althoma1

I don't think the Makos would get hot enough for a proper bake if you turned the oven off. It doesn't sound like they did. When mine came out of my convection oven (which I left on the entire time at 200 on the convection setting) they felt very pliable - almost like Play-Doh. If you have a convection oven, I'd bake them again at 200 F with the cookie sheet. If you only have a regular oven then get yourself to a store. Some stores actually bake for free - I know Sport Chek does in Canada and Total Hockey does in the US. If you don't have a convection oven or one of those stores near you then I'd still make the 45 minute drive and pay the $30 - you'll hopefully use these for 100s of hours on the ice; so that 45 minute drive and $30 will be worth it to have skates that are designed to be baked, baked properly. I also don't think a blow dryer would get hot enough for effective spot heating. You want a heat gun (the kind you'd use to heat up a shaft to insert or remove an extension or blade...or some people use for non-hockey related things like stripping wallpaper) for that. The sizing looks fine based on that one picture - if you can brush your toes on the end of the box with them laced up then you probably have the right size. The Makos feel aggressively forward pitched to me, but if you want to use superfeet with them then make sure to put those in right after baking. Keep in mind that you'll loose a bit of depth with the super feet as they'll take up some volume due to the plastic heel on them. Put in whatever insole you plan to skate with right after you take them out of the oven.

Gummer is on the money with the modern ovens. With the older ones that look like the Blademaster you just ask them to set it to 200 degrees F. Ideally you'll find an oven at a store and do it there - if you end up doing it at home then definitely don't use a conventional oven as it won't properly distribute the heat. If you have an oven with a convection oven (a fan inside that moves the warm air around) then it's possible to do it carefully at home, but it has it's risks and will void the warranty. With a convection oven you place one rack in the middle rung (or perhaps one lower - you want enough room that the skates will not touch any part of the oven or other racks) and remove the other racks. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees F on the convection mode. Put a damp tea towel on a flat cookie sheet or a pizza tray and then put the skates on that after you've loosened the laces (so you can slide the insole and then your feet in easily after taking them out of the oven) and removed the insoles. At the half way point (5 minutes if you're leaving them in for a total of 10 minutes...I went with a 16 minute total as that's what was on the original boxes) flip them over so that both sides are heated evenly. If you have someone with you then you can grab one skate out when the total time is completed and turn the oven off (leaving the other skate in the warm oven) and go sit down and tie that up. Once you have the first skate tied you can have the other person bring you the second skate (it shouldn't be more than a minute or so). I had my current Mako ice skates baked at the store I purchased them from for 10 minutes. I picked up a pair of barely used Makos to convert to roller and baked those at home with a convection oven for a total of 16 minutes (flipped at the 8 minute mark) because there would be no warranty anyway since they were being converted and were already used. The ones I use for roller actually feel a little more comfortable, but that's probably down to the longer bake time. I could rebake the ones I use for ice, but haven't as they're still quite comfortable - I only spot heated one area carefully with a heat gun and pushed it out with my thumb. When I was wearing KOR skates I had a few baked at stores and some baked at home and the results were very similar, but the ones I baked at home were all done after the company was out of business and no warranty would apply. So it's definitely possible to bake at home if you have a convection oven and are careful, but there's more risk and any warranty will be voided. I would recommend baking your skates at a shop if possible since you're using them as ice skates and there's still a company to support the Easton warranty since Bauer purchased Easton.

Did you move on from Makos or are you using Bauer holders on Mako skates? If you moved on, what did you pick up and do they fit and feel as good as the Makos? The mislabelled steel is a shame, but at least one of the two sets looks good and I'm sure they'll rectify the problem with the other set.

I have had several conversions done and have never plugged the holes or had issues with that. You're more likely to have wet spots from where people fall or if people spill drinks on the bench. Unless you're a very heavy sweater I highly doubt you'll have issues with a few old rivet holes.

If they're only a bit tight with some mild pressure then the D width should be fine after a bake as the Makos are very responsive to heat. If they feel like your foot is being squeezed by a vice then you might want to go with the wider size. I have them in EE myself, but have a very wide forefoot and need EE in most brands. If you usually wear a D in most skates then you'll likely need a D in Makos as well.

Yes, most skates use a U shaped toe box. The Makos toe box is the most anatomical and best fitting toe box I've ever had the pleasure of using. The only other skates I've owned that came close to being as comfortable for me as the Makos were the KOR Shift 1's and the Torspo Surge 221's. They both fall short of the Mako though because neither used an anatomical toe box. The built in heat responsive footbeds in the Shift 1's were a nice touch, but a Bauer speedplate in the Makos could potentially replicate that.

Side to side in the toe box or above your toes? If it's the latter then you could try using powerfoot inserts as they're meant to fill up that space. My KOR Shift 2's were squeezing my foot were the cap met the boot and causing a blister between my two smallest toes. Moving to a EE Mako definitely solved that problem as the toe cap is wider and more ergonomic. It certainly doesn't feel sloppy to me though, but I have a wide forefoot.

