Easton Mako Skates

[sticktime 12]

I like flip12's take above which is to go back to the go back to the stock mako blade and go with a longer radius of 10" or 11". Seems logical that it would afford more stability.

I skated in my Nexus 600's and my now-neutral Mako's yesterday at public skate and they are almost identical as far as that flat footed/neutral stance. And I don't like it. It feels to slow.

But there's still that issue of the pain on the inside ankle bond of left foot. So I tried on vapor x100's and reebok 28k's yesterday and they both have good padding in that area, actually the reebok has way more than the vapor. So I'm not sure what I'm going to do now.

[z1ggy 81]

Optimus & others- I now noticed that there's like some kind of negative space around my upper outside ankle area, which makes me just not feel "Stable". Luckily I haven't skated in them yet, so I don't officially own them out right. I noticed when looking inside the boot, the padding in the ankle area is more "rounded" if that makes any sense, instead of being a bit more triangular, which is actually how the back of the lower leg/upper ankle area is (due to tendon, etc etc). This is how the padding is on my Vapors, and my Mission roller blades.

I think that feeling of having a bit of space in the outter back portion of the skate is due to that. Oddly enough though, it still feels solid and firm on my left foot, but not my right. The right foot is so bad, when I walk around with them on, my right foot is kind of wobbly & it's like the lateral support isn't there. Everything else is great though...Shame really. If I can't fix it I'm going to have to return them. Not spending $800 on a skate that gives me less confidence than my 7year old Vapors.

[smcgreg 81]

Optimus & others- I now noticed that there's like some kind of negative space around my upper outside ankle area, which makes me just not feel "Stable". Luckily I haven't skated in them yet, so I don't officially own them out right. I noticed when looking inside the boot, the padding in the ankle area is more "rounded" if that makes any sense, instead of being a bit more triangular, which is actually how the back of the lower leg/upper ankle area is (due to tendon, etc etc). This is how the padding is on my Vapors, and my Mission roller blades.

I think that feeling of having a bit of space in the outter back portion of the skate is due to that. Oddly enough though, it still feels solid and firm on my left foot, but not my right. The right foot is so bad, when I walk around with them on, my right foot is kind of wobbly & it's like the lateral support isn't there. Everything else is great though...Shame really. If I can't fix it I'm going to have to return them. Not spending $800 on a skate that gives me less confidence than my 7year old Vapors.

Maybe try rebaking that one. You may need it to open up more lower, or wrap a bit better up top. Worth a try.

[z1ggy 81]

I've baked both skates twice now, I'm hesitant on doing a 3rd. Sales guy baked his Mako I's 3 times, so I guess I would be okay, but I don't want to weaken the material by baking over and over.

Can you explain further what you mean by "opening up the lower"? How would that benefit me? Similarly, explain what you mean by a better wrap up top? Obviously, I know it implies having a tighter fit.. but how?

The skate simply lacks the padding right in that back area, unlikely my Vapor. It's got more roundness in that rear area, instead of more of a tapered "V" fit. If there's confusion, I'll post pics, but I think Mako owners would know what I mean.. I just looked at pictures on hockeymonkey, and this is confirmed.

Edited November 17, 2014 by z1ggy

[smcgreg 81]

I've baked both skates twice now, I'm hesitant on doing a 3rd. Sales guy baked his Mako I's 3 times, so I guess I would be okay, but I don't want to weaken the material by baking over and over.

Can you explain further what you mean by "opening up the lower"? How would that benefit me? Similarly, explain what you mean by a better wrap up top? Obviously, I know it implies having a tighter fit.. but how?

The skate simply lacks the padding right in that back area, unlikely my Vapor. It's got more roundness in that rear area, instead of more of a tapered "V" fit. If there's confusion, I'll post pics, but I think Mako owners would know what I mean.. I just looked at pictures on hockeymonkey, and this is confirmed.

I've had a similar issue on my right skate because I've "punched in" the inside of the heel a bit (below the ankle bone) to push my foot farther outside (long story). Anyway, when I did this, my heel didn't "sit in the pocket as well" (for lack of better phrasing). Also, that seemed to great more space around the top of the boot at the top two eyelets. The end result was pretty much the same thing you described. So, I rebaked to open the heel back up (get rid of the punch in) and get the heel to sit better in the pocket. As a result, both of the problems were solved both in the lower part of boot, below the ankle and at the top around the top eyelet.

Make sense?

[z1ggy 81]

Sure, it makes sense. But I've already baked them twice. Each time I tapped my skate on the rear of the blade to try and facilitate pushing my heel into the rear padding as far as it goes.

