One95 OPS to tapered shaft

[tml67 0]

Has anyone converted a One95 OPS to a tapered shaft? Where do you cut the broken OPS to get a precise snug fit? Any fitting issues?

I don't believe the One95 blade comes in the tapered system...correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks.

[sm326 0]

if it has a fuse point you can do it the right way and cut it at that spot then drill out the foam. you also need to chisel out the left over hosel from the blade the shaft was fused to when the one piece was created. takes some time and work but will create a true tapered shaft instead of the shorter ones that people create just by cutting them. ive done it with a synergy sl, tps xn10, tps r8, nbh xxxlite, warrior dolomite, original synergy, synergy grip (yellow), sherwood stick (forgetting the model but it was copper and gold) and a few more im forgetting.

[Bammers 0]

I thought the One95 was a true OPS, so it didn't have a fuse point...

[Jarick 5]

There was a cut down One95 on eBay a while back, I had my eye on it but not for the $30+ it went for.

I haven't studied the stick too closely, but I can't see why it wouldn't work. The taper seems normal, you'd just have to cut from just above the blade little by little until a tapered blade fits.

[cptjeff 0]

And of course, If you stuck with bauer for the blade, you would have an X60 blade in a one 95 shaft, which would confuse some people.

Worth a shot I would think.

[tml67 0]

And of course, If you stuck with bauer for the blade, you would have an X60 blade in a one 95 shaft, which would confuse some people.

Worth a shot I would think.

Is the X60 blade available yet? Will it be in the tapered format?

[Jarick 5]

No and I'd have to believe so.

The Vapor XXXX blade isn't bad at all, a little hard feeling (reminds me of the feeling of a marble bouncing).

[porky45 1]

Has anyone converted a One95 OPS to a tapered shaft? Where do you cut the broken OPS to get a precise snug fit? Any fitting issues?

I don't believe the One95 blade comes in the tapered system...correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks.

I'm wondering the same thing. My blade split in half on my one95 shaft. it is a tru onepiece shaft so there is no fuse point. Where do we cut?

of course you could cut little by little, but it's nice to just have an answer.

[ramensandwich 1]

i cut my broken one90 right around the infinity symbol (monocomp technology logo). Then i shaved down the tenon of a standard blade on my bench grinder and put it right in. however a tapered blade would most likely have fit perfectly.

[jbyun04 7]

You can do it. I have one with a Vector 10 blade in it but don't ask me how ;)

[ginseng 0]

It seems like the taper comes up high on the shaft, I'm wondering how much above the blade you'd have to cut. I'd like to see how much length I'm giving up before i go ahead and start hacking away. Also if anyone's just flipped their ONE95, I'd like to know how the stick feels

[cptjeff 0]

Flipping is never a good idea. Cutting and then a plug will give you better feel and performance.

And with the guy above who shaved down a standard blade, it will be at that logo or lower. I would guess lower.

Just start at the bottom and cut up little by little. It doesn't take that long.

[raganblink 82]

Flipping is never a good idea. Cutting and then a plug will give you better feel and performance.

enjoy having the blade or shaft less than a month then. the whole point of converting a ops to a 2piece is so you don't spend another 200 dollars... durabilty is the answer not performance. if you want performance go buy another topend stick.

if you flip the stick the blade will be snug throughout the entire blade. if you pt a tapered blade in the tapered stick, the end of the hosel will be loose beacuse it isn't a uniform taper the entire way through. think of it as a standard system going like: |_| the tapered system is like: \_/. not that extreme, but if the blade can fit in the bottom, it will be loose at the top.

so much easier and more durable to flip the stick. if you want to go through the hassel with the tapered blade go for it, but the standard blade in the butt end will last longer.

[$m0k3 0]

So converting it to a tapered shaft after the blade breaks is a good idea or not?

Will there be loss in performance? or will it just be minor?

[cptjeff 0]

Flipping is never a good idea. Cutting and then a plug will give you better feel and performance.

enjoy having the blade or shaft less than a month then. the whole point of converting a ops to a 2piece is so you don't spend another 200 dollars... durabilty is the answer not performance. if you want performance go buy another topend stick.

if you flip the stick the blade will be snug throughout the entire blade. if you pt a tapered blade in the tapered stick, the end of the hosel will be loose beacuse it isn't a uniform taper the entire way through. think of it as a standard system going like: |_| the tapered system is like: \_/. not that extreme, but if the blade can fit in the bottom, it will be loose at the top.

so much easier and more durable to flip the stick. if you want to go through the hassel with the tapered blade go for it, but the standard blade in the butt end will last longer.

