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shoot_the_goalie

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Everything posted by shoot_the_goalie

  1. shoot_the_goalie
    Yes. You can contact True directly (via phone or e-mail) and request to purchase different tongues. I think they're around $80 USD for a pair?
  2. shoot_the_goalie
    What OTG28 said... you'd be surprised how many holders on skates have slight deformities.
  3. shoot_the_goalie
    You don't need to necessarily take out the red insole. You can cut out the part where you are having arch pain. There's a video of SVH doing this.
  4. shoot_the_goalie
    I didn't like the feel of pushing the tongue forward into the toe cap more, thus why I use Powerfeet. The fit was good before Powerfeet, but I like to feel compression on top of my toes... prevents me from curling my toes in my skate (which used to be a bad habit)
  5. shoot_the_goalie
    I use wax laces with no problem on my Trues. If you have minor heel slippage, contact True for some of the toe cap inserts that they sometimes use. Also, using Powerfeet can help. You may want to mess around with insole combo too - using red and blue, etc.
  6. shoot_the_goalie
    1) Stores charge for baking skates cause they ideally want you to buy the skates from them. That's why if you buy from them, baking is usually free. I bought my Trues from Pure Hockey, and since they have me in their records, to this day (they're 2 year old skates), they've never charged me for a bake, rivet repair, eyelet repair, etc. My previous skates I bought from Pure, and those too, they never charged for bakes, punching/stretching. 2) Again, it's at your own risk, but with a convection oven, the heat dynamics are much different than a regular oven. 3) Absolutely recommend a shoe horn so your liner doesn't slip. 4) If you're going to do the shrink wrap method, it is really helpful to have another set of hands to help you. Just watch the True Academy video, and you can see why.
  7. shoot_the_goalie
    I believe the True Academy videos are more recent than the How To videos.
  8. shoot_the_goalie
  9. shoot_the_goalie
    To be safe, follow this, but in my experience, Trues typically need to be in the oven a bit longer to get ideal malleability. I also had each skate baked separately. Also, remember, convection is a lot different than your standard heat.
  10. shoot_the_goalie
    Yeah...just rebake and compression wrap again...
  11. shoot_the_goalie
    Amazin. As always...great great stuff! I think you’re now at the skill level where we can say “keep your head up!”. It’s a compliment to you that your feet and hands are good enough to start focusing on keeping your head up and working on that aspect of the game.
  12. shoot_the_goalie
    It does. Looks like it was an original part, since it matches the hex shape.
  13. shoot_the_goalie
    My tendon rivets popped out again. They were not flared as SkateWorks had previously suggested. Anyway, I ended up taking a helmet screw bolt and the bolt seat from old SB 4.0+ holder screws and was able to attach the tendon guards on that way. Looks good, sits pretty flush, and holding well now after a few skates. Had to open the tendon guard screw holes a tiny bit to accommodate the bolt seat, but nothing that harmed the integrity of the parts. Didn't use Loctite, but if they start to loosen, I'll probably add when re-tightening.
  14. shoot_the_goalie
    I have no idea how my rivets popped off, and quite frankly was very surprised that both of them failed around the same time. One completely popped out and the other, the rivet was still in place, but the burr had popped off. I wear shins over tongues, but do not put my socks over the tendon guard, nor do I tape/lace around the tendon guard, so I imagine I put very little stress on them. I also am very careful not to pull on the tendon guard when handling the skates, taking them off, etc.
  15. shoot_the_goalie
    The closest place I trust with skate repair is 35 mins away, and I have a handheld rivet gun which would work for this issue. With that said, I had time today to go to the shop and they put new copper rivets in at no charge (I bought the skates there). But if a simple issue like this arises again, I would rather not have to drive an hour round trip for a 10 min fix that I can most likely do myself. Not to mention, the guy who does skate repair there, isn't always there. Guy also told me that they've had a bunch of people needing rivets replaced on the True tendon guards, so I wouldn't be surprised if this were to happen again down the line.
  16. shoot_the_goalie
    Cool. Do you know the type and size of rivet I should use?
  17. shoot_the_goalie
    Both of my tendon guards lost their rivets tonight. I'm assuming it's a pretty simple fix to put a new rivet back in there so looking to DIY it using a handheld rivet gun. Does anyone know the type and size of the copper rivet that is used at the tendon? Anything else I should be aware of if DIY?
  18. shoot_the_goalie
    It's been found that pointing the skate toe-right when facing the machine gives better coverage when sharpening the toe of the skate.
  19. shoot_the_goalie
    Wow. $30. That's pricey. Step, sells rubber honing stones for about $13. In fairness, the Step stones are much smaller than these.
  20. shoot_the_goalie
    Those skate graphics kinda remind me of the Micron Mega 10-90's of yesteryear. (with the white plastic "power" clips)
  21. shoot_the_goalie
    Well, mine is a X01, but regardless, I agree with you. Most people would never be able to tell the quality difference from which machine you sharpen (if sharpens are done properly). And for me, the speed, ease, & convenience of the Sparx outweighs the negligible improved sharpening quality on the Blackstone.
  22. shoot_the_goalie
    I still find that I produce better sharpens with my Blackstone, but I'm almost fully converted to my Sparx now for just the sheer convenience factor (sharpening multiple skates in the house).
  23. shoot_the_goalie
    Actually, from what I've seen and heard, VH skates had many more issues with the tracing method, cause there was much more room for error. I know a few guys who's VH skates were too big cause they screwed up the trace. Some of those guys, then got Trues and are so much more happier with fit.
  24. shoot_the_goalie
    I do not adjust the pitch knob very often. Pretty rare actually. However, I do remember needing to do it on a skate which I suspected either the blade or the holder was misaligned.
  25. shoot_the_goalie
    I’ve spoken directly to Blackstone about the pitch knob and they themselves say there are times where it is inevitable that you have to move the pitch knob, even when the machine is operating properly. They do suggest you adjust it as infrequently as possible though. In my personal experience I have had to adjust the pitch knob in the past depending on skate and holder alignment.
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