Skate Sharpening 101

[jondrums 0]

hope this helps

yes, that's a great comparison - thank you!

I'll probably go for the Wissota, just on price since I'm only doing my own stuff and maybe a few friends.

[rachael7 1]

Is there any great trick to sharpening tapered figure skate blades? Had a woman ask me if I could do them and I said sure, no problem, but she hasn't actually come in yet. Is it just a matter of properly adjusting front and back level or is there something more to it? Obviously the holder has to be properly adjusted for the different thickness at either end of the blade, but that doesn't seem like enough of a big deal that people would worry if a shop can do them or not. Am I missing something?

[Jordan 13]

Disclaimer: I am not an expert skate sharpener.

I don't think that the taper is a big deal, if the front and back are centered, they're centered.

I can tell you a couple of important things (as my daughter is a competitive skater). Do not touch the picks with the wheel...never.

Secondly, there is a flat spot in between the picks and the beginning of the hollow. This is used in spins, and is not to be sharpened. It's tricky to get close to this spot without hitting it with the wheel. some FS sharpeners use a smaller wheel to get close to this spot with percision.

The guy who does my daughter's skates, also hits this flat spot (barely) with the gross grind wheel to keep the length and relative height of this part of the blade consistent.

I'm sure others can chime in who know more than I do about this.

[Gummer12 134]

Another thing to keep focus on, don't round off when you get to the heel like you do with hockey skates... keep the holder straight all the way off of the wheel.

[JR Boucicaut 3801]

Tapered and dovetail isn't hard to sharpen; you just have to make sure that your holder is able to hold the entire blade flat.

[mnpucker 33]

I have been sharpening family skates since I got my x-02 In January 2009. I have always had one question come to mind every time I sharpen and have never asked it. How much do you follow the blade around the front and rear of the tips of the blades? I tend to just run off the end of the blade, as if I am following the flat of the blade (I do not follow the curvature of the tip of the blade).

What is the right way to start and end a pass?

[Chadd 916]

I have been sharpening family skates since I got my x-02 In January 2009. I have always had one question come to mind every time I sharpen and have never asked it. How much do you follow the blade around the front and rear of the tips of the blades? I tend to just run off the end of the blade, as if I am following the flat of the blade (I do not follow the curvature of the tip of the blade).

What is the right way to start and end a pass?

I do pretty much the same thing, though I do go a little longer on the last pass to make sure the transition is smooth at each end.

[rachael7 1]

Tapered and dovetail isn't hard to sharpen; you just have to make sure that your holder is able to hold the entire blade flat.

Thanks, JR. I do plenty of figure skates, so I think I know the basics about toe picks, heel, etc. This kind of gets to the question though... is a regular Blademaster holder (the 2000 or whatever it is) able to hold the tapered blades ok?

[JR Boucicaut 3801]

Depends on the length. I've done parabolic on a standard holder. Paramount, however, can be quite a bitch. I've also done it but once again, depends on size.

[SAK 2]

Thanks, JR. I do plenty of figure skates, so I think I know the basics about toe picks, heel, etc. This kind of gets to the question though... is a regular Blademaster holder (the 2000 or whatever it is) able to hold the tapered blades ok?

If you can grab the posts of the blade rather than the blade you may have better luck. The issue is how to measure the edges to make sure there equal after you have sharpened them. To me this is the biggest issue with sharpening the tapered blade.

[JR Boucicaut 3801]

I've gone as far as to take a sharpie and mark the blade where I have mounted it to. That way if you have to pull it off the holder, you can remount it in the same spot. Stainless steel cleaner will clean the marks off after (you should clean/polish the blade after sharpening figures anyway if you care about your work. Makes for good presentation.)

[x-track 8]

Definitely not every skate OR every other. I don't use any honing oil, so I probably dress every five pairs, give or take.

As for your Bat Gauge, you should be trying to get your edges dead even (but be sure the black part of the gauge is even when not on a skate). If you're using the Tri-lie jig, it's about four clicks up/down per gauge line.

...great ....is this still valid with the new version of the bat gauge ??

[x-track 8]

Yes, it was me. And if you don't think the rear dial makes a difference in how the FBV comes out, viewing a casting under microscope easily shows what the various knob adjustments do to how the FBV is angled in the runner. Angle of attack of the runner should be centered and level with the FBV impression in the stone.

....how do you make sure the angle is centered ?? the holder I received , with a sticker on it ,saying not to adjust it as it is factory preset , may be centered , but according to the little calibration block that came with the machine , it is not : ....that's on a new x-02 holder !!

using the calibration block on a well used F-02 holder it's kind of the same , but due to the fact that the felt pad is a lot thinner on the left side than on the right ......so to have a " centered holder " the calibration block doesn't help much on a used holder .....it may just make sure the base plate of the holder is 100% parallel to the upper plate .....but not the table itself .

I was wondering how accurate the calibration block is .....I measured it with a special tool and will post results later , maybe others have the same or different numbers !!

[mickz 107]

I'm hoping you guys can help me figure something out again.

I am currently using a triple head machine, the BRLEG1FSF (http://blademaster.com/web/en/triple-station-machines/267-brleg1fsf.html), and it has the built in cross grind dresser. I am following the instructions in this Blademaster Youtube video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCy5GikafB4) yet I am getting really poor results. The wheel becomes concave and is unusable. This is a fairly new machine (about 4 months old) and the diamond is in good shape.

