althoma1

I'm looking as well and received a random call about a customer service/sales position I had never applied for today. Apparently when I posted an updated resume on Monster I forgot to set it to limited or private and left it on as visible. I quickly made that change after that call. Getting random interview calls are a big enough pain without getting them for positions that you aren't interested in pursuing.

It's about finding the right amount of bite/grip just like roller. If in roller hockey you have wheels that are too grippy they'll also be slow and you'll expend more energy. If you use a hollow that's too deep then you'll have great grip, but you'll dig into the ice more and will have less glide - you'll have to expend more energy when skating around. You want to have less bite so that you can be more on top of the ice and get better glide, but you don't want to go so shallow that you start slipping out on turns. Just like you'd experiment with different wheel durometers in roller, you need to experiment with different hollows in ice to find out what is right for you. The great thing about FBV is that it allows you to have more glide while still having good bite compared to traditional hollows. For example, I find I have at least as much (if not more) glide with the 90/50 FBV compared to a 7/8" traditional hollow, but when it comes to sharp turns there's more bite with FBV.

Ice won't ever feel exactly the same as inline, but I find using a shallower hollow helps. Either a shallower traditional hollow or FBV. A fairly deep cut like 1/2" is the standard at a lot of places, but is likely only optimal for lighter skaters under 150lbs or those who prefer more bite. I personally prefer FBV. If you have FBV available in your area then try starting with something like a 90/75 and then if you can handle even less bite you can try a 90/50 FBV cut (that's what I use, but I'm also over 200lbs and used to use a 7/8" standard hollow before switching to FBV). If you don't have FBV available in your area then try going to 5/8" and if you can handle less bite then perhaps 3/4".

Easton is kind of a wild card when it comes to skate releases. Most other companies like CCM, Bauer ect. have 2 year cycles for skates. I believe the original Mako was only replaced after a year because of the ankle and durability issues some people had and that had it not been for those they wouldn't have been replaced with the Mako II until next year. The other factor with Easton is the ownership issue - when the hockey department is finally sold who knows if the new owners will continue on with the current lineup or not. Having said that, I think the Mako II's being cleared out in 2016 is probably the most likely scenario. There's a possibility it could be sooner though. If you know a 10EE Mako is a better fit for you, have a handle on the ankle issues, and don't mind the colour then I would grab the original Mako's in a 10EE on clearance for the prices they're going for and sell the 10.5EE's for whatever you can get (probably around $200 since people would need a significant price savings in order to consider used with no warranty vs. new at the clearance prices). Then when the Mako II's go on clearance you can grab a pair of those and keep the original Mako's as backups or convert them to roller ect.

I wouldn't count on a Mako II clearance in summer 2015. You may have to wait until the summer of 2016. Most skate lines last two years - I think the fact that the original Mako lasted only a year was an exception and Easton will wait until 2016 to launch a new model. I know Easton hasn't always stuck to the 2 year rule of thumb, but that's a good general guideline. I've been considering jumping on some original clearance Mako's myself, however; I do have a pair of Kor Shift 2's I've only used a couple times for ice, another pair that's more beat up for roller and two new in the box in the closet. I think I'll have to use one of those two pair from the closet as a roller conversion in the next year or so. The ones I'm using for ice may last longer, however; I've been on the ice a lot the past couple years refereeing so I may need Makos before 2016. I like the look of the new Mako II better, plus the fact that they addressed the ankle issues and changed material to make them more durable makes them more appealing. The $399 price (before a 20% discount code that you can apply to bring them down to $320) on Hockeysupremacy with free shipping in Canada is making me seriously consider the originals though. I'm trying to resist the temptation as I think I can get my Kor supply to last until 2016, but can't be certain. If Easton had showed up on SJ and I'd demoed the Makos and felt they were more comfortable or performed better than my KORs I may have pulled the trigger sooner...so I guess it's good in a way that they couldn't make it as it saved me some cash.

