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if they release one piece composites painted to look like the 90s Christian sticks i'll buy 100

Normal Rain-X is formulated for Glass surfaces I believe, I would try their one for plastic surfaces. https://www.rainx.com/product/plastic-water-repellent/rain-x-plastic-water-repellent/#.XXfryJNKh24

I use rain-x anti fog on my bubble and I find that it works the best, I do reapply it about every 2-3 weeks or when I see the fog build up getting worse

I just got my graphite colored 710 this week and will be putting one on so I will let you know. So far, all of the kids we sold them to said they are tremendously better about handling fogging and even water/ice splashes than the Bauer units. I am surprised I have never read about people using rain-x on their visors. I used to and it worked perfectly.

Owner's manual will tell you the steps to follow, but generally they are nothing drastic. The guidelines will tell you to probably not tow or to keep the revs from staying at a continuous speed over a long distance for the first couple hundred of miles. Some performance oriented cars will require a servicing at the dealer after a few hundred miles, but this isn't common in mainstream cars.

From 2014

i use the hybrid visor/cage style and it doesn't fog nearly as much as the full bubble. it has less visor so it sits above your nose where the full bubble the glass ends below your nose and fogs like crazy

I went to a stick and puck session and decided to finally drop the top eyelet and I have to say that I really like it. Didn't take too much adjusting but really like the mobility and increased flexion not only on my strides but on turns. Didn't feel as awkward as I thought and after about 30 mins I felt pretty comfortable. Will try it in a game setting next but looks like I'm probably going permanently convert. Even though the Trues already provide a natural forward lean when laced to the top, I like my skates fairly snug at the top, so I'm still able to tie it snug and not have the feeling of my forward flexion being a bit inhibited. I'm also not a fan of lacing up to the top and having the top a bit looser because it eventually affects the overall lace tension, even with waxed laces.

I tried to go from TRUE to CCM customs and it wasn't terrible but it definitely took some time to adjust. Most significantly was the fact other skate boots having a neutral pitch or very minimal forward pitch from the factory and TRUE has a very noticeable forward pitch built into the boot and eyelet positions. As such, I eventually went back to TRUE after a while. While I felt faster with my FT2 customs on the top end, 6+ strides, but had dramatically less control and agility in the first 6 strides. Cannot comment on custom Bauers, I have not got them yet. I did try the Vapor 2X Pro retail skates and absolutely dislike them as they felt sloppy fitting, which is expected coming from custom skates to a retail model. Many others have said they are very nice though. As for rivets and such, I use a little drop of this on my rivets and such and they never rust or get loose. Plus it easily scrapes off if you need to service the skate/holder. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-Black-Liquid-Electrical-Tape-4-oz-LTB-400/100119178

I have to assume they'll run them through Heritage, which Graeme also purchased. He also purchased Torspo alongside Christian.

If anything, I'd rather have the 15 on the front and the 13 on the back. 😛 I have a pair of steel that's 13' neutral, and I'm happy with the heel stability on that. And I have steel that's 13' pitched to a -1, which moves the glide edge forward, and I'm happy with the toe on that, but obviously, I lost a little stability on the back side, so I'm wondering how much pitching the blade moves the the glide edge forward. From google, it says it's 5mm, but I'm not sure if that's true. I'm also wondering how the size of the glide edge changes with the size of the radius. If I know this for sure, I can hopefully determine the profile I'll need to be an approximate amalgam of the two profiles I'm using right now. From what I could gather and suss out--and I'm not sure how true it is-- a 13' radius should be around 60mm and a 15' would be 70mm. I'm just wondering if these numbers are true. I play center, and during games I end up playing pretty much every position on the ice at one time or another. At heart, I'm a distributer, hence why I'm a center. I do a lot of curls and shifts to buy time, so I can find open teammates. But I can shift my game to whatever is needed at the time. In terms of skating style, I'd say evolving, because I'm not entirely sure right now. I've always had issues with not bending my knees enough, but after going most of my life without doing enough about it, I recently started seriously working on things. Part of that has involved going from not paying any attention to what my profile was to, well, this mess I'm in right now. 😛 I found that the flatter radius allowed me to make large leaps on things I had stalled out on in terms of improvement. I'm actually quite surprised at how much of a difference it made. The extra stability has allowed me to start skating with my laces loose, and that has allowed me to get a better knee bend and a better feel for my edges.