Too Old

No, since it's a relatively small area where I used them. Only on the lettering/logo/white stripe at the edge on the back.

Bingo! Got brave and did what I wanted to do after thinking about it for 10 minutes, lol. Perfect color match. Permanent yellow on the lettering and logo and also blacked out the white stripe along the back of the gloves.

I lucked out and got mine for $150. Otherwise it seems everyone sells them retail at $175-$200.

Got 'em this morning. All I can say is WOW! I was happy with my Graf G700's but these take it to a new level. Colors match my Graf G3's too. :D

Retail Crosby at top along with 5 pro stocks. A pair of Jon Filewich's, a Ryan Shannon, one marked Harvard, and one unmarked.

Bleh. That's kinda slow I think. :P Here's what I wheeled for a few seasons in the mid/late '90's. Ran into the 6's with a little 388" small block and a conservative tuneup on it: Still have this too but need to update to the new 17" front wheels/tires and do some chassis updates to be legal again. Went as quick as a 7.16 @ 191 back in late '91 with a 458" big block making 1053 hp. New little small block is only going to be around 700 hp: Here's what happened first time out on a good track... before we put the wheelie bar on (and took off the wing which actually slowed the car down), lol:

Simple fix for that. Get some of the special brown anti-rust paper they wrap car parts/etc with. Wrap around the bottom of the blades and then put the soakers on to hold the paper in place. No more rust.

No, I just happened to have a fair amount of 3.25" stuff around. I have a couple other cranks, and one large journal offset ground down to small journal size for a 3.34" stroke. That ends up at 341" with a 4.030" bore size. Plus, I am using a production 350 4-bolt high tin block so I am leery of pushing much past 680-700hp with it. The mains become the weak point as you get around that area. I'd go with a Bowtie or aftermarket block if I did much more for an engine. With a mild 331" I ran into the 8.20's in my dragster and this one should get me to 7.90's or 8-flat most likely. Not real crazy compared to some other folks or even how I've run with other (big block stuff) engines in the car. I've gone 7.16 @ 191+ with a 1053hp 458" big block in it. It's just too expensive to keep something like that around anymore!

Lets see now. SBC, probably a stroker because no one builds them with a stock stroke any more. Aluminum heads (only cheap guys like me still run iron), belt driven distributor, electric water pump, vacuum pump (must be a big cam and lots of compression), dual carb tunnel ram with provision for 2 stages of nitrous, 1 & 3/4" headers (thermally coated of course). This all means I'm drooling and really jealous and probably about 850-900 hp on gas alone and then up to 1000-1100 with both stages of nitrous. Am I close? Lol... not even close! It's a 4.030" bore and 3.250" stroke... tiny little 331". Just shy of 700hp. Have not used spray, but the option is there to plumb it if desired. Headers are 1 7/8"-2" steps with 3 1/2" merged collectors. The ones shown are for sale, I have a nicer set of Performance Welding ones to use in the same size but they weigh a lot less. Both sets are coated by Nitroplate (I'm a dealer for them). Heads are Canfields with titanium intake/exhaust valves, and Jesel (I'm a dealer) rocker shaft system hiding under Moroso sheet metal valve covers. Jesel distributor on a Comp Cams belt drive. Cam isn't real big but is right for the combo; 276/284 @ .050" with just shy of .700" on the intake and .630" on the exhaust, with Crower roller lifters, tapered pushrods, Isky 9945 springs and Manley titanium retainers. Right at 14:1 for compression with Arias pistons and Manley aluminum rods. Stef's (dealer) oil pan with a Weaver Bros external single-stage wet sump oil pump setup. Moroso vacuum pump with a Star Machine relief valve, Meziere water pump. Hogan's sheet metal intake with a pair of Quick Fuel gas 750's. Leave with a 7" 6800 or a 7" 7200 converter in a lightweight Powerglide (I build those too) with aluminum high gear hub/drum, aluminum gear carrier mated to a Vasco steel output shaft, Stef's sheet metal pan, aluminum transbrake valve body, etc. I'd love to build a 15-degree headed engine that would get me to that 800-850hp point but at this time I don't run enough to warrant the expense. This deal comparitively is cheap if you look at many store-bought $20-30K engines out there. This one I did all myself with the exception of some machine work, the balancing, and the final head port work. I did one cylinder for port work (intake/exhaust/valve job/chamber) and then had a friend in KS finish them up for me in trade for a trans build he needed done. He has the computerized flow bench/etc to do the job right. He didn't open my first port up much and still gained 5 cfm on the intake side with good velocity numbers. Oh... if you liked this engine you'd have loved the little 388" Rodeck small block I had in an alky funny car which I drove/tuned some years ago. We had to detune it with a smaller superchager/less overdrive/smaller fuel pump/less timing/lower shift points/less leave rpm to run the local midwest circuit back then. We had a small block running against mainly big block Chevies and a couple Hemi engines. After a run we checked springs/valve lash/checked the oil filter screen/added alky to the tank/filled the block and heads with water and scratched our heads, lol. They hated us as the one season we ran all events I won/runner-upped at all but 2 races. They were happy to see me step out of the car for family time reasons during the season after that! :)

