DamnLocust

I guess it's about time I added to this thread. centering pass for an assist looking for the open man playing some D

I've seen a pair of mission non-mg chassis on a synergy boot. I'm pretty sure it was a lower end frame. Thus, other mission frames may work.

keep an eye on ebay and you can find some good deals on frames. you could also go the route of buying a full skate to pull the frame off of. Most shops can do the conversion. Sports Plus in Ridgewood, Queens will definitely do it. they also have a proshop in Iceland Rink in New Hyde Park where they may be able to do the conversion as well. I believe the PLay it Again in Carle place can also do it. Should run you somewhere around $40-50.

Item for review: Warrior AK-27 Nipple Grip shaft, 100 flex Use: Outdoor roller hockey on asphalt 2-3 times per week; paired with NBH ONE40 blade in a PM9 pattern. Stick is at full retail length (48")plus retains its 3" wooden plug. Other Standard Shafts used (all for inline; 100 flex unless noted otherwise): Easton Cyclone 95 flex x2 (most recent) Mission Dangler 10-7 (90 flex)x2, Grip Lite, Ultra Lite, various broken/flipped OPS. Recent sticks/combos used on ice (also 2-3x/week): Bauer Vapor XX (PM9), Mission fuel grip shaft+RBK 6k blade (Modano), TPS Adrenaline (Tkachuk) Background/First impressions: I had been thinking about picking up an AK-27 shaft since they first came out, but couldn't justify spending the cash on it for roller hockey since I no longer play in roller leagues. I did have a dolomite and was impressed with the performance, so i wanted to give this one a go. The nipple grip version of the AK came out and I fell in love with the look of it, and eventually found it in my hands at the LHS, so I forked over the cash and walked out with a smile on my face. Weight/Balance: It's not the lightest shaft I've used, but it certainly feels light, due to the excellent balance with the ONE40 blade in it. It actually felt almost too light to use for roller hockey. I may step up to the ONE60 blades for the next batch, but I don't know if it's worth the extra $10 per just to get shredded on the asphalt. 10/10 Flex/Shooting There have been countless topics on the flex of Warriors compared to Eastons. This one feels to be a hair shy of 100 flex- somewhere in the 90-95 flex range. I think it's due to the lower engineered kickpoint of the shaft. Speaking of that lower kickpoint, man does it work. This thing has one of the quickest releases I've experienced. Wristers and snappers fly off the blade and are usually on-target. Slappers are about where they were with my cyclone- perhaps a bit less velocity. I was very impressed with it from the get-go. I thought that maybe it was just my excitement over having a new piece of gear, but I let a friend take a few shots and he agreed. (10/10) Playability: Of course the blade has a lot to do with handling/feel, but I have no complaints in this department. Again, the balance of the combo is very good, and that equates to a very nimble stick for me, which makes it easy for me to catch passes as well as put the puck wherever I want to put it. There's no dead weight on the stick whatsoever. It actually plays a lot like my OPS/Tapered combos that I use for ice. (10/10) Nipple Grip: One of the main reasons I did this review was to talk a bit about the Nipple Grip. I was intrigued by the idea since I first heard about it, and had some questions about it before I was able to get my hands on one. So basically it's a very light tactile grip zone (runs from about 6" down from the top to the midway point of the shaft) that looks like fish scales. The tactile grip is smaller and less noticeable than that of the ONE90. In addition, there is a light spray grip treatment to the entire shaft. I've gone back and forth on grip shafts and recently had been staying away, but the grip on this one is so light that I decided to give it a go. Within 2 times playing with the shaft, the spray grip was already peeling. At this point (after about 2 1/2 months) almost all of the grip in the area that my lower hand goes is gone. The tactile grip, however, remains intact. Long story short, if you like a very grippy stick, this one probably isn't for you. If you generally don't play with grip, you may be able to get away with it. One complaint that I've gotten from users of the regular ak27 (who don't use grip sticks) was that it was too slick for them, and they had to candy cane them. (8/10) Intangibles: Since I only play pickup roller with this stick, it doesn't take too much abuse, but it's taken its whacks here and there. One complaint I do have is that the paint chips off fairly easily. If the lower portion of the stick were not painted black, it would look one hot mess. I had similar issues with my dolomite, so I was half expecting this. At least it doesn't flake off like an SL or z bubble. The only other issue I've really had was the the NBH blades seem to fit a bit loose in the shaft, but it's nothing a little extra glue doesn't fix. (8/10) Overall: Despite the somewhat high pricetag, I'm very satisfied with the stick's performance and would buy it again. The grip peeling is a non-issue for me, but I'm sure it's something others would have a problem with. The nipplegrip was a bit of a letdown as well, as it's really not noticeable in play- but then again, that may be a good thing. I'd like to try a ONE90 stick or shaft to see how that tactile grip compares. I'm considering picking up a composite blade (probably an ak-27) and trying the stick for ice for a bit to see how it performs on that side of things. If I do, I'll be sure to update this. (9/10)- A solid shaft, with a couple of minor issues.

