althoma1

Well, the TF9s have the same specs as the customs; they're just built on a standard last. I'm sure pros can get specs the average player can't, however; some pros will essentially wear custom TF9s. I don't think any pros would bother with a retail skate unless it was an emergency situation. When you're getting paid to perform your best; custom makes the most sense.

STX Surgeon pro stock gloves are tight in the fingers and backhand, but open up in the cuff. They're also protective. There are new ones on SLS now for around $120 US or less. I am a fan of tight gloves and my previous gloves include Warrior Projekts, Easton HSX, Nike Bauer One90s and Miken Razor Z9. The Surgeons are by far my favourites. For wear issues, I second the Tacki Mac recommendation. I like the pro ribbed aka Kane grip.

IW has free return shipping for rewards members. You could order a couple pairs in the sizes you think will fit best, then try them both on when they arrive, bake the one you think is the better fit and if you're right then send back the other pair. As long as the other pair isn't sharpened or used; they'll take it back. Hell, you could likely even bake them and as long as you don't sharpen or use them you might be able to return them, but YMMV on that. Then if you figure out your size that way and like the fit, you should still have time to order another pair before the promotion ends on Sept. 6. It's your cash, but if you're on the fence do to sizing doubts, that seems like a good option.

Maybe this worked earlier, but I think they changed it. I added a pair of TF9's to the cart and there's a black bar underneath that says, "THIS ITEM IS NOT ELIGIBLE FOR ADVERTISED DISCOUNTS." You can enter the True rebate code if you proceed to checkout, but you can't stack the discounts. If you were able to order before with both discounts and they honoured it; you got a great deal! Even with just the True rebate, it's still a very good deal for a new top end skate (it'd work out to around $550 CDN plus tax).

What size Makos did you have and how do the Trues compare size and fit wise to the Mako?

Does the 7.5R TF9 have a 263mm or 272mm holder? I know 7.5EE Bauer's use a 272mm holder, but most other brands use 263mm for 7.5. Does anyone know if True upsizes the holder of their wide skates in half sizes like Bauer or keeps the same size for wide and regular width?

I'd try on every ice and inline skate you can until you find something comfortable. If it happens to be an ice boot then you could have them converted to inline. The new True TF7 boots might be a good candidate as it's not a fortune (around $350 CAD with the current rebate or under $300 US) and is extremely responsive to heat. It's far from the only option, but one I'd definitely consider. The only challenge with the True skates is you won't get a full idea of how they'll fit until after they're baked for your foot.

Thanks for posting this - it's helpful. I wasn't planning on new skates as I still have several pairs of Mako II's, however; the rebate deal has me tempted to try the new True retails. I don't have a True scan, but put my bare feet on/over a tailor's tape measure and my approximate measurements are: Right foot Width: 115mm Length: 269mm Left foot Width: 115mm Length: 267mm Based on your measurements and the recommendation of 7.5 W and my feet being a bit longer, it seems like an 8 wide in Trues would likely be my best bet. I'm in 8EE Makos now and my right toe brushes the cap, my left is slightly off. So an 8 wide is what I would suspect, but I know each brand is different. I'll still try to find both a 7.5W and 8W and try them on in person if I decide to grab a pair, but it's good to have a general idea of the size I'd likely need in case the store won't bake before I buy.

When Malkin, Crosby and Letang were on the long 5 on 3 PP I thought they would score for sure. As a Habs fan, I was thankful Malkin missed so many chances. He looked very dangerous his first couple shifts. I don't think he'll be held off the board much longer though. Suzuki played a great game for Montreal and obviously Price did as well. KK was solid. I would like to see Evans and Hudon in over Weise and Weal, but it's unlikely Julien will make any changes after the win.

I think the yellow grippers are around 78a; so maybe too soft for a bigger, harder skating player with Sprungs. I think a set of Labeda Asphalts that haven't been used outside may be worth a shot on wood and possibly on the polished concrete (and if they're not grippy enough on the concrete you could always try the 83a Asphalts), but the World Cups aren't a bad idea either.

Yes, decades ago I played on wood and remember using 86a single pour wheels for that and still having a lot of grip and that was in the pre-Sprung days with a flat chassis. I think your plan of using the R1 outdoors and the Sprungs indoors makes sense. The grit of outdoor surfaces can get in the part of the frame that holds the front rocker arms in Sprungs and loosen them up with friction wear. Plus, as you said, the asphalt can wear down the plastic. When you get the R1's and have a few hours of playing on them, I'd love to hear your thoughts on those vs. Sprungs. I don't know how many they have, but I know Coast to Coast inline has some original Konnix Pure's in +2 listed on their site: https://coasthockeyshop.com/collections/indoor-inline-roller-hockey-wheels/products/konixx-pure-wheel?variant=36561322769 I have never used them on anything, but Sport Court though; so don't know if they're the best option for the surfaces you play on. Most of the guys, I know that play on polished concrete with Sprungs swear by the yellow Labeda Grippers. They spend money on top end wheels when they play on Sport Court and have tried those on cement, but say for some reason the single pour wheels work better on the polished concrete. They are lighter than I am though.

I am over 200lbs, skate hard and use Sprungs and find the Konnix Pure plus 2 wheels work well on Sport Court. I actually used to use 78a Hot Shots in the first three positions and 84a World Cups in the rear spot. I had some hub separation issues with the World Cups and the Konnix Pure actually last longer for me. Before the Konnix wheels I used Revision Steel wheels and those weren't bad, but I had the odd separation in those as well. I have never had a hub separate in over two years with the Konnix and they grip better, but don't feel like I am skating in mud. I do have some cheap single pour outdoor wheels that I used to ref with on smooth cement and those do feel like skating in mud. I have some other 86a outdoor wheels that feel better. Anyway, I would give the original Konnix Pure plus 2 a try if you haven't already. They're definitely the best Sport Court wheels I have used with Sprungs and I do like a hard wheel.

I am not trying to claim that BT provides more grip as I have no experience with them. I just meant it would be easy to adjust the hollow accordingly if that were the case. You will have a much better experience with Sprungs with harder wheels. The ideal wheels will depend on your weight and the surface. As someone with bad knees, I do like the idea of taking impact away from the joints.

Sprungs do feel like skating in mud if you use them with wheels that are too soft. I have experienced this myself. The suspension provides more grip; so you have to use harder wheels than you would with a flat chassis. Also, full profile wheels rub with Sprungs; so make sure the wheels have an elliptical profile. I don't think Bladetech would add more grip, but if it did it would be easy enough to switch to a shallower hollow.

I'm a Habs fan, but realistically Pittsburgh has more game breaking players and depth. I'd love to see an upset and think they'll steal a game or two, but see the Pens taking it in 4 or 5. I hope I'm wrong.

You make a good point. At 12 and 77lbs the slightly softer boot might be better. If he was an older and heavier teen then it'd be different.

Since he plays AAA he may benefit from the extra stiffness and responsiveness of the carbon fiber in the True stock with Step steel vs. the Fiberglass in the TF7. The clarino liner on the True stock with Step steel would also likely be more durable and the steel might hold an edge longer. The advantages of the TF7 would mainly be the new holder and the bolt vs. the rivet for the tendon guard. I would probably lean toward the original for the extra potential performance.

If you fit in D width Makos comfortably then there would be no benefit in going to EE. You want your skates to be as tight as possible without pain. If you went wider you could end up with unnecessary negative space, losing energy transfer and possibly having heel lift. If the D's were painfully narrow somewhere after baking, like they were for me, then you would want to go to EE.

If you read through the whole thread you will see that some people go down a half size, some go up a half size and the majority use the same size Mako vs. Bauer or CCM. Nothing will replicate trying them on and baking them. We can only relay our personal experiences. I wear an 8EE Mako and baked an 8D to see if it would expand enough for my forefoot. The 8D was still too tight in the forefoot after baking (it was fine in the mid-foot and heel). I tried on an 8EE Supertacks (did not bake them) and they were too tight in the forefoot and my toes weren't brushing the cap like they do in Makos (the heel was locked and I measure an 8 on the CCM Brannock though. It felt like they were just a touch longer than Makos though). I demoed Supremes back in the TotalOne days and 7.5EE fit lengthwise, but I had a bit of heel lift. I haven't tried new Supremes. Based on my experiences, I think someone who takes a D width Supertacks would want a D width Mako. The only D width skate that would translate into a EE Mako would be a Nexus (which has more than enough room in the forefoot for me, but is sloppy in the heel). As for length, if your feet are right up against the cap in Supertacks, then going up a half size in Makos probably makes sense, but if you're a bit off the cap in Supertacks, stick with the same size.

