, just clarifying - i will be messing with the synthesis wood blades when they come out, gonna put a toe on the modano. sounds like a good plan if im understanding you.

[troybruins89 0]

timber- would it heat more evenly if you heated it in the oven the first time u heat it then put it in the curver for the second time?

im not sure i totally understand your instructions so this idea may be way off

[Timber 0]

The following procedure has worked well for curving a dozen plus wood blades including the following: Sherwood 950, Bauer 7500, Mission ether, T-flex, Legend custom, TPS r2):

1. Put the blade in the tool (both at room temperature)

2. Adjust the tool such that the blade is shaped to your liking.

3. Put the assembly (blade in tool) in the oven pre-heated to 185 F.

4. Remove blade from oven after 15 min. and allow to cool to room temperature.

5. Remove blade from tool.

To answer the previous questions, I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work to pre-heat the blade prior to putting in the curving tool, but the 2 challenges would be:

1. The temperature needed to permanently deform the blade are a little tough to tolerate with a bare hand.

2. You're on the clock once you stop applying heat to the blade. It occasionally takes a bit of time to get the blade shaped in the tool just the way you want it.

I don't see any advantage in pre-heating the blade. Good luck!

[Gongshow11 1]

u can easily use a heat gun, ur foot or the bootom of a door and some practice to change a blade

[hunter4oz 0]

what type of curve are you trying to turn the coffey into? this may be difficult if you are trying to make a modo type curve or a flatter curve because the laminate may come off from bending it too much. this happened to me, but it worked when i used flatter curve and put some heel into it . just go easy with it and go slow so you make sure nothing will go wrong.

[PH_Hockey2 4]

what type of curve are you trying to turn the coffey into? this may be difficult if you are trying to make a modo type curve or a flatter curve because the laminate may come off from bending it too much. this happened to me, but it worked when i used flatter curve and put some heel into it . just go easy with it and go slow so you make sure nothing will go wrong.

That also happen to me too when i tried to make the coffey flatter.

[iceholes 0]

ahhhh the good ol days of curving your own stick!!!

[tokes 0]

When you're done, run it under some cold water to help preserve your changes.

Running it under cold water is the absolutely worst thing he could do for the strength of the blade.

[JR Boucicaut 3805]

Joshy is right.

I use ice.

[tokes 0]

Joshy is right.

I use ice.

With everything I've ever worked with, the worst thing you can possibly do is a sudden cool down, why should it be any different with wood?

[JR Boucicaut 3805]

If you don't cool it down, it will revert to the original position.

[#1STUD 0]

Thanks for all the replies. I am trying to make it into a brendl, only have it be a little more open.

[tokes 0]

If you don't cool it down, it will revert to the original position.

I have one of those blade curvers, I put the blade in the oven to get it hot, put it in the curver, then put them both in the oven with the oven off to let them gradually cool off. I don't think a flash cooling is good for the strength of anything.

[joshy207 15]

With everything I've ever worked with, the worst thing you can possibly do is a sudden cool down, why should it be any different with wood?

I have one of those blade curvers, I put the blade in the oven to get it hot, put it in the curver, then put them both in the oven with the oven off to let them gradually cool off. I don't think a flash cooling is good for the strength of anything.

Wood is not the same as all other materials that we work with in hockey. It's not like glass, steel, plastic, carbon, graphite... wood is not weakened by flash cooling like those other materials are. Wood blades will not retain their new curves if they're left to cool on their own. If you leave your blades in the ProCurve device, you don't need to cool it down, the device won't let the blade revert to its old shape.

Besides, you're just guessing... if you have scientific evidence about the properties of wood when heated and flash-cooled, or if you've had problems with the durability of wood blades you've curved and flash-cooled, tell us about that. JR and I and thousands of other guys ranging from house and beer leagues all the way up to the NHL have not had such problems...

[tokes 0]

With everything I've ever worked with, the worst thing you can possibly do is a sudden cool down, why should it be any different with wood?

I have one of those blade curvers, I put the blade in the oven to get it hot, put it in the curver, then put them both in the oven with the oven off to let them gradually cool off. I don't think a flash cooling is good for the strength of anything.

Wood is not the same as all other materials that we work with in hockey. It's not like glass, steel, plastic, carbon, graphite... wood is not weakened by flash cooling like those other materials are. Wood blades will not retain their new curves if they're left to cool on their own. If you leave your blades in the ProCurve device, you don't need to cool it down, the device won't let the blade revert to its old shape.

Besides, you're just guessing... if you have scientific evidence about the properties of wood when heated and flash-cooled, or if you've had problems with the durability of wood blades you've curved and flash-cooled, tell us about that. JR and I and thousands of other guys ranging from house and beer leagues all the way up to the NHL have not had such problems...

I'll work something up :P

I just figured wood was on the same lines as everything else i've ever dealt with. Doesn't matter how I do it though, curved blades always seem to get floppy for me quicker than normal.

[Chadd 916]

Most of the time, heating damages the fiber wrap and allows water into the wood more quickly.

[joshy207 15]

With everything I've ever worked with, the worst thing you can possibly do is a sudden cool down, why should it be any different with wood?

I have one of those blade curvers, I put the blade in the oven to get it hot, put it in the curver, then put them both in the oven with the oven off to let them gradually cool off. I don't think a flash cooling is good for the strength of anything.

Wood is not the same as all other materials that we work with in hockey. It's not like glass, steel, plastic, carbon, graphite... wood is not weakened by flash cooling like those other materials are. Wood blades will not retain their new curves if they're left to cool on their own. If you leave your blades in the ProCurve device, you don't need to cool it down, the device won't let the blade revert to its old shape.

Besides, you're just guessing... if you have scientific evidence about the properties of wood when heated and flash-cooled, or if you've had problems with the durability of wood blades you've curved and flash-cooled, tell us about that. JR and I and thousands of other guys ranging from house and beer leagues all the way up to the NHL have not had such problems...

I'll work something up :P

I just figured wood was on the same lines as everything else i've ever dealt with. Doesn't matter how I do it though, curved blades always seem to get floppy for me quicker than normal.

Gotcha. I'm not saying that heating wood blades does wonders for their durability... I've found it doesn't affect their durability much, if at all. (Not that wood blades have great durability...most get soft very quickly). However, if you heat the blade carefully enough, it should be ok...

[LetsGoWings13 0]

Most of the time, heating damages the fiber wrap and allows water into the wood more quickly.

so if you curve your stick would spraypainting it help??

[dddatsyuk--48 0]

wait so lets ask a basic question........is curving your own pattern bad for the blade or good??

AND do you ONLY curve woodies? and how would you curve one piece sticks?? One pieces are too big to fit in the oven....

Timber, where did you get your pro curver? i went to the link and there was "add to cart" link.