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Everything posted by althoma1

  1. I have used a lot of different indoor wheels over the years and Konixx Pure +2 are by far my favourites. They're fast, durable and grip well. I haven't tried the new Pure X yet, but look forward to doing so in the future.
  2. I hope they can prove me wrong, but I just don't see it working. If an N95 mask gets wet then it's much harder to breath through it. It's already harder to breathe through a mask, but once you start sweating it will become even worse; so if the filtration is similar to an N95 mask, players will either have to remove the masks to breathe or some may start passing out. If they can come up with something that filters the virus while still allowing you to breath well (even after being soaked in sweat) and doesn't have major fogging issues that'd be great, but I'm pessimistic. Let's say the mask is perfect; you still have to deal with being in change rooms and the helmets have to come off eventually (even if you put on another mask right after taking off your helmet there has to be at least a few seconds where you have no mask on). Also, how do you drink water through the mask? If you try to go through the whole game without drinking water then you'll have dehydration issues.
  3. I can't shed any light on the RX3 gloves as I've never worn those, but I do have both Pro and retail versions of the Surgeon 500 gloves and can tell you that those are definitely tighter than the Stallion 500 gloves (predecessor to the HPR line) that I tried on. The Surgeon 500 gloves are tight in the fingers and backhand, but open up quite a bit in the cuff.
  4. For indoor inline I either tape like I normally would for ice and then use an exacto knife to cut off the bottom strip of tape (I cut carefully along both sides of the blade a touch about the bottom and then peel off the bottom strip) or I'll just put a few horizontal strips of overlapping tape across the front and back if I'm feeling too lazy to use the exacto knife. I hate the feeling of tape on the bottom of the stick for inline, but some people actually play like that. Outdoors it wears off very quickly and then feels usable, but on a smooth indoor surface it won't really wear off and I definitely notice the increased friction. Bottom line; I think you're fine taping as usual if you don't mind spending a little time with the extra friction, but when you retape you could get rid of the bottom strip of tape before even using it.
  5. I have always had my conversions done at a LHS with rivets, but the key for a Sprung mount is that the chassis needs to be mounted 1/4" more to the rear of the boot (with most other chassis the mount is centered). You can find the full installation instructions here: https://modsquadhockey.com/forums/topic/65472-sprung-question/?do=findComment&comment=994730 There's also this thread about converting inlines that mentions the use of t-nuts https://modsquadhockey.com/forums/topic/44573-how-to-do-a-ice-to-roller-conversion/?do=findComment&comment=652410
  6. Tacki Mac Pro Ribbed aka Kane grip. It's the thinnest version with the smallest knob and provides good feel, reduces glove wear and is much cheaper than other non-tape options. Edit: the rocketgrip looks exactly like sniper skin https://www.prohockeylife.com/collections/hockey-stick-grips/products/fox40-sniper-skin-hockey-stick-grips?variant=21193324789837
  7. I believe that they're just clearing out their current inventory and are focusing on a new Fizix chassis. The Fizix looks like an updated Sprung made of magnesium. It's still in the development stages though. Search for Fizix on FB and you can see the drawings.
  8. That's a good price for a shaft and 2 blades, but it'd be a better deal for outdoor use if the blades had an ABS core instead of being composite and fibreglass. Fibreglass/composite will wear a lot faster than ABS on asphalt.
  9. The True shaft seems like a great option on clearance. Some people seem to have durability issues with that Sherwood blade (snapping at the hosel) if you read the reviews. The Frontier F-Xover ABS blade seems to hold up better based on the reviews and it's only a couple bucks more, I'd probably grab that one instead: https://www.icewarehouse.com/Frontier_F-Xover_ABS_/descpage-FXABS.html
  10. There are a few standard shafts on Icewarehouse: https://www.icewarehouse.com/Hockey_Shafts/catpage-HOCSHAFTS.html icewarehouse also has some ABS replacement blades (both standard and tapered) listed on this page: https://www.icewarehouse.com/Hockey_Blades/catpage-HOCBLADES.html Base makes some tapered shafts, but don't sell tapered ABS blades (there are a few tapered ABS blades on the IW page though): https://basehockey.ca/collections/shafts The actual shafts I own are well over 10 years old. I've also converted a few older one piece sticks to either standard or taper shafts; this was easier to do several years ago with sticks that were actually fused 2 piece sticks. It's harder to do with true one piece sticks, although you could cut off the blade, flip them upside down and insert a standard blade into the top of the stick - this would throw off the kick point and I'd never do this for any competitive play, but could work for just messing around in the driveway or street. The blades, I also picked up years ago (mostly on clearance) and haven't shopped for a new blade in quite some time as I have been only playing on sport court or ice for several years. You can use the old Easton wood/ABS stick outdoors. It may be a wood stick with an ABS blade - if it has an ABS blade it should hold up pretty well. Yes, those wood/ABS combos are quite heavy. I have one that I only used once or twice that I picked up on sale; I couldn't stand it after a couple of uses since I'm spoiled by composite sticks now. A blade/shaft combo isn't as light as a true one piece, but it's way lighter than wood/ABS sticks. I would not try to heat and recurve the blade. You'll likely just decrease the durability or even snap it during the attempt.
  11. Asphalt will chew up unprotected composite blades in short order. Wood will splinter and wear quickly as well. So you want a shaft and ABS blade, a stick with an ABS blade or buy a wraparound and replace it as it wears. Personally, I use composite shaft with ABS blades when playing on asphalt or slightly gritty concrete. For Sport Court, you can use a regular one piece stick - I cut the strip of tape off the bottom of the blade so there's less drag and one piece sticks still hold up well on Sport Court. I have never had a composite blade wear down on sport court; the stick lasts until the blade or shaft breaks. Edit: If you're using inlines, you'll also want to have wheels that were designed for sport court and have another set to use on asphalt. Trying to use one set for both surfaces is a bad idea. If you use a sport court set an asphalt they'll wear out really quickly and become useless on sport court. If you use a set designed for asphalt on sport court you'll have no grip and will be sliding and falling all over the place. Some good outdoor options are Labeda or Revision Asphalts, Revision Clingers, Konixx and Red Star Rockets. Some good sport court options are Konixx Pure (my personal favourites -they're expensive, but perform and last longer than anything I have used) at the upper tiers, Revision Variant or Steel for a mid-range dual pour wheel or Labeda Grippers for a more budget friendly single pour option. Just stay away from things like the HiLo multisurface wheels that come on a lot of the low end Bauer skates (I mean, use them up if you have them, but don't buy another set when they wear out). I've seen a lot of hub separation with those in the leagues I play and ref in and the players that use them always notice a big difference when they upgrade to a better sport court wheel. If you want to cut corners somewhere; do it with the outdoor wheels. You could get a bunch of cheap unbranded outdoor wheels in the 82a to 86a durometer range and use them on asphalt. They'll probably wear down faster than the more expensive outdoor options and may be more prone to hub separation, but asphalt kills all wheels sooner or later anyway. You'll notice a bigger difference with better sport court wheels vs. the cheaper options and the sport court wheels should last much longer if you only use them on the sport court and never on asphalt.
  12. When I bought my Sprungs new they included a couple extra pivot pins and bolts. So the bag of hardware in the listing may already have one or two extras; you could ask the seller.
  13. I use converted ice boots and they work just fine. There are a few models of inlines like the Mission Inhalers that have a bit more ventilation (and the custom True skates have a ventilated toe cap), but most inline skates don't have extra ventilation. Some inline skates have extra wear patches near the forefoot which can be helpful for durability outdoors, but a well fitting pair of ice skates converted with the chassis should work well for most people. The specs for the Revel 1 and Revel 2 are on Inlinewarehouse. Just focus on the boot specs and ignore the wheels, bearings and frame info: Revel 1: https://www.inlinewarehouse.com/Alkali_Revel_1/descpage-R1RS20.html Heritage: New Level of Play Guideline: Elite Skate Fit Guidelines: Medium Volume / standard heel pocket - standard forefoot - mid instep Quarter Package: Heatmoldable Revel IX with Pro Plus Stiffness Comfort Collar Liner: Moisture-wicking Clarino Tongue Construction: Two-Piece 9mm Pro Felt Outsole: Stiff Carbon Fiber Revel 2: https://www.inlinewarehouse.com/Alkali_Revel_2/descpage-R2RS20.html Heritage: New Level of Play Guideline: Elite Skate Fit Guidelines: Medium Volume/medium heel pocket - standard forefoot - standard instep Quarter Package: PU with Revel IX Technology Elite-level stiffness and responsiveness for higher-end hockey IX Tech provides a more anatomical, performance-focused fit with the new injection construction process Flexible tendon guard, forward boot rake (or lean) and toe spring all help promote the ideal roller hockey stride Heat moldable for a custom fit and reduced break-in time Comfort Edge collar padding to alleviate ankle irritation Liner: Brushed Tricot for comfort, moisture-management and durability Tongue Construction: Two-piece, Vented Pro Felt Thick design protects the top of the foot from impacts and lace-bite Ventilated center to promote consistent airflow Outsole: Stiff TPR Plastic with Composite Overlay Delivers a perfect balance of lateral support and forgiveness They also have a sizing chart. With previous Alkali lines, most people felt they fit a half size up from Bauer skates (meaning someone who fits and 8 Bauer would take an 8.5 Alkali), but I don't know if anything has changed with the new line. Alkali General Sizing Guidelines:Alkali Skates generally fit 1.5 sizes down from your regular shoe size SENIOR ALKALI SKATE SIZING CHART Alkali Size Length in CM US Men's Shoe US Women's Shoe 6.0 25.1 7.5 9.0 6.5 25.5 8.0 9.5 7.0 26.0 8.5 10.0 7.5 26.4 9.0 10.5 8.0 26.8 9.5 11.0 8.5 27.2 10.0 11.5 9.0 27.7 10.5 12.0 9.5 28.1 11.0 12.5 10.0 28.5 11.5 13.0 10.5 28.9 12.0 13.5 11.0 29.4 12.5 14.0 11.5 29.8 13.0 14.5 12.0 30.2 13.5 15.0 12.5 30.6 14.0 15.5 13.0 31.0 14.5 16.0
  14. I saw that on Facebook a few minutes ago. A few things came to mind: If it's a full shield that actually filters air, I would think it'd be very hot and may have fogging issues. Maybe they're just going to bring the Danny Heatley super long visor back Remember the price of the Bauer Neurosheild concussion collar? I imagine this will be in the same price range which will make it unaffordable for many
  15. As far as playing with them when they're in good condition; it's all upside. The downside with Sprungs is maintenance and to an extent durability. I used my original A6 chassis for about 4 years before I retired it, but probably went through at least one complete set of rocker arms during that time. There were a few reasons for this: The knuckles on the A6 arms were a weak point on the original version. The new version (launched 5 plus years ago) has beefed up knuckles with tighter tolerances. When I first started using them I didn't realize you had to condition them or clean them every once in a while (about once a month is good) and when the plastic gets dry it's more likely to break. I'm bigger/heavier than the average player and was jumping over the boards on changes like I do on ice, but now I just go through the door to avoid putting extra stress on the knuckles. Also, if you don't take apart and clean the chassis on a regular basis the dirt that gets inside will cause friction and wear down the part of the chassis that holds the arms as well as the outside of arms themselves. This isn't as big of a problem where the rear arms are connected as the connection point is deeper. It's more of a problem in the front where the connection point is shallower - if you don't clean them regularly then they'll loosen up quite a bit after a few years. You'll still be able to use them, but they won't be as responsive as when they were new. If you're using them outside you should clean them even more often as the dirt you'll find outside is generally more abrasive than the dirt and dust on indoor courts. With all of that said, I still wouldn't move to a flat chassis unless I had no other options. Only two of the new beefed up rocker arms have broken on me in the five plus years I have used them. They're wearing well, but I also clean and condition them about once a month and haven't jumped over the boards with them. The tolerances are tighter and the springs are stiffer so they also feel faster and more responsive. A member on another forum used both the O1 Marsblade and Sprungs and prefered Sprungs for playing: Having used both and playing semi pro hockey, I find the sprungs to be ultimate in terms of performance. Gives your quick feet an edge. However reliability is another issue. I go through these like a faze. (220 5’10) I’m not a huge guy but I play competitive inline in Canada and im hard on my feet. My sprungs were done after 2 seasons. I used mars for one season and I didn’t like the way there “rocker” sat. Put me on the toes of my feet too much. Preference for me is the sprungs, however it’s subjective. I know players who swear by marsblades. The high level players that have demoed the Marsblade R1 love that though; so it seems like a great option if you're willing to wait until Aug/Sept. In this YouTube interview, John Schiavo discusses the difference between the O1 and R1 as well as vs. a flat chassis: The inventor of Sprungs has drawings of a new and improved Fizix chassis on Facebook, but there's no telling when or if that will be available.
  16. I started playing roller in the 90s as well and have used a flat chassis, the Tuuk Rocker and Sprungs. The Sprungs see a suspension system to help with grip, turns, starts and stopping. You wouldn't have to learn to skate again if you switched to Sprungs, you would just be able to take turns tighter and could potentially lengthen your stride with a toe flick. I haven't used Marsblades, but my understanding is that the O1 out now is designed for off ice training and has a smaller radius. It's also much heavier than Sprungs or a flat chassis. The new R1 chassis is designed for playing inline and has an insert that allows you to adjust the radius. My personal choice would be Sprungs as that is what I use and prefer and the only other chassis I would seriously consider is the Marsblade R1. I just can't see going back to a flat chassis after using Sprungs for so long.
  17. V350 is the code. It's generic. You don't need the email.
  18. The email has a promo code, V350, that gives you 50% off. I think Andy Sutton might be a part owner, but suspect Chris Malki, who owns Hockeytron, is still very much involved as he shared the Verbero stick announcement on Facebook. I do hope they produce the Verbero Shield shoulder pads again so I can grab a backup pair at some point. I love mine and they're in great condition, but don't want to be forced to go back to a traditional pad anytime soon.
  19. I believe it was $99 US before and $115 CAD. Now it's $139 US and $160 CAD. Originally all the R1 preorders (just chassis, chassis with wheels and full boot) were 50% off and now they're 30% off. The site suggests there are limited numbers available at certain discounts; so the discount will likely decrease further as time goes on.
  20. Why don't you love the inline versions as much as your ice True skates? Is it due to the chassis or are there differences in the boots themselves?
  21. The old Warrior Dolomite Kovalchuk pro stock stick I had with a more closed mid-toe hook (not like most of his current sticks that use a more open P28 type pattern with more hook). I loved the curve for both shooting and stick handling. The retail Smyth curve is similar and I still have a few of those, but it's not exactly the same as the specific pro stock I had. That was a tough choice as there's a lot of gear I love including: Mako skates, Kor Shift 1 skates, 2012 Projekt elbows, Easton E700 helmets, Farrell/Verbero shoulders. I considered all of those as my top choice, but still have all of those, with the exception of the KORs and if there's one thing I wish I could have back it's that old Kovy pro stock. If we include roller hockey then I'd also consider saying the Sprung chassis, but I still have that.
  22. Yes, I'd love to hear your thoughts on the new version vs. Sprungs and the originals (as I'm sure many others would). Of course, by then the presale price will be gone. In the meantime, what are your thoughts on the OG Marsblades vs. Sprungs?
  23. The new Alkali Revel line is Hilo as well. So either the patent expired or both Marsblade and Alkali found a loophole.
  24. The promotional video looks good, however; I'd like to hear more about the specific details of the product. Obviously the lower portion is aluminum and it's hi lo (80mm 80mm 76mm 76mm for the medium and large chassis), but were there other changes vs. original off ice training model?
  25. Yes, Fizix is what I have been waiting for - an improved aluminum version of Sprungs. It seemed to be in the prototype stage in 2018, but I don't think he had the money to produce them. Now I see there's a new prototype on the Fizix FB page, but again, funding for production could be an issue if he doesn't find a person or company to fund that. Sprungs are great, but it'd be nice to have an aluminum version where you don't have to clean them regularly to avoid friction wear.
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