I haven't seen it in person or tried anything on, but one thing I noticed was the bottom of the shin guards no longer have the free flex portion. To me that seems like a downgrade and the cynic in me thinks it was removed to shave costs. The top strap looks nice, but the lower strap looks like plain elastic. At the top price point it would be nice to have neoprene type straps all around. The elbows look to be a three piece construction, which is good, but the 2X pros are listed at $179 CDN. So over $200 after tax for elbow pads. They look like they would be mobile and the top and middle steps look comfortable, but that's steep. They moved from a three piece flex thumb to a two piece flex thumb on the 2X Pros. Without trying them on I don't know if that drastically changes the thumb mobility.

I would say the AS3 and FT490 are premium skates. They are one piece and would be responsive, but I don't think they would have as much wrap, be as moldable or have the zero negative space concept of Trues. I think of the CCM skates as more of a one piece traditional hockey boot akin to the old Easton Synergy skates, but with some moldabilty. The True skates are speed skate inspired, super moldable and more like KOR and Mako, but with more stiffness. I don't have an average foot. I would say my instep and heel is average, but my forefoot is very wide. So in a Nexus the forefoot would be good, but the heel was too wide and it was too deep. In other Bauer and CCM skates I could find skates with good heel lock and depth, but the forefoot and/or toe box would be too narrow. Makos in EE locked in my heel, but gave my forefoot enough room after baking. So for someone with my issue of a regular heel, but very wide forefoot a highly moldable stock skate may work as long as the toe box isn't too narrow. The moldabilty may hot help someone like yourself with depth issues though.

The Easton Mako M7 base was 50% Carbon Fiber and 50% Fiberglass. The Mako II base was 100% Carbon Fiber. My main inline skates are Mako M7's with Sprungs, I also have some original Makos as backups/outdoor skates and for ice I use Mako II's. The M7's are just as stiff as Mako II's and they've held up a lot better than the original Makos - they're just around 100 grams heavier. So in my experience the fiberglass isn't as light as pure carbon fiber, but performs and holds up well. Of course, the M7 is only 50% Fiberglass and not 100% fiberglass.

I tried on all of the Bauer and CCM skate lines and even demoed some at Modsquad events. None of them fit my feet as well as Makos. Makos in D were still too narrow for my forefoot even after baking, but EE's are great. I definitely hope the True retail skates fit similar to Mako. If the TF7 is as responsive to heat as Makos none of the CCM and Bauer skates can really compare for value at it's price level. The next cheapest one piece boot in stores would be the CCM FT490 and that's almost twice the price of the TF7 and I don't think those are as responsive to heat as True's or Makos (although I haven't had those baked on my feet). The TF9 is also much cheaper than the top CCM and Bauer retail skates; so the value proposition seems really good. When my Mako II stockpile gets low, I'll try on all the latest models of all brands, but the True's definitely seem the most Mako-like. Before the retail models were released I was resigned to the fact that I might have to shell out for customs, but if the retail True's work then I'll be happy to save the coin.

I have no experience with the RX3 gloves, but love the STX Surgeon 500 gloves I own (both retail and pro stock). The thumb is very flexible/mobile, it's tight in the fingers (triple split with the exception of the pinky) and backhand, but opens up nicely in the cuff. I've read, in this thread and others, that the RX3 isn't quite as tight as the Surgeon 500, but the Surgeon 500s are very snug everywhere except the backrolls. The pro stock gloves have a much cleaner look than the retail gloves as they have less branding and are all nylon/tufftek instead of a mix of materials. As for sizing, I wear a 14" Surgeon 500 and used 14" Easton HSX and Warrior Projekt gloves in the past. The Surgeon 500 have less volume, but fit similarly lengthwise. So for me, they're try to size, but have a snug fit which I prefer. If you like a snug/tapered glove, grab Surgeons, but if you want a glove with more volume then look at the Stallion HPR line.

Dek/ball hockey is way more popular around here simply due to the fact that the barrier of entry is far lower. You don't have to know how to skate or buy skates. Personally, I prefer roller hockey by a wide margin, however; as others have said, inline has been shrinking, but I think ball hockey (at least in my area) is doing quite well.