VH Footwear/TRUE by Scott Van Horne

[z1ggy 81]

8 hours ago, Sniper9 said:

Aside from custom bauer and CCM, All skates have at least the inside most rear front tower rivet a copper one. CCM does the most rear front tower copper x2 and trues do the same thing. As for rear tower rivets all companies only do the most rear two of the rear tower coppers. I've seen alternating but all rear Coppers is new to me, esp in combination of no front tower ones. 

I'm a size 7 in all retail skates and have been on 263 holders with Bauer and CCM... And now on my trues. The holder line up all the way to the edge of the heel and pretty much as far as you can at the toe without the holders being "oversized"

You're totally right about 1 copper rivet in the front, I just looked at my other skates. Maybe if Pure is cool they'll put a copper up front for me. 

As far as my size here... yeah not 100% but I was told it was 271 holders, so I'll see what the guys at Pure say today if I end up going there. CCM says 280's should be used for 8.5's. Here is a pic I just took... they definitely do look a tad short compared to yours. 

 

[z1ggy 81]

So I just measured the "stick out" from the edge of the rear holder to the heel of each of my skates. Now... I still don't know if it's an issue because I just looked and it seems Easton uses 271 holders on their 8.5's and that is what my Mako's are. But, I did just measure the stick out and I'll post the pics below. The True's had only about 1/4'' stick out, with the FT2 and Mako being around 3/8''. What's funny is I remember going into the Jetspeed first skate and thinking wow it seems like I'm on roller blades... it felt super long under my feet, very flat, etc. I thought it was just due to runner radius (coming from Mako's) but now I'm thinking it was because I went up an entire holder size. 

 

[Sniper9 530]

1 hour ago, z1ggy said:

So I just measured the "stick out" from the edge of the rear holder to the heel of each of my skates. Now... I still don't know if it's an issue because I just looked and it seems Easton uses 271 holders on their 8.5's and that is what my Mako's are. But, I did just measure the stick out and I'll post the pics below. The True's had only about 1/4'' stick out, with the FT2 and Mako being around 3/8''. What's funny is I remember going into the Jetspeed first skate and thinking wow it seems like I'm on roller blades... it felt super long under my feet, very flat, etc. I thought it was just due to runner radius (coming from Mako's) but now I'm thinking it was because I went up an entire holder size. 

 

Looking at the holders from this angle it looks completely fine. The other set of pictures made them look really short like half in front and back. My bad! Hope I didn't make you sweat over nothing lol. You actually have no stick out on the rear... What is sticking out is the heel pocket which you don't measure from. You actually should be looking at the edge of the bottom where it's flat and uours looks like there pretty much zero gap. 

As for rebaking you can do it yourself it's easy. Just make sure you have a thermometer in ur oven and don't trust your ovens preset temp. 

Ive baked my trues a number of times myself. Just do one skate at a time so you aren't rushing. And be sure to use a shoe horn when putting them on. 180 Fahrenheit for 10-12 mins. I did about 6 mins a side and flipped them. If your oven has a convection option, even better. 

If you have any questions feel free to pm me. 

Edited September 22, 2019 by Sniper9

[VegasHockey 1280]

2 hours ago, Sniper9 said:

Looking at the holders from this angle it looks completely fine. The other set of pictures made them look really short like half in front and back. My bad! Hope I didn't make you sweat over nothing lol. You actually have no stick out on the rear... What is sticking out is the heel pocket which you don't measure from. You actually should be looking at the edge of the bottom where it's flat and uours looks like there pretty much zero gap. 

As for rebaking you can do it yourself it's easy. Just make sure you have a thermometer in ur oven and don't trust your ovens preset temp. 

Ive baked my trues a number of times myself. Just do one skate at a time so you aren't rushing. And be sure to use a shoe horn when putting them on. 180 Fahrenheit for 10-12 mins. I did about 6 mins a side and flipped them. If your oven has a convection option, even better. 

If you have any questions feel free to pm me. 

I have to agree. This looks totally normal. 

[z1ggy 81]

I went to the closest hockey monkey and got them baked again but I still feel some extra room/slop in the heel and into the foot area. They did the ace bandage thing around my foot but honestly I don't think it did crap. I need the saran wrap method... I have some on hand but I'm nervous to put $1000 skates in my home oven. Maybe I'll experiment first on my mako's to make sure I get the process right. 

[shoot_the_goalie 281]

43 minutes ago, z1ggy said:

I went to the closest hockey monkey and got them baked again but I still feel some extra room/slop in the heel and into the foot area. They did the ace bandage thing around my foot but honestly I don't think it did crap. I need the saran wrap method... I have some on hand but I'm nervous to put $1000 skates in my home oven. Maybe I'll experiment first on my mako's to make sure I get the process right. 