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index...showtopic=30568

Do the fuel pants still have the leg length adjustability that was on the L-series pants? have you had a chance to try them yet? any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

I've never used a Draper. I've tried other sakic clones (about a year ago) and although I can stickhandle well enough and catch most passes, all of my shots were going high over the net. There was a lot more tape wear on the heel than usual (even 5 lies are a bit too high for me) I sold the stick and am sticking with my modano clones.

it's the same on the ultras. another teammate has G5 Ultras.

Lots of guys have thrown the hum'er frame on different boots. Most use a dremel (rotary tool) to carve a little channel in the outsole of the boot as necessary for the wheels to fit. Can do it on just about any skate, But I don't know how the ONE90s would hold up to that.

for the record, that outsole has made its way onto the 7 series skates as well. One teammate has it on his 703s, another on his 735s. They switched to it fairly recently, as far as i can tell.

it's the lighting plus it doesn't have the blue logo on it.

I thought XXVs replace the XIX which replaced the XXs?

chadd are you on newcougar.org? I drive a '92 Cougar and am on a different forum mostly dedicated to the older ones, but have seen references to that site, and seems like a good resource if you run into any trouble. From what I've heard there seems there have been a number of electrical issues with those cars, but I agree, they're pretty solid. For a few bucks less you can also get a focus, which is built on the same platform.

'06 Draper 5 lie is a 5.5. Again, I don't know if they've changed anything for '07, I haven't seen any of the stuff.

Both the Probe and ZX2 rely heavily on Mazda parts, which are among the pricier of the japanese manufacturers when it comes to parts. My brother had a probe, and was quoted $180+ for a tiny aluminum coolant crossover. He was able to work his way around it. I will agree that they are fun cars to drive, however. The Audi/Subaru are both just asking for trouble, considering the AWD and turbocharged engines. I'll stick to my guns and say that for longetivity, you want to stick with your lap trio.

Them White gloves look familiar. Nice little setup you got going there, did u build it yourself? edit: nvm, I read the caption. good thinking

Even if you've got mechanic friends, or are good with your hands yourself, the cost of parts on a beemer or other german car are killer. Want bang for you buck and a car that's reliable and cheap to maintain? It's all about Japanese cars. Honda, Toyota, Nissan is the way to go. Mitsu and Mazda motors get tired after around 80k, and start to burn/leak oil all over the place.

If the 4 lie fedorov is the same as last year (and I'm betting that it is,) it matches up to a forsberg. It's listed as a 4.5 lie on the pattern database, but it's more like a 4.85, and such a small difference that I don't notice it at all on the ice.

If you've got a dolo2, you can flip it the same way as a busted 2 piece and put a standard blade up on top. There's a guy at my drop in who's using a flipped CCM v8.0 shaft with a ONE60 wood blade. When I told him about the tapered blades it was supposed to take, he looked at me funny.

You could always save up some money and buy it from them. Talk to them about it first, and see what they think about the idea. Doing this will show them that you can be responsible, and you'll also be buying a car with a known history.

I'm gonna change my vote to Marc. It's about time that another Ranger gets his name on a curve. :D I knew Eric used easton sticks and was in easton gloves for some time, that's why my guess was for Jordan. It doesn't matter, the curve is still the same anyhow.

So which Staal brother gets his name on the P91A? Jordan, I suppose.

the 18s are on par with the 10s in terms of construction and materials used. there is no replacement skate for the flexlite 12, which was made with different materials.

the ones who dye their holders mostly use RIT dye. Word on the street is that the dye may weaken the holders a tad. others use spraypaint, but that chips fairly easily. As far as going from black to white, dye won't work, you'll need to paint it somehow. perhaps White-out? (I'm not even kidding)

RIT dye is your best bet. You can spraypaint them as well, but it WILL chip.