Custom Skates / Ice to Inline Conversion

[kovalchuk71 212]

No shims. Everything layed relatively flat. The holes were close though.

[althoma1 575]

Didn't have the white/orange addictions for the fronts, but oh well. They feel phenominal

They look great. I know from other threads that you used Sprungs for a few years. Why did you decide to move away from Sprungs?

I also notice that all coppers were used for the mount. Did you ask for that or did the shop decide to go that way?

In another recent thread it was suggested that ice holders not be mounted with all coppers because the copper holds the chassis tight to the boot, but the steel rivets prevent it from moving side to side. There was some debate on this, but it was suggested that a mixed copper/steel setup was best and that all copper setups could lead to bent steel. Obviously bent steel wouldn't be an issue with roller hockey skates, but I'm not sure if there would be other issues with all copper.

I'm curious myself as my current conversion has almost all coppers (8 coppers, 2 steel with Sprungs. 4 coppers at the back, followed by two more coppers at the front, 2 steel and then 2 more coppers). I didn't specifically ask for that - just provided the mounting instructions and that's what the shop chose to use.

Edited July 4, 2013 by althoma1

[kovalchuk71 212]

Honestly, I felt like I lost speed the Sprungs, so I stopped using them.

And I personally mounted them, and I just chose to use coppers for the strength. Some of the holes were really close, so I felt coppers were necessary. I have since epoxied all of the holes.

[aeriches10 3]

Graf 707's with Labeda Hum'er Chassis.

[meettheprescott 1]

Not my finest piece of photography but there are my 3 conversions. Doing a pair of Fedor Fedorov pro return grafs later this week on sprung chassis.

[althoma1 575]

Honestly, I felt like I lost speed the Sprungs, so I stopped using them.

Fair enough - I was just curious. I know the Sprungs feel much faster than the Tuuk Rockers I was previously using, but I haven't used a flat or hilo chassis in ages so I don't know how they are compared to that. I do notice that I need to use harder wheels with the sprungs vs. any chassis I've used in the past, but I'm sure you already tried various wheels.

The mount looks great and I really don't know if all coppers are an issue or not as I'm not a mounting expert. I was just curious about that because I have an almost all copper mount myself.

Edited July 5, 2013 by althoma1

[kovalchuk71 212]

Fair enough - I was just curious. I know the Sprungs feel much faster than the Tuuk Rockers I was previously using, but I haven't used a flat or hilo chassis in ages so I don't know how they are compared to that. I do notice that I need to use harder wheels with the sprungs vs. any chassis I've used in the past, but I'm sure you already tried various wheels.

The mount looks great and I really don't know if all coppers are an issue or not as I'm not a mounting expert. I was just curious about that because I have an almost all copper mount myself.

Thanks. Yeah we will see how the coppers hold up. I don't think it will be a problem though.

And yes, I had to do the same thing with Sprungs. They needed much harder wheels....

[flipadelphia 0]

Hey guys I need some help,

My Mission Boss HiLo's (72s in front and 76s in back, or maybe 76s front and 80s back, I can't remember) are about due to be replaced and my main goal is to keep the HiLo set up for balance purposes. I'm considering converting some ice skates for the lighter boot and need to know which ones can run this HiLo? I really like Reebok pumps maybe 7k, 9k, 11k, or 14k, but the problem is I heard they don't convert with HiLo's very well. I want an almost all black boot and am in the $400-$450 for the total project (might need new chassi and will need wheels).

I would just buy some inline Reeboks or Alkali CA7 or CA9, but has anyone successfully converted them to HiLo either?

Some input would really help =]

Edited July 12, 2013 by flipadelphia

[Vet88 674]

Either previously in this topic or in another thread, someone has converted CA7/9 to HiLo's. You only need to do a very minor file to the mounting holes to get the frame to fit. If you use an ice boot you are going to have to drill new mounting holes.

[kovalchuk71 212]

If you have a Bauer/Mission frame, no hole widening was even needed. Fit like a glove. I did one of the conversions for a member on here...

Either previously in this topic or in another thread, someone has converted CA7/9 to HiLo's. You only need to do a very minor file to the mounting holes to get the frame to fit. If you use an ice boot you are going to have to drill new mounting holes.

[sjs0433 15]

Do most of the frames on the market have the same hole pattern? Or are they brand specific. I've got an old set of tour skates on a 72/80 hi-lo and was wondering if I could simply switch to a vanguard 76/80 setup or even labeda all 80 chassis and not have to drill any new holes. FYI these are the really old tr9000 skate.

[sjs0433 15]

Also, what are the big potential problems if any of using a small chassis when my size skates probably need a medium? The chassis on my skates is pretty beat up and I found where I can get a red star e-frame but it looks like small is the only size available.

[in da crease 0]

Wanting to convert a pair of CCM U+ 10 to inline.

Question 1 - I'd rather not cut or dremel clearance. Will I have more success mounting a Mission Vanguard Hi/Lo or a Hummer Eviction chassis.