If you have a convection oven at home that's in good working order, you really don't need to worry too much about messing up your skates as long as you follow the proper procedure.  I used to be anxious about baking skates at home, until I tried them out on some older pairs to test.  Never had a problem. But again, I follow the procedures (and manufacturer recommended temps) to a tee.

Edited September 22, 2019 by shoot_the_goalie

[z1ggy 81]

27 minutes ago, shoot_the_goalie said:

If you have a convection oven at home that's in good working order, you really don't need to worry too much about messing up your skates as long as you follow the proper procedure.  I used to be anxious about baking skates at home, until I tried them out on some older pairs to test.  Never had a problem. But again, I follow the procedures (and manufacturer recommended temps) to a tee.

This is an old school electric oven with coils inside. Youtube says I can heat it up to 180, turn off then put skates inside once coils have cooled down but meh. Will prob try on my old Mako's first just to make sure it doesn't melt anything. 

[IPv6Freely 2092]

Also keep in mind they aren’t using Saran Wrap, though I guess that may work okay.

[shoot_the_goalie 281]

5 hours ago, z1ggy said:

This is an old school electric oven with coils inside. Youtube says I can heat it up to 180, turn off then put skates inside once coils have cooled down but meh. Will prob try on my old Mako's first just to make sure it doesn't melt anything. 

With an electric coil oven, you probably won't damage the skate in any way if you follow the instructions.  However, you're bound to get an uneven heat (it's just the way those ovens work).  Will probably be fine for the most part, but you might find that some parts of the skate aren't molding in a similar fashion to other parts of the skate due to the unevenness. 

[Sniper9 530]

6 hours ago, shoot_the_goalie said:

If you have a convection oven at home that's in good working order, you really don't need to worry too much about messing up your skates as long as you follow the proper procedure.  I used to be anxious about baking skates at home, until I tried them out on some older pairs to test.  Never had a problem. But again, I follow the procedures (and manufacturer recommended temps) to a tee.

The thing about the Trues is that the facings are very stiff, so if they weren't heat moulded to wrap your feet completely with no negative space, you aren't going to be able to adjust the tightness that much with the laces alone since they won't really flex... That's why the saran wrap method is best. It saves the eyelets from stress and gives your a complete wrap around the whole boot from heel up.  It moulds the skate so that you won't need to tighten the skates that much. You can still tighten with the laces but only incrementally, and nothing drastic.

Like I said in my pm to u. Just get a separate thermometer and just be sure the overall heat in the oven doesn't pass 200.. I would even go on the safe side and keep it at around 180-190. 5-6 mins on each side and the skates will be super malleable. U can always test to see if they are ready by pressing the ankle areas. Those should be nice and soft. 

Do one skate at a time so you aren't rushing. And let the skates cool on ur foot for at least 15 mins. Watch some YouTube while it cools down. 

Lastly I'd tinker with removing the res insoles to see if that gives u a better feel. The extra mm or 2 lift it provides may be misaligning ur heel with the heel cup enough for you to notice issues. I found I preferred the feel with no red insole. Gave me better feel of the ice and boot. 

[Leif 161]

If there is an exposed heating element at the top of the oven, you might want to place a layer of foil on a rack just below the element, but above the skate. That will prevent the oven toasting the skate. Or skip the foil and shove a slice of cheese on. 

[z1ggy 81]

I don't think there's a coil on the top of the oven but I have to check. It also looks like VanHorne uses a skinnier roll of saran wrap... I have like a 12 inch wide roll that you'd get at the grocery store.... Anybody know where I can get something a little less wide? Afraid If I kind of smush it together while wrapping that I'll get weird uneven spots from where the wrap forms little knots/bunches up.

 

Guy on the other team last night at my game had True's on.... went up to him and asked if he had any volume or room in his boot at first and he said nope, fits like a glove, etc. So I know something isn't right.... that's 3/3 people in one day telling me I should pretty much feel like the thing is a glove to my foot. I understand the pocket is a little deeper so I will still keep that in mind.

[Sniper9 530]

It's not actual saran wrap it's shrink wrap for packaging. You can get it at any hardware store.  Or you can get the food grade plastic wrap and cut the whole roll to the width you want.... I'm in Canada and my local dollar store had them for three bucks vs 10 at the hardware store. Or look on Amazon. 

As for the fit. Ppl who have thicker ankles I find seem to have less issues with fit when heat moulding the traditional way without shrink wrapping because they naturally require less wrap.  My ankles are very skinny so I need the extra help in removing the negative space. 