I'm saying, there's a lack of padding that forms a "V" shape, up the lateral rear side of the skate, which would be situated along the sides of the Achille's tendon. The V shape is the natural shape that is made due to the tendon popping out a bit. It is not round (for me) like the shape of padding in that area of the Mako. I don't think I am going to be able to just press on that area a bit when it's heated up and literally change the shape of the boot. I understand the skates are heat moldable etc, but there's nothing there for me to actually mold as far as padding goes, if that makes any sense.

[syinx 139]

Sure, it makes sense. But I've already baked them twice. Each time I tapped my skate on the rear of the blade to try and facilitate pushing my heel into the rear padding as far as it goes.

I'm saying, there's a lack of padding that forms a "V" shape, up the lateral rear side of the skate, which would be situated along the sides of the Achille's tendon. The V shape is the natural shape that is made due to the tendon popping out a bit. It is not round (for me) like the shape of padding in that area of the Mako. I don't think I am going to be able to just press on that area a bit when it's heated up and literally change the shape of the boot. I understand the skates are heat moldable etc, but there's nothing there for me to actually mold as far as padding goes, if that makes any sense.

I believe in the Mako fitting guide video Easton posted up, they actually recommend heating the area and squeezing the boot so the boot itself begins to conform to that "problem area" in your heel as stated.

Also, a lot of skates have this "Achilles' tendon" problem, and there are socks like the Stable 26 which have variable-thickness foam inserts on either side of your foot that make up for that negative space.

[z1ggy 81]

I will look at the Easton video, thank you. I'm wondering how much pressure and baking it will take. I only have my conventional home oven now, so I hope that's safe to use.

I already own Stable 26 socks, and put both the 2 and 4mm padding on the outside, which did not help. Stable26 is good, but the gel pads aren't actually high enough up and don't cover enough area I feel. They work well in my Mission roller skates to fill up some of the void in the heel pocket though.

[smcgreg 81]

Sure, it makes sense. But I've already baked them twice. Each time I tapped my skate on the rear of the blade to try and facilitate pushing my heel into the rear padding as far as it goes.

I'm saying, there's a lack of padding that forms a "V" shape, up the lateral rear side of the skate, which would be situated along the sides of the Achille's tendon. The V shape is the natural shape that is made due to the tendon popping out a bit. It is not round (for me) like the shape of padding in that area of the Mako. I don't think I am going to be able to just press on that area a bit when it's heated up and literally change the shape of the boot. I understand the skates are heat moldable etc, but there's nothing there for me to actually mold as far as padding goes, if that makes any sense.

Actually, as Syinx states, you can change the shape of the boot like that. For example, in my case, I used a heat gun to heat the area below the inside ankle and simply pushed in a bit with my gloved hands. Didn't take much at all and it really changed the shape of the boot. Once I had the shape I thought I wanted after 5 min, I threw them in the freezer and voila! Granted, at the end of the day I didn't get the performance effect I was looking for, but I was able to mold exactly the way I wanted with minimal effort. For spot types of applications though, as it sounds like you're trying, a heat gun will probably work better than a general bake. When I originally posted, I didnt' realize you had already baked twice.

So, I have another anecdote that is likely applicable (I have a bunch of them for Makos). The story I cited above was with my new Mako IIs. In my original Makos, when I baked them, I leaned forward too much and the tendon guard/boot upper junction cut in too much. It was so bad, at one point I couldn't stand up in the skates. So, I took my handy dandy heat gun and heated that area and pushed it out. It's a trickier area than the part inside, below the ankle though that I addressed in my Mako IIs, so, it was more work, but I was able to do it. Sounds like that's the area that's bothering you too? Back of the skate where the tendon guard joins the boot? It sounds like Syinx hit it on the head. Watch the video (Mako or MLX) and they pinch the heel on both the outside and inside for better heal lock and the effect should be to change the shape around the tendon, I expect.

[z1ggy 81]

Actually, as Syinx states, you can change the shape of the boot like that. For example, in my case, I used a heat gun to heat the area below the inside ankle and simply pushed in a bit with my gloved hands. Didn't take much at all and it really changed the shape of the boot. Once I had the shape I thought I wanted after 5 min, I threw them in the freezer and voila! Granted, at the end of the day I didn't get the performance effect I was looking for, but I was able to mold exactly the way I wanted with minimal effort. For spot types of applications though, as it sounds like you're trying, a heat gun will probably work better than a general bake. When I originally posted, I didnt' realize you had already baked twice.

So, I have another anecdote that is likely applicable (I have a bunch of them for Makos). The story I cited above was with my new Mako IIs. In my original Makos, when I baked them, I leaned forward too much and the tendon guard/boot upper junction cut in too much. It was so bad, at one point I couldn't stand up in the skates. So, I took my handy dandy heat gun and heated that area and pushed it out. It's a trickier area than the part inside, below the ankle though that I addressed in my Mako IIs, so, it was more work, but I was able to do it. Sounds like that's the area that's bothering you too? Back of the skate where the tendon guard joins the boot? It sounds like Syinx hit it on the head. Watch the video (Mako or MLX) and they pinch the heel on both the outside and inside for better heal lock and the effect should be to change the shape around the tendon, I expect.

Yeah it's pretty much right where the tendon guard and the boot meet, on that back side, between the anke bone area, and the tendon guard. It seems hard though to press and "keep" the mold, due to it looking like it sprung back to position after I let go. I'll have to maybe use some C clamps or something to hold it in place while it cools down? Unless I hold it there with my thumb for like 2-3 minute, then put it in the freezer like you said to try and lock it in.

I also have some hot spot on the outside right near the Easton logo, where it's a bit too tight. So I'll prob heat that up and punch it out a bit too. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, thank you!

[smcgreg 81]

Yeah it's pretty much right where the tendon guard and the boot meet, on that back side, between the anke bone area, and the tendon guard. It seems hard though to press and "keep" the mold, due to it looking like it sprung back to position after I let go. I'll have to maybe use some C clamps or something to hold it in place while it cools down? Unless I hold it there with my thumb for like 2-3 minute, then put it in the freezer like you said to try and lock it in.

I also have some hot spot on the outside right near the Easton logo, where it's a bit too tight. So I'll prob heat that up and punch it out a bit too. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, thank you!

When I pushed out the back at that spot you're referring to, I actually did use c-clamps and make shift metal punch. Definitely more complicated than the side, but it did work. I believe I heated it and left it in the c-clamps over night as opposed to going to the freezer. Good luck.

[z1ggy 81]

When I pushed out the back at that spot you're referring to, I actually did use c-clamps and make shift metal punch. Definitely more complicated than the side, but it did work. I believe I heated it and left it in the c-clamps over night as opposed to going to the freezer. Good luck.

Problem with C clamps is they only clamp in a straight line, ie, not in the V shape I kind of need the boot to squeeze in as. I think I will honestly just rotate with my g/f holding the boot in place, 30 seconds each for like 5 minutes or so, then pop the boot in the freezer.

I'm def going to need to punch out the sides a bit near the forefoot of each boot, definately a bit too tight there. that should be muccchhh easier though. I'll just use the butt end of a screw driver. I'll have good leverage and should be able to do it myself.

[gogovs 10]

I tried to replace the original runners in Easton Mako for step steel runners. It seems like the step steel runners are bit wider than original because I wasn't able to push the runner all the way down. Should I apply more force to push it down? I don't want to break the holder. I have to return the skates for an exchange due to misaligned holder.

Edited November 19, 2014 by gogovs

[syinx 139]

I'd like to guess that as long as they're snug and don't wobble, you're fine.

[gogovs 10]

I'd like to guess that as long as they're snug and don't wobble, you're fine.

I posted the pictures with original runners to show misalignment of the holders. I don't have the skates anymore as their replacement is coming tomorrow. I wasn't able to push the step steel runners into the holders all the way down, at least by hand because I didn't want to use extreme force and break the holder. Is this normal? A guy at LHS said that it is normal and to use rubber mallet or piece of wood. Anyone has an experience?

What do you guys think about the misaligned holders? To me it looks like quarter of an inch, which is a lot. The lady was trying to tell me that sometimes it's ok as long the blade is centered. ????? To my understanding if the holder is misaligned then the blade cannot be centered. Am I missing something?

Edited November 19, 2014 by gogovs

[louierev07 31]

I posted the pictures with original runners to show misalignment of the holders. I don't have the skates anymore as their replacement is coming tomorrow. I wasn't able to push the step steel runners into the holders all the way down, at least by hand because I didn't want to use extreme force and break the holder. Is this normal? A guy at LHS said that it is normal and to use rubber mallet or piece of wood. Anyone has an experience?

What do you guys think about the misaligned holders? To me it looks like quarter of an inch, which is a lot. The lady was trying to tell me that sometimes it's ok as long the blade is centered. ????? To my understanding if the holder is misaligned then the blade cannot be centered. Am I missing something?

Your talking about a separate issue than the new steel fitting right? The bottom pic it does look a bit misaligned, but the construction of the boot might be different too, so maybe where the outsole meets to side is in a different spot. I had a pair of vapors that were like that. I would send them back. Theres a good chance youll get mako 2 sent back to you, so thats another reason to send back. Call once they receive them and request you dont get the same ones back.

And those holders are tough, either use a mallet, or put your foot in them and stand up (on carpet or rubber).

