VH Footwear/TRUE by Scott Van Horne

[IPv6Freely 2093]

I had to heat that area to get my feet in, it was tearing my skin up.I as well had to heat and lift the eyelet cuff near the toecap so the tongue would sit flat and stop the bad numbness I was getting.

All good now?

[nicker87 47]

I only used the shoehorn during heat-molding to protect the thick foam in the lining at the heel which is susceptible to permanent deformation when it's hot. I've never needed the shoehorn to get them on during normal use. I admit that the area around eyelets 3 and 4 rubs the top of my foot very hard when I put the skate on, but it's not enough to cause any kind of damage to the foot unless I put them on and remove them 10 times in a row.

Has anyone here had an issue with there foam deforming during the molding process? Just wondering how common this as my skates hopfully will be ready soon and don't wanna screw them up.

Edited October 20, 2015 by nicker87

[IPv6Freely 2093]

Has anyone here had an issue with there foam deforming during the molding process? Just wondering how common this as my skates hopfully will be ready soon and don't wanna screw them up.

Yea, I had my liner rip. I'm not 100% why it happened exactly, but It wasn't during the molding process. I think I just didn't open up the top enough after baking and tried shoving my foot in too forcefully the first time I wore them on the ice. See pictures a couple pages back in this thread.

[nicker87 47]

Yea, I had my liner rip. I'm not 100% why it happened exactly, but It wasn't during the molding process. I think I just didn't open up the top enough after baking and tried shoving my foot in too forcefully the first time I wore them on the ice. See pictures a couple pages back in this thread.

I can definitely see from your picture how that would be a reoccurring issue and will definitely use caution the first couple times putting them on, thanks!

[tcolar 1]

I received my skates today and baked them, here are a bunch of pictures :

http://wiki.colar.net/vh_footwear_hockey_skates

I'll post my thoughts once I skate in them tomorrow.

[mc88 160]

disregard.

Edited October 20, 2015 by mc88

[BRUINS_FAN_74 19]

I've never seen anyone lace up like that. Reason/benefits in doing so?

I received my skates today and baked them, here are a bunch of pictures :

http://wiki.colar.net/vh_footwear_hockey_skates

I'll post my thoughts once I skate in them tomorrow.

For sure! Really love them now! Will get another pair in the future!

All good now?

[tcolar 1]

That kind of lacing is much more aerodynamic resulting in .... kidding.

Reason is that I baked them with only the first eyelet laced, then put my foot in it with the shoehorn, then I realized I could not get the lace into that eyelet with my foot in, and I didn't want to remove/reinsert my foot again, so I just skipped that eyelet.

It's not an area where it makes much difference (toe cap) so I figured it would not matter for molding.

I knew someone would ask me though ;)

[tcolar 1]

Added my first impressions after playing in them http://wiki.colar.net/vh_footwear_hockey_skates

Short version, at first i thought they where horrible until I realized the holder blade screw had not be tightened what so ever (not even a turn) ! After changing that I think they are great. Very form fitting and great energy transfer, good "ice feel" too.

[mc88 160]

Added my first impressions after playing in them http://wiki.colar.net/vh_footwear_hockey_skates

Short version, at first i thought they where horrible until I realized the holder blade screw had not be tightened what so ever (not even a turn) ! After changing that I think they are great. Very form fitting and great energy transfer, good "ice feel" too.

Numb toes are never a good sign and most likely won't fix itself. Refer to my post on how to permanently fix the problem.

Edited October 22, 2015 by mc88

[tcolar 1]

Actually used the skates another 2 1/2 hours today (coaching), I simply pulled the tongue up a bit ~1/2" before hand and now the toes are happy.

Afterward my feet felt quite good but I think the arch support is a little less than in my Grafs (I have tall arches), no a show stopper, but I might play a bit with the footbed / insoles and see if I can improve that a little.

But for new skates hardly any break-in really.

[kadayo 9]

Actually used the skates another 2 1/2 hours today (coaching), I simply pulled the tongue up a bit ~1/2" before hand and now the toes are happy.

Afterward my feet felt quite good but I think the arch support is a little less than in my Grafs (I have tall arches), no a show stopper, but I might play a bit with the footbed / insoles and see if I can improve that a little.

But for new skates hardly any break-in really.