When I'm using the stand alone unit, the CGD500 (http://blademaster.com/web/en/wheel-dressing-systems/289-cgd500.html) I can dress the cross grind wheel perfectly. Is my built in cross grinder faulty or is there something more simple to fix this issue? Thanks!

[TBR 11]

... is a regular Blademaster holder (the 2000 or whatever it is) able to hold the tapered blades ok?

If you do a fair amount of figure work, including some of the more fancier blades with bevels and/or bulky two-piece setups like Paramount or Matrix, I would definitely recommend investing in a holder that clamps the upper portion of the blade/chassis nearest the plates. The Blademaster SH6500 is probably your best option but Blackstone and Wissota make less expensive and still very decent alternatives.

I actually bought a BM SH6500 with mainly doing Paramount, Matrix and Gold Seal blades in mind, but eventually found myself using it for even recreational toe pick blades because of the convenience of not having to take the skate in and out of the holder when checking for level edges. This saves a ton of time and improves the quality of your work, making it a very worthy investment.

[strosedefence34 175]

A little background first. I took a part time job at my LHS and have been sharpening skates since October. I have two questions about advanced sharpening techniques.

1) How do you change the radius of a skate blade?

2) How do you change the pitch of a skate blade? I know there is a pitch nob on the holder we use I won't ever turn it, but I was thinking about playing around with my pond hockey skates to learn more.

We have 1 guy in our shop who trained me and he is really good, but I never asked him about this because I wanted to get basic sharpening down. No one has come in and asked about these services and its more for my own curiosity.

[AfftonDad 88]

A little background first. I took a part time job at my LHS and have been sharpening skates since October. I have two questions about advanced sharpening techniques.

1) How do you change the radius of a skate blade?

2) How do you change the pitch of a skate blade? I know there is a pitch nob on the holder we use I won't ever turn it, but I was thinking about playing around with my pond hockey skates to learn more.

We have 1 guy in our shop who trained me and he is really good, but I never asked him about this because I wanted to get basic sharpening down. No one has come in and asked about these services and its more for my own curiosity.

I've never done it but I do know that 1) You need the proper equipment (which includes radius bars). 2) The pitch knob on the Tri Lie holder has NOTHING to do with the pitch of the profile. Once you understand how to do the profile though, pitch should be a relatively simple extension You can search youtube ("Blackstone shaper system" for blackstone or "Blademaster custom radius" for Blademaster) but I think you would be better off getting someone at your shop who knows how to do it to teach you.

[strosedefence34 175]

I've never done it but I do know that 1) You need the proper equipment (which includes radius bars). 2) The pitch knob on the Tri Lie holder has NOTHING to do with the pitch of the profile. Once you understand how to do the profile though, pitch should be a relatively simple extension You can search youtube ("Blackstone shaper system" for blackstone or "Blademaster custom radius" for Blademaster) but I think you would be better off getting someone at your shop who knows how to do it to teach you.

Great this was the info I was looking for. I watched the video and I am pretty sure we don't have any radius bars at the shop. We are a pretty small shop.

[strosedefence34 175]

Bumping and old thread with a new question

Any tips for when the clamp get stuck and you can't remove the skate without loosing everything and bashing the clamp off with the end of a broom. I have tried different clamps as well as different tightening on the screw on top of the holder. Any advice would be appreciated.

[Chadd 916]

Bumping and old thread with a new question

Any tips for when the clamp get stuck and you can't remove the skate without loosing everything and bashing the clamp off with the end of a broom. I have tried different clamps as well as different tightening on the screw on top of the holder. Any advice would be appreciated.

If the clamp sticks, I just loosed the screw and then tap the boot. That has always worked for me, though I have needed a second, and more firm, tap a few times.

[mickz 107]

For those of you with entry level portable machines, what recommendations do you have for a travel case? Some cases cost more than the machine itself, just wondering what alternatives there are to the cases sold by the manufacturer. Would an equipment case made for transporting music equipment suffice?

[Monty22 833]

For those of you with entry level portable machines, what recommendations do you have for a travel case? Some cases cost more than the machine itself, just wondering what alternatives there are to the cases sold by the manufacturer. Would an equipment case made for transporting music equipment suffice?

I have a Blackstone X01, and use a rubber maid bin and lid for travel. I wrap the unit in a towel and do the same with the holder.

[notquitedeadyet 13]

Would an equipment case made for transporting music equipment suffice?

Yes.

In fact I once bought a Wissotta from a guy that made music cases professionally. The case he made for that was very similar to to the factory case for my Blademaster.

[mickz 107]

I have a Blackstone X01, and use a rubber maid bin and lid for travel. I wrap the unit in a towel and do the same with the holder.

Thanks for the suggestion Monty. The unit I have is a Blademaster 850 which is three times the weight. I don't think I will be able to find a plastic tote that can support 70lbs but I've been on the hunt for a tool box that can. Do you sharpen with your machine at the rink?

Yes.

In fact I once bought a Wissotta from a guy that made music cases professionally. The case he made for that was very similar to to the factory case for my Blademaster.

Any photos of this? Is it just for transport or can you operate the machine straight out of the case?

[Mimizk 114]

Do you guys use a 8" grinding wheel until how small will it be?

I've been using SPB850. Today I checked it. The outside of the motor box reach roughly the same position as 6" mark of the grinding wheel.

So I felt that maybe it can't be used if it will be over 6.5" sign.