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jonesy9020 last won the day on May 27 2015

jonesy9020 had the most liked content!

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  • Skates
    Bauer Supreme One.7
  • Stick
    Warrior DT1 or Mako Shaft/APX2 Blade combo
  • Gloves
    Eagle X72
  • Helmet
    Bauer 7500
  • Pants
    Easton 85s
  • Shoulder Pads
    Itech something old
  • Elbow Pads
    Bauer Supreme 6000
  • Shin Pads
    Bauer Supreme 8000

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  1. Hey I ran across this post from you back in Jan 2014. I'm having pretty terrible footpain right behind the ball of my foot, like it cramps up and I pronate a little on myright skate but I've noticed I have that same floaty forefoot feeling you mentioned, where if my heel is planted well I have almost no pressure on my forefoot like the skate is bent type of thing so when I lean forward I get a weird weight distribution on my foot. 


    Did you end up doing this and how did it work for you?


    Tried out the skates with superfeet at public skate, and for the first 8 laps or so, they were great. Then, very quickly, everything fell apart again. Lots of pain across both arches despite keeping them relatively loose up front.

    I'm not sure where I saw someone suggest this, but I definitely read it on an MSH forum. Given the floaty feel that I have in the front of my foot, my next move is going to be cutting the front half off two old insoles and putting them under the superfeet. My flys have a bit of a sloped outsole to them, and I think building up the front from the inside might be the way to deal with this. I'll report back with my findings.

    1. jonesy9020


      It may work for you, but the likely cause of your problem is skates that don't fit well overall.  The forefoot of the skate may be too narrow, causing the foot not to settle properly in the boot. the arch may be too narrow.  I think the arch narrowness was my issue with those particular skates, and arches are a particularly rigid part of the skate that doesn't change much with baking.  It could be a depth/heel lock issue such that you're overtightening your laces as a means to force your heel into the heel pocket and thus compressing your arch and causing other problems (I also had that issue).  You could try using a half insole in the front of the skate, but I think the other (less fixable) causes are more likely.  You may be better served just getting a new, better fitting pair of skates.  What exactly are you wearing now? 

    2. Deadman1515


      I'm running Nexus 6000 in EE, I need a punch on the outside of the skate but holding off a little longer to make sure the width doesn't improve at all so when I get the punch it's accurate. I keep the skates loose all the way up and only tighten the last 2 eyelets. The issue was really bad when I tightened them normally, keeping them loose has helped a lot.


      I've tried quite a few skates on and am about to give up and just throw money at VH Hockey because this has been a lifelong issue but dropping $1k on skates when I play beer league is a dead last resort but at the same time, I'm done throwing money at the problem in hopeful fixes when nothing has really helped.

