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cougarscaptain87

Custom Skates / Ice to Inline Conversion

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@PinkApe: did you grab an x7.0 or X7.0? I made my initial transition from x3.0 to x:60 (which is the same as the x7.0), and I was amazed (so much better cornering and stops, plus a sh*tload of protection). Since then I advise people to start with x5.0 (or x4.0 if budget is really that big an issue) or similar (meaning the same level), they really are worth the increased price.

Regarding re-enforcing CF for skates, iirc some people here did outsole repair using sheets of CF, most likely even in this thread.

Regarding fixing CF sticks: there are some companies that offer broken OPS repair, but iirc all of the use some material that goes inside the shaft with some kind of "glue" (pardon my ignorance) to re-establish stability. Just putting some layers of CF to the outside most likely won't be enough.

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What kind of damage is going on with your skates? And why 12K? Most CF found in the soles of skates is 3K I believe. Also, what kind of resin would you use with the CF?

As for the X7.0, they are a great skate. Can't go wrong with them!

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selling two boots if anyone is interested. One had a marsblade on prior - I put the tuuk back on for now, but if you are a 7.5D, fit supremes, and want a good pair of boots to convert they are for sale.

Also have a pair of 8.0D Mission Axiom T9's that I removed the hilo from. If you are interested in either boot let me know.

Here is the for sale listing: http://modsquadhockey.com/forums/index.php/topic/66575-supreme-one8-size-75d-mission-axiom-t9-80d-just-boot-warrior-project-girdle-shells/

Heres the supreme (when they had the marsblades on):

xMYrcHb.jpg

Here are the missions:

t06y8BO.jpg

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Guys thanks for the response - sorry I slept on mine..studying for some exams now so it is kind of hard with time. Thank you all for replying - see my comments below:

@PinkApe: did you grab an x7.0 or X7.0? I made my initial transition from x3.0 to x:60 (which is the same as the x7.0), and I was amazed (so much better cornering and stops, plus a sh*tload of protection). Since then I advise people to start with x5.0 (or x4.0 if budget is really that big an issue) or similar (meaning the same level), they really are worth the increased price.

Regarding re-enforcing CF for skates, iirc some people here did outsole repair using sheets of CF, most likely even in this thread.
Regarding fixing CF sticks: there are some companies that offer broken OPS repair, but iirc all of the use some material that goes inside the shaft with some kind of "glue" (pardon my ignorance) to re-establish stability. Just putting some layers of CF to the outside most likely won't be enough.

The skates are Bauer Vapor X7.0. That other part you are referring to is foam core. It is the same element used inside the hockey stick blade and most other composite designs - from marine to aerospace. It essentially serves to offset weight and provide density and deflection when placed in between two sheets of CF.. In english it adds durability and reduces weight. The glue you refer to is resin / epoxy in simplest terms it is JB weld and is pretty much that - glue.

Yes you are right slapping a few layers of CF onto a broken shaft would barely do the stick justice; some math would come into play and one would want to bring the shaft back to the same flex and kick points. Very doable and I will try it when I have some more free time to read into it.

What I did find out was that it is very possible to use CF or Aramid (Kevlar) in the onset of the sticks life to reinforce it to potentially prevent breakage and that the graphics can be easily changed..easily as in the guy who sees nothing wrong with taking apart a perfectly pair of ice hockey skates and drilling it full of holes to turn them into inline hockey skates.. if you are a DIY it can be done. So the effect would be a bad ass twig.

What kind of damage is going on with your skates? And why 12K? Most CF found in the soles of skates is 3K I believe. Also, what kind of resin would you use with the CF?

As for the X7.0, they are a great skate. Can't go wrong with them!

The skates were bought used to begin with so the ankle padding is mushed in, eyelets, stitching. I am most likely going to restore them for practice and hobby. I locked down the foam that can be used (antimicrobial / moisture retardant). , Eyeles are easy, and as for the leather around the eyelets.. the one used now is some cheap faux leather.. I will not have an issue finding something dope to cut out and stitch.. Alligator? Would deff be some pimp ass skates.