I would suggest getting some type of footbed that has support for your high arches. I have the same issue and I needed to get the Graf custom foot beds made for both pairs of my VH skates. I feel that support for higher arches is the only thing lacking in the VH skates.

[IPv6Freely 2093]

If you use 3rd party footbeds I'd recommend you try them with the red insole still in, or else you're going to create volume in the skate. When I got my VH I tried pulling out both the red and yellow insoles and putting my Superfeet in and it was WAY too much room in my toe box. Put the red back in and it felt much better.

Though I ended up going back to using the stock footbeds. They're mostly good, they just seem a bit too wide in the heel... I need to trim them.

[BRUINS_FAN_74 19]

I have super high arches and I'm using the VH footbed minus the red insole and have no issues. I told Rob in advance I have super high arches and need arch support. When I was fitted, we made sure to have a ruler in the photo for the arch area, as well as for any issue areas. We sent in several photos of my feet.

[nicker87 47]

http://i.imgur.com/caxRbcm.jpg

Just got them home after the bake!! First impressions- AMAZING!!

Went very simple on the boot, no extras and clarino liner.

Every thing I was hopping for outta the box so far. First skate tomorrow!!

[oldtrainerguy28 478]

http://i.imgur.com/caxRbcm.jpg

Just got them home after the bake!! First impressions- AMAZING!!

Went very simple on the boot, no extras and clarino liner.

Every thing I was hopping for outta the box so far. First skate tomorrow!!

Sorry I was not there today, just in Detroit with my girls team. There good eh??

[mc88 160]

VH Ordering Guide (player only)

Boot options:
Option 1 (older generation boot)


Option 2 (newest generation boot -- may only be available in smaller boot sizes)

Additional options:

• Opt. 1: Hard Plastic Toe Cap -- hard plastic coating over the carbon fiber shell for additional protection
• Opt. 1: Double Stitching near Toe Cap -- highly recommended option if going with the older generation skate; prevents the premature breakdown of the boot near the in-step and out-step silver toe cap graphic pieces
• Opt. 2: Nylon Plastic Toe Cap -- rigid nylon piece that overlaps the carbon fiber shell for additional protection
• Opt. 2: Sidewall Color Options -- Red, White, Blue, Yellow, Silver, and Green
• Enhanced Sidewall Protection -- adds protection to the sides of the boots, but makes the boot stiffer and 30 grams heavier
• Liner Options -- Tan Clarino or Black Wick Liner
• One-Piece Tendon Guard -- one-piece polymer infused plastic tendon guard or Standard Tendon Guard -- a seamless tendon guard covered in Vibram and a sewn-on, synthetic leather piece
• Tongue Upgrades Options -- single black felt tongue with an optional enhanced metatarsal guard (for rigidity) and/or custom embroidery option (up to 3 digits)
• Rust Resistant Eyelets -- rust resistant coating to prevent premature rust on eyelets
• Built-in Shims -- adds height by adding additional carbon fiber to the bottom of the boots
• Blacked Out VH Logo -- removes the in-step and out-step VH logo for a blacked out look

Ensuring Accurate Tracings
What you'll need:

• VH foot tracing template
• Ruler or T-square
• Pen
• Tape
• Camera
• Scanner
• Photoshop *optional* (this will ensure measurements are very, very accurate as the "line" tool has a built-in measurement system)

Tracing Process:

• First take several pictures of your feet with a ruler in the picture, like so (do both feet): Top length, In-step, Out-step and Top width
• Print out 5 copies (10 tracings total) of the VH foot tracing template and tape them to a very flat floor
• Decide on whether or not you want to skate with or without a sock, then place a bare or socked foot onto one of the pieces of paper. Make sure the heel is slightly in front of the heel line, bend your knee, and then begin tracing with a pen (keep it vertical as much as possible, don't tilt in or out): Tracing example (yours does NOT need to be this clean, but it will make the following steps easier)
• Repeat until you have 10 tracings total (5 left, 5 right)
• Using a ruler/T-square or Photoshop (for Photoshop, you'll need to scan images at 300dpi, crop them to an 8.5" x 11" image, and make sure the canvas size is set to 8.5 in x 11in), create a rectangle around your foot tracing by using the center dotted line as an anchor, then bisect that center dotted line at 90° to find the top and bottom lines (length), then bisect those lines at 90° to find the left and right lines (width): Tracing rectangle example
• Write down the length and width measurements on each tracing (eventually, you'll want to convert inches to mm)
• Compare each tracing measurement to the pictures you took of your feet (top length and top width) and see which tracing matches the closet. If none, then repeat the process again. For example, this tracing most accurately represents my left foot: Tracing final when compared to: Top length and Top width