It depends where you're located. If you're in Canada then Dylan at Just Hockey in Toronto has done a great job on a few conversions I've had done there over the years. If you're in another country then you're probably better off finding someone skilled at mounting in that country to save on shipping costs.

Based on the other threads I gather there is a Mako replacement that will have a different name. Based on Buzz's comment I'm guessing that this new replacement may not be ready for the 2016 booking season. If that's the case it may be delayed and not come out in the spring when most other new skates launch perhaps it'll be released later in the year or pushed back into 2017. I have no personal knowledge of this - just reading between the lines and forming my own hypothesis.

I think you're asking what hollow you should use rather than radius. Radius is the contour of the blade from front to back (CXN holders have a 9' radius stock). I think if you want to try FBV then 90/75 would probably be a good starting point.

I'm hoping the paint jobs aren't the only thing you can customize and custom curves like the previous customizer are available. I was enjoying the P46 on the CCM stick at Winterfest, but the Smyth and Gionta are still my two all time favourite curves. I've tried to love the E/W/P 28 style curves and they're OK, but I really prefer a more closed mid-toe or toe like the Smyth and Gionta.

If you really can't get to a store to try anything on and your old skates are too big then before you order you may want to measure your feet and post the results. Take a plain piece of computer paper and put it against the wall. Put your foot against the wall on the paper with your heel touching the wall and trace your foot. Do this with both feet (either bare foot or with very thin socks - don't do it with thick socks on) and then measure the longest point and widest point of both feet. If you post those you'll likely get more accurate advice as shoe sizes vary based on preference (some people wear them tighter than others).

The Mako 2, M8 and M7 fit exactly the same as the original Makos. You should be able to find those in a store to try on. The Mako box suggests going 1.5 sizes down from shoe size - eg. my 8EE Makos say they're for someone with a 9.5 shoe, however; I usually wear a 10 wide dress shoe, 10 sandals and a 10 or 10.5 running shoe depending on the fit. If you're a 10.5 or 11 shoe size, are you sure the 10.5 S17s aren't too big? Most people usually drop down 1.5 to 2 sizes for skates vs. shoe size. Do your toes brush the caps? When you unlace the skates and push your foot all the way forward, how much room do you have at the back? (I'd use a pencil to test this). Based on shoe size only I'm guessing you'd probably need around a 9 Mako (give or take a half size either way); I'd go to a store that carries any line of Makos and try on an 8.5, 9, 9.5 in both D and EE widths. Keep in mind that the skates are very responsive to heat and any minor tight spots will loosen up once they're baked.

I was using a 7/8" hollow (close to 1") before switching to FBV and have been quite happy with the 90/50 cut in FBV. 90/75 was too deep for my tastes. Those are the only two cuts I've tried, but I've had no reason to try anything other than 90/50 FBV. With the 90/50 FBV cut I feel I get even more glide than with the 90/75 and, more noticeably, it's easier to switch from forward and to backward skating (less prominent edges). Stops also have no chatter for me with a properly done 90/50 cut, but get some with 90/75. I'm not a small guy at 6'2" and over 200lbs though and have always preferred a shallower hollow since I discovered hollows over 10 years ago when I joined the MSH site. Growing up I'd just get the standard cut once or twice a season - I now sharpen then every month or two since I'm getting a suitable hollow put on.

A D width Nexus is like a EE in most other models. Try the EE width Makos in 7.5 and 8 and see how they feel.

We'll probably start seeing details sometime between mid-December and February and the skate will likely be released in May or June of 2016. That's not based on any hard facts, only previous skate releases. I've demoed the Supreme skates - they're good skates, but they don't have the same wrap and running shoe like feel of the Makos. I'm always open to demoing other skates, but unless I'm really blown away I could never see going back to a non-speed skate based skate like the Makos or VH. If your Makos 1's are wearing out I'd either try to hunt down a clearance pair in your size or wait until the Mako 2's drop in price sometime next year. If money is no object then you could also consider the custom VH route.

It was in the 2015 Easton catalogue thread and it's more than anecdotal considering it was JR that said a new skate will be released that won't carry the Mako name. JR is a manager at a major chain store and has strong connections within the industry. He likely knows more than what he's said so far, but to keep his strong relationships with manufacturers won't release further details until he's given the green light.

What Optimus said - you're in the range of a 6.5 (and likely a D, but again you can't know without trying them on), but could be a 6 or 7 - each skate line has a different last and everyone has different feet. You won't really know until you try them on and even then you won't know for sure until after you've baked them since the Makos are so responsive to heat.

Based on the measurements you provided I think you'd be fine in a D Mako if the Mako last fits your foot well. You would likely take a 6.5D Mako - try on a variety of sizes and get them baked if you can before making a decision, but that size is a good starting point for your foot size. Trying on sizes above and below that in both widths makes sense and then when you have it narrowed down to one or two sizes you can ask if the shop will bake both so you can make your final decision.