12K because I felt it would be tough and if I was to line the skate boot it would deff be 3K ..but skate boots are made from a thermoplastic it is not CF ..I believe.

All this talk makes me want to makes me want to make a stick.. or at least mod one up to be on steroids...

Personally if the skate was that compromised I would just replace with one that isn't.

And here comes the reality of the situation... you are right.. but for hobby and learning a new skill it would be a perfect candidate.

if you guys are bored / interested there are a few good sites that explain composites in english; www.compositesworld.com ( has a few awesome articles about how Bauer makes its sticks and skates) and http://www.talkcomposites.com/ - which is a DIY forum for CF etc.

Signing off boys...


selling two boots if anyone is interested. One had a marsblade on prior - I put the tuuk back on for now, but if you are a 7.5D, fit supremes, and want a good pair of boots to convert they are for sale.

Also have a pair of 8.0D Mission Axiom T9's that I removed the hilo from. If you are interested in either boot let me know.

Here is the for sale listing: http://modsquadhockey.com/forums/index.php/topic/66575-supreme-one8-size-75d-mission-axiom-t9-80d-just-boot-warrior-project-girdle-shells/

Heres the supreme (when they had the marsblades on):

xMYrcHb.jpg

Here are the missions:

t06y8BO.jpg

Didn't you just put the Marsblades on...?

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Got myself a brand new pair of CCM u+12 skates for 50€ (~70$) on clearance, and I was really surprised on how well they heat-mold. Now I'm not so sure if I'm going to convert them (the outsole isn't carbon composite as on the CL) or try them on the ice first.....first-world-problems ;)

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Guys got a weird one that I can not figure it out. I am using a Bauer hilo chassis. I put it on several pairs of skates (drilled holes in the x5.0s last night after all :) and the wheels will not touch the surface evenly - I highlighted in red which wheels will not touch - 1) right boot: 76x76x80x80 2) left boot 76x76x80x80.

This happened to both the x3.0 and the 5.0 - I am using the same axles and spacers on both boots and the wheels are not moving unevenly placed in the chassis. It is definitely the way the frame is attached to the boot because when I take it off it stands fine on the surface.

Shims and Lifts until it straightens out evenly?


Got myself a brand new pair of CCM u+12 skates for 50€ (~70$) on clearance, and I was really surprised on how well they heat-mold. Now I'm not so sure if I'm going to convert them (the outsole isn't carbon composite as on the CL) or try them on the ice first.....first-world-problems ;)

total first world problems.. bro I do not know how you manage.. I had the same issue last night. My BMW keys were all the way in the basement so I had to take the Audi to the food market and when I got there, the market was out of organic Fruits... horrible... :)

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@pinkape yes I did, and then quickly realized how bad of a fit the supreme is on my foot. They are mounted on vapors now.

@tattoosbyjay still using it sorry.

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@pinkape yes I did, and then quickly realized how bad of a fit the supreme is on my foot. They are mounted on vapors now.

@tattoosbyjay still using it sorry.

How nice is it to be able to swap chassis / boot so easily... how are you liking it ?

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Guys got a weird one that I can not figure it out. I am using a Bauer hilo chassis. I put it on several pairs of skates (drilled holes in the x5.0s last night after all :) and the wheels will not touch the surface evenly - I highlighted in red which wheels will not touch - 1) right boot: 76x76x80x80 2) left boot 76x76x80x80.

Well, the wheels compress slightly once you put pressure (meaning weight) onto them, so all of them will be in contact with the ground, even more so if you do it on an angle. If that wasn't enough, the wear would occur at the wheels in contact, wearing them down quicker until the others start having contact. So it is more of an optical thing than a real issue I'd say, no need to shim just for that.

