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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble


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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/19/22 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    just stole these off eBay for $280. they were never skated in. came with never sharpened LS3 steel
  2. 4 points
    Brand new pair of mako 2 skates. Recent pick up. Love them
  3. 4 points
    This raises an interesting point. In many countries there are now laws that protect consumers, in mine a manufacture has to make a product that is fit for purpose, durable (and yes, the cost of the product is part of this equation - the more it costs the longer it is expected to last) and that they must carry spare parts for the expected life of the product in the market. A manufacturer's warranty is no longer worth the piece of paper it is written on, what counts is a "reasonable expected life span" of the product. Puck strikes are part of the game and if it had happened here within a 2 to 3 year period of owning the skates I'd suspect that someone would be dragging Bauer's ass (or their agent, the shop) in front of the tribunal on at least 2 breaches of our law (and I can think of another 2 beyond durability and spare parts). disclaimer - I'm a litigious pita bush lawyer that has spent many many hours helping people out with cases against manufacturers / agents and their supposed warranties, marketing bs and disclosures.
  4. 3 points
    I am back at it as of this past Monday. Thanks for your well wishes.
  5. 3 points
    Posted on Phew and 2k but figured I'd post here as well. Just had these done by Joe at Hockey Menders and very happy.
  6. 2 points
    Worcester Railers pro equipment sale at Worcester Ice Center 112 Harding St, Worcester, MA 01604 From 10:00 AM - 12:00 PM
  7. 2 points
    Yep, 100%. Though I will add. When I use the term aggressive when describing the 90TM I am doing so in comparison to the 92, not the 28.
  8. 2 points
    Facings on them are significantly different allowing more flexion and range of motion. Boot fits tighter than the current TF design due to the change in the toe cap assembly. Tendon guard is more flexible. Skate is lighter.
  9. 2 points
    If 5/8" has enough grip, it's time to try 11/16. And so on, until you find a hollow which is definitely too shallow.
  10. 2 points
    Just a follow up, I went back to my FT4's for a game on Monday. Then I went back to the TF7's for pickup last night. I dropped down from the 1/2" ROH, to a 5/8", and it made a HUGE difference. It pretty much alleviated most of my concerns in my previous post. Skating felt much more natural and normal (even in new skates). I'm really enjoying how comfortable these skates are. I'm seeing zero need for a second bake, or wrap. We will see if the difference in holder size becomes a detriment. From this point, I'll do another 12-15 skates on them before formulating a concrete opinion on them. However, so far, so good.
  11. 2 points
    Let's try with another gif: Does that help? I do use the heel curve capabilities of an X28 when I use one. What I appreciate about a heel curve or a heel and toe curve is the ability to saucer the puck without involving my wrists. The open face is made to elevate the puck as it travels from heel to toe. As always with the X28, the release point for this is earlier than it normally would be, otherwise the puck gets released in the rockered toe section of the blade. The problem then is, instead of the puck tilting upwards for liftoff, it partially loses contact with the blade, so the puck only lifts up on one side and falls on the other: flutter launch. If you release before the toe rocker kicks in, the heel works as any lofted heel curve does.
  12. 2 points
    I also think the hollow is the right place to start. I dropped from my standard 5/8 (even 9/16 sometimes) to 7/8 with very little adjustment and no loss of control and the skates are much easier to "slide out" now, but still plenty grippy when I need/want it. My nephew who is in custom Trues went all the way to a 1 3/8 cut and loves it. Granted his edge work is impeccable, but I think that also says something about how effectively the boot transfers body movement into the ice. I was in Ribcor 76Ks just prior to getting the Trues and I didn't feel much of a change pitch-wise. But I didn't go down a runner size in the Trues. And I second the "behind the tongue" lacing approach for the top 1-2 eyelets. So much easier than trying to cram it through in front of the tongue. I'm surprised the shop you bought them from did not give you this tip at purchase.
  13. 2 points
    It's not an argument if we can keep it civil. I'm all for, "Really?" "What do you mean?" Etc. Good old days discussion, which the internet seems to be slowly annihilating... For the sake of discussion I made this composite image to better show my description. Believe me, I know the looks of things can be deceiving when handling a highly complex 3D object with compound curves on all sides. Reducing it to 2D can help with isolating single facets of these diamond-like geometries: If we can agree that the Drury is a heel curve, then so is the Kreps (X28). It's just as curved at the heel. When you compare this with the other facets of the Drury, it's easier to see the overall similarity. When I did this the first time in person, it was an E28 to E6 (original Drury) side-by-side, and I swear I recall the faces lining up even more than this W28 to W03 does. Seeing all of the similarities stack up, I had to believe the E28 is a modified Drury. It's too eerily similar in all ways to be anything else in my mind.