Except that I routinely use sticks cut at the taper and have for a while now with the same stick. Never had one break. I've replaced the blade a few times, and the feel is almost indistinguishable from the corresponding OPS.

I'm not talking out of my ass here- I've done this quite a bit, and as a result of the durability have a few spare unused shafts sitting around at home. Want one? SE grips. It'll be a while until I'm back home on break though, you would have to wait a while. I've also got a bunch of older synergy models, most of those are 100 flex.

Also, shafts are also often thinner on the tops to save weight, which hurts the durability. And you WILL loose pretty much any performance benefits the stick may have had.

[raganblink 82]

Flipping is never a good idea. Cutting and then a plug will give you better feel and performance.

enjoy having the blade or shaft less than a month then. the whole point of converting a ops to a 2piece is so you don't spend another 200 dollars... durabilty is the answer not performance. if you want performance go buy another topend stick.

if you flip the stick the blade will be snug throughout the entire blade. if you pt a tapered blade in the tapered stick, the end of the hosel will be loose beacuse it isn't a uniform taper the entire way through. think of it as a standard system going like: |_| the tapered system is like: \_/. not that extreme, but if the blade can fit in the bottom, it will be loose at the top.

so much easier and more durable to flip the stick. if you want to go through the hassel with the tapered blade go for it, but the standard blade in the butt end will last longer.

Except that I routinely use sticks cut at the taper and have for a while now with the same stick. Never had one break. I've replaced the blade a few times, and the feel is almost indistinguishable from the corresponding OPS.

I'm not talking out of my ass here- I've done this quite a bit, and as a result of the durability have a few spare unused shafts sitting around at home. Want one? SE grips. It'll be a while until I'm back home on break though, you would have to wait a while. I've also got a bunch of older synergy models, most of those are 100 flex.

Also, shafts are also often thinner on the tops to save weight, which hurts the durability. And you WILL loose pretty much any performance benefits the stick may have had.

Every kid that comes into the shop and says "So i bought this tapered blade and put it in the shaft (tapered part where blade broke) comes in about 2 weeks later and either the shaft is broken or the blade is broken within 6 inches of the blade. Everytime they come in and want us to put a blade in the buttend, it lasts months. IDK if they don't know how to do it around here correctly, but, there is never any durabilitiy when it comes to tapered blades. If you're saying you're getting good results with it, then by all means continue doing it. And if it works for others great, just saying i see those break 10 times faster than a buttend blade.

[Chadd 916]

I've seen guys use the tapered end of a broken OPS for years.

[Hockeyman11385 1]

I can't believe that the taper of the broken stick is drastic enough to have the top of the blade tenon be noticeably looser.

[HattrickSwayze 3]

I turned one of my One95's into a tapered shaft. I had to cut to about 3-4" below the Nike swoosh/Bauer wordmark before my tapered blade would fit in it. To get it back to the length I wanted, I had to put about a 6" wood plug in it. The shaft was an 87 flex, but feels quite a bit softer now. Still performs OK though. I just started by the fuse point (I could see it on my pro stock one) and continued to keep cutting up and up and up until I could fit a blade in.

[cptjeff 0]

Flipping is never a good idea. Cutting and then a plug will give you better feel and performance.

enjoy having the blade or shaft less than a month then. the whole point of converting a ops to a 2piece is so you don't spend another 200 dollars... durabilty is the answer not performance. if you want performance go buy another topend stick.

if you flip the stick the blade will be snug throughout the entire blade. if you pt a tapered blade in the tapered stick, the end of the hosel will be loose beacuse it isn't a uniform taper the entire way through. think of it as a standard system going like: |_| the tapered system is like: \_/. not that extreme, but if the blade can fit in the bottom, it will be loose at the top.

so much easier and more durable to flip the stick. if you want to go through the hassel with the tapered blade go for it, but the standard blade in the butt end will last longer.

Except that I routinely use sticks cut at the taper and have for a while now with the same stick. Never had one break. I've replaced the blade a few times, and the feel is almost indistinguishable from the corresponding OPS.

I'm not talking out of my ass here- I've done this quite a bit, and as a result of the durability have a few spare unused shafts sitting around at home. Want one? SE grips. It'll be a while until I'm back home on break though, you would have to wait a while. I've also got a bunch of older synergy models, most of those are 100 flex.

Also, shafts are also often thinner on the tops to save weight, which hurts the durability. And you WILL loose pretty much any performance benefits the stick may have had.