I'd be interested to know the ratings of all the current models as well as future ones. Hopefully they rate current models and not just new releases and the information is publicly available and not just advertised by manufacturers for select models that receive higher ratings. The public should be made aware of the low rated models as well and if they have an older helmet if they should consider upgrading. In the end that could benefit manufacturers as it could lead people who had no intention of changing their helmets any time soon deciding to upgrade.

I just found it strange that in past catalogues, like the 2012 and 2013 ones, Rink Rats were used in the top end skates, but on the wheels pages only the Mission produced Hi-Lo wheels were offered and not Rink Rats. I guess Mission must've made a deal with Revision to not only use their wheels for their top end skates, but allow dealers to order wheels through Mission as well.

Interesting that Mission switched from Rink Rat to Revision for their two top end skates. Even more interesting is that on page 34 of the catalogue Revision wheels are listed including those not available on the skates (like the Steel wheels). Did Bauer purchase Revision? It's also nice to see that the 37.5 technology is being used on the top end DS1 gloves - based on the feedback I've read here from those who have used it the technology works well and it will be very useful for hot, humid days in roller rinks.

The knuckles on the A7 and A8 were already sturdy - it was only the A6 that had the more severe knuckle breakage issues. The new beefed up knuckles are a big improvement from the old A6 and brings them up to par with the A7 and A8. So either the new A6 or A7 would both be good choices. With the A6 you'd have a smaller wheel base and turning radius which might be beneficial for the smaller surface you play on. You could either use all 72mm or all 76mm wheels (I use all 76mm). With the A7 chassis you could either use all 76mm or all 80mm wheels - the wheel base would be a bit longer, but you might get more speed at the cost of a bit of mobility; especially if you use the all 80mm setup. The durability should now be the same with either of those chassis.

All the chassis on the site are newer. The older model was sold out a while ago and you'll only find those on the used market. The difference between the new A6 and the old one is beefed up knuckles on the rocker arms and stronger plastic. The design of the A7 and A8 remains the same, but the strength of the plastic was also upgraded on those. I think Sprung13 was just in reference to the new "2013" models, but the naming of the actual chassis wasn't changed. Before they were released the redesigned A6 was being referred to as A6X, but it appears that naming convention didn't get implemented upon release. As for sizing, the A7 would likely be best for a size 9, however; you could fit an A6 on there as well if you want to go with a smaller wheel base. I used to have an A6 on a pair of 8.5 Missions. For durometer, keep in mind that Sprungs provide more grip than a standard chassis so you can go with a harder wheel. If you were using 80a with your old chassis you may want to go with 82a or 84a with Sprungs.

I only see gloves and bags listed as options. I hope that doesn't mean that custom sticks will no longer be offered and it's just a case of a temp page being put up while the full customizer, including sticks, is updated.

Sorry to read about your trouble. I'm surprised it's happened more than once with the axels in such a short time frame. I've only had an axel get stuck once in the 6 or so years I've used Sprungs. I did have the pivot pins get stuck a couple times and now I always make sure to dremel out grooves in the flat end to prevent this and haven't had any issues since doing this. Hopefully you can reach Keith as if all else fails a new rocker arm would make the skates useable (of course you'd also need one new wheel, two bearings and a spacer).

A lot of people in Canada Monday off because Canada Day fell on a Tuesday. Many decided to just take the whole week. Scott may either be off for the week or he was off Monday and Tuesday and came back to a pile of emails he has to dig through. Vacation season has begun.

The main difference I noticed with the RBZ shin guards vs the CLs is that they have Lycra straps instead of standard elastic straps. To me the Lycra straps felt like they allowed me to get a tighter, more secure and also more comfortable fit with the RBZ pads than I remember being able to achieve when I tried on the CLs last year. In this video the CCM Protective Line Manager mentions the changes in the RBZ shin pads starting at about 1:20. She mentions that the shell better aligns with the knee cap and that they revised the strapping system and how some of the foams fit so you get a closer fit. Based on this, the tweaks in the shell along with the strapping likely both contributed to the more secure and comfortable fit I experienced vs. the CLs.