  14. 2 points
    For the top two eyelets, thread the laces through the eyelets behind the tongue and then pull the laces over. It's much easier that way. Trying to thread the laces through the eyelets with the lace in front of the tongue is really tough. As for the feel issue, I only have TF9s converted to roller, so I don't know how they feel on ice, but I know most people that go from another brand to True ice skates end up having to go with a shallower hollow; so, that's definitely a good starting point. If the boots felt comfortable, I personally wouldn't change the footbed. I'd start with the hollow and if that didn't fix it, I'd consider getting them profiled.
  15. 2 points
    If that's true then the rocker was definitely different or Easton's lie numbers didn't align Bauer's. I had issues with pucks sliding underneath the toe on P92's which is why I stopped using them. I never had that with Sakic's, Hall's or even Warrior Drapers.
  16. 2 points
    As others have said, I went down 1/2 size from Bauer. Pre-bake my feet barely fit in the boot and I thought there was no way these were going to fit. Post bake they fit absolutely perfect. After a season of play they’ve opened up slightly but not enough that I would have been able to drop an additional 1/2 size.
  17. 2 points
    I scan as a 7.5 Fit 3 Bauer and wear 8EE Makos. When I tried TF9 skates, 8W was clearly too big, 7.5W felt like the right size before baking and 7W was really hard to get my foot in and my toes were hard against the cap. I still went with the 7W, after baking they still felt a bit short, but after about 10 hours of skating, I was glad I went with the 7W vs. 7.5W. So, I would try them on, but keep in mind that the right size should feel too small before baking. If they feel like the right size before baking, they'll likely be too large after baking and break in. A half size down from Bauer is a good starting point, but every foot is different.
  18. 2 points
    Definitely at least half size down, but the sizing is very different so best is to try them on. I'm a 9E in Supremes and wear 8.5R TF9, could probably do 8R or 8W for a "performance" fit, but I prefer the comfort. I also don't pass the pencil test in TF9s, but don't have lace bite (only skates I do pass the pencil test in are Nexus and Tour).
  19. 2 points
    The mechanics are different. For example on inline your weight needs to be over your heel/rear wheels whereas with ice you’d place your weight more to the centre of your holder. The wheels do require you to lean into the edges as you can’t remain upright on them.
  20. 2 points
    I tend to stay away from injected eyelets. When players request the Hyperlite skates I recommend they order custom and get standard eyelets unless they are entirely sold on the injected eyelets.
  21. 2 points
    The fit system confusing?? LOL like it wasn't majorly confusing before. The goal of the Fit Systems was to allow players to wear whatever model skate they wanted. No more, you're a Supreme fit or you're a vapor fit. That was majorly annoying and flat out ridiculous. I will admit, there are some minor annoyances. First, not every skate uses the fit system. Second, a tapered Ribcor feels and fits slightly different than a tapered Jetspeed. Not enough where I couldn't wear one or the other but enough to where one felt better than the other.
  22. 2 points
    Injected eyelets are garbage. Bauer uses typical marketing bs to claim performance improvements, but the reality is it almost certainly makes the skate cheaper to manufacture so when they charge a premium for this "feature" it's even more profitable.
  23. 2 points
    How old are they? Those look like the original laces and still look fairly new? If I dropped a grand on skates and that happened within a short time frame and it wasn't covered, then I'd be looking at a different manufacturer for my new skate.
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    I'm a level 2 certified coach, been coaching ice and inline for 15 years. But I didn't invent this, other much better qualified coaches than me have done this. For example look at this . Wally Kozak is one of the most respected coaches out there.
  26. 1 point
    For 272 you have a ton of options. You can easily go with the Quad 0, Quad 1, or the Ellipse Zero. Quad 1 is likely a good match for 272.
  27. 1 point
    Excellent gloves. A+++ seller and as advertised
  28. 1 point
    Tried these on for the first time on Saturday. Fit is superb. Adjusting to the pitch wasn't as bad as I thought it would be (though I'm at +2 instead of the stock +3 as I had changed the runners to step steel). Won't be going back to the Super Tacks. Tight turns with the makos just felt so much smoother for me compared to the super tacks. I'm guessing that the super tacks was simply too stiff of a boot for me.
  29. 1 point
    Another vote for P90TM. I used P28's for a number of years before switching over. I never cared much for the P92, found it to be too big of a hook, preferred the open toe of the 28 more so. The issue with the P28 was how open the toe was, it made for awesome shots when you got it right but it was very unforgiving if you misfire towards the toe. The P90TM is slightly more closed at the toe which, for me, made all the difference in being more forgiving on misfires (also I found it was better for backhanders, much easier to control backhand shots and passes than the P28 was). I now have a bunch of P28's I need to figure out what to do with and have also been trying to decipher pro stock listings for P90TM's since it seems to be a crap shoot between what they describe and what it'll actually be lol
  30. 1 point
    I've used all three, 28, 92 & 90TM. The 90TM is really good blend of both those other curves without some of the drawbacks. The 90TM plays like a less aggressive 28 with a flatter rocker. After a few skates I put all my 28's up for sale and never looked back. BTW, CCM offers a P90 and P90T, neither of which are the same as the retail P90TM aka Benn Pro. Though the 90T is close. Something to keep in mind if you shop for pro stocks.
  31. 1 point
    The more you use them, the more you will realize their benefits. I cannot go back to regular steel at this point. I have the new TRUE Catalyst Pro demo pair, and when I tried to use them, I felt like a baby giraffe on the ice. The boot is impressive, and the Shift Max holder feels excellent, but they need Flare.
  32. 1 point
    Nope! New England Sports Center in MA. https://www.nes.com/
  33. 1 point
    I can definitely see how you're drawing your conclusion. But IMHO, it can be difficult to pick out differences because in a static image broad-stroke similarities blend together and wash out the subtle differences. I went to this website Blade Pattern charts and used pics from there to make an animated gif flickering between a p6 and p28 to see if the differences became more apparent. Judge for your self, but to me, it looks like the p28 is straight at the heel. This is most apparent when we focus on the top edges of each blade and see how they differ. And this is consistent with my experiences with the p28. Whenever the pucks is on the heel--this is obviously subjective--but there doesn't feel like there's any curve to work with back there. And with the backhand, there's feels like there's more blade to work with when compared to my previous curve the p29.
  34. 1 point
    Use thinner and longer non waxed laces(Elite Prolace or similar). And go to a shallower hollow(around 3/4").
  35. 1 point
    So I made an "impulse" buy, and bought a pair of TF7's the other day, and played in them for the first time last night. A little background- I'll be 45 years old later this year. I've played hockey since I was 5. I'd say skating is the strongest aspect of my game, and always has been. I had just bought a pair of FT4 Pro's back in January, to replace my beat AS1 Super Tacks. I've always been a CCM guy when it comes to skates. The exception being a few pairs of Reeboks throughout the years. CCM skates (skates only) are the only brand of hockey equipment/gear that I've been mostly loyal to my entire life. (Still remember getting fitted for my Super Tacks that I paid for with my own paper route money back before middle school hockey season in the late 80s). I have zero issues with the FT4 Pro's. It's a great skate, that I've really grown to like how they feel and perform. The purchase of the TF7's have nothing to do with needing new skates or any issues with the FT4's. As I said- the TF7 were a total impulse buy. I essentially walked out of the store with senior TF7's for a hair under $200.00 after all discounts were applied. I figured at that price, if I didn't like them, or they didnt work for me, I could pretty easily recoup my money. So, I had them baked per the instructions in store. I opted not to do the wrap in store right then and there. It was suggested that I do the initial bake, then try them out a few times. Then if I needed to go back for another bake, or a bake and a wrap if it were needed, we could do that. The skates were also hand sharpened to my preferred 1/2". I'm also down half a size in the True skates. I'm a 10 in most CCM models. In the Trues, my foot floated in the 10. Was way too tight through the mid foot in both a 9 and 9 wide. 9.5 felt the best, and that's where I ended up. Skates seemed to bake great. The wrap was pretty solid. Heel was completely locked in. Decent volume. In store I was very pleased with how they felt after the bake. So I pulled the trigger. I tried them on a few times around the house on Saturday and Sunday. Like many of you, it's an adjustment trying to figure out the best way to get them on and off. As well as lacing the top two eyelets again, as I need to undo them entirely to even think about getting the skate off. It's tough with the tongue position to lace the last few eyelets, even with the skate off. Both of these can be very time consuming until you get more used to the most effective ways of getting the skates on/off and lacing them. I'm glad I did a few practice runs before heading to the rink. The only thing I found concerning at this point was that my pinky toe on my left foot was rubbing up against that rubber bumper piece in the toe box of the left skate (Note- I was not in actual skate socks). I felt inside the skate, and felt like this was something I could remove altogether (if needed), or at the very least use a Dremel and sort of clean out some space right there. So that was one thing I wanted to keep an eye on during my first skate. Cut to my first skate in them. Standard pickup with friends last night. Most played college hockey in some form, so while we are older, it's still a pretty good skate, with a good pace. After I got them on, the first thing I noticed was that little rubber piece that was rubbing my pinky toe wasn't as noticeable. This continued to feel fine throughout the skate, and was no longer a concern I had by the end. The boot felt great throughout the entire hour and a half skate. I don't think I've ever just put on a pair of skates that the boot was this comfortable, and I got such good heel lock essentially right out of the gate. Kinda crazy considering even at MSRP this skate is around 1/3 the cost of the skates I had just purchased a few months prior, and fresh out of the box- the True's felt better. The issue though- was actually skating in them. The absolute best way I can describe it was, I felt like I was in goalie skates. I know that doesn't make a ton of sense, I just felt like the steel felt very "long", and flat. It definitely had an edge, but just felt way off. I was not comfortable with anything other than straight-line acceleration. I understand that new skates take time to get used to, it's just I felt like Bambi out there at times. Specifically on quick/hard stops, and crossing over. It's the worst I've skated in new skates in a very long time. So this is something I need to try and understand, and alleviate. A few variables I'm considering are that I've been on 287 CCM holders for what feels like forever now. My TF7'S have a 280 holder. Second, I've been using a 1/2" ring on the Sparx Machine I own for over 5 years now. The sharpening I got in store was by hand, by a very reputable Sharpener here in MA. However, these felt soooo much sharper and had way more bite it seemed than I've ever experienced prior. So I'm going to try and start small to fix these issues. Easiest thing is to try a different sharpening. Maybe go down to a 5/8 or something. I'll try different things. Maybe put my Superfeet in them. I'm just hopefull I won't have to reach the point where a complete holder and steel swap to CCM holders with Step is what's needed to fix this. Anyhow, apologies for the long and all over the place post. My initial impressions are you get an absolute ton of value at this price point if you can make these skates work for you. Hoping I can get there.
  36. 1 point
    Maybe, but I was first made aware of it almost 40 years ago (that was hard to type...) and I remember it being presented as, "the Russians have been skating with no laces for years" so it wasn't tied closely to the skate stiffness (see what I did there...) and isn't new.
  37. 1 point
    I'm 100% sure. I've been using Sprungs for about 15 years now and the mounting instructions that the inventor provided were: 1) Find something that shows up on the sole and mark the center of the toe and heel on the sole. Check the boot and sole to best find the center spots. 2) Draw a line from the toe spot to the heel spot. 3) Find the center of the line on the sole between the end edges of the sole and mark it. 4) Measure 1/4" toward the heel from the center point and mark this point with a line across the sole at 90 degrees to the center line. 5) Align the frame with the center of the toe mount and heel mount on the center line, and the horizontal cross member in the center of the frame lined up with the horizontal line on the sole (# 4). 6 Drill the holes through the frame (you can drill inward a little to avoid hitting the frame with the drill, and they will mount easier because of the slight angle). Or mark the mount holes through the frame and drill with the frame removed. 7) ENJOY I always printed out these instructions and gave them to the shop. One shop didn't follow them early on and I definitely felt the difference. If they're centered then you engage the suspension by just standing on them. If they're mounted 1/4" toward the rear then you only engage the front suspension when you stride. If they're mounted more toward the front that'd definitely explain the stability issues...that's the opposite of what you want and is even worse than a mount that is centered front to back. They'll definitely feel way better if you get them remounted toward the rear. After the one incorrect mounting, I not only print out the instructions, but insist they read and use them (some workers believe they've done enough inline conversions that they don't need instructions, but they're used to a flat chassis like a HI-Lo where you do want to center them. You have to emphasize that they need to be mounted 1/4" toward the rear). Actually, the last couple times I actually brought boots with a good mount in as an example and just said, mount them exactly the same. I had 8EE OG Makos with a good mount as an example and was getting a new chassis mounted on 8EE Mako M7 boots - so the boot size and shape was exactly the same. I left one of the OG Makos with Sprungs in the shop for them to reference. With that size of skate and a Sprung A6 there's only about 5mm (less than a 1/4") of space at the rear after mounting and 10mm (a little under 1/2") at the front; so, a 1/4" more toward the rear just like the inventor intended. Here's a video of someone doing the install on their own. If you look at his edited comments in the video, he later realizes that using a center punch to punch out most of the rivets is way easier than prying them out or using a chisel. A shop of course has a rivet machine with a punch. I have removed a chassis on my own in the past and just used a rubber mallet and a robertston screw driver to punch out most of the rivets...a shop can do this more efficiently though:
  38. 1 point
    It's in the mounting leaflet that comes with the Sprungs to have them fitted 1/4 towards the rear of centre.
  39. 1 point
    Since you wrote the above I have had weekly lessons with a figure skating coach and I now have good edge control. Regarding your first statement, I get a lot of feedback from my skates, I can feel the edges very clearly, and for example I know if my forwards/backwards crossovers are wrong because the edges feel wrong. I adjust my technique until the edges feel right. Similarly, if I’m doing a forwards power pull, it’s all about the edge, to minimise the friction and ride the edge. People at public skating tell me that my ankles move about a lot in the skates, I’ve had people ask if my skates are special because of this. I wear Bauer 2S Pro custom skates, and they don’t restrict my ankles at all despite having a stiff shell. Years of basic drills have corrected my (bad) posture, and improved the basic stride and technique, to gain good edge control. After three years of teaching myself, my skating was awful, bad posture, bad technique. I doubt it would have improved much after another three years, I would probably have continued fighting against awful technique and made small gains, limited by the fact that the basics were dreadful. I practiced regularly but all that did was reinforce bad practices. I don’t know if skating with laces undone would have helped someone so utterly inept as me. As an aside, I’ve met quite a few adults who from the first session were learning phenomenally fast eg doing crossovers and spread eagle (mohawk) on the second session. They learnt at least ten times faster than most of us. In every single case the person was an athlete: a professional dancer, a tennis coach, a skier, a boxer, a black belt in a martial art etc. My belief is that thanks to regular exercise they have strength and flexibility, and thanks to years of training in their chosen discipline they have learnt how to control their body, and they have learnt how to learn new tricks. I assume that is a stage we all pass through when first learning to do a physical discipline.
  40. 1 point
    Aside from the injected on the 2015 1X skate (which was a manufacturing defect yet I never saw it being a widespread issue) the injected facing has been durable. The few broken ones that I came across where all the result of too big a skate resulting in over cranking to get them tight. Had them on MX3, 1S, and 2S Pro and was a fan. Missing them on my Ultrasonics. My concern is with the design of the HyperLite facing, specifically the cut outs at the top potentially being a weak spot over time. Pretty sure Bauer had a slew of skaters using them as prototypes long before they came to market last year. Whether or not they encountered any issues at all we will never know. I have a few who have gotten them had issues with the tongue.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Unusable, please... For every complaint about breaking there are dozens of skates that are just fine. Oh and BTW. Every company in every market is looking to make products less costly to improve profits.
  43. 1 point
    What size Sprung (A6, A7 or A8)? What size and type of wheels were you using and on what surface? They may not be for you, but there's also a chance they may feel better to you with different wheels. I know one of the first times I used them on sealed concrete, I used wheels that were too soft and it felt like I was skating in mud. After I changed to different wheels they felt way better. Besides wheels, the other key things with Sprungs is that you want to make sure the chassis is mounted a 1/4" more toward the rear than the front. You don't want the mount centered from front to back like you do with some other chassis. If you determine it's not a mounting or wheel issue then reselling them makes sense.
  44. 1 point
    You aren't that advanced in age -- I started playing at 36 with ZERO experience in hockey and less than a year of semi-regular skating. I've put in quite a few hours skating grabbing public skates to get really good at skating. I even took a power skating class this past summer -- I learned the middle and high wchool kids have WAY more energy than I do . I stick handle at home whenever I'm bored or trying to get good at a skill or just puck feel in general. As far as the ceiling I couldn't say, but with a good bit of hard work you can get proficient and be competitive enough to get out and have a good time and feel good about your performance.
