noupf

....and that's my worry about the materials used in that skate. I was looing into that the Super Tacks AS1 skates a few years back and came across some threads, as well as YouTube videos that showed the composite materials used in the boot had some issues with cracking and or splitting. I know you blocked a slap shot, but my god, should that even realistically happen to a skate boot? Was it Zedeno Chara shooting at you?

What was the issue with the holders?

Curious to what the pro's and cons are of using all the eyelets on a skate vs dropping down one eyelet ( not using the top eyelet ). I looked a little, but didn't really find out much of why or why not..... I started playing when I was in my mid 20's and at 44, I think I'm a half way decent men's league skater. I've always dropped one eyelet for as long as I can remember. No idea if it helped me or hindered me in terms of skating over the years, but I still drop the one eyelet till this day. However, I've recently thought about it more and more, what benefits would it give, if at all vs not doing it? I seemed to have read that you want as much ankle articulation as possible ( to also help get your knees bent more during the skating stride ) and when I would do a full lace up, i felt like I lost that articular. The few times I have done the full lace up in the past, it was usually due to an ankle injury or pain. My thought process here was to do so bc it would help with the support of the weakened ankle and it usually worked. The downfall though, was I felt like i lost that ankle articulation and it definitely threw off my skating stride. As soon as I was able to, I went right back to the dropped top eyelet. I'm curious though, should I give it a try to see if I can get used to it, if there's a benefit for doing so of course? What does everybody else do or like and why?

I have the Super Tacks version of the 7092. I came from a Bauer Supreme Total one girdle ( about 8 years old ) and I felt like I was strapping on military grade body armour compared to the Bauer. I've gone down and blocked a ton of shots and i feel very little. Its amazing how poor the total one was in terms of protection. The hip protection with the super tacks girdle is good imo with those big ass caps on each side. The tail bone protection is borderline / decent in my opinion.. If i am not mistaken though, I don't think the super tacks girdle is all that much different than your 7092, but i cant imagine there is a girdle with much more protection than the retail super tacks model, unless its pro stock or something. EDIT: Just saw the RBK 9K video.....that may be your best bet.

I usually purchase pro stocks, 95-100 flex. I'm 6'4 230 lbs and have a decent shot for a 44 year old men's league player. I play D and clappers / one timers from the point are my go to, followed by snap shots, then wristers. I play twice a week usually and I'd say about 6-7 months in and I can tell difference in the pop. By a year ( if the stick hasn't snapped or been chopped to death during play ) its usually done in my opinion.

I assume who have seen the new ASV-Pro's....are they as stiff as the AS3 Pros ( hoping you say no ) ?

I saw something online where guys were warming the tow cap with a hair dryer or heat gun a little on both the inside and outside, then shoving a hockey ball or baseball in there just to raise up that the area where the tounge attaches and it worked out well. Just an idea for those who haven't tried it maybe?

yea, something is up with these holders. I compared them to a buddy of mines 100K's last night. He's 220 lbs and been on them from about 6 months now and his blades were almost perfectly straight in the holders. This was after a game too. Might be time to accelerate my skate replacement plan...

double post.

I have a pair of 2013 Graf Ultra G75's that i was about to retire last year, but was able to find brand new cobra 5000 holders for for them. Figured I'd try to refresh the skates with new holders and some step steel blades as I begin looking for and trying on new skates. this year. When i was looking at the skates with the old holders, I noticed that the blades were slightly crooked when holding the skate perfectly straight up and down. I'm 6'4, 230 lbs and figured that 8+ years of skating has worn out the holder and left me with slightly crooked runners, likely from stressing out the plastic holders over the years. Fast forward to my new holders and blades being installed. I noticed right away, after installation, the blades seemed perfectly straight. I could also tell during the first skate that the blades being almost perfectly straight up and down gave me a better push off and stride. However, 10 months later, looking at the skates again from the rear, it looks like the blades are slightly crooked in the holders again. Is this normal? I would assume that a very very slight crooked-ness would happen just from the design of a holder and a blade sliding into it, but its very evident when looking at my skates from the rear again. Its likely just a couple of degrees, but its just about as bad as the older holders / blades were. I am curious if anybody with newer, higher end skates has ever noticed this? Were the cobra 5000 holders weaker, are newer holder stronger? Made this awesome MS Paint image to better show what i mean ( i'm bored at work ). The skate on the right side of the image represents the crooked blade in the holder. https://www.dropbox.com/s/sm8ri2dxk56r5i3/crooked blade in holder.jpg?dl=0 Thoughts ??

good to know, thanks. this is what i was looking for. I almost want to add a the 10 pitch like you said with my grafs to see if it helps me get on my toes just a little more. That's about the only thing i feel is missing from my ellipse profile.