I was impressed with the RBZ shins as well when I tried them on. I tried on the elbows and shoulders they felt the same as the CLs, but with a bit more coverage. The RBZ shins have neoprene type straps which I found much more comfortable and secure than the CL straps. The pad also felt very comfortable overall and fit my legs well. I still prefer my Projekt elbows to the RBZs (and anything else I've ever tried on) and my Farrell shoulders feel more mobile and comfortable to me than the RBZ shoulders (although the RBZs are certainly lighter and would retain less water), but the RBZ shins did feel more comfortable than my Projekt shins. It wasn't enough of a jump for me to buy them right there, but the next time I'm in the market for shins they'll certainly be on my short list.

It's great to hear feedback from someone who has used both. The Sprungs allowing for a varying number of wheels to be in contact due to the dual suspension lead me to believe they'd mimic the feel of a curved ice blade a bit better, but having never used the Marsblade chassis I wasn't completely sure. I'll definitely be curious to read your full review once you've had a chance to use the Marsblade in some games. If you still have the Sprungs and ever have back to back games it'd be great if you could use each chassis for one game...or if you had a 2 hour pickup session use each chassis for an hour. It sounds like your Sprungs may be retired though based on earlier posts.

1. Kor Shift 1 2. Kor Shift 2 3. CCM 652 Pump Tacks 4. Nike V12 Flexlite 5. Nike Ignite 1

If you're skating in a really small rink then the shorter wheel base and turning radius of the all 72mm wheels may be helpful, however; if you're skating in a full sized rink I'd go with all 76mm. You'll gain speed and won't loose much mobility at all. Since you're using either 72mm or 76mm I assume you went with the A6 chassis and that chassis has the shortest wheel base of all the Sprungs. That's the one I use and I'm happy with the all 76mm setup (I've used all 72mm with old flat chassis in the past). Going form 72mm to 76mm won't be a quantum leap in speed, but it'll help. Oh, and I'd actually use the hardest wheel in the back position - that's the wheel that will wear fastest with Sprungs (by far). Personally, I currently use 78a 76mm wheels (Rink Rat Hot Shots) in the first three spots and an 84a outdoor wheel (Rink Rat World Cup) in the back spot on Sport court.

Other than adding lifts or changing the mounting position (not really recommended as they're designed to be used mounted as instructed) there's not a lot you can do to customize the feel of the Sprungs. If you're using an A6 chassis you can use all 72mm or all 76mm wheels or if you're using the A7/A8 you can use all 76mm or all 80mm. You should not mix wheel sizes. You can of course also use different durometers, but I'd recommend erring on the side of harder wheels. The Sprungs add more grip and if you use a wheel that's too soft it can feel like you're skating in mud - they feel better with harder wheels. Cosmetically they can definitely be customized - mainly people have used plastic dye to dye them different colours as I'm sure you saw if you browsed through the Sprung thread. Some people have had trouble reaching Sprung recently, but as far as I know they received a new shipment of frames and parts in the fall and are up and running. I received my latest frames this past November.

I can't take credit for the instructions - those were originally posted by the creator of Sprungs (on his old site) and are also included in the comments of the YouTube video. That Mission boot wasn't the best fit for my foot so I only used that one for one season. I tried the Mission Boss boots as well, but again they weren't the best fit for my feet. My favourite combos have been the Sprungs with Torspo Surge 221 (same mold as KOR Shift 1's) and my main current pair is a pair of KOR Shift 2 boots with the latest model of the Sprung A6 chassis. The Torspo and KOR boots are stiff, responsive and fit me quite well after baking. The other nice thing about the Torspos and Shift 2's is they both have the carbon unibase which allows for a good solid mount (although the mounts were also solid on both Mission boots that had separate composite outsoles). I also use KOR Shift 2's to play ice hockey and Shift 1's to ref. So the fact that I have the same fit for ice and roller, in addition to the Sprungs, probably also helps me switch back and forth without issue.

No problem. If you do get the Sprungs just make sure they're mounted properly. They should be centered left to right, but 1/4" back from center front to back. Here are the mounting instructions: 1) Find something that shows up on the sole and mark the center of the toe and heel on the sole. Check the boot and sole to best find the center spots. 2) Draw a line from the toe spot to the heel spot. 3) Find the center of the line on the sole between the end edges of the sole and mark it. 4) Measure 1/4" toward the heel from the center point and mark this point with a line across the sole at 90 degrees to the center line. 5) Align the frame with the center of the toe mount and heel mount on the center line, and the horizontal cross member in the center of the frame lined up with the horizontal line on the sole (# 4). 6 Drill the holes through the frame (you can drill inward a little to avoid hitting the frame with the drill, and they will mount easier because of the slight angle). Or mark the mount holes through the frame and drill with the frame removed. 7) ENJOY Here's a good YouTube video if you want to try doing it yourself, but I just had mine done at a LHS and brought the instructions emphasizing they should be 1/4" back from centre front to back:

I'll quote myself from 2008: I remember doing several laps in both and always being faster in the Sprungs. The closest I was able to get in the Tuuk Rockers was approximately 2 seconds slower than the slowest Sprung lap and the largest gap was around 3 seconds. It wasn't entirely scientific as it was just me, a couple pairs of skates and a stop watch on an outdoor rink - the bearings and wheels were the same type (crappy outdoor wheels and bearings), but the boots were different (New Mission L7 boots with the Sprungs vs. used Nike V12 Flexlite boots with the Tuuk rocker) so perhaps the stiffer L7 boots also helped improve the times. The Sprungs should be faster though since you'd have more wheels in contact with the surface when pushing off and turning. It's been 6 years since I started using Sprungs and stopped using the Tuuk Rocker, but I still feel that the Sprungs are a significant upgrade. You can get better starts, turn faster and the skating feels smoother and the stride is closer to that of an ice stride. After using the Sprungs for a couple games there was no way I was ever going back to the Tuuk Rocker. The Tuuk Rocker is more durable and requires less maintenance so that may be better for outdoor use, but for competitive indoor roller hockey the Sprungs are the far better choice. The durability has been improved with the higher quality plastic and thicker rocker knuckles on the new A6 chassis, but you still have to clean and hydrate them (conditions the plastic - if you let the plastic dry out it can be more susceptible to breaking) about once a month if you want them to last as long as possible.

There are already a couple topics that compare the Tuuk Rocker to the Sprungs: http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index.php/topic/28133-is-the-tuuk-rocker-chassis-similar-to-the-sprung/ http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index.php/topic/37963-tuuk-rocker-vs-sprung-a6/ I believe this post by MDE3 does the best job at providing more details comparing the two chassis and how they work:

Yes, that sounds like Sport Court. I'd stick with hard indoor wheels like the 78a you've been using. If you want to use one harder wheel I'd put it at the back as that wheel always seems to wear fastest with Sprungs. I have used a rocker setup in the past and compared to Sprungs it was slower and more awkward. The Sprungs allow you to turn just as fast, but are smoother faster and more stable than a rockered setup.

What surface are you skating on? For Sport Court a 78a indoor wheel is certainly hard enough. I meant the hardest high end indoor wheel that I can find and not necessarily the hardest wheel period. That's what I use for the first 3 wheels. I use 78a Rink Rat Hot shots and then an 84a World Cup wheel in the back (which are meant for outdoors, but are dual pour wheels that I find work for me on the back). Before that I was using the Revision Steel wheels which I believe are also 78a. If you're on Sport Court I'd stick with 78a for sure if you aren't slipping out. That's about the hardest Sport Court wheel most companies make anyway (especially in the higher in dual pