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Chris46

Stick Help

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Morning from over the pond in the Uk,

I'm new here so please go easy!

I've been playing hockey for a while now, just a rec level but after a couple of years break due to military service, I've come back to the ice again but I'm still having the same old problem of not being able to lift the puck off the ice with my shots.

I'm going to start looking for a new stick and therefore a curve that might help.

Can anyone point me in the right direction of what I want to be looking for or what curves could actually help?

Cheers,

Chris

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Morning from over the pond in the Uk,

I'm new here so please go easy!

I've been playing hockey for a while now, just a rec level but after a couple of years break due to military service, I've come back to the ice again but I'm still having the same old problem of not being able to lift the puck off the ice with my shots.

I'm going to start looking for a new stick and therefore a curve that might help.

Can anyone point me in the right direction of what I want to be looking for or what curves could actually help?

Cheers,

Chris

what curve are you currently having issues with in terms of being unable to lift the puck?

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what curve are you currently having issues with in terms of being unable to lift the puck?

I'm using a reasonaly cheap one piece stick, I'm not sure what the curve actually is, the face isn't particularly open and the blade is short in length.

Chris

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can't you post a picture?

as far as I'm concerned the bigger the curve the easier wristers will be in terms of control

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can't you post a picture?

as far as I'm concerned the bigger the curve the easier wristers will be in terms of control

I'm at work, so no, sorry.

Chris

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Instead of looking for shortcuts you should practice shooting until you can lift the puck regardless of the curve.

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Hello Chris,

I'm not an expert by any means, but I would visit the CCM, Easton, Warrior, Reebok, Bauer, Sherwood & etc websites and look at their blade patterns and descriptions. In this thread, Warrior provides an excellent blade comparison chart (other companies do the same), that way you know which blades are similar from brand to brand. ( ).

For what it's worth, I would think working on your shot mechanics first would aid in learning to lift the puck. If you want a blade that would help, I guess it would be an open toe style blade (the W03, P92, E3, P87A on the comparison chart). My son has the opposite problem, as he gets a little too much lift. He is concentrating on his shot more and fine tuning his shooting mechanics and is getting control of the lift. He uses the blades listed. I've been trying convince him to go to a less open toe style of blade to assist as well. Here is the thread I where I was asking similar questions as yours (for for the opposite reason) => http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index.php/topic/64339-ccm-curves-and-other-general-questions/?hl=hall

The site is so full of useful information, so once you find a blade style that may work for you, search on it and read what others have discussed about that certain blade.

Good luck!

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Bottom line is you need to practise, as the mod said above. Go and buy 20 pucks, a shooting pad, tarp, set yourself up at home and shoot 200 pucks every day. Lots of info here and on google and youtube on how to do this. A tape 2 tape device is also really good.

However it does help if you have some understanding of curves. The following is a generalisation, if you are good enough you can shoot with any curve.

If your current curve is flattish then it sounds like it might be a PM9 or Iginla or Burrows or similar. Good curve if you play D and want to keep your shots down. If you play in front of the net you want to use an open curve so you can get the shots up easier. Then you are looking at a Sakic / Hall / Drury / Lidstrome etc.

There are many sites out there that list curves, here is a good one I often refer to as it has a description behind each curve. It's a bit outdated in that it hasn't listed the new curves from 2013 onwards but it is still informative.http://patterndatabase.weebly.com/index.html

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Yeah, a lot of things are going to factor in on being able to raise your shot or not. It's mostly going to be fundamentals, although curve can help. I use a curve that's not exactly built for raised shots and I can raise them a little too easily sometimes. It's not as simple as us just naming a curve

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Move your lower hand around on your stick. If your hands are really close, you won't get the hang of lifting the puck.

Move your lower hand below the center and the puck near the toe. Try easy power shots with a lot of wrist snap. Once you get the hang of timing, you can move your hand up nearer the center and increase your power.

I'm getting the puck up, but still working on consistency. Getting my bottom hand lower and the puck at the toe made the biggest difference.

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Chris , one of the lads at our inline club was having a problem getting lift on his shots , a combination of a couple of things have helped . The main thing to be honest is practicing your technique , I'd had a fairly long break in playing myself until last year and whilst my wrist shot and snap shot were still ok , my slap shot was fking awful and still isn't where I'd like it to be , however a fair bit of practice and watching a few video tips have made a difference . The curve might help a bit and in the case of the other guy he went from a TPS Omega Sundin curve to a TPS Nash and he feels that it has improved things a bit but as others have said it's the technique that helps the most . Good luck .

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Thank you so much for all of your help. I'll look into getting a catch net of some sort so I can practice my shots.

Thanks again everyone,

Chris

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I'm getting the puck up, but still working on consistency. Getting my bottom hand lower and the puck at the toe made the biggest difference.

Shooting off the toe works if that's what your curve allows. For example when I had a p92 and the gionta curve, you could shoot off the toe fairly well because the majority of the curve is at the toe. Now I have a zetterberg curve and shooting off the toe is pointless. You have to move it more towards the heel

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