Every kid that comes into the shop and says "So i bought this tapered blade and put it in the shaft (tapered part where blade broke) comes in about 2 weeks later and either the shaft is broken or the blade is broken within 6 inches of the blade. Everytime they come in and want us to put a blade in the buttend, it lasts months. IDK if they don't know how to do it around here correctly, but, there is never any durabilitiy when it comes to tapered blades. If you're saying you're getting good results with it, then by all means continue doing it. And if it works for others great, just saying i see those break 10 times faster than a buttend blade.

I'm going to say they're doing it wrong. Did you notice what shafts they were doing it with? that could have an effect too. I also wonder if they were thinning the shaft walls instead of cutting up more or trying to remove the tenon, which would have that exact effect you're describing of the tapered end being destroyed.

If you're doing it properly what you get is pretty much identical to a store bought tapered shaft.

[sm326 0]

Flipping is never a good idea. Cutting and then a plug will give you better feel and performance.

enjoy having the blade or shaft less than a month then. the whole point of converting a ops to a 2piece is so you don't spend another 200 dollars... durabilty is the answer not performance. if you want performance go buy another topend stick.

if you flip the stick the blade will be snug throughout the entire blade. if you pt a tapered blade in the tapered stick, the end of the hosel will be loose beacuse it isn't a uniform taper the entire way through. think of it as a standard system going like: |_| the tapered system is like: \_/. not that extreme, but if the blade can fit in the bottom, it will be loose at the top.

so much easier and more durable to flip the stick. if you want to go through the hassel with the tapered blade go for it, but the standard blade in the butt end will last longer.

Except that I routinely use sticks cut at the taper and have for a while now with the same stick. Never had one break. I've replaced the blade a few times, and the feel is almost indistinguishable from the corresponding OPS.

I'm not talking out of my ass here- I've done this quite a bit, and as a result of the durability have a few spare unused shafts sitting around at home. Want one? SE grips. It'll be a while until I'm back home on break though, you would have to wait a while. I've also got a bunch of older synergy models, most of those are 100 flex.

Also, shafts are also often thinner on the tops to save weight, which hurts the durability. And you WILL loose pretty much any performance benefits the stick may have had.

Every kid that comes into the shop and says "So i bought this tapered blade and put it in the shaft (tapered part where blade broke) comes in about 2 weeks later and either the shaft is broken or the blade is broken within 6 inches of the blade. Everytime they come in and want us to put a blade in the buttend, it lasts months. IDK if they don't know how to do it around here correctly, but, there is never any durabilitiy when it comes to tapered blades. If you're saying you're getting good results with it, then by all means continue doing it. And if it works for others great, just saying i see those break 10 times faster than a buttend blade.

I'm going to say they're doing it wrong. Did you notice what shafts they were doing it with? that could have an effect too. I also wonder if they were thinning the shaft walls instead of cutting up more or trying to remove the tenon, which would have that exact effect you're describing of the tapered end being destroyed.

If you're doing it properly what you get is pretty much identical to a store bought tapered shaft.

with the fused ops, its not really thinning the shaft wall. i've done this numerous amounts of time with numerous ops. my way of doing it is to cut at the exact fuse point and take a wood chisel with a hammer to remove the blade hosel. it works perfectly every single time. the blade hosel always splits away from the shaft wall when it is done correctly and just removes the remains of the blade. people who just keep cutting away tend to not know the correct way to do this and will just keep sacrificing length to their shaft. on all of the shafts i have done this with, ive had every one last longer then the length i've had them as a ops.

[cptjeff 0]

Yes, but some people file away at the shaft wall after they remove the tenon to make a blade fit. That's what I suspect is happening there.

[titand19 0]

Yesterday one of my old teammates gave me an old T-flex, and I sanded and filed down a standard blade to fit in it. Going to test it out this week and let everyone know the durability issues if any of this. The blade I sanded was from a batch i order from Easton. Wood P10 curve if it matters.

[sm326 0]

Yes, but some people file away at the shaft wall after they remove the tenon to make a blade fit. That's what I suspect is happening there.

with wood blades that will work perfectly. most composites now have hollow hosel's which tend to be pretty thin. if you chip away at those it will sacrifice durability causing them to break easily. if only companies didn't worry so much about making things lighter and ruining durability. i might grab a bunch more of the malone blades if i can get them tapered just because the curve is a stock p10/shanahan.

[Chadd 916]

Yes, but some people file away at the shaft wall after they remove the tenon to make a blade fit. That's what I suspect is happening there.

Those people are morons and deserve whatever breakage occurs