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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble


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Everything posted by Sniper9

  1. Possibly. Mine have been baked quite a few times too. I'm also only 160-165 lbs
  2. I haven't broken one speed plate and I use the 1.0. I think they fixed the brittle issue after they rolled them out and realized there was a defect.
  3. Wrong skates or pronation issue. When you have pronation issues your arch will collapse in the skates when you hear weight on that foot.. it'll throw that Skate off and make it feel "sloppy" regardless how good the heel lock is. One way to test it is by sitting with your skates on Tied up. Lean forward on one skate so the knee bends and heel pushed back into the heel pocket of the skates. Hole the skate down and try to lift your heel up. If you have little to no heel lift the lock is fine. Now walk around, if you get heel slip then it might be pronation issue. Or something else going on with biomechanics. Mind you, walking in skates and skating are completely different positions. So use the walking guideline as just a guideline.
  4. U need a heat gun to spot heat it. But be careful. Go on YouTube and look up mlx skates and you'll find a few modification videos for the arch and I think heel as well. You'll get s good idea on how to spot heat the skates by looking at the mlx videos.
  5. The increased heel pocket is to allow more forward bend. The further the heel sits in the pocket the more forward you are in terms of knee bend. I have a feeling it has to do with how you are scanned. If you are scanned with TOO much forward flex , then technically the heel pocket could be created too deep. I think this is where training their fitters/scanners properly is key and doesn't seem like true is really doing this. If u think about it if they create a last from a scan where the player is too flexed forward, Itll create a boot that doesn't resemble a players proper stance. Conversely if they create a boot off a scan where the player isn't flexed far enough it'll create a boot that's restrictive in the forward flex position and too neutral, causing a heel pocket that's too shallow and potentially restriction forward flex. When I first transitioned to from my old Bauer supreme one100s to the Trues it took me some adjustment in terms of how they fit. The Bauer's were pretty locked. The trues were more comfortable and I felt they performed better but I did feel like they were more roomier. Not sure if it's bc of the padding being thicker. But as the padding did pack slightly, it def felt more locked in. I do recommend a second bake after about a month or two of skating though after the padding settles. Either way if you aren't happy and believe there is a fit issue outside what I described, then you should bring it up, but if you are having a skate remade you should def have your feet rescanned to eliminate that aspect as being the problem. When you do your knee bend you really need to make sure your knees are centred over your feet and not leaning onward causing probation/flat foot, or to the outside causing supination / higher arch. Lastly your knees should not go past your toes during the bend.
  6. I find The Bauer cut resistant socks actually the best in terms of grip so ya there's definitely something wrong. Maybe you should play with the tongue to see if it'll fix the toe box issue. All the toe boxes are the same as those aren't custom but they merely just go over the carbo. That is made for your foot... I mentioned before the for is quite different than other brands like Bauer any CCM and part of it is the way the heel fits. There's def more room in the Trues but it shouldn't be sloppy while skating. Did they rescan your foot for the remake?
  7. Totally sucks. But did you try moving the tongue lower to remove more toebox space? For me that removed s significant amount of space but that only takes away the height not width. I found the clarino liner pretty slippery when wet. If you're using a really thin dri fit type sock that adds to the problem. When. I use regular Hanes cotton socks the trip is much better and slipping is pretty much non existent.
  8. Probably double the price too lol. I have three gen 1 SPs and one gen 2 stocked up. Haven't had any issues with cracking with the Gen 1s so far so they should last me a little while
  9. Measuring sticks against the wall isn't accurate as some blade patterns are shorter/longer than others. Measure from the actual base of the blade where it contacts the ice I use a p28 and I measure it from the top to the base in the exact same spot on ally sticks and when standing up against the wall they differ slightly in height between brands.
  10. You shouldn't need stable socks for a custom skate otherwise they weren't made properly for you. It's been discussed in this thread regarding how the true skates may feel a bit more roomier in the heel as the pocket is deeper to allow a deeper knee bend. The clamp will only help is the heel pocket is too wide. Did u heat mould using the stretch wrap technique? If not, I would do that first as that method really eliminates every ounce of negative space.
  11. I used them when they first started out and was the most durable sticks I've ever used. But it's been a long time and many models since their original Savoy special, which they still sell. Imo though the prices have gone up and although still sub 300 Canadian, I rather get last year model of say warrior or true at s large discount. Mind you my pattern is a p28 and 65-70 flex so it's not hard to come by retail wise. When I did use base I went with the hossa pro which was a very fun blade.
  12. +1 speedplates are the best insoles imo. Really locks the fit that much more. I even use them in my trues. And I can't imagine using anything else for retail skates.
  13. I think it was s mistake to have made the holder taller and steel shorter just to save weight. Having steel that short really kills the potential to have them profiled more than once and really decreases the lifespan. Ya, they give you two hit that just means profiling two sets. If I'm gonna order another pair of Trues, I'd stick with the CCM holders anyways.
  14. From the pics I've seen the black steel he had is def taller and not because it hasn't been profiled. U can see the blacksteel he has is slightly different in that the hole in the rear hook is even smaller.
  15. Shouldn't be the speed plates. Did you try them on with the stick foot beds?
  16. The wick liner actually looks nice. Might go that route next. Also nice to see that they raised the height on the steel. I wonder who is gonna be making steel from them here on in. I hope it's tydan..
  17. Did u ask why? They're pretty quick at responding on IG.
  18. I really hope those are retails.. actually. Regardless... Wtf
  19. Why don't u just try doing it yourself. Chances are bc of the long bake times , the adhesives get loose/ melt a bit. It happens. So it may not necessarily be a qc thing as pre bake it could've been stuck pretty good. Honestly I wouldn't bother paying someone to do it and just get some flexible adhesive and do it myself. Or even loctite gel super glue. I know true used to recommend using the loctite super glue for liner issues.
  20. Ya that's worse than I thought. The area on the upper cuff part. Is the stitching still in tact? If so you can just use loctite or similar product. Or even shoe glue. Something flexible is prob best. As for the rubber trim, looks like it wasn't laid properly and is almost lifting bc it should be stretched out more. Possibly Remove the tendon guard and shorten the strip and put the tendon guard back on... Which isn't as much work as it sounds. Interesting how it doesn't look like they used the bead of epoxy to seal the rubber and the carbon together.
  21. I never need to disinfect my stuff when I promptly air dry it after every use
  22. If it's just glue I wouldn't waste my time to have it shipped out and shipped back. I'd just glue it myself
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