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BK

Lightest Shaft

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(not to go off topic) but honestly, whats the benifit of having a tapored shaft?

I am almost tempted to just get the Redlite and tossing an easton blade in it.

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  badkitty said:
(not to go off topic) but honestly, whats the benifit of having a tapored shaft?

I am almost tempted to just get the Redlite and tossing an easton blade in it.

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lower kick point, meant to be more like a ops

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They sure go for a lot more than that. My lhs was clearing them out a few weeks ago, along with the R+. Dropped the XN10 down from somewhere in the 300 cad range.

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  thejackal said:
I think it's a bit overrated. I would go for a standard shaft for the better blade selection.
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If you can't find a tapered blade that you like, either you have a very strange curve preference or you're stuck on using a particular brand.

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For me, I just can't find a LHS that carries tapered blades and if I bought it online, it would come out to $80-100 with all the S/H

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  kkancho said:
For me, I just can't find a LHS that carries tapered blades and if I bought it online, it would come out to $80-100 with all the S/H
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A lot of shops will only order stuff they like or use. Tapered shafts seem to have a tougher time in the more traditional hockey markets judging from polls we've run in the past. I don't know if I could ever go back to standard shafts, the taper shafts have made a huge difference for me.

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  Chadd said:
  kkancho said:
For me, I just can't find a LHS that carries tapered blades and if I bought it online, it would come out to $80-100 with all the S/H
Read more  

A lot of shops will only order stuff they like or use. Tapered shafts seem to have a tougher time in the more traditional hockey markets judging from polls we've run in the past. I don't know if I could ever go back to standard shafts, the taper shafts have made a huge difference for me.

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Yeah I know what you mean. After switching to the stealth, I dont know if I'll ever be able to go back. I just wish I could find tapered blades for cheap in Toronto.. =( I see some popping up on ebay once in a while but I see them going for more than some OPS :o

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  Chadd said:
  thejackal said:
I think it's a bit overrated.  I would go for a standard shaft for the better blade selection.
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If you can't find a tapered blade that you like, either you have a very strange curve preference or you're stuck on using a particular brand.

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Maybe, but all the good tapered blades cost a foot and a limb in Canada. Once in a while there are good deals on standard blades, like custom wood for $10 or graphite for $30.

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  kkancho said:
  Chadd said:
  kkancho said:
For me, I just can't find a LHS that carries tapered blades and if I bought it online, it would come out to $80-100 with all the S/H
Read more  

A lot of shops will only order stuff they like or use. Tapered shafts seem to have a tougher time in the more traditional hockey markets judging from polls we've run in the past. I don't know if I could ever go back to standard shafts, the taper shafts have made a huge difference for me.

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Yeah I know what you mean. After switching to the stealth, I dont know if I'll ever be able to go back. I just wish I could find tapered blades for cheap in Toronto.. =( I see some popping up on ebay once in a while but I see them going for more than some OPS :o

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What kind of curve do you like?

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Just anything with a moderate-deep toe or mid curve since I never take slapshots. I really liked the Sherwood Coffey and the Easton Gaborik curves.

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  kkancho said:
Just anything with a moderate-deep toe or mid curve since I never take slapshots. I really liked the Sherwood Coffey and the Easton Gaborik curves.
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TPS Sundin is a bang-on coffey, the Christian #4 is a real toe curve

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  Chadd said:
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TPS Sundin is a bang-on coffey, the Christian #4 is a real toe curve

Yeah? A_Steeves12 posted some pics of the Sundin curve and it didn't look that deep of a curve to me -- might be because it's a pro curve

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  kkancho said:
  Chadd said:

TPS Sundin is a bang-on coffey, the Christian #4 is a real toe curve

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Yeah? A_Steeves12 posted some pics of the Sundin curve and it didn't look that deep of a curve to me -- might be because it's a pro curve

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Pro and retail are very different on virtually every curve.

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  roadrunner said:
Here's the end to all this:

Tapered XN10 R2 260grams

Standard RedLite XN10 -250grams

That's it, other than the Metamorphic Flyweight.

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Tapered shafts are longer than standard shafts, that's what accounts for the "extra" weight.

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  kkancho said:
  Chadd said:
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TPS Sundin is a bang-on coffey, the Christian #4 is a real toe curve

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Yeah? A_Steeves12 posted some pics of the Sundin curve and it didn't look that deep of a curve to me -- might be because it's a pro curve

yeah the pic i posted was Sundin Pro. a guy on my team has the retail sundin and they are nothing alike.

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  Neo5370 said:
  roadrunner said:
Here's the end to all this:

Tapered XN10 R2 260grams

Standard RedLite XN10 -250grams

That's it, other than the Metamorphic Flyweight.

Read more  

Tapered shafts are longer than standard shafts, that's what accounts for the "extra" weight.

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but the blades, in a sense, are smaller so i think the "combined" weight of the taper shaft and blade should be roughly the same as a standard shaft and blade combo

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badkitty: does it really matter which tapered shaft is the lightest??? is lighter going to make you better... not really the case!!!

Chadd: you told me you can't aim anyways, so what difference does the taper really make... JK, had to give you a hard time on that one.

as for kick points, and tapered vs. non tapered: yes, a kick point can change the reaction of a shot, but in all honest, a kick point is greatly affected in where you place your lower hand. place your bottom hand higher in the shaft, you just changed the kick point... so a taper only does so much.

tapering a shaft will change the kick point yes, but this is done in many cases because the shaft is made by a sheet of composite material being wrapped around the mold to form the shaft. that sheet of comp is prewoven, and in order to change the flex, they need to taper the shaft to create that lower flex point.

a standard shaft can be wrapped as well, as many are; however, a shaft that is woven from start to finish around a mold can be modified to create flex points within the shaft. that shaft can be woven looser at certain points to allow more flex at different spots, as well as add more material in areas that are high abuse areas, making the shaft more durable.

so do just run out and buy a tapered shaft, because it has a kick point... yes it may help, but maybe not. it all really depends on your shot, and having the right mechanics of your shot is more important and more beneficial then any stick will ever be.

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I didn't want to start a new thread since it's not much different from the original question. What would you guys say is the best shooter's shaft?

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The shaft that has the right flex for you. Standard shaft, tapered shaft, woodies. If you have good mechanics it won't matter. It'll be whatever stick is the right stiffness and one that you're used to.

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go with the XN10 if i were you. i have the redlite XN10 and it's the best shaft i've used.. light as hell, built like a tank and man what a shot. you just have to play around which blade combo you want to use with it

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  prenny207 said:
badkitty: does it really matter which tapered shaft is the lightest??? is lighter going to make you better... not really the case!!!

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I just am using fairly heavy sticks right now and would like to try my hand at a lighter stick. I like the feel of a OPS but would like to invest in a shaft instead of another OPS.

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