althoma1

To me, the Mako is wider in the toe box than Supremes, but the heel is tighter. Makos are also baked longer and are more responsive to heat. Many people use the same size in Bauer and Makos, but some go a half size either way. Personally, I use 8EE Makos and have demoed 7.5EE Supremes. The length felt similar, but the Supremes were too tight on the forefoot and I had slight heel lift. With the Makos, my forefoot is comfortable and my heel is locked in. You will feel shots in Makos, but could buy shot blockers like the ultrastop blockers https://images.app.goo.gl/SfqSFo4uUdhACqfo8 Or use skate fenders.

I agree that the Leafs have more depth and talent and also agree that they'll lose the series. I think Boston will win by playing physical; in a tough playoff series their style works well. If it was a non-contact all-star format; I'd take the Leafs.

I agree with you - the Vapors I've tried on in the past definitely don't fit me as well as Makos and no toe box has ever been as comfortable for my feet as the one on the Makos. With that said, the new 2X Pro toe box looks a little similar from the pictures out there. I have never tried them on; so don't know if they even come close comfort wise.

The toe box on the new Vapor line coming out this year looks similar to the Mako toe box, however; it's not a one piece boot and I don't know if it'll be as responsive to heat.

If the first pair fits well, then absolutely. The only similar skate on the market right now are the True skates that will likely cost you A LOT more.

Yes, the Alkali adult sizes use all 80mm wheels. There is no wheel that will work well on both asphalt and Sport Court. You'll ruin Sport Court wheels on asphalt (they'll wear down really quickly) and any wheels meant for asphalt will be too slippery for Sport Court. I'd just get some super cheap outdoor wheels for skating in the driveway along with some cheap bearings. For Sport Court, Yellow Labeda Grippers are a good budget option or if you want the best wheels I'd recommend Konixx Pure's (+2 hardness for someone your size). I would get a second set of cheap bearings and a second set of spacers for the Sport Court wheels; it makes changing over from asphalt to Sport Court wheels much faster (you should be able to make the swap in less than 10 minutes if you don't have to change the bearings and spacers). These should be the axles you need if your boots didn't come with them: https://www.inlinewarehouse.com/Alkali_Roller_Hockey_Wheel_Axles_/descpage-ALWA.html These would be the spacers: https://www.inlinewarehouse.com/Alkali_Hockey_Bearing_Spacers/descpage-ABSP.html

After using Sprungs I'd never go back to a flat chassis. While it doesn't feel exactly like ice, it's definitely easier to transition between ice and roller with a chassis like Sprung than with a flat chassis.

There's a thread from a few years ago that discusses that question:

The 20% NEWMEMBER code was generic and expired quite a while ago. They have had other one days codes in the past that are shared on social media and are usually for certain products; so you may want to follow them on social media and watch for sales/codes.

Yes, comfort and fit is key. Based on your comments on the VH skates, I would go with True and just ask them to use the measurements they should already have on file since your current VH skates fit so well.

That's strange that the stock 8EE FT1 toe box is fine, but the 8EE/B customs have an issue (I believe most stock skates are D/A or EE/B; so I think an 8EE stock skate would actually have a B heel anyway). Unless they actually make the skates just a touch shorter or used a different toe box? Or maybe the retail FT1 toe box feels fine in the store, but you'd have the same issue with it if you skated on them. When I tried on the 8EE Tacks they actually locked my heel in very well, but the toe box was too narrow for my feet. Every foot is different though and I have read the FT1 has great heel lock. I tried on a D width FT1 at SummerJam and it was waaaay too narrow for my feet in the forefoot area. They didn't bring any EE width skates and I haven't bothered to try on a EE width since I'm not currently in the market for new skates thanks to my Mako stockpile. Besides the two issues you had with the FT1's how did they feel performance wise compared to your VH skates?

If both your feet are the same size (8EE/B) and your only issues are that the depth is even with your feet at the 5th eyelet and the toe box on FT1's, I'm not sure you need customs. Usually the depth is only an issue if your feet are over the eyelets and there are deeper skates than Jetspeeds. It does seem like the Jetspeed toe boxes aren't right for you, but other retail toe boxes may work. I'd probably just try on a bunch of different skates around the 8EE and 8D size (while you're EE in Jetspeed, a D might work in other naturally wider models) and see if anything feels great out of the box without having to go the custom route. With that said, if you have the extra cash and just want to go the custom route then I'd probably lean toward going the VH/True route if you're happy with the fit of those skates. You could just have them make a new pair based on the measurements of your old pair. Out of curiousity, when you did the CCM 3D scan was Jetspeed the recommended line for your feet?

Nothing out currently is close to the weight of the Easton E700. The E700 replaced the S19. The fit system was changed to a Giro bike helmet style system that fit more people. The S19 didn't fit me well, but the E700 is very comfortable. Now, the E700 hasn't been manufactured in close to 5 years; so they'll be hard to come by, but you could always scour the internet for new old stock (sideline swap, ebay, BST sections, FB Marketplace ect.). The Fitlite 3DS mentioned is one of the lighter models that is more recent and even though it's also been discontinued (just last year I believe); it should still be pretty easy to find. The original Bauer Reakt is also a lighter than average model that should be attainable. Neither of these will be as light as the E700 though. I've tried various cages over the years - i2, Itech Titanium, Reakt Titanium and the Fitlite Titanium. Both the Reakt and Fitlite have the flat bars and offer excellent vision. The Fitlite is a bit wider and longer in the same size vs. the Reakt so it fits my face and helmet better and that's the only reason I switched from the Reakt to the Fitlite. I would try on both those cages with your helmet in various sizes if you can and buy the one that fits best. With that said, I do believe the Fitlite Titanium cage was discontinued; so it may be harder to find now than it was a year or two ago.

I like the creative options sublimation opens up, but I don't think the Lightning Jerseys utilize the possibilities. I do like the spray paint sleeves look, but the body of the jersey is too simplistic and makes it look more like a practice jersey. Personally, I'd go all the way with the sublimation and have a full blown thunderstorm on the main body of the jersey with subtle colour gradients for the sky and clouds and lightning strikes throughout. With that said, my tastes lean more toward crazy concept sublimation jerseys than traditional simple NHL jerseys.

I've used various wheels over the years (Rink Rat, Revision ect.) and have found the Konixx Pure wheels to be more durable than average. They feel harder and faster, but still grip as well as other wheels. I've never had a hub separate (and have used Konixx for almost 2 years now), but I do get the small splits after a lot of use (I both ref and play year round; so use them A LOT). So I'd give those a shot if you haven't already.

JR owns Modsquad, managed a Total Hockey store and worked in the hockey industry for years before that, including a stint in the equipment department for the Tampa Bay lightning. I believe he also played inline in college. So your skates would be in excellent, very knowledgeable hands if you send them to JR.

Send them to JR. He offers that service in the Pro Shop.

I was thinking the same thing. The lace wrap also makes me cringe, but hey; he's a pro and I'm just a crappy beer league player. So if it works for him then it works.

See the post in this thread from Nov 30th - I linked to it above for easy access. It's possible to repair it if you find someone who knows what they're doing.

The Tron Visors are fine. I used to use one when I first started officiating and it worked well. I switched to a Bauer Pro clip to have one that is CSA certified for Hockey Canada insurance purposes, but I don't notice a big difference in vision or performance. It is convenient to be able to take the visor off to clean it and replacing a scratched visor takes seconds rather than minutes. I use a helmet bag to protect both the helmet and visor.

Custom guides. There are companies with very detailed custom options, but they don't always have detailed images and descriptions of those options. Warrior custom sticks is one example; they offer a lot of stick finishes, textures and curves, but I don't see any pictures or detailed descriptions beyond the names in the customizer tool. There are threads here where members have helpfully posted pictures of grip types, but you have to search through a very long thread to find the images. Having a walk through for various products (Warrior custom sticks, Warrior custom gloves, Base custom sticks, True custom skates) with detailed descriptions and pictures of every option would be helpful for anyone ordering a custom product. As mentioned, most of this information is available in various threads, but taking all of that out and putting it in one or two posts on one page would be great. Of course, having all of those available on the manufacturer pages would be great as well, but I think there are currently gaps. It's fantastic to have a lot of options, but it's hard to decide what to order without having full descriptions and pictures of those options.

Glad to hear they're remaking them smaller. Did they determine how the original sizing was so off? Was the scanner incorrectly calibrated or was it another reason? Was the solution of foam taped in addressed? I hope the remade skates fit perfectly and work well for you, but I am still curious to know how the first skates ended up so large.

I am not a mounting expert. If your LHS says there is a mounting issue; I believe you. It's obvious to everyone they're too big; so they should be remade with an accurate scan and measurements and a new holder would have to be mounted at that time anyway (as you'd likely go down a holder size).

I'm not seeing holder issues on Smu's skates either, but it's obvious from the pictures of your feet on the insoles and the sizing difference between your old skates and the Trues that they're at least a full size too long. That's definitely a big issue that shouldn't be solved by taping some foam in the end. The skates should be remade at the proper length. If you have holder mounting requests then do that at the same time, but any holder issues seem minor compared to the obviously way too long skates.

If you read through earlier posts in this thread where people mention sizing, most people are the same size in Makos as current Bauer models. There are a few people who go up a half a size (I'm one of them - I found a 7.5EE would be the best fit for me in Bauer and wear 8EE in Makos.); so there's no guarantee without trying them on, but it seems about 90% of the sizing posts mention consistent sizing between Bauers and Makos as far as length goes. So your best bet is a 7D Mako if the 7D Bauers fit well. They'll likely feel too small before you bake them and you may have a hard time even getting them on; you won't know if they actually fit until you have them properly baked. If you do decide to grab a pair of 7D Makos, I'd recommend going for the second generation Mako II (or it's little brothers the M8 or M7) vs. the original Mako. There were durability issues with the original Makos that were addressed with the second release. The padding on the originals had a tendency to compress on the outside near the ankle and many people also had cracking issues with that model. I'd jump on the FB deal for $375 CAD for the Mako II, but wouldn't consider the originals for anything more than $150 as they just don't hold up as well.