Baking Instructions:

• Heat the oven to 180°F (convection*** setting if possible, if not bake will work too) Note: Leave the oven on. Do not turn it off during the baking process!
• Unlace the skates down at least two eyelets, then pull the slack down, and pull the tongue back to allow heat to penetrate the interior boot
• Place a small towel on a cookie sheet, then place a SINGLE skate on top of the towel
• Place the cookie sheet on the middle rack and close the oven door
• Set a timer for 15 minutes*** (no more than 20 minutes)
• Halfway through the baking process, flip the boot over and close the oven
• Check the boot after 15 minutes and see it's soft and malleable, if not, leave it in for another 2-5 minutes (in my oven, I placed my boots in for 17 minutes)
• Carefully insert your foot into the skate and lace up.
• While the boot is cooling on your foot, take your hands and press in and around your entire foot to ensure a proper molding/fit.
• *Optional* Use a tensor wrap during the molding process (lace up at 80% tightness and then wrap the tensor bandage around the boot)

***For a convection bake, no more than 8-10 minutes!***

Adding this here to avoid any confusion about where the heating temperatures and heating times are coming from:


Here's a video of Scott doing an at-home bake (he places it directly on the rack, however I recommended placing a towel on a cookie sheet, then boot on top):

Completing the ordering process:
Take your final tracings, your pictures of your feet, your boot specifications and send them to sales@vhfootwear.com

Pricing is as follows (CAD for Canadian buyers and USD for everyone else):
Custom VH Hockey Boot only - $800
Custom VH Hockey Boot with Holder only - $850
Custom VH Hockey Boot with Holder + Steel - $900 Edited October 26, 2015 by mc88

[nicker87 47]

Sorry I was not there today, just in Detroit with my girls team. There good eh??

No worries.

Amazing!! Can't wait till they break in! Thanks for the fitting

[oldtrainerguy28 478]

VH Ordering Guide (player only)

Boot options:

Option 1 (older generation boot)

Option 2 (newest generation boot -- may only be available in smaller boot sizes)

Additional options:

• Opt. 1: Hard Plastic Toe Cap -- hard plastic coating over the carbon fiber shell for additional protection
• Opt. 1: Double Stitching near Toe Cap -- highly recommended option if going with the older generation skate; prevents the premature breakdown of the boot near the in-step and out-step silver toe cap graphic pieces
• Opt. 2: Nylon Plastic Toe Cap -- rigid nylon piece that overlaps the carbon fiber shell for additional protection
• Opt. 2: Sidewall Color Options -- Red, White, Blue, Yellow, Silver, and Green
• Enhanced Sidewall Protection -- adds protection to the sides of the boots, but makes the boot stiffer and 30 grams heavier
• Liner Options -- Tan Clarino or Black Wick Liner
• One-Piece Tendon Guard -- one-piece polymer infused plastic tendon guard or Standard Tendon Guard -- a seamless tendon guard covered in Vibram and a sewn-on, synthetic leather piece
• Tongue Upgrades Options -- single black felt tongue with an optional enhanced metatarsal guard (for rigidity) and/or custom embroidery option (up to 3 digits)
• Rust Resistant Eyelets -- rust resistant coating to prevent premature rust on eyelets
• Built-in Shims -- adds height by adding additional carbon fiber to the bottom of the boots
• Blacked Out VH Logo -- removes the in-step and out-step VH logo for a blacked out look

Ensuring Accurate Tracings

What you'll need:

• VH foot tracing template
• Ruler or T-square
• Pen
• Tape
• Camera
• Scanner
• Photoshop *optional* (this will ensure measurements are very, very accurate as the "line" tool has a built-in measurement system)

Tracing Process:

• First take several pictures of your feet with a ruler in the picture, like so (do both feet): Top length, In-step, Out-step and Top width
• Print out 5 copies (10 tracings total) of the VH foot tracing template and tape them to a very flat floor
• Decide on whether or not you want to skate with or without a sock, then place a bare or socked foot onto one of the pieces of paper. Make sure the heel is slightly in front of the heel line, bend your knee, and then begin tracing with a pen (keep it vertical as much as possible, don't tilt in or out): Tracing example (yours does NOT need to be this clean, but it will make the following steps easier)
• Repeat until you have 10 tracings total (5 left, 5 right)
• Using a ruler/T-square or Photoshop (for Photoshop, you'll need to scan images at 300dpi, crop them to an 8.5" x 11" image, and make sure the canvas size is set to 8.5 in x 11in), create a rectangle around your foot tracing by using the center dotted line as an anchor, then bisect that center dotted line at 90° to find the top and bottom lines (length), then bisect those lines at 90° to find the left and right lines (width): Tracing rectangle example
• Write down the length and width measurements on each tracing (eventually, you'll want to convert inches to mm)
• Compare each tracing measurement to the pictures you took of your feet (top length and top width) and see which tracing matches the closet. If none, then repeat the process again. For example, this tracing most accurately represents my left foot: Tracing final when compared to: Top length and Top width

Baking Instructions:

• Heat the oven to 180°F (convection setting if possible, if not bake will work too) *Note: Leave the oven on. Do not turn it off during the baking process!*
• Unlace the skates down at least two eyelets, then pull the slack down, and pull the tongue back to allow heat to penetrate the interior boot
• Place a small towel on a cookie sheet, then place a SINGLE skate on top of the towel
• Place the cookie sheet on the middle rack and close the oven door
• Set a timer for 15 minutes (no more than 20 minutes)
• Halfway through the baking process, flip the boot over and close the oven
• Check the boot after 15 minutes and see it's soft and malleable, if not, leave it in for another 2-5 minutes (in my oven, I placed my boots in for 17 minutes)
• Carefully insert your foot into the skate and lace up.
• While the boot is cooling on your foot, take your hands and press in and around your entire foot to ensure a proper molding/fit.
• *Optional* Use a tensor wrap during the molding process (lace up at 80% tightness and then wrap the tensor bandage around the boot)

Completing the ordering process:

Take your final tracings, your pictures of your feet, your boot specifications and send them to sales@vhfootwear.com

Pricing is as follows (CAD for Canadian buyers and USD for everyone else):

Custom VH Hockey Boot only - $800

Custom VH Hockey Boot with Holder only - $850

Custom VH Hockey Boot with Holder + Steel - $900

Why would you need that many tracings? I really think this is way to much work. If your really concerned you can not make a good tracing simply go to an orthodics store and get a crush box and match your drawings to the crush box measurements?

Ass for the oven....I would turn it up past 180 and then turn it off!!!!!! I have a pair of skates in my shop that someone did not and they are lets say...ruined! (also make sure the towel is damp so it wont catch fire incase there is some residue from something else you may have used it for that was flammable).

They rest of the info is very helpful. If you are near a fit center make sure you try and head into try a pair on so you can say what you liked and what felt best about the size you tried on.

[mc88 160]

Why would you need that many tracings? I really think this is way to much work. If your really concerned you can not make a good tracing simply go to an orthodics store and get a crush box and match your drawings to the crush box measurements?

I found that a tracing can vary as much as 3mm depending on how the pen is touching the paper. By doing multiple drawings, you can get an average reading and throw out the outliers. For example, I had a left foot tracing that was 273mm in length and 109mm in width. Despite this particular tracing being done by another person who was extremely careful not to bend the pen, the reading was way off! In addition, crush boxes/foot casts bring in a whole bag of other uncontrollable variables (foot movement, weight displacement, and limitations to the materials). This is why I'm assuming Scott moved away from these methods (3D scanning and custom plaster casts). While doing multiple drawings is and will be time consuming, it will ensure better readings (I'm a perfectionist and a do-it-yourselfer that lives by the artist standard: Don't just create 1 drawing and hope it turns out okay, instead make a 1000 drawings because of those 1000 at least one or more is bound to be great).

Ass for the oven....I would turn it up past 180 and then turn it off!!!!!! I have a pair of skates in my shop that someone did not and they are lets say...ruined! (also make sure the towel is damp so it wont catch fire incase there is some residue from something else you may have used it for that was flammable).

This is not an arbitrary number. This was recommended in an earlier VH video. Also, there were instructions with my new set of skates that state that if you don't bake it in a skate oven, then bake at 180°F for 15-20 minutes! Also, by keeping this temperature low, a damp towel is not needed (I guess if you wanted to be absolutely safe you could do this, but I've never done this and haven't had any burning/smoking/catching on fire issues).

If you are near a fit center make sure you try and head into try a pair on so you can say what you liked and what felt best about the size you tried on.

Unfortunately, the majority of these fit centers are only located in the mid-west to east coast. For how big San Jose is and how popular hockey is becoming, we don't even have a reliable hockey shop around that can do repairs on equipment! It's sad when I hear stories of people getting whatever they need fixed locally, when I can't even find a shop to swap out some rusty eyelets (a LHS told me they only have pneumatic machines and their die was too large for my VH eyelets)! This is why I spend so much of my limited free time doing my own modifications and custom alterations

Edited October 26, 2015 by mc88

[IPv6Freely 2093]

I'm having a major issue with my skates. I'm getting significant pain on the balls of my right foot, specifically just below the big toe. It's at a point now where it hurts like hell to bend my toe, making it painful just to walk.

I didn't think it was the skates, but it had almost started feeling better again until I played last night.

I have absolutely no idea what to even look at or try.

I did notice there's a lot of front to back movement of the yellow insole because the toe of it seems to have curled upward. I wonder if that's causing my foot to jam forward or something? I'm confused by that as I never lose my great heel lock.

[Monty22 833]

I'm having a major issue with my skates. I'm getting significant pain on the balls of my right foot, specifically just below the big toe. It's at a point now where it hurts like hell to bend my toe, making it painful just to walk.

I didn't think it was the skates, but it had almost started feeling better again until I played last night.

I have absolutely no idea what to even look at or try.

I did notice there's a lot of front to back movement of the yellow insole because the toe of it seems to have curled upward. I wonder if that's causing my foot to jam forward or something? I'm confused by that as I never lose my great heel lock.

I had similar pain with my APX as well CCM CL , along with my VH when I tried them with my super feet. Turns out I just needed slightly thicker insoles in that area. The CCM / Currex insoles resolved my discomfort.

[IPv6Freely 2093]

I had similar pain with my APX as well CCM CL , along with my VH when I tried them with my super feet. Turns out I just needed slightly thicker insoles in that area. The CCM / Currex insoles resolved my discomfort.

Hmm. Changing the insoles is definitely a first step. Maybe I should try putting my custom SIDAS in there. I hadn't bothered because I had no problem with the stock VH until recently. Thanks!

[Furyan 1]

Hey guys

I know that it is stupid question, but sorry one more time -)))

I'm between easton cxn holder and ccm sb4.0 for my new pair of VH

I was fine with both of these last 2 years (cxn on makos and vhs, and sb on ccm tacks)

I like "soft" feeling of cxn, but at the same time I like edge hold of sb, and I believe that SB holder exactly lighter than cxn...

I'm affraid of the stiffness of sb holder + stiffness vh carbon boot will bring too much stiffness for me

As well, I'm not sure that geometrical parameters of cxn and sb are the same, I feel that cxn has a little bit aggressive stance..

Thanks in advance!

[laserrobottime 149]

Hey guys

I know that it is stupid question, but sorry one more time -)))

I'm between easton cxn holder and ccm sb4.0 for my new pair of VH

I was fine with both of these last 2 years (cxn on makos and vhs, and sb on ccm tacks)

I like "soft" feeling of cxn, but at the same time I like edge hold of sb, and I believe that SB holder exactly lighter than cxn...

I'm affraid of the stiffness of sb holder + stiffness vh carbon boot will bring too much stiffness for me

As well, I'm not sure that geometrical parameters of cxn and sb are the same, I feel that cxn has a little bit aggressive stance..

Thanks in advance!

The CXN holder is definitely more aggressive than the SB4.0 holder.

You could always get Step Steel for the CXN so you have better steel quality and will hold an edge longer.

For me, the combination of the VH boot's aggressive forward cut and the CXN holder would be too much, but that's my preference.