Greetings, switching from 1-piece to 2 piece and need advice

[Inferno272 0]

hey all, havent been playing hockey all that long, only a few years, and ive been using hand me down sticks from friends...i bought an S11 about 6 months ago, but its on its last legs...i cant even use it anymore, the toe is completely shattered. i was thinking about changing from the 1-piecer to a 2-piecer...getting a super high end shaft and blade, and then only having to replace the blade when needed since for me thats usually the only part of a stick i ever break. so what advice do you have for me? i was told this is the place to ask :-D

right now im using a getzlaf/lidstrom blade, but my heel is getting worn out so i figure the lie is wrong, gonna try a 5 lie isntead of the 5.5 that that blade uses. i was thinking about going with a Zetterberg blade since i have difficulty keeping my passes on the ice, they always seem to get lifted with the Lidstrom blade i use now....so, lemme know what you guys think.

oh, also im a wrist shot kinda guy, not a slapper kinda guy...i take way too long to load my slapshot, and ive got a good heavy wrister so i stick with that...so if you could advise on a blade/shaft thats good for wristers, id appreciate it.

[nhhockey8 0]

I've heard that the one95 shaft blade combo is pretty good.

[Jarick 5]

Sounds like the Zetterberg type blade would be a good fit, and pretty much any high end blade/shaft combo will shoot well.

[troy 12]

People will tell you that the relationship of pattern and stick to shot choice and efficacy is all PP; that is personal preference. Chadd had a good breakdown on how to pick a curve, starting with lie, then curve type, to curve size and the further details. Here's a recent topic about members' shaft and blade preferences: http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index.php?/topic/46898-best-bladeshaft-combo-out-there/page__view__findpost__p__694603__hl__combo__fromsearch__1

[Inferno272 0]

thanks, ill definitely check out that thread...got a game in a bit...using my backup stick tonight till i figure out what kinda stick i should be using.

[Scotty 8]

Good job on figuring out the lie part. Giving a 5 a shot may be worth it for you.

First figure out what you'd like to spend. After that, we can tell you which shafts to look into. You'll also want to take into account whether you want to try a standard shaft, which takes standard blades, or a tapered shaft, which takes the shorter/thinner hosel blades. Standard shafts tend to have a higher kickpoint and load a little more fully IMO. The marketing of the main stick companies will tell you that this is good for slapshots and such, but it really doesn't make a huge difference to beginners. A low kickpoint stick is said for being better for quick wristers and snappers because they allow for a smaller load from a lower kickpoint on the shaft and hence a quicker release. After that, it's whether you're looking for grip, non-grip, stiff or whippy, squared shaft shape or rounded, etc. The style shaft you pick (tapered or standard) will determine which blades you can use. Everything from wood to composites... some with a softer feel and others with a very lifeless, pingy feel. It's all up to you.

[fatwabbit 93]

if the S11 is done at that toe, why not convert it into a shaft?

[xrickyb86x 1]

I've noticed that switching from a OPS stick to a two piece that it's best to stick with tapered shafts and blades. It will be the same shooting technique the OPS gave you. I tried using standard shafts and blades and it was a different ball game. Completely.

[bostonjuniorblackhawks 1]

I've noticed that switching from a OPS stick to a two piece that it's best to stick with tapered shafts and blades. It will be the same shooting technique the OPS gave you. I tried using standard shafts and blades and it was a different ball game. Completely.

For standard shafts, all you need to do is get used to how it loads and make a few quick adjustments in your shooting technique. It' not difficult to jump around from ops to standard shafts to tapered shafts IMO.

[raygunpk 0]

For standard shafts, all you need to do is get used to how it loads and make a few quick adjustments in your shooting technique. It' not difficult to jump around from ops to standard shafts to tapered shafts IMO.

What kind of adjustments exactly? Are you speaking of a higher/lower hand placement?

[bostonjuniorblackhawks 1]

What kind of adjustments exactly? Are you speaking of a higher/lower hand placement?

there's a bit of hand placement stuff plus small teaks in my shooting motions to get my shots to the velocity and accuracy I want.

[Chadd 916]

there's a bit of hand placement stuff plus small teaks in my shooting motions to get my shots to the velocity and accuracy I want.

Standard doesn't load as easily, requires more force for the same velocity on wristers and snappers.

[Inferno272 0]

if the S11 is done at that toe, why not convert it into a shaft?

yeah, been thinking about that as a stop gap...

[sickwilly 37]

I've gone back to using more 2 piece setups than OPS. I have no regrets. Personally, I notice no loss of performance with a 2 piece tapered setup vs ops. From what you've shared so far, I think a tapered 2 piece setup may be a good option, especially if you're trying new blade patterns. Like other members have already said, I find tapered setups are a bit easier to load on wristers than standard combos.

I've never used one, but the tapered one95 shafts get a lot of love on MSH. Dolos shafts/blades are (IMO) also great choice.

I liked my RBK 7k tapered shaft pretty well. I see some of them popping up on ebay pretty cheaply these days. If I was shopping on a budget, it would be one of the tapered shafts on my "short list". I saw this listing while I was poking around earlier tonight (I know nothing about the seller, but it seemed like it could be a good deal for someone).

http://cgi.ebay.com/Reebok-RBK-7K-Sickick-Shaft-85-Flex-/170543473943?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b52ee517

[bostonjuniorblackhawks 1]

Standard doesn't load as easily, requires more force for the same velocity on wristers and snappers.

true. I still don't think that makes it hard to switch back and forth between a ops and standard shaft.

[raygunpk 0]

Standard doesn't load as easily, requires more force for the same velocity on wristers and snappers.

I always thought standards would load easier...hence why some people go up in flex when using a higher kickpoint stick over a lower.

[thorbs 2]

Well the stick flexes further away from your hands with lower-kickpoint sticks, so a higher flex would be more difficult to flex than a lower one. Compare that with mid-kick sticks, and it's flexing right by your hands so using a higher flex would be easier. I'm not sure if that made any sense.

Oh, and one95 shaft/blade combo is really sweet...Personally, I'd sooner take that combo for about $140 than a second-tier one-piece, but that's also taking $$$ into account.

[MLSman 22]

true. I still don't think that makes it hard to switch back and forth between a ops and standard shaft.

I go down on flex for standard shafts. Use an 85 ops and tapered shaft...but 77 on the Standard shaft. It balances out the extra force issue...for me

[Inferno272 0]

ok i bought an SE16 tapered blade, im going to try to saw off my s11 and use it as the shaft...im assuming its fairly simple? ive got a table saw, and i should just saw it at the same point where the current blade lines up with the new blade?

[sickwilly 37]

ok i bought an SE16 tapered blade, im going to try to saw off my s11 and use it as the shaft...im assuming its fairly simple? ive got a table saw, and i should just saw it at the same point where the current blade lines up with the new blade?

I haven't read this topic in a while, but there are a lot of good tips in here. May be a good place to get your question answered, too.

http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index.php?/topic/7494-cutting-ops-at-fuse-point/page__st__195__p__553537__hl__%2Bmaster+%2Bstick+%2Bcutting__fromsearch__1#entry553537