New Rivets in skates $

[gmill 0]

Hey all,

I was wondering how much does it cost to put new rivets in a pair of skates with new holders? CCM Epro holders in a pair of CCM U+ CL skates. JR or anyone with a shop be willing to do it if I ship them to you? Thank ya.

[JR Boucicaut 3801]

I don't have a shop.

I don't have a riveter either.

[gmill 0]

Sorry JR thought you worked part time out of a pro shop inside ice rink outside or around the Orlando area.

[Gummer12 134]

Do you have the holders already, and just looking for the cost for the Job? Or are you looking for the price of Holders Installed?

If it's just a simple swap of the same holders/size, then most shops usually charge $1 a rivet.

If it's more intensive that requires drilling new holes.. then it'll probably be a bit more. (Plus the cost of the holders if applicable)

(Don't forget to tip )

[JR Boucicaut 3801]

Sorry JR thought you worked part time out of a pro shop inside ice rink outside or around the Orlando area.

Nope

[Jason 65]

We charge $2/rivet.

[natbat 0]

Up here in Michigan I pay 40.00 bucks every time I get a pair of skates shimed ( They take the holders completely off ) and just put pair of ls2 on my CCM u.10 with steel work for 80.00..... I purchased the holders and steel for 120.00. Dosen't Pro skate in Canada do that type of work via UPS? Just FYI.

[Too Old 1]

Go to your local Home Depot/Lowes/etc and buy some button-head stainless steel capscrew fasteners and the proper style t-nuts/etc and do them yourself. Very, very simple project once you remove the old rivets which in itself isn't hard to do.

[Gummer12 134]

No..don't.

[notquitedeadyet 13]

No..don't.

This.

Why butcher up a pair of perfectly good skates just to save a couple bucks?

I have done it a couple times to convert old skates to roller for recreational use & I would definitely NOT call this a very,very simple project. Removing the rivets is easy enough for the ones you can get to from the inside, up I the toes-not so much. You have to drill the outsoles bigger to accept the t-nuts. The t-nuts will be too long so you have to grind them down & restore the threads. Then most will be too close to the side of the boot, so you have to trim that & also cut the prongs off because the insole is too thin, then keep them from spinning & cutting the boot when you tighten them. You will never find screws the perfect length (many different), and cutting stainless while maintaining the threads is also a challenge.

Definitely do-able, but certainly not simple, let alone very, very simple. I ended up buying a riveter because I like doing things right.

[Law Goalie 147]

You don't have to drill the holes out or grind anything down if you use 6/32 hardware, and you can buy clipped T-nuts. Granted, they are harder to find, but it shouldn't be said that this is a bad idea generally.

It is, however, worth saying that it's almost always more economical from a 'time is money' perspective to have a shop do it.

[jsykes 35]

We charge a buck a rivet if we're just installing holders. If you buy the holders from us we do the mount for free.

[Too Old 1]

As stated; it's easy to use nuts/bolts if you use the right hardware. Did this on my backup pair of skates (703's) and it worked just fine.

[notquitedeadyet 13]

Did this on my backup pair of skates (703's) and it worked just fine.

Now it makes sense; Graf skates have thick soft soles designed to sink nuts into.

The hard thin soles in modern skates are much less accommodating to this.

[HockeySavants 5]

My shop does $1 a rivet, $3 for copper.

I got my skates converted from ice to inline for $25 or so.

[Law Goalie 147]

Now it makes sense; Graf skates have thick soft soles designed to sink nuts into.

The hard thin soles in modern skates are much less accommodating to this.

While it was much easier to do on TPU outsole Grafs, I have used T-nuts (and other varieties) on Flexlite-10 and 12s (carbon outsole) and I'm about to do it on S15s.

If you use a nut with an allen-key head, it's not even that hard to do the ones in the toe. All said and done, were I not actively looking for things to do with my hands to keep me from going mad, I'd never bother.

[natbat 0]

No..don't.

I strongly agree! Wouldnt the nuts/bolts add weight and need to be stainless....does not seem worth saving a few bucks.

[Too Old 1]

I have to question those who claim to be able to "feel" a difference in weight. If it were a significant amount of weight then yes, I'd agree. But it isn't.

[Law Goalie 147]

You can also use fewer nuts and screws than you would rivets.

Again, it's an *option.* It offers a unique set of vantages. That is the nature of an option. Whether or not it's a viable option or a preferable one is entirely down to the old MSH refrain of personal preference and circumstances.

As an example, a 3mm goalie blade is significantly lighter than a standard 4mm blade. I prefer the way the 4mm blade feels and plays. Likewise, some people without access to a skillful, knowledgable and well-equipped sharpener would have good reason to forgo the advantages of Rocket Runners or nitinol.

[danno25nh 3]

I have to question those who claim to be able to "feel" a difference in weight. If it were a significant amount of weight then yes, I'd agree. But it isn't.

We've had people claim the wind resistance created by certain jerseys slowed them down and that certain stick tape ruined their shot because it was 1/4 mm thicker than what <insert name of favorite pro player> uses. Of course that 3 grams will make a huge difference.

[natbat 0]

I have to question those who claim to be able to "feel" a difference in weight. If it were a significant amount of weight then yes, I'd agree. But it isn't.

After I had a pair of skates shimmed, I could feel the weight....and yes, didn't matter.

I mentioned the weight because allot of skaters now a days are concerned with skate weight. I loved my Bauer 5000's and they are like boulders compared to my 8090's.

[jbss71 1]

You will never find screws the perfect length (many different), and cutting stainless while maintaining the threads is also a challenge.

a cheap wire crimp tool has places for the small sized screws used. You thread it in the length you need and squeeze.

But I agree cutting rivits, squaring holders and bolting is a pain. Maybe if I just doing a heel lift or a small blade shift.

Of course that 3 grams will make a huge difference.

in this case you can get titanium T-bolts and titanium half nylocs, but then again thats $35 worth of hardware