Question 2 - What size chassis for Size 8 CCM skate? Small or Medium?

[J03Y 2]

Hey guys I need some help,

My Mission Boss HiLo's (72s in front and 76s in back, or maybe 76s front and 80s back, I can't remember) are about due to be replaced and my main goal is to keep the HiLo set up for balance purposes. I'm considering converting some ice skates for the lighter boot and need to know which ones can run this HiLo? I really like Reebok pumps maybe 7k, 9k, 11k, or 14k, but the problem is I heard they don't convert with HiLo's very well. I want an almost all black boot and am in the $400-$450 for the total project (might need new chassi and will need wheels).

I would just buy some inline Reeboks or Alkali CA7 or CA9, but has anyone successfully converted them to HiLo either?

Some input would really help =]

I converted 14k's to Hi-Lo with no issues.

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index.php/topic/18451-custom-skates-ice-to-inline-conversion/?p=951423

[Jamie_tnt 6]

Does anyone know if I would need to dremmel the outsole to put a hummer on some x7.0? Also is there a guide for aligning hummer chassis?

[customskateworks 39]

You will notice on the outsole of the boot that there is a shallow channel (it follows the contour of the lasting). However this is typically not enough clearance. Dremeling a notch in the outsole for the second wheel is an option and will not have a significant impact on boot integrity. I prefer using 3mm poly lifts on the front and 6mm in back. Typically this gives adequate clearance (under load as well) for the second wheel. The additional height in back helps match the Vapor boot profile, and reduces stress on the boots and rivets. Guys I do them for also like the slight forward lean it gives since the Hum'er chassis sits relatively flat.

As far as alignment goes it's best to have a wheel on the front and back to center the chassis side to side. Front to back centering has some options. If you are just getting onto the Hum'er (or other all 80mm setup) chassis, many players notice its slightly difficult to "get over" the large 80mm wheel on the toe. In my humble opinion, many skate companies (that use all 80mm chassis) factory mount the chassis too far forward. I prefer to mount them a few millimeters back form center, this helps the players get over the front of the skate quicker and (I believe) allows for a more powerful stride.

[Jamie_tnt 6]

You will notice on the outsole of the boot that there is a shallow channel (it follows the contour of the lasting). However this is typically not enough clearance. Dremeling a notch in the outsole for the second wheel is an option and will not have a significant impact on boot integrity. I prefer using 3mm poly lifts on the front and 6mm in back. Typically this gives adequate clearance (under load as well) for the second wheel. The additional height in back helps match the Vapor boot profile, and reduces stress on the boots and rivets. Guys I do them for also like the slight forward lean it gives since the Hum'er chassis sits relatively flat.

As far as alignment goes it's best to have a wheel on the front and back to center the chassis side to side. Front to back centering has some options. If you are just getting onto the Hum'er (or other all 80mm setup) chassis, many players notice its slightly difficult to "get over" the large 80mm wheel on the toe. In my humble opinion, many skate companies (that use all 80mm chassis) factory mount the chassis too far forward. I prefer to mount them a few millimeters back form center, this helps the players get over the front of the skate quicker and (I believe) allows for a more powerful stride.

How would you make the lifts? What material?

Thanks for the advice.

Edited July 26, 2013 by Jamie_tnt

[customskateworks 39]

I get sheets of 3mm plastic. Trace the front and rear plates on the plastic and cut them out. I use a Dremel with a plastic cutting disk then clean them up on the cross grind wheel for a nice fit.

[winger43 0]

Has anyone heard or done s conversion to the new ccm rbz skates. Looking into these but unsure of the outsole. I have both a mission hi/lo and a labeda hum'er 2 frames sitting around. Some opinion on what you guys think would help out a lot!!

[Jamie_tnt 6]

I get sheets of 3mm plastic. Trace the front and rear plates on the plastic and cut them out. I use a Dremel with a plastic cutting disk then clean them up on the cross grind wheel for a nice fit.

Thanks again. Is there a special for type of plastic which is best? I really have no clue a out this stuff.

I take it you just double up the back.

[customskateworks 39]

Something flexible and not brittle. Avoid acrylics. And yes, double up the back.

[in da crease 0]

My A6 Sprungs have broke for the last time. I'm out of parts and can't get any more. I loved them when they worked. Not so much when they would snap. Maybe I will sell off the good parts to fund my new project: CCM U+ 10 with Mission Vanguard MAG, Bones Swiss, and Revision Variant Gold. I should have these finished up tonight and will post up a picture.

[EBondo 233]

Should have my new creation in the next 10-14 days, hopefully.

[sjs0433 15]

Has any run into issues long term with skates that don't have a composite outsole?

[romdj 26]

I have, with some x40, but that was after a year, and the most important to note is that the alignment was terrible. Other than that, none.

My advice is, don't get mid-range skates, always get top end, even it has to be from 3 years ago, and focus on how your skates are aligned and you will be a happy camper.