Do the shrink wrap method and if you're still not happy, initiate a remake request. Imo you shouldn't need to do more than shrink wrapping if the skates are made inside out with ur foot last. No way during the build process the fit would have gone wonky to the point where you would need clamps etc.  So if they don't fit the way you think it should from shrink wrapping, you're probably never going to be happy.  But you have to decide whether they don't feel right bc you need to adjust to the feel or bc they straight up dont fit. I'd go for a few spins on the ice for sure before coming to a decision. 

I do wonder if the position you're feet are in during the scan can influence how the skates feel though.... If you're Inna deeper lunge vs more upright... It definitely Changes the angle of the ankle and shape of the heel... I can see if you're in a deeper lunge it can cause fitment issues bc your scanned ankle /knee flexion depth may be diff than during stride.  

That's my 2 cents at least. 

Edited September 23, 2019 by Sniper9

[CigarScott 132]

If you live in the states, you can get a roll of the wrap pretty cheap at Harbor Freight: https://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-x-1000-ft-high-performance-stretch-wrap-61519.html

[z1ggy 81]

 

1 hour ago, Sniper9 said:

It's not actual saran wrap it's shrink wrap for packaging. You can get it at any hardware store.  Or you can get the food grade plastic wrap and cut the whole roll to the width you want.... I'm in Canada and my local dollar store had them for three bucks vs 10 at the hardware store. Or look on Amazon. 

As for the fit. Ppl who have thicker ankles I find seem to have less issues with fit when heat moulding the traditional way without shrink wrapping because they naturally require less wrap.  My ankles are very skinny so I need the extra help in removing the negative space. 

Do the shrink wrap method and if you're still not happy, initiate a remake request. Imo you shouldn't need to do more than shrink wrapping if the skates are made inside out with ur foot last. No way during the build process the fit would have gone wonky to the point where you would need clamps etc.  So if they don't fit the way you think it should from shrink wrapping, you're probably never going to be happy.  But you have to decide whether they don't feel right bc you need to adjust to the feel or bc they straight up dont fit. I'd go for a few spins on the ice for sure before coming to a decision. 

I do wonder if the position you're feet are in during the scan can influence how the skates feel though.... If you're Inna deeper lunge vs more upright... It definitely Changes the angle of the ankle and shape of the heel... I can see if you're in a deeper lunge it can cause fitment issues bc your scanned ankle /knee flexion depth may be diff than during stride.  

That's my 2 cents at least. 

Ah I see. Okay I'll look on Amazon, which is where I buy like 80% of the stuff I ever need/use anyway.

 

So yes, with the scan I was leaning quite forward so my knee was very much over my toes. I have very skinny heels/low ankle but then it gets thicker fairly fast so I'm hoping getting these nice and soft with a really tight shrink wrap on that bottom heel/low ankle area will help. I'm guessing a lot of that "volume" I feel while standing is because the angle is different. I will get them on the ice for a few hours anyway after wrapping just to give myself a chance to adjust and get the feel for them. Hated the FT2's are first but after like... 2-3 hours in the boot, it's gotten better (Have probably put 8-9 hours on it now). It still hurts my feet a little bit but at least my foot pretty much feels totally locked in.

[z1ggy 81]

6 minutes ago, CigarScott said:

If you live in the states, you can get a roll of the wrap pretty cheap at Harbor Freight: https://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-x-1000-ft-high-performance-stretch-wrap-61519.html

https://www.amazon.com/Stretch-Handle-Pallet-Moving-Supplies/dp/B07HNYX5Y9/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=shrink+wrap&qid=1569250283&s=gateway&sr=8-7

 

$11 with Prime. How's that stuff look? I assume it's mostly all the same?

 

HF wants to charge me $7 for shipping $8 worth of stuff (and it will probably take a week to get here)

[CigarScott 132]

4 minutes ago, z1ggy said:

https://www.amazon.com/Stretch-Handle-Pallet-Moving-Supplies/dp/B07HNYX5Y9/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=shrink+wrap&qid=1569250283&s=gateway&sr=8-7

 

$11 with Prime. How's that stuff look? I assume it's mostly all the same?

 

HF wants to charge me $7 for shipping $8 worth of stuff (and it will probably take a week to get here)

It's probably fine. I wouldn't ship anything from HF. Most people in the US live relatively to close one and with their usual 20% off coupon, could have gotten it for like $7.

[VegasHockey 1280]

6 minutes ago, z1ggy said:

https://www.amazon.com/Stretch-Handle-Pallet-Moving-Supplies/dp/B07HNYX5Y9/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=shrink+wrap&qid=1569250283&s=gateway&sr=8-7

 

$11 with Prime. How's that stuff look? I assume it's mostly all the same?

 

HF wants to charge me $7 for shipping $8 worth of stuff (and it will probably take a week to get here)

That stuff is fine. You can also go to Home Depot or Lowes and get it too. Its pretty easy to find just about anywhere. 

