Too Much Forward Lean: Shims/Lifts vs Profiling

[steelnation248 102]

Alright, so I picked up some MLX recently and when I got them, I noticed they had a little more forward lean than my Bauer's did. It was fine and wasn't too bad, but after a few skates, I continued to have arch pain. I put in some different insoles and it alleviated the arch pain. However, the raised heel in the insoles combined with the already forward lean of the skates has left me a bit uncomfortable. I'm thinking about giving it a couple more skates to see if I can get use to it. If I can't, I'm thinking about modding my skates somehow. However, I am not sure which way to do it.

I was talking to a worker at one of my LHS and he suggested profiling the steel might be the best method. He said lifts would be possible to do as well, but they'd have to be thin due to the screw length on the MLX. Are lifts/shims in the toe of the holder common, I usually always hear about heel lifts. Also, if shims are a good solution to my problem, would this be something that is possible to do myself? Since the holder is held in with 8 T-Bolts in the front, I don't it would be that hard to get some plastic at a hardware store and use that on them. Might have to use longer screws eventually (depending on how much material is needed to where I feel comfortable) but I would cross that road when it comes.

Any insight would be much appreciated!

[Gummer12 134]

Start with shims. You can always take out the shims if they aren't right.. you can't put steel back on.

[chippa13 1844]

If you've got a good sharpener around, tinkering with the profile shouldn't be too hard or take too much steel, either. It is really a matter of what he prefers.

[oldtrainerguy28 478]

I would have to say get the profile set to neutral first and start from there. If you solved the arch issue the profile is th next step. Always leave shims to the last resort.

[steelnation248 102]

Start with shims. You can always take out the shims if they aren't right.. you can't put steel back on.

That's a good point! And Chippa, I haven't used this particular shop for work on my skates before. My usual one doesn't do it.

I would have to say get the profile set to neutral first and start from there. If you solved the arch issue the profile is th next step. Always leave shims to the last resort.

Why is that?

[danno25nh 3]

The holders move both laterally and forward and backward. A slight move forward will make a pretty significant change. I put a little mark on both center and heel/ toe direction prior to adjusting. I'd consider that before shimming and profiling.

[smu 29]

I was talking to a worker at one of my LHS and he suggested profiling the steel might be the best method. He said lifts would be possible to do as well, but they'd have to be thin due to the screw length on the MLX. Are lifts/shims in the toe of the holder common, I usually always hear about heel lifts. Also, if shims are a good solution to my problem, would this be something that is possible to do myself? Since the holder is held in with 8 T-Bolts in the front, I don't it would be that hard to get some plastic at a hardware store and use that on them. Might have to use longer screws eventually (depending on how much material is needed to where I feel comfortable) but I would cross that road when it comes.

Any insight would be much appreciated!

____________________________________

Given the problem I had with over=pronation and shims I can see no problem with you being able to do a good job inserting a lift, never heard of a front lift, but before a couple of years ago I never heard of a rear lift which I have.

My problem was that I had rivets. If I had the screws like you I would do it myself.

Goog luck,

Alan

[innotastic 12]

profiling needs to be maintained, shims don't. it's also easier to change sets of steel with shims.

it really depends how much shimming you need to. i use a 1/16" shim in the heel to get to neutral on my supremes. i dont know how aggressive MLX are set to but the most i could imagine is 1/8" shims.

[chippa13 1844]

Even riding the stock profile needs to be maintained. Shims won't eliminate the need to refresh a radius periodically.

[oldtrainerguy28 478]

profiling needs to be maintained, shims don't. it's also easier to change sets of steel with shims.

it really depends how much shimming you need to. i use a 1/16" shim in the heel to get to neutral on my supremes. i dont know how aggressive MLX are set to but the most i could imagine is 1/8" shims.

I was going to say.....Profiling needs to be maintained...well of course it does. But it will not change blade height once the height has been changed with the profile unless you re-profile it? Soon as you take rivet's screws what ever out you change where the holder sat on the outsole ......last resort in my opinion.

[smu 29]

profiling needs to be maintained, shims don't. it's also easier to change sets of steel with shims.

it really depends how much shimming you need to. i use a 1/16" shim in the heel to get to neutral on my supremes. i dont know how aggressive MLX are set to but the most i could imagine is 1/8" shims.

I have 1/4" on my Baur X60 (2010 model) and gave me an immediate natural forward feel.

Alan

[jimmy 194]

Shims give a false sense everything being fine. When in fact, if the profile is not maintained at the same time, it can offset what the shim is doing. So if you put a front shim in, but your sharpener takes too much off the front, you reverse pitch will be negated. Thinkof profiling like a front end alignment on your car.

[smu 29]

Shims give a false sense everything being fine. When in fact, if the profile is not maintained at the same time, it can offset what the shim is doing. So if you put a front shim in, but your sharpener takes too much off the front, you reverse pitch will be negated. Thinkof profiling like a front end alignment on your car.

Thanks Jimmy I will discuss this issue for my rear shim when I have my alignment done, because the same guy has a great talk when it comes to profiling.