I've never tried the quad. I went with the ellipse bc it made sense in my head to have one long continuous elliptical radius, with out the transitions zones of the 4 radius on a quad. I'm on the border line between quad 2 and quad 1 , depending on who i asked. It seems that quad 2 was recommended for my 288 size runners, but for the ellipse profiles, it was ellipse 1. I was glad to see the ellipse 1 was recommended for the 288 as i didnt wanted a longer profile ( kind of like what you had mentioned about moving down one profile size ). I'm 44 and a decent skater and this is my first time trying a profiled blade. I will never go back and have never felt more stable on my skates. I love the profile, however i did keep catching my toe ever so slightly in that first month or so of skating when carrying the puck and doing crossovers. I've since gotten used to it and have no issues now over the last 10+ months. The only thing i feel like i may want is just a slight pitch forward to get on my toes a little more for acceleration ( which is why i started this thread about pitch on the new line of ccm skates ). Other than that, they are great.

Thanks @PBH. I know you own a hockey shop and do sharpening and profiling. Would you suggest that when I finally select a skate, assuming its a CCM, that I have the new blades profiled with the built in pitch than? I am currently on an ellipse 1 profile with neutral pitch, as i read that my grafs had some pitch already built into the skate.

Just curious if anybody knows what the forward pitch is like on the 100K's, Super Tacks AS3 Pro's and Jet Speed FT4 Pro's. I am looking to get some new skates this year, and I am coming from Graf Ultra G75's. From what I recall, the Grafs have a bit of forward pitch built into them, so when I have my new steel profiled, we had them set at a neutral pitch. I'm just curious if anybody knows what the pitch is like on the CCM skates mentioned above. I am just trying to get an educated starting point for when i get the steel profiled on the new skates.

Thats what i thought. Figured I'd ask anyway. Thanks

yea, when purchasing, those who know, know to ask for more pictures of the shaft and the end label when purchasing if those labels are not shown in the listing. Those who don't know what to ask for or look for, can often times get duped.

Is there a way to find out the lie of pro stock sticks prior to purchasing? I know retail sticks tell you on the shaft, but i've never seen it marked anywhere on pro stocks.

Thanks for all the input everyone. @puckpilotI think you are onto something. I don't feel like trying to reinvent the wheel at this point lol. I'm 6'4 230 lbs and use a 95-100 flex stick depending on brand. Have been toying with the idea of bumping down to an 85-90 flex to see what it would be like. As I'm getting older, along with some aches and pains in the shoulders and elbows, i know for a fact that i dont get my shot off quite as quick or as hard anymore. Maybe going this new route of slightly lower stick flex will help with all of it and I wont have to try as hard.

44 years old and I've played defense almost my entire life, always been a fan of the P88 Bauer curve ( also been using CCM pro stocks with P40 or P80, which is their version of the P88 ). From what I know, the P88/P40/P80's are classified as a mid curve with an almost closed or ever so slightly open face. Using the P88 style curves, from the blue line, on slappers, i can get the puck just about cross bar height or less, as well as just about the right amount of lift on my wrist shots from far out. I'm finding myself playing forward more now and its difficult to really get some lift on my wrist shot in close What would be the next step up in terms of similar curve that has a SLIGHTLY MORE open face than what i am using now? Thanks !

I'm not an expert, and there are a couple guys on here who own hockey shops that do the pro-sharp profiles, but you are correct that the profiles have pitch built in. However, to my understanding, its the skate and or holder that gives you pictch, not the blades you are using necessarily. I am currently using the ellipse 1 profile and had the pitch taken out bc my grafs skates ( again to my understanding ) already had a bit of forward pitch to the way they were designed. I bounced that off the guy who did my profiling on here and he agreed, so we did a neutral pitch. I've never felt more stable on my skates in my life.

Yea man, this ST girdle is the best girdle / pant I've ever owned. Light, mobile and very protective with just a little more bulk than what i upgraded from. I was using a Bauer Total One girdle that I had for the last 5-6 years.....boy o boy was that thing lacking in so many ways compared to the ST. I think ill grab those PP10's from PST and see how they fit. Thanks for the insight everyone.

I think you are correct, but its not in the picture on their website of the ones i was gonna grab... They have 2 listings for PP12 and one has zippers and one doesn't. I'm thinking typo on PSH website https://www.prostockhockey.com/player-protective/shells/size-xl-ccm-pp12-pant-shell-team-stock-toledo-walleye/

Wow, learn something new every day. I thought all shells were created equal. Had no idea there were shells made for girdle systems and shells made for pants ( if i read your comment correctly ). I'm looking for a shell to go over my Super Tacks girdle, which is a little on the bulky side. I ended up selling the Super Tacks shell that came with my girdle as it was just way to restrictive when i put it on. I guess a pant shell would give me that little extra room i want? EDIT: I see they only have two listing for PP12's and they are not remotely the same. They have a PP12 from the Winnipeg jets that looks like the tacks shell i sold from my girdle system, the other PP12 listed looks identical to the PP10. I'm thinking somebody made a typo.

Found some shells I want to grab on pro stock hockey's web site and one is a PP10 and one is a PP12. Does anybody know if one fits differently or measures differently than the other? I'm 6'3, 230 lbs with thicker thighs, so I prefer my shells to be a little more loose than snug.

Thanks for the insight everyone.