krisdrum

Nice. I am in 535's. Great heel lock, but the pronation is very evident. I had the heel of the holders shimmed, which has helped re-align the balance point, but I am still having issues with my left (weak side) foot. I've started doing exercises to strengthen all those little muscles to help build strength and re-alignment, but who knows how long that will take before I see a change for the better.

Which CCM were you coming from that needed the Stable 26?

Sure. Found this one the most complete and helpful. But there are a few others that were useful or had some unique tips. Basically replacing rivets with t-nuts and bolts.

Yep, size is right. Toes feather. Same length as my old Vapor EEs. Boots are a touch longer than my Graf, which have a slightly tighter fit in the toes. I am almost positive my lack of heel lock is more a function of where my heel is narrow not matching up with where the Makos can be molded. Hence seeing if maybe the D width could provide better heel dimensions. Outside of using an ankle booty, I think I have explored and tried all options. I'd rather not use one if I don't have to. And I don't have to in the Grafs. Of course the Grafs expose my ankle weakness and pronation issues. So neither right now is a silver bullet to make me skate like McDavid. ;)

Thanks. I was looking at bunga pads or the ezeefits. But decided to switch back to my Grafs (much narrower heel, great heel lock). The Grafs fit great, but they have exposed significant weaknesses in my technique and mechanics that stiffer boots minimize. I'm trying to work through that, but progress is slow and frustrating. Maybe that is just what it needs to be. Not sure how I feel about adding a pad to help me get a better fit. Maybe that is silly and short-sighted. But that is why I am asking the question as a last ditch effort. Either I get the heel to lock in these, or they are going on the block. Food for thought I guess. Need to make a decision.

Thanks. No dice. Done that. Still too wide. Ultimately the carbon area is too wide.

Mako peeps. Last ditch effort. Anyone have a well informed answer to the difference in heel width between the D and EE skates? I bought EE as I need the space up front, problem is I have a super narrow heel. The boot fits great everywhere, but the heel is too wide. With how flexible the boots are during the baking process, I'm wondering if it makes sense to try a D to get a narrower heel and hope/assume the boot will accommodate my wider forefoot once baked. Thoughts?

I'm in the same boat, have no intent of playing competitive roller hockey at this point. Just need more stick/puck/skating time. I'm in the midst of a conversion currently. Been doing it on and off for the last week or so. The process has been really easy and straight forward. I watched a few YouTube videos to get a sense of the process. Bought a used pair of inlines off ebay that had the right sized chassis and wheels, boots didn't fit, so separated them and discarded. Chassis is an older HiLo with some decent indoor wheels. Removed the holders from an old pair of beat up skates I had acquired that I knew fit pretty well. Bought all the screws and nuts to re-assemble. Marked up the boot sole, drilled the holes and I'm in the process of assembly. I've invested maybe $70 and my time to get to this point. Should have them done this week.

Check out the last video on page 7 of this thread. Same dude. WAY different!

Hopefully by now you've realized that video is 2 years old and Mr. Mets has progressed significantly in that time.

Mako sizing should be equal to Bauer sizing. I'm in a 5 in both brands. If memory serves, CCM is 1/2 size bigger than Bauer in most skates of equal length. Agree with IP, I'd go down 1/2 a size.

Ask UPS store if they have "ski boxes". Depending on how many sticks you are shipping, it might be a good option. More than likely going to get nailed with an "oversize" upcharge, so might not make a difference if you can find a smaller box.

Mine click now and then as well. I've tightened the steels also. I'd be interested if anyone has any insight as well. As for the difference, I don't recall there being much. M8s have a hard plastic metatarsal guard on the tongue. Oh and I think a full carbon chassis, versus carbon and fibreglass. For me, there wasn't enough of a difference to justify spending more. But I am a beginner, so feel free to take that with a grain of salt.

I've got a Jofa that my brother in law gave me when I first started skating a few years back. Love the way that thing fits. Nothing else I've tried has come close. I've considered throwing a cage on it.

Yep, VH is definitely on my radar, not that I need new skates any time soon, fingers crossed. And I would need to get WAY better before I could justify that expense. Are the Super Tacks and Jetspeed FT1 going to have the same moldability and minimal negative space fit parameters? I have really weird feet that have been a bear to fit in just about anything on the market. So keeping up with this kind of tech in skates will be important to me going forward. I just started skating about 2 years ago, so finding boots that fit has been a long frustrating process on top of learning the balance and mechanics. I tried the current Jetspeeds on (forget which model, mid-bottom of the line probably) and barely got them laced up before I wanted to rip them off my feet. Super uncomfortable.

I'm actually kicking myself for not getting on the bandwagon sooner. By far the best fitting, most comfortable skate I have found in my short skating career. Sad to see them going the way of the Dodo. Hopefully mine hold up for awhile.

Quick update. Still no movement on the hard carbon in the heel. But I was able to further adjust fit in the heel, just above the hard carbon. My left heel is pretty narrow coming up into the Achilles. So I still had more play and less heel lock than I wanted after a few skates in them. Last night, took the heat gun out, took the tendon guard off (key for getting to the area I wanted movement in). and was able to really nicely pinch in the very back of the heel area above the carbon heel cup. Hopefully will skate on them this weekend, but my quick step in post adjustment and cooling is feeling very promising. It may need a bit more tweaking on the sides of my heel, but I am purposefully making small adjustments step by step. So far, unlike the above poster who is breaking up with his Makos, these are the best skates I have found in fit for my wacky feet. Add the incredible thermo-forming abilities and I am one happy camper. After only a few sessions I am feeling way more comfortable and competent in these than I ever did after a year in my Grafs and very close to the same feeling I had after over a year in my Vapors. Granted, I learned alot with those previous skates that I am sure is carrying over to the Makos, but to my delight, the transition has been a real pleasure.

Mike, I've switched skates (from Grafs to Easton Makos) and the pair I have are too thick. Tried them last night (they do have the shim adhered) and my toes felt really cramped. Any suggestion on modifying the pair I have? Can I get the shim off without doing damage to the insert? Or do I need to open my wallet? I did like them quite a bit in my Grafs, so am assuming the Makos will have the same favorable results.

Sorry, just seeing this. Was away for the holidays and didn't even get a chance to skate in these until this week. I was not able to get the hard carbon area to move for me, at least not that I could tell, whether with a heat gun or re-bake. It sure as heck gets hot though, ouch! In the heel I was able to get the upper, just above the hard carbon to come in for me, and although the jury is still out, I think that addresses my fit needs. I skated with them yesterday for an hour and then re-baked the left skate last night using compression bandages and some clamps to get them as conformed as possible. I'd already spot heated the right skate and compressioned/clamped the heel in them a few weeks back. If the arch is too high for you, pretty sure you can heat it (from the inside and outside of the boot) and push it out with the butt-end of a screwdriver or thumbs. There is a video out there from Easton showing this method. Might be worth giving it a shot.

Yep, thanks. I've done that method with other skates. Was trying the subtle approach first this time around. We'll see tonight how it worked out.

Quick report back... results largely untested. I did my work last night with my foot out of the boot. I was mostly focusing heat on the carbon lower heel section and just above where the reinforcement band runs around the upper heel before angling down towards the sole. Heated them for probably about 5-8 minutes per boot. The carbon section was super hot so grabbed a dish towel to protect my hands. Interlaced my fingers and used my palms to squeeze the heel in. I could feel it giving a bit. Certainly not the play-doh feel of the upper after a full bake, but it did soften. The upper heel band area softened more in comparison. Squeezed and massaged for a good 5 minutes or so and then set aside once it had started to cool a decent amount. Unfortunately by the time I got through both boots it was pretty late, so I put them aside for a bit. Did slip one boot on as I was getting ready for bed, but I was barefoot, so not an accurate sense. But based on that quick slip on and tie, I think I managed to get them to come in a bit. Will give them a full try-on tonight with socks after work to assess just how much things changed. Depending on those results, will figure out if I need to get a bit more aggressive with the heatgun and a clamp.

Good to know. I'm going to try it first just hands and see where that takes me. Appreciate all the sage advice.

Yeah, agree. My assessment last night was going 1/2 size down would be too tight. Thanks for the video. Have never done that method, so will give it a look. I've used clamps PLENTY to help narrow things. I have a super narrow heel and wide forefoot for the length of my foot, so it is pretty normal for me to need to either stretch the forefoot or clamp the heel as NO ONE makes a last that matches up exactly with my foot. I plan to spot heat the heels with a heat gun tonight. Hope to not use a clamp as I've seen it do damage. Hoping with how moldable these get with heat, I can get away with some good palm pressure or simple pinching. We shall see how realistic that is. Fingers crossed.

Pen/pencil test done. Able to get the pen all the way down, but with some effort and it was held there with slightly uncomfortable pressure. No play front to back except the flex of the pen shaft itself. Came back out with a bit of effort. And that was with toes firmly against the front of the boot. Paid a bit more attention to feathering the toe cap once laced up tonight, and standing straight, I am just barely touching. Bend knees and it pulls me right back. Overall width is good, wore them for about 30 minutes around the house, standing and move with no real discomfort. Heel is a bit too wide, and the pocket is a bit too high, so will give it a bit of heat gun and massage tomorrow to see if I can narrow it a bit. Even with that, the heel is pretty well locked in, so I don't think it will take much to sure that up a bit more. I don't want to jump to conclusions, but things are continuing to look positive. A/Bed them with my Grafs and those feel like boats by comparison. Big and clunky and excessive. The Grafs have amazing heel lock, but that is their MO and I've worked with them a bit to get them there. The rest of the boot is not nearly as comfortable or form fitting and feels less supportive, especially up around the ankle.

Cool, thanks. Makes sense. Agree, my old Vapors had a much narrower non-anatomical toe cap. So I bet you are right on actual length not being different between the Mako and the Vapor. Just feels different because of the design. I'll try the pen test tonight. Assuming something like a standard Bic/Papermate or similar is the circumference we are talking about. About as thick as a standard #2 pencil if it were round. And I assume I should be going down the inside of the tendon guard at the peak of the heel. The width is spot on. The EE is definitely the right choice there. Nice wrap, minimal negative space along the entire length of the foot up into the toebox, pretty consistent and sufficient distance eyelet to eyelet once tied. The only question is length.