Ultralite Shaft Users

[BK 0]

I have gone through 2 Blue ultralite blades since I bought my shaft in june. Both have gone limp on me. The only reason I bought them was because I assumed it would be the best blade for the shaft (same name right?.. guess not).

I would like to go back to wood, but if there is a carbon blade that is too perfect then I can consider that too.

[mack 44]

I used Nike/Bauer woodies or the Easton pro stock if you can find them. Innos were nice but had a tendency to cause to blow out the shafts at the insertion end.

[BK 0]

I used Nike/Bauer woodies or the Easton pro stock if you can find them.  Innos were nice but had a tendency to cause to blow out the shafts at the insertion end.

I was looking at easton woodies so I can keep my curve.

There is also a few bauer supreme 6000 down at my lhs that I was going to try out but I couldn't find a lindstrom clone :(

[splayerc12 0]

an easton st blade

[pantherfan 0]

All the people I know that use them use Easton Lami blades, they seem to hold up well but the toes seem to get damaged pretty easily.

[mack 44]

I used Nike/Bauer woodies or the Easton pro stock if you can find them.  Innos were nice but had a tendency to cause to blow out the shafts at the insertion end.

I was looking at easton woodies so I can keep my curve.

There is also a few bauer supreme 6000 down at my lhs that I was going to try out but I couldn't find a lindstrom clone :(

Bauer Pronger would be your shot, but I don't know the differences between that and a Lidstrom but they're pretty close. Maybe a Reebok Pronger woodie?

[the iceman 132]

I used to use the Innovative Larionov/Kariya blade just like that guy on the Nashville Predators (although my skill level was slightly lower than his).

[Reaper 0]

I use my Sherwood SOP 950's. I give them a light rubbing with 5 minute epoxy, allow them to dry, then sand them smooth and paint them black.

[kovalchuk71 212]

you mean you epoxy the bottom?

[jjtt99 0]

I use Easton woodies with my Ultra Light. I try to keep them going for as long as I can because I'm not a big shot kind of guy. In view of this I'm okay when they go a bit mushy, but when I can bend them a lot with my bare hands then I change.

[Reaper 0]

you mean you epoxy the bottom?

Basically, I rub the epoxy all over the blade making sure that it is well rubbed into the sections of wood without a fibreglass jacket covering the surface with the exception of the tenon (the part that fits inside the shaft). Then, I take a putty knife to it to wipe off all the excess epoxy on the high spots. Next, I clamp the tenon to my workbench and allow it to cure overnight. Following that, the next day I give the blades a light scuffing with sandpaper and then paint them. I let the paint set until the following day before taping and waxing my stick.

[kovalchuk71 212]

do they last any longer?

[Roach 0]

I have a CCM V40 (?) Recchi blade on mine. Does the trick for me.

[DamnLocust 0]

I didn't like my UL blade much - the feel wasn't very good imo. Other composite blades will give much better feel. Z Carbons are supposed to be great, overall but aren't as durable.

Don't know how well they hold up for ice, but I like Easton Pro blades for my cyclone for outdoor roller. They retain their stiffness longer than almost any other wood blade I've tried, even when they're down to toothpick sizes. The only issue I have with easton wood blades is that they're not very consistent in curve.

[cobrAA 0]

roach is right the ccm v-20/v-40 are all excellent for the $.. and for like 5$ more you should consider the v-40 over the v-20

[markthedeadhead 0]

I used Z-carbons til I went broke. Then Bauer Vapor X (cos they were a little cheaper), but they're gone. Now I use SherWood SOP(drury-ish) woodies. I go through them really fast though.

[DamnLocust 0]

there's a guy with Vapor Xs on ebay for $25 a pop. He used to sell them like hotcakes, but I think his stock is running low. Still, I saw some today... PM9 lefties. He may have more.

[Reaper 0]

do they last any longer?

I find that the blades stay stiffer and it helps to keep the square toe from chipping as easily.

[ATLstealth09 0]

The Blue Ultralite blades were pretty much crap... Thick, bad feel. Go with the Vapor X if you can find it, or Easton ST blade. Or if you don't mind switching blades often, Hockeygiant has some Nike wood blades for 4 bucks a piece... once actually went down to $2, so I guess essentially you could stock yourself for life.

[curtisobal 0]

the st blades are sweet i would recomed one of those

[Roach 0]

roach is right the ccm v-20/v-40 are all excellent for the $.. and for like 5$ more you should consider the v-40 over the v-20

Thanks, cobrAA!

The weight is perfect for me. The blade is light but not overly light that you don't feel the puck anymore. I am tempted to take a heat gun to one and mold it to my own pattern. Would you know if this can be done?

[jjtt99 0]

you mean you epoxy the bottom?

Basically, I rub the epoxy all over the blade making sure that it is well rubbed into the sections of wood without a fibreglass jacket covering the surface with the exception of the tenon (the part that fits inside the shaft). Then, I take a putty knife to it to wipe off all the excess epoxy on the high spots. Next, I clamp the tenon to my workbench and allow it to cure overnight. Following that, the next day I give the blades a light scuffing with sandpaper and then paint them. I let the paint set until the following day before taping and waxing my stick.

Holy crap! And sometimes I'm to lazy to put a fresh tape job on my blade

[Reaper 0]

I take the time so my blades will last longer. Until my endorsement contract comes through. (Sherwood usually endorses 32 year old Rec leaguers, right?)