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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble

fatwabbit

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Everything posted by fatwabbit

  1. fatwabbit
    haha... sure! Just that i dont play ice, so I'd say my likes may not be the norm. Whatever teh case, those are nice looking skates.
  2. fatwabbit
    haha, sorry guys just my PP. I'm more of an inline guy anyway, so my opinion doesnt really count.
  3. fatwabbit
    black tuuks and it would be sweet!
  4. fatwabbit
    http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index...ighlite=%2Bnuts
  5. fatwabbit
    Go to the hardware store and get a pin punch. A small one 1.5mm should do the trick, but make sure you hit it square on the head otherwise you might bend the tip. Dont use some small screwdrivers, as they break really easily (yea yea... dumb). I just bought a carpenter's plier the other day. Easy to remove the rivets when you have hit it out a little.
  6. fatwabbit
    okay, just so im getting this right, you basically are letting the bolt do all the work (sinking the t-nut teeth into the boot) by tightening the screw? i think this is a great alternative to copper Cut those teeth off the t-nuts at their base. You don't want to be trying to drive those into the insole. The would stick out the bottom of some soles just by their length, and they can fracture the outsole. The sharp edges from cutting them off is plenty of grip. Yup, you have to cut them off, or bend them off... the only reason i was using the screw to do the work was the hole i drilled was just the right size. My hands dont have the dexterity to force the tnuts into the holes, so I used teh screw to help me pull the tnuts into the holes.
  7. fatwabbit
    what i did was this... after drilling the holes, i put a longer than much longer bolt thru the chassis into the hole, and then put the t-nut onto the bolt. Screw the bolt down, so that it 'locates' the t-nut, as well as drawing it into the hole. then remove the longer bolt, and then fix with the actual bolt. An extra step, but makes it easier since i have wierd hands that cannot contortionate to get way into the boot. make sure you just lightly tighten the bolts, so that you can make minor adjustments. Once confirmed, then screw everything down tight.
  8. fatwabbit
    Just had these done in the last few days. Takes me longer due to the lack of proper tools, visiting relatives and nagging wife (resolution: Pray for more patience). These are my backup skates, so i havent put any bearings... just wanted to see what they looked like with the all yellow scheme. Had some extra washers installed at the back to create a little heel lift. Chassis installed with Tnuts and screws. You'll notice that I didnt fill in the existing holes either... couldnt be bothered as epoxy is pretty expensive around here.
  9. fatwabbit
    You can get it mounted at home if you wanted to... read this thread or the sprung thread...
  10. fatwabbit
    On the sprungs, the wheels will definitely extend beyond the front and toe cap...
  11. fatwabbit
    Yup... played on skates that have Tnuts, and they work really well. Good thing about it is that if you decide to change again, you can just swap out the chassis by removing the tnuts and screws.
  12. fatwabbit
    thats just disgustingly sick... good job with the mount. it looks spot on. Did you use t nuts?
  13. fatwabbit
    Konki's are hilo arent they? If they are then its (Front to back) 72-72-80-80
  14. fatwabbit
    I think it looks small due to the worn wheels. Give it some time, and I think it will be sweet.
  15. fatwabbit
    Hey Aussie, how much does the mount job cost in Melbourne? They dont really do it here in perth, and if they do they use countersunk screws.
  16. fatwabbit
    You need a gf first ;) hahaha.... good one
  17. fatwabbit
    Yea I do... but at the moment they are down the pecking order as I just got some OPS. You interested? ;) let me know as I need to trim down the herd a little. This, coming from just two shafts a few years ago...
  18. fatwabbit
    Finally got all my sticks together... still have one Mission team comp, but thats a few thousand miles away at mom and dad's... All 85-90 flex, except for one Mission M2 (100flex) and the Inno 1100 (260)
  19. fatwabbit
    +1 waiting for the A7
  20. fatwabbit
    stock, I'm the only one that wears sprungs here in Perth (or I think I'm the only one). Everyone else plays with stock skates and gear and wont try anything 'customed' I must say that from the start, these have been great. I've never been the fastest, most agile or best skater, but the sprungs have given me a lot more confidence. I've had 3 alu chassis dented before, and skates didnt really fit very well. Keith (Sprungster) suggested that I try the Torspos deal that he has, and although the skate doesnt look as 'flash' as some others, I must say that they are solidly built, and the baking was pretty easy. Heel lock has been fantastic, my heels really lock into the skate. The sprungs work really well for me, I can stop much better, and turning is good too. I cant stop on a dime like some guys I know, but it has improved a lot since I've been on Hilos (and vanguards). Am now thinking of whether I should get rid of my wicked skates, or have the chassis swapped with sprungs.
  21. fatwabbit
    Drew, any chance to sell the purple gloves?
  22. fatwabbit
    hey gee, what size are those skates
  23. fatwabbit
    I've tried both the alu and MG chassis, and it really doesnt make a difference. At the end of the shift, I'm still out of breath and flopping onto the bench. The weight difference is minute, its mainly the dent resistance of the MG over the alu. That being said, MG is more prone to brittle fracture compared to the more ductile alu... lay man terms, MG stiff, alu not as stiff.
  24. fatwabbit
    jeezz.... i'm buying a blues jersey...
  25. fatwabbit
    ok, thanks... the same type of paint would cost about $15 a can here at Bunnings... got some leftover paint from the time i sprayed my cage, maybe I'll do that again for the chassis.
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