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Well, the wheels compress slightly once you put pressure (meaning weight) onto them, so all of them will be in contact with the ground, even more so if you do it on an angle. If that wasn't enough, the wear would occur at the wheels in contact, wearing them down quicker until the others start having contact. So it is more of an optical thing than a real issue I'd say, no need to shim just for that.

agreed - but then how come when I fit the chassis back onto its original X60R boot everything is fine and dandy? Otherwise I would say it is wear also. Driving me nuts. I will snap a few pics later.

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How nice is it to be able to swap chassis / boot so easily... how are you liking it ?

Love using the t-nut and bolt system. I know I can swap out holders and switch from roller to ice in about 20 mins if I really have to.

I use mako's for ice, but recently had to send them back for warranty because I get the mako bump/cut so badly. All I have to do is grab one of my roller blades and pop on a cxn holder and I can use those for now.

As for the marsblades, I like them a lot. Right now I actually am trying out three different roller chassis to see how they compare with each other. I was able to get vapors for cheap, so all are mounted on the same boot more or less. Im testing out marsblade, sprung, and hilo. Gonna write a post once I have a little more experience with marsblade, but so far I can tell you that they all have their strengths, and there is no "best" of the three.

Still forming a opinion, but this is what I think so far:

- Marsblade: Feels the most like ice skating, and activates the muscles you need for ice more than others (especially when loosening up the bolt). I think its better put together than sprungs, but the magnesuim hilo frame is obviously the best here. Turning is probably on par with hilo. 72mm wheels might be the reason these feel slower than others (brand new bearings always feel slow to me until I clean them the first time - this could be the reason too). Still need to test these more - Ive only used them a handful of times compared to a ton with the other two.

- Sprungs: Feel very similar to hilo, but you can tell that there is some rocker action going on. Feels a little like ice skating, but not as much as marsblade. Turning is crazy good with these because you end up with two wheels on the ground sometimes. I feel maybe slightly faster in these than hilo's. Build quality isnt that great - Parts are replaceable, but Ive had my problems with them. They also dont feel as together or as tight as the other two. There is a lot of rattling when skating. Had to add a shim to get them to feel like ice skates. Great grip with these, not sure how marsblade compares.

- hilo: Fast and tight - no worrying about any rockering mechanism. Most durable.

I think all three are very good, and serve different purposes. If you had to choose just one, I would choose marsblade if you are primarily an ice player, who does off ice training, and occasional roller hockey. If you just played roller, it would be a hard choice between sprungs and hilo. I think either would be fine, but i guess the decision would come down to personal preference.

(Again I have to mention I dont have as much experience with marsblade, so it might end up being the all around best, but for now I can pretty confidently say its the best at simulating ice skating)

Will update in a few weeks. Lemme know if anyone has any questions.

Edited by louierev07
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The skates were bought used to begin with so the ankle padding is mushed in, eyelets, stitching. I am most likely going to restore them for practice and hobby. I locked down the foam that can be used (antimicrobial / moisture retardant). , Eyeles are easy, and as for the leather around the eyelets.. the one used now is some cheap faux leather.. I will not have an issue finding something dope to cut out and stitch.. Alligator? Would deff be some pimp ass skates.

12K because I felt it would be tough and if I was to line the skate boot it would deff be 3K ..but skate boots are made from a thermoplastic it is not CF ..I believe.

All this talk makes me want to makes me want to make a stick.. or at least mod one up to be on steroids...

And here comes the reality of the situation... you are right.. but for hobby and learning a new skill it would be a perfect candidate.

Yea your skates have a thermoplastic, but skates like the APX2/MX3/etc that have a CF sole use 3K

Was just curious, as I have never worked with 12K

Alligator would be sick!!

I am the same way, you should do it just because you can. You already have a backup pair, so why not go for it?!

Post pics of the aftermath...