[gogovs 10]

Thanks for your response,

Yes, I was talking about two issues. Misaligned holders and unable to push the Step steel runner all the way down.

I should have known that I would possibly get Mako 2 as a replacement from Easton and I would have done it. Damn it! I just requested a replacement pair from a hockey store to cross ship and they already came today. I already baked them this morning and have the Step steel sharpened.

I will put the Step steel runners on after I get home from work tonight and use a mallet like you suggested.

I want to skate tomorrow on them but not sure if it's a good idea to play a game, maybe I should just go to a public skate? Do you think that it will be a drastic change from Reebok Ribcor skates to Mako's? The Step steel makes the Mako's bit less aggressive I guess. I also had 280 on Ribcor's and now 272 on Mako's.

[mjpisat 36]

After having mako 2's for months I started to develop two small round sores about an inch above the bone on the outside of each ankle (1 sore on each). Finally figured out what I THINK it is. The outside of my ankle/leg is rubbing on the inside of the eyelet at times. I took my sock off put my foot in and it lines up almost perfectly. I go tongues in, shins over top. What the heck is going on? Is it the way I skate? The tongue not sitting right?

[KeepItLow 8]

After having mako 2's for months I started to develop two small round sores about an inch above the bone on the outside of each ankle (1 sore on each). Finally figured out what I THINK it is. The outside of my ankle/leg is rubbing on the inside of the eyelet at times. I took my sock off put my foot in and it lines up almost perfectly. I go tongues in, shins over top. What the heck is going on? Is it the way I skate? The tongue not sitting right?

I believe I may have the same issue as you, had both Mako and Mako II. Both of the skates caused rubbing in this area and eventually caused a scar there now..

This is my right foot which is very obvious, left foot is not as bad.. Guess Makos just didn't work for me so I've gone back to Bauer MX3 now, better quality and less problems

[z1ggy 81]

Did either of you two try heating up that problem area and punching it out a bit? Mako's are very heat moldable.

[daphray 0]

Love the Mako's but not a fan of the orange graphics...

I had originally painted over the orange strips with Krylon Fusion paint. It worked fairly well for about a year of 3 times / week of hockey. When I recently picked up a second pair, I realized that you can just sand it off! It worked out much better than I had expected.

I had also painted the tendon guards with Krylon Fusion, As you can see in the picture, it started to chip near the flex point - this is about a year 3 times/week. It is time for a refresh.

[anko 3]

After perhaps 75hrs of use my Makos are on their way out. Buying them in late spring before rarely skating over the summer puts me out of warranty. I'm getting outsole separation from the toe cap. Had minor Mako bumps, no issue with rivets although insoles always come out and my skates are put in front of a fan. For me, the pitch is the most significant performance aspect with the skates, I feel and appreciate the wrap, but don't feel that it's a performance advantage. I'll be back in Supremes, but with either a heel lift or pretty significant pitch on my runners.

[sticktime 12]

After perhaps 75hrs of use my Makos are on their way out. Buying them in late spring before rarely skating over the summer puts me out of warranty. I'm getting outsole separation from the toe cap. Had minor Mako bumps, no issue with rivets although insoles always come out and my skates are put in front of a fan. For me, the pitch is the most significant performance aspect with the skates, I feel and appreciate the wrap, but don't feel that it's a performance advantage. I'll be back in Supremes, but with either a heel lift or pretty significant pitch on my runners.

What you're referring to in you post about being in Supreme's with either a heel lift or a significant heel lift is exactly what I was going to post about.

Here's where I'm at - I had to give up on the Mako's due to the pain on my inner left ankle bone. Had them punched out in that area, and it did create a pocket however the problem area was the steel row of the eyelets, that is what was pressing on my ankle. That area cannot be moved. It was only a problem when doing crossovers to the left, but it was to the point of being unbearable.

So spent a good many hours this week over the course of a few days days and the the only skate that locked in my heel and fit everywere else was the Supreme 190. I had them profiled to a +1 so I could see if I like the middle ground between the pitch of the Makos (I know it's not just the blade of them that gives the pitch, I think it's the CXN holder that's also slightly taller than the Tuuk?), and I still felt like I was on my heels, like I could fall backwards.

So now I don't know what direction to go as far as further profiling of the blade and have LHS shave more off of the toe and how much, or have heel lifts put in?

Anyone have suggestions either way?

[mjpisat 36]

I wonder why the eyelet thing is only affecting a few of u. Weird. It's just that top one for me.

[jonesy9020 77]

I'd start with heel lifts and go from there as you could have some other problems profiling further, specifically inability to get a toe flick out of your stride if you keep shaving down. If the heel lifts aren't enough, then go back for more profiling.