  2. I think you could probably get some cash for it, but just my two cents from trying to sell hockey gear on ebay over the summer -- list it close to what you'd like to sell it for. The market is pretty lousy right now and if you list for a low starting bid there's a good chance someone comes along and puts in a single bid on the last minute of the auction to win the thing.
  3. Think you're referring to the hosel. At least from the pics on HM, it would appear that at least the ABS Lite standard blade is a longer hosel. The ABS comp blades both tapered and senior appear to be shorter.
  4. Picked up a never used old school Synergy Elite SE 85 Flex at a moving sale for $10 today. I know they weren't the most durable, but for $10, it feels great and honestly can't possibly disappoint.
  5. A few people have also had luck taking old footbeds, cutting off the front part, and placing it under your current footbed in the front of the skate.
  6. Curious, were you both using the step steel for CXN holders? Did one of you swap out for LS2s or some other holder?
  7. Thanks JS. Jetspeed sounds pretty awesome. Might be trying some on soon.
  8. Thanks for the update JS, I'd just like to ask about some of the inferences I got from the description. Is the Jetspeed now slightly narrower through the toebox, slightly narrower in the heel pocket, and less deep than the Tacks?
  9. The catalog claims that the Ultra Tacks Stick at 425g is the "lightest, best balanced, most durable stick we have ever created." I'm not one to get super hung up on marketing claims, but isn't it just objectively false that this is the lightest stick CCM's ever made? Wasn't the first version of the Crazy Light only 405 grams? Granted it had a lot of durability issues, but it was significantly lighter than the stated weight for the Ultra Tacks.
  10. I'll defer to someone with actual knowledge about this, but I'd tend to think not. The heel cup is a very structured, stiff part of the boot, so I'm not sure that you could punch that area, or that even if you could, you would want to. If the bumps developed by using an ill-fitting skate, they should gradually go away in a skate that fits well (I used to have a painful, swollen navicular bone area from rubbing up on the inner eyelets of a skate that was not deep enough for me, but it went away when I got into a better fitting model). If you punch the boot and the haglund's deformities eventually shrink or vanish, you'll have way too much slop in the heel, won't get a proper heel lock, and could end up making this a chronic rather than temporary problem. In the meantime, perhaps some additional padding (a few layers of moleskin donuts around the bump or maybe bunga pads) could help. I might also look into Stable 26 socks which could reduce any play in the heel that creates the friction that causes you irritation. Finally, as much as it's no fun, the best thing to do might be to take time off from skating to let the bumps diminish. Best of luck.
  11. No, and I have no plans to do so. However, my not having used them does not affect the point I was making, that their marketing terminology is nonsensical, often contradictory, and misleading, and that their goal appears to be to throw a bunch of buzzwords on a page to confuse the consumer and then say "it's basically a Superfast." A few more examples: They also compare the X19 to a Mako, despite it appearing to be a 1X knockoff, which is even more confusing because the Mako is a mid-kick while the 1X is low kick. At the top of the entire stick page they say that the Heat line is a Bauer Vapor equivalent, while on the Heat stick page they compare it to the Supreme line. The Supreme and Vapor lines are polar opposite sticks in Bauer's lineup. Supreme is a high-mid kick with a softer blade, best suited for slappers, while Vapor is a low kick with a stiffer blade best suited for wrist and snap shots. Perhaps the X19 actually has dual kickpoints like an intellisense profile on the APX2? Maybe that's what they meant when they said "super balance and kickpoints." They also make false claims such as having the only true one piece on the market. The Heat is actually the only stick I could find on the site where Tron has made half an effort to identify such basic information as where the kickpoint is located. So kudos to them for that.
  12. Wow, I hadn't been on the Tron website in a while and it looks like their attempts to make their sticks look like the same sticks from the big names has gone to the next level. For the Bauer stuff they've even made the names match, HX4 instead of MX3, X19 instead of X1, and Kinetic 8000 instead of Nexus 8000. Kinda shameless. The frustrating thing about what they do from my perspective is saying that the sticks "compare to" a particular branded model, but then don't have any of the features of that model. For example the 405 is claimed to compare to the RS2, but it's 405 grams (up for debate) while the RS2 is 445, it has a normal taper section while the RS2 is elliptical taper, and there's no mention of whether it's a high or low kick. Truly the only comparison between the sticks is the color scheme. The same goes for pretty much every other stick on there. They seem to have at least gotten the listed weights close to their comparison sticks for the most part, but then you get sales language like: "Square double concave taper" and throw your hands up in the air. A shaft cannot be both square and double concave. Also are we talking about the shaft or the taper area? A lot of people have said you get what you pay for with Tron, and to some extent that's true. But I still feel like this is unfair to consumers, especially as some have mentioned, novices who get sold this stuff most often. To say that one of these sticks compares to a Nexus 8000, Superfast, or MX3 is deceitful. The Tron sticks are not worth the $150 they're sold for, and much less the $250 of the products they claim to be comparable to. It just makes me mad. Go out and buy a mid-level stick from Bauer, CCM, Sherwood, Warrior, Easton or whoever else at the same price and you'll have a much better and more durable product.
  13. Looking to pick up a pair of Shifts on clearance and can't make heads or tails of the sizing advice after going through this forum. I am exactly a 9D in Bauer Supreme One.7. My best guess from the forums is a 9.5, but I also may need a 10. Obviously going to a shop to do this would be best, but my LHS does not carry alkali. Thanks for the help!
  14. Anyone had a chance to look at the Surgeon 300 shoulders? As low profile as the 500s? Looks like they might be a great choice for pick-up and lower level beer league.
  15. While Warrior initially may have missed the mark on their marketing strategy, this tweet doesn't fall into that category. They're having fun with the fact that they released a stick with the same characteristics and almost exactly the same acronym several months earlier. I think it's pretty smart, especially with Bauer claiming to be such an innovator in the industry. Sidenote: while the Dolomite, Mac Daddy, Nipple Grip, etc. were kinda over the top for hockey, I think it helped people notice the products, which they then toned down to fit the hockey market. I actually wonder if they would have survived had they not gotten a foothold with some of their more outlandish designs. JW: Is there any substance to the suggestions being bandied about that Bauer contract players are using Warrior repaints? I know repaints within a brand are a thing (e.g. a TotalOne painted to look like an APX2, Mako painted to look like a V9, etc.) and I know in the past there have been rumors of interbrand repaints, especially when Easton was pioneering OPS with the Synergy and some of their top players were clinging to wood twigs, but I haven't heard of cross-brand repaints recently.
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