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Guys thanks for the response - sorry I slept on mine..studying for some exams now so it is kind of hard with time. Thank you all for replying - see my comments below:

The skates are Bauer Vapor X7.0. That other part you are referring to is foam core. It is the same element used inside the hockey stick blade and most other composite designs - from marine to aerospace. It essentially serves to offset weight and provide density and deflection when placed in between two sheets of CF.. In english it adds durability and reduces weight. The glue you refer to is resin / epoxy in simplest terms it is JB weld and is pretty much that - glue.

JB Weld is an epoxy, but not all epoxies are alike. JB weld has thickeners and fillers so it doesn't sag and run. You will need a laminating epoxy with no thickeners or fillers so it wets out the CF.

Also, most consumer epoxies have really poor heat resistance.

Bake the boot first, then add your epoxy/cf.

Yes you are right slapping a few layers of CF onto a broken shaft would barely do the stick justice; some math would come into play and one would want to bring the shaft back to the same flex and kick points. Very doable and I will try it when I have some more free time to read into it.

All this talk makes me want to makes me want to make a stick.. or at least mod one up to be on steroids...

I pulled a broken Supreme TotalONE LE stick out of the trash at the local rink and made a foam plug, wrapped CF around the plug, stuffed it inside the stick, and clamped it straight until the epoxy cured. I then sanded down the outside of the stick so the original break wasn't a clean line (more of a ramp--reduce the "stress riser") and wrapped the outside with CF, then wrapped it tightly with electrical tape.

Flex might not be PERFECT but when flexing it, it's neither a weak spot (too much bend) or a flat spot (too strong).

Figured it would be a good backup stick. It turned into my go-to stick. :)

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Yea your skates have a thermoplastic, but skates like the APX2/MX3/etc that have a CF sole use 3K

Was just curious, as I have never worked with 12K

Alligator would be sick!!

I am the same way, you should do it just because you can. You already have a backup pair, so why not go for it?!

Post pics of the aftermath...

I was googling around and found some design images of the Easton Mako Skates posted by Will Keegan on his Behance profile ( I believe he is a product designer for Easton Bell Sports) ... Thinking if I should email him and tell him I'm a hopeless and nasty gear slut who is looking to mod out my skates and he is needed on this thread .. What a sick job this guy must have especially if he plays Hockey too.. I would equate that to ummmmm... winning the lottery!?!?!?!?!?! What I wouldn't give to be a fly on the wall when new prototypes are rolled out .. Check this out - https://www.behance.net/gallery/8305497/Easton-Mako-Hockey-Skates

Guys thanks for the response - sorry I slept on mine..studying for some exams now so it is kind of hard with time. Thank you all for replying - see my comments below:

The skates are Bauer Vapor X7.0. That other part you are referring to is foam core. It is the same element used inside the hockey stick blade and most other composite designs - from marine to aerospace. It essentially serves to offset weight and provide density and deflection when placed in between two sheets of CF.. In english it adds durability and reduces weight. The glue you refer to is resin / epoxy in simplest terms it is JB weld and is pretty much that - glue.

JB Weld is an epoxy, but not all epoxies are alike. JB weld has thickeners and fillers so it doesn't sag and run. You will need a laminating epoxy with no thickeners or fillers so it wets out the CF.

Also, most consumer epoxies have really poor heat resistance.

Bake the boot first, then add your epoxy/cf.

Yes you are right slapping a few layers of CF onto a broken shaft would barely do the stick justice; some math would come into play and one would want to bring the shaft back to the same flex and kick points. Very doable and I will try it when I have some more free time to read into it.
All this talk makes me want to makes me want to make a stick.. or at least mod one up to be on steroids...
I pulled a broken Supreme TotalONE LE stick out of the trash at the local rink and made a foam plug, wrapped CF around the plug, stuffed it inside the stick, and clamped it straight until the epoxy cured. I then sanded down the outside of the stick so the original break wasn't a clean line (more of a ramp--reduce the "stress riser") and wrapped the outside with CF, then wrapped it tightly with electrical tape.

Flex might not be PERFECT but when flexing it, it's neither a weak spot (too much bend) or a flat spot (too strong).

Figured it would be a good backup stick. It turned into my go-to stick. :)

You give new meaning to the term someone's trash is another man's treasure.

What did you use as foam ?

Which K CF did you use?

What Epoxy did you use?

Why have you been hiding this from us and where are the pictures.. show it off!!!!!!!

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You give new meaning to the term someone's trash is another man's treasure.

You have absolutely no idea. If I can build it, I will!

I tore out the inner plastic mold release liner and scuffed the inside of the shaft with some 60gr sandpaper so the epoxy would have something to bond to.

What did you use as foam ?

A doubled-up piece of camping pad foam. I really only needed it to press the CF against the inside of the shaft.

I also pushed plugs of the same ethafoam into the shaft so the epoxy wouldn't run away from the CF before curing.

I cut the foam to the inside dimensions of the shaft. One piece was too thin, so I hot glued two pieces (1/2 x 1.25" x 4" long) together to get it thick enough. Wrapped that with the dry CF and then wrapped the cf with some cheapo sewing thread to compress it smaller than the hole in the shafts. I then saturated the CF and brushed some more inside the shaft and stuffed the plug in. Once it was in both halves, I snipped the thread, which unraveled and let the foam press the CF against the shaft. I clamped it straight and let it cure overnight.

The outside was easier--ground into an hourglass shape so the CF was tapered and epoxy/taped it as described above. Sanded smooth and another topcoat of epoxy.

Which K CF did you use?

I have absolutely no idea. I scrounged some scraps from the composite materials lab at my university 18 years ago.

REALLY heavy triaxial (0/45/-45) with the 0 parallel to the shaft.

What Epoxy did you use?

US Composites 635 thin epoxy with medium hardener--leftover from some boatbuilding projects.

http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html

Why have you been hiding this from us and where are the pictures.. show it off!!!!!!!

This probably deserves its own thread!
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You have absolutely no idea. If I can build it, I will!

I tore out the inner plastic mold release liner and scuffed the inside of the shaft with some 60gr sandpaper so the epoxy would have something to bond to.

A doubled-up piece of camping pad foam. I really only needed it to press the CF against the inside of the shaft.

I also pushed plugs of the same ethafoam into the shaft so the epoxy wouldn't run away from the CF before curing.

I cut the foam to the inside dimensions of the shaft. One piece was too thin, so I hot glued two pieces (1/2 x 1.25" x 4" long) together to get it thick enough. Wrapped that with the dry CF and then wrapped the cf with some cheapo sewing thread to compress it smaller than the hole in the shafts. I then saturated the CF and brushed some more inside the shaft and stuffed the plug in. Once it was in both halves, I snipped the thread, which unraveled and let the foam press the CF against the shaft. I clamped it straight and let it cure overnight.

The outside was easier--ground into an hourglass shape so the CF was tapered and epoxy/taped it as described above. Sanded smooth and another topcoat of epoxy.

I have absolutely no idea. I scrounged some scraps from the composite materials lab at my university 18 years ago.

REALLY heavy triaxial (0/45/-45) with the 0 parallel to the shaft.

US Composites 635 thin epoxy with medium hardener--leftover from some boatbuilding projects.

http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html

This probably deserves its own thread!

Yes a "DIY Repair / Restore" thread is long over due. Feel like pasting it over into a new thread and finally letting us see the pictures?

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Picked these up during the HockeyMonkey Memorial Day sale. Put a Hi-Lo Kryptonium frame on them, they feel good so far, but it seems like all of the vents in the frame make it warp a bit when loosening/tightening bolts.

lzj8qPd.jpg

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http://instagram.com/p/rzahAmw1hb/?modal=true http://instagram.com/p/tvRDhsw1vV/?modal=true I converted a pair of ccm ice hockey skates size 7 into roller blades for my son who is just over a year and a half old , here is a pic of him when he tried them on he got to his feet on his own and is standing proud! he is the reason I started playing again after taking 23 years away from the game

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