Will have to find some and post. It's a 232" dragster that's been sitting since I parked it over 10 yrs ago, ouch. Family has come before my racing. Engine is ready to dyno, I have the new transmission done along with a pair of torque converters to test, and need to do some chassis updates to the car yet. Would like to get out yet this season if possible, but it's not the end of the world if I don't. Between work, the little one and her activities (she mountain bikes in the summer and skates in the winter... and the school stuff too), and my building race transmissions I have very little time to work on the race car. I try to sneak in a few runs each year in friend's cars. Went a 7.53/178 in 2007 and a 7.29/185 last year in a Mopar-powered dragster. Same guy is tipping the can and going to run 10-15% nitro in it this year in hopes of going 6.80's. He went a 7.09 late last season in Gimli so it's likely the nitro will do the trick. You can usually run 15% with no worries if the fuel system is jetted properly. He runs alcohol and a single injector on a cast aluminum intake with his 588" engine pushing 1100 hp or so. My deal is a tiny little 331" that I hope makes at or just shy of 700 hp.

New engine... ready for the dyno (photo taken before newer headers were bought). Unfortunately it's for the race car and not the daily driver, lol. :D

Got all of them here now...

:)

Well, after another week on the 100/75 Step runners I've come to the conclusion it's just too much bite for me without any doubt. Chatters like crazy on stops and turns. It's only gotten worse as time's gone by as I've picked up the pace somewhat, albeit slowly, lol. I've made the decision to send them in and get a 100/50 on them, and bought another set of Step with a 100/50 too. I'll keep the original set of Cobra runners and have them done locally in a 1/2" ROH. That way I'll have a beater set that can be sharpened here locally if needed.

Thanks for the info! Actually I'd think the 'feel' may be better with wood vs composite, even with enhanced foam core techniques they claim are in the retail 10K at least? And if the blade breaks then a replacement wood one will feel very similar then too I'd believe.

Should find out for sure by Wednesday when they'll be in my hands. I was told composite though and the RBK info on their site shows the blades as composite in the retail 10K sticks. Or are they wood with a composite overlay in the Pro Stock version?

Comp

Got 3 of these due to arrive this coming week: And also ditched the gaudy silver lettering on the heel and tongues on my custom G3's. Got brave and used silicone spray lube on a towel... the silver came right off and didn't cause any damage to the surface. Before/after pics:

Agree 110% with this. And what's even more bizarre is that I switched runners for a public skate yesterday and the fresh 100/75 set felt horrible for some reason vs. the old 100/75 I believed was due for a tune-up. I am considering a 90/75 or 100/50 after being on the 100/75 as it sometimes feels like I have too much bite. Since I play today I wanted to find a local to do a 5/8" ROH to get me by for a game but nobody around here is much interested it seems. It sucks to only have 1 LHS that is open at sporadic times (not even at the times they even post on their door/never return calls). So, the older runners are going back on for now and I'll probably send both sets in tomorrow for a 90/75 or 100/50 and pray they're back by Saturday.

Probably could swap mine out in a minute too. Only takes a flat screwdriver and out they come on my G3's. Very simple to do.

I went to a local Scheel's sporting goods store and bought a couple (one for home; one for the gear bag) Arkansas stones from the knife department and a bottle of Lansky honing oil. Worked like a charm.

Same thing I mentioned a week ago. Made a big difference for me as well. I held off putting the spare FBV-cut steel in for now after just using a stone. Before the stone I ran my fingernail down towards the bottom of each blade and could feel a small 'lip'. A couple easy passes with an Arkansas stone and it was gone. Didn't lose an edge at all after that. I plan to go into my 3rd game with them like this and evaluate afterwards. Not sure if I can make it through the next 3 or 4 weeks without changing them out, but I'd like to try it if possible.

The best part is I bought another pair of runners. So, I can just pull them out and send them off to be done again, and have a fresh set to skate on right away. I wonder if the FBV sharpening lends itself to rolling over the edges more than a normal ROH since it's such a distinctly sharp edge? I didn't notice this on the previous 7/16" I was on. But I can live with it seeing how much better the skating is on the FBV.

After three drop-in games (clock runs for 75 minutes) and maybe five 1.5-2 hour public skate sessions with the daughter I found that it seemed I was loosing the edge at times. Running my fingernail down each side of the blades I could just barely pick up a spot at the bottom. So I used a stone similar to the Miraclestone and made about 3 or 4 passes down each side of the blades. Night and day difference; the edge is there again. I'd imagine that it's time to swap out the blades for the spare 100/75 set that I got and send these in for a sharpening.

Eventually it will be the standard sharpening. ;)