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bazli21

Skate Sharpening 101

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JR.... "electrical tape" Great Idea!!!

Not only metal thickness, but half the skates have mismounted holders. The ME Holder allows for minute adjustments for each skate. Using the ME square & holder is the only way to go... saves time and better finished product!!

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Rip me all you want for this, but at our store we don.t even use a squaring device, we just eye it up.  If you have done it long enough, you can tell if the edges are even just by looking down the blade.  The honest truth is...  if you can't see any uneven edges, the customer won't be able to tell.

If you are still unsure, use a quarter.

You won't see 1/1000" of an inch with your eye.

My question is, why settle for mediocrity? Not only can I visually see it is dead-on, but I can turn around and show the customer that it is dead-on.

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I always liked showing it to the customer, makes them happy and shows them what they are looking for. Gives them confidence in your work. Some don't care, others do, but it can't hurt. As long as you do it everytime.

Radio - My sharpening at Nationals was fairly decent this time, I was a little worried because the blade was hotter than I like and the kid didn't look great, but he did a better job than most shops are here. Was the SFS at HU? I haven't been there in years, but heard they are very much hit and miss.

Oldtrainerguy - Are you guys using anything to check squareness?

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Rip me all you want for this, but at our store we don.t even use a squaring device, we just eye it up.

Just curious, is that how you check your own skates? No squaring device, no nothing?

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Rip me all you want for this, but at our store we don.t even use a squaring device, we just eye it up.  If you have done it long enough, you can tell if the edges are even just by looking down the blade.  The honest truth is...  if you can't see any uneven edges, the customer won't be able to tell.

If you are still unsure, use a quarter.

You won't see 1/1000" of an inch with your eye.

My question is, why settle for mediocrity? Not only can I visually see it is dead-on, but I can turn around and show the customer that it is dead-on.

JR, I agree with you. After you told me about the Max Edge, I bought it and have been extremely happy with the purchase. It takes the guesswork out of sharpening, and why settle for imperfect?

Bunana3, I agree with you too, though, that if you can't see it players don't notice. I sharpened with my wissota for a few months before getting the Max Edge and no one ever complained - not even me. It was only after I got the Max Edge that I found out my edges were off...

The M-E is an important tool to use if you are sharpening multiple pairs of skates, imho. It would probably take me twice as long to sharpen 10 pairs of skates if I was trying to eyeball it.

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Rip me all you want for this, but at our store we don.t even use a squaring device, we just eye it up. 

Just curious, is that how you check your own skates? No squaring device, no nothing?

That's how I used to do mine, for customers I liked to show them how good I was/am.

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I always liked showing it to the customer, makes them happy and shows them what they are looking for. Gives them confidence in your work. Some don't care, others do, but it can't hurt. As long as you do it everytime.

Radio - My sharpening at Nationals was fairly decent this time, I was a little worried because the blade was hotter than I like and the kid didn't look great, but he did a better job than most shops are here. Was the SFS at HU? I haven't been there in years, but heard they are very much hit and miss.

Oldtrainerguy - Are you guys using anything to check squareness?

Thats a trick question right?

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Rip me all you want for this, but at our store we don.t even use a squaring device, we just eye it up. If you have done it long enough, you can tell if the edges are even just by looking down the blade. The honest truth is... if you can't see any uneven edges, the customer won't be able to tell.

If you are still unsure, use a quarter.

None of us that sharpen wont rip on you we just wont send anyone your way.....LOL. But honestly the guy I worked with at the old place used to say the same thing and he still looks at them from time to time...but why do 10 pairs of skates an hour when you can do 30 and have them all better than the ten?

10 X $5 = $50

30 X $5 = $150

Max-Edge Pro Square Pricless ........

PS helps if you have the holder to go with it.

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so - quick square vs pro square...tri-lie vs SH6000, etc...who uses what, what's best?

also, any idea how much the BM SH6000 and pro-square cost? i tried requesting quotes from their website but it wasn't working.

i'm hoping to convince the boss to shell out for it - but i'm seriously considering getting it even if i gotta pay outta my own pocket.

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Quick Square and Pro Square are the same. They are now calling it Pro Square.

Tri-Lie is $495. 6000 is what, $700? I've used both (well, M-E Icon, but the 6000 has better components), and you can't beat the Tri-Lie at that price.

I bought my own Quick Square about 4 years ago. Cost me about $130.

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Is it me or does the blackstone equipment (eg riviter tools, holders etc) look the same as the blademaster products.

Are they the same company trading under different names?

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What is it about these holders (BM 6000 and ME TriLie) that make them that much better than the traditional holder?

How does it work that it requires less frequent adjustments than a traditional holder?

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What is it about these holders (BM 6000 and ME TriLie) that make them that much better than the traditional holder?

How does it work that it requires less frequent adjustments than a traditional holder?

Actually Blackstone Tri-Lie. The BM6000 used to be the M-E Icon.

What makes it different is that the guesswork of adjusting the holder on the fly is eliminated. Also, no more calibration issues - even if you drop it, it stays the same.

Every click will be half a line on the squaring device. So, if you sharpen and you see that you are a line off, two clicks and you're done. No more doing it "by feel."

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Very easy. Get it square and sharpen away. You usually make adjustments depending on the blade thickness and the hollow, but it's so easy - goal is about 3 clicks down from player, and figure 4.

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What is it about these holders (BM 6000 and ME TriLie) that make them that much better than the traditional holder?

How does it work that it requires less frequent adjustments than a traditional holder?

Actually Blackstone Tri-Lie. The BM6000 used to be the M-E Icon.

What makes it different is that the guesswork of adjusting the holder on the fly is eliminated. Also, no more calibration issues - even if you drop it, it stays the same.

Every click will be half a line on the squaring device. So, if you sharpen and you see that you are a line off, two clicks and you're done. No more doing it "by feel."

I can see where the pre-calculated clicks would be way better than the wissota dial. Fortunately I do have the "feel" down but clicks would be easier. I don't think I'm going to replace my wissota though!

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What is it about these holders (BM 6000 and ME TriLie) that make them that much better than the traditional holder?

How does it work that it requires less frequent adjustments than a traditional holder?

Actually Blackstone Tri-Lie. The BM6000 used to be the M-E Icon.

What makes it different is that the guesswork of adjusting the holder on the fly is eliminated. Also, no more calibration issues - even if you drop it, it stays the same.

Every click will be half a line on the squaring device. So, if you sharpen and you see that you are a line off, two clicks and you're done. No more doing it "by feel."

I can see where the pre-calculated clicks would be way better than the wissota dial. Fortunately I do have the "feel" down but clicks would be easier. I don't think I'm going to replace my wissota though!

Both holders are may more solid and when they are clamped in there is no movement at all. I dont know that Wissota one but I do know these 2 are far superior to anything else I have used.

I understand there are changes coming as well so thet there will be even more clicks so even if your just slightly off you can adjust that as well.

Along with the Pro Level from BM you get far superior edges. IMO

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The wissota holder is pretty solid. The only thing that could change is the forward/backward tilt of the faceplate (to change the angle of attack on the wheel), but even that is relatively solid. It is a spring loaded dial so it does take some pressure to move it, but it would probably get off if you dropped it. The cams and rest of the unit would not. They lock down pretty damned tight.

The skate blade is solid once you lock it in place.

The dial is the only thing that you can move at will once the wissota holder is set up.

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