[z1ggy 81]

Yeah I live in a weird tiny little suburb where it's literally just houses, no real Home Depot/HF, etc near me. Closest is prob 15-20 mins each way. I'm the type where I'll pay an extra $4 to have it delivered to my house and save myself the 30-40 mins of driving.

Edited September 23, 2019 by z1ggy

[Wphillyhockey 1]

Greetings

This website has been one of the most informative and useful for me over the years. This is my first post as I couldn't find anything within the 218 pages about "Forefoot skate shims". This is my first post. 

I have run the gamut of trying to find skates that don't cause me pain. I have arthritis in my feet, and most of my pain comes from forefoot pressure / my foot metatarsal bones. 

I asked true if they can make a less aggressive skate because of my condition. I am aware being more "stand up and on your heels" is not the correct skating posture. But I'm not a pro player and being more upright causes me less pain. 

True gave me two options of an "exterior" shim and an "interior shim" for the forefoot area, to level out the skate. The support rep from True said" 

"For the lifts to be removable they will have to be exterior lifts. The exterior lifts are simply a piece of plastic either 1/8” or 9/16” placed between the holder and the boot. The interior lifts are the same sizing options but actually molded into the bottom of the boot making it look seamless. However they are not removable this way."

I am curios if anyone recommends one over the other? Is there much of a performance difference? How much of a difference between 1/8 vs 9/16 will there be?

I am leaning towards the exterior shim as that way I could remove it if I ever wanted to. I have no idea on the shim sizes for the forefoot.  I still have time before the skate goes into production. 

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated, thank you. 

Edited September 23, 2019 by Wphillyhockey

[VegasHockey 1280]

39 minutes ago, Wphillyhockey said:

Greetings

This website has been one of the most informative and useful for me over the years. This is my first post as I couldn't find anything within the 218 pages about "Forefoot skate shims". This is my first post. 

I have run the gamut of trying to find skates that don't cause me pain. I have arthritis in my feet, and most of my pain comes from forefoot pressure / my foot metatarsal bones. 

I asked true if they can make a less aggressive skate because of my condition. I am aware being more "stand up and on your heels" is not the correct skating posture. But I'm not a pro player and being more upright causes me less pain. 

True gave me two options of an "exterior" shim and an "interior shim" for the forefoot area, to level out the skate. The support rep from True said" 

"For the lifts to be removable they will have to be exterior lifts. The exterior lifts are simply a piece of plastic either 1/8” or 9/16” placed between the holder and the boot. The interior lifts are the same sizing options but actually molded into the bottom of the boot making it look seamless. However they are not removable this way."

I am curios if anyone recommends one over the other? Is there much of a performance difference? How much of a difference between 1/8 vs 9/16 will there be?

I am leaning towards the exterior shim as that way I could remove it if I ever wanted to. I have no idea on the shim sizes for the forefoot.  I still have time before the skate goes into production. 

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated, thank you. 

You basically answered your own question. If they build the shim into the skate it will not be removable but if you have external lifts added you can add, remove, or adjust them if needed. I always recommend external vs internal because of of such. 

[Wphillyhockey 1]

Thanks. 

Is the difference drastic between the two shim sizes?

[z1ggy 81]

38 minutes ago, Wphillyhockey said:

Thanks. 

Is the difference drastic between the two shim sizes?

Take out a ruler and look...? 1/8'' vs just over 1/2''.

 

Nobody can really answer for you how you will react to what you feel. I got 1/16'' shims put under my old Mako front towers and it was a very noticeable difference in feel for me at first. I would suspect a 9/16'' shim would feel very, very noticeable. Are you sure they said 9/16''? I'm not a skate builder or shop owner but that seems super thick for a skate shim.

Edited September 23, 2019 by z1ggy

[Wphillyhockey 1]

Thanks Z1ggy.  This is a big purchase for me, and somewhat my last go to be able to keep playing hockey with my foot issues.

The rep did say "1/8 vs 9/16".  I thought 9/16 was large too. Would not have thought to double check, now I am thinking he may have meant "1/16th". 

The way you described your experience makes me just think trying 1/8 is a good spot to start. 

[z1ggy 81]

8 minutes ago, Wphillyhockey said:

Thanks Z1ggy.  This is a big purchase for me, and somewhat my last go to be able to keep playing hockey with my foot issues.

The rep did say "1/8 vs 9/16".  I thought 9/16 was large too. Would not have thought to double check, now I am thinking he may have meant "1/16th". 

The way you described your experience makes me just think trying 1/8 is a good spot to start. 

Yeah I would double check to see if he made a type-o. Understand about the cost, I'm trying to get mine perfectly dialed in as well, it is a lot of $$ to spend.