  45. 1 point
    Long time lurker, first time poster. My recent build -
  46. 1 point
    The following is from the other side of the fence, something I doubt very few of you have ever seen. Pardon the length but it's relevant. Around a month ago I was at the rink training during a public skate (I adjust my work day so I can skate during the day). A family turned up, the 2 boys hopped on the ice. One of them came up to me and asked for some tips on how to skate. I took one look at how he was standing and thought hmm, this could be interesting. He was from New Caledonia and on holiday visiting our country, ice skating was on the bucket list. He had never skated / skateboard / ski in anything before yet there he stood in crappy plastic / no edge / blunt rink rentals and he was balanced perfectly over the skates. 1 hour later and he could: cross over both sides, 2 foot stop both sides, had an outside edge on corners (the first time I showed him his outside edge he got so deep he fell into it and to the ice) and we were working on his backward crossovers when he had to go. This kid was skating dna on steroids. It didn't matter what I showed him, he got it immediately. To him it was as natural as walking. If I could have signed him up I would have on the spot. He was skating better in one hour than other skaters I know who have been skating for years. Why? Because he was perfectly aligned over the skates blades. It wasn't his skates, it wasn't his strength, it wasn't his skating skill set, it was all down to how naturally he was aligned and balanced over the skate blades. Very rarely do you see someone like this and I have coached thousands of skaters over the years. So the next time you go for a skate in your 2S Pros or you are having a debate as to which stiffness of skate you should buy, have a think about about where your skating ability really sits. As I said in my first post, it's not about the skate.....
  47. 1 point
    Pretty interesting discussion. When I was a teenager, I worked as an instructor at a hockey school run by a former NHL player. The first thing he did when a new group of kids showed up was explain that they should not be tying their skates too tightly. He then had the instructors unlace our skates and run through a couple of drills to demonstrate that the laces are really just there to keep your skates on. The first time you do it is unnerving because you fear that you might break your ankle. After a few minutes you relax and it gets easier. I have no idea if there is any real benefit, but it does let me know if I'm not centred over the blade.
  48. 1 point
    And I had this discussion a while ago with other coaches at a seminar. It's not in US LTP programme, we have never heard about it, that's not what I was taught etc etc are the excuses. Me - Why are you telling the to tie their laces tight? Reply - Oh, because it makes them more stable. Me - Yes - but it doesn't fix the problem..... Yet ask them about a skater who drops 1 eyelet. this is perfectly acceptable. What about a skater who drops 2? Or 3? Or 4? When does this become "I've never heard of that"? Tell that to the young elite NHL skaters coming thru atm and are dropping eyelets. Bottom line is you either give it a go or not, I'm not trying to sell anyone snake oil here or ask you to sign up for a service or training programme or try to take your money. It's free advice based on hard experience and been involved in a (so far) 3 year long varsity research project looking into specifically this issue. And this is the consistent thing, the deniers are those who have NEVER tried it yet everyone who I have had try it (from beginner to experienced) has never said it didn't help..The degrees of improvement are based on your bio mechanics..
  49. 1 point
    If you had asked me this 3 years ago I'd have said this is true. But today imho it's all opinionated bs, just like my comments following. Let me put this out there - IT'S NOT THE SKATE. It's you and your bio mechanics. It's as simple as this even though bio mechanics in skates is a complex issue. If your bio mechanics are correct you can skate in anything - even clods with a frame bolted to them. Stiffness, heel lock, volume, length, forefoot width, profile, hollow etc are all secondary, you don't need this to be anywhere near perfect to skate well. What you need is good body alignment over the skate blade. Yes, stiffer skates will generally help you to skate a little better but they will not TEACH you to skate better. If you want to skate better fix your bio mechanics first, make sure the holder is aligned central to your foot / ankle / knee / hip alignment. Then shim for ankle / knee / hip deviation. This is the quick fix but it comes with some issues, especially for beginning skaters and how their body adapts to skating over time. Or learn to skate with your laces undone, stop using the boot as a crutch / excuse and teach yourself how to balance over the blade. Even holder alignment becomes less important. Add in strength work for legs and core and then you wont care what skate you are in as long as it is comfortable on your foot. Age, sex, size, weight, skating experience and equipment are irrelevant, anyone can learn to do this. Downside is you have to put in the time and effort and it is a long term development, upside is that over time you create the base to become the best skater you can possibly be.
  50. 1 point
    Always ran it with a standard bolt with the anti bolt bounce device. The 60 shoots slow enough, that the 42 mixed it up a bit.

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