Yes, you're right. The silver heels/outsole on the originals is texalium and resin and the Mako 2 is carbon fiber and resin. I've edited my post to reflect this - the basic premise of the original Makos being stiffer and lighter, but possibly less durable than the M7 should still be valid though.

The original Mako and the M7s both use the same holder, steel and last. The liner doesn't seem that different based on pictures with the exception of the colour. The M7 uses fiberglass and thermoplastic resin and the original Mako uses texalium (fiberglass with a coating of aluminum) and thermoplastic resin. The Mako is around 100g lighter than the M7 and I imagine it would be stiffer as high end skates are almost always stiffer than lower models in a similar line. With that said, I haven't personally used or held the M7. The newer models also have new tongues, insoles and they added more padding around the ankles. Some people did experience "Mako bumps" around the ankles with the original skates and solved this by wearing things like ezfit ankle boots and others had durability issues that were addressed through warranty. I've only had my original Makos since February, but haven't experienced either of these issues. So with the original Mako you'd get a stiffer, lighter skate than the M7, but it may not be as durable (more likely to have the composite crack). The M7 would be more flexible and a bit heavier, but could potentially be more durable. Both come with a standard 90 day warranty on the boot, but there have been cases mentioned in this thread where Easton helped customers out beyond this window. Personally, I went with the original Mako because I picked them up for close to $200 and appreciate the extra stiffness and responsiveness because I'm an experienced skater who weighs over 200lbs. I see in the other thread you're a beginner who weighs 170lbs and the price difference isn't as vast for you; so you might be better off with the M7s.

Two sets is ideal - that way you don't have to keep switching wheels. I have two skates with Sprungs (one set of KORs and one Makos), but primarily use the Makos and switch wheels simply because the Makos are a bit more comfortable for me (KORs pinch a bit where the toe box meets the boot...wouldn't be a problem for most people. I just have a very wide forefoot and the EE Makos with the ergonomic toe box accomidate that better). Even if you don't have spare arms, the fact that you have two sets means you won't be stuck if you do end up cracking a knuckle or breaking an arm eventually. With the amount I skate I take apart and clean the skates and soak the parts about once a month. If you're only skating once a week indoors on them I can see getting away with longer intervals and blowing the dust off should help. More frequent cleaning would be needed for more skating and of course if you ever skate outdoors they should be cleaned very frequently since the grit found outdoors can cause more friction wear than the light indoor dust. Leaving dirt in them for too long (especially outdoor grit) can cause the front arms to really loosen due to friction where and the suspension won't feel as tight. Once or twice a week for a year and only fully taking them apart and soaking them a couple times a year with no breaks is great. I know most of the durability issues were with the original A6 knuckles and the A7 and A8 were always more durable. The newer A6 arms have knuckles that are similar in size to the A7s. Having had knuckles crack with the old A6 arms has just conditioned me to always carry a spare arm or two with me, but the need to replace them has certainly decreased with the new A6 arms.

That's good to hear. Have you been cleaning and soaking the parts? If so, how often? How often do you usually skate with your Sprungs? I know the A7 and A8 were always more durable than the old A6. The new A6 I have has held up fairly well, but I have had a couple knuckles crack after about a year and a half of heavy use (although that's at least 50% less than I likely would've had with the old A6 arms based on previous experiences). I am not a light weight though and have been skating on them A LOT between refereeing and playing. For the summer roller season reffing 12 games and playing in 1 or 2 in a week wasn't uncommon - when there were tournaments I skated in 20 plus games in a week. The new A6 arms are more durable than the old ones, but for someone who's on his skates as much as I am, I wouldn't feel comfortable without a couple spare arms in my bag.

They've had the Sprung A6 (aka A6X) complete chassis available for a while and there are still 82 in stock according to the website, but the A6 rocker arms are showing as out of stock when you go to the parts page - it's been that way for quite some time. So as of now the only way to get the newer A6 (aka A6X) arms is to buy the complete chassis unless they're willing to cannibalize some of the arms off the 82 in stock to sell separate rocker arms (one would have to email someone at Sprung to ask about that). This is just conjecture, but I think it's a funding issue. In order to get a parts order from China for a good rate they likely have to place an order that's several thousand dollars. If they don't have that money they're likely hoping to sell more of their current stock of A6, A7 and A8 chassis and attempt to get licencing or OEM deals (which aren't easy to come by) in order to raise the funds. The problem is, if you don't have spare parts in stock people like Archangel are understandably less likely to buy the existing chassis stock for A6 or A7 chassis. In an ideal world they'd have the funding to order plenty of spare parts now which would help them sell their exiting stock. My solution to the spare rocker arm issue was to buy a couple new A6 chassis when another member had them for sale here for a good price even though I already owned an A6 chassis. Now I should have enough extra parts to last several years.

Moving your fingers down to the radio controls isn't that difficult and is what I did for the first 15 years or so of driving, but once you get a car with the wheel controls it's hard to go back. You can change songs or stations with your thumb without taking your hand off the wheel or looking down. It's not only more convenient, but it's safer. It's definitely an option I'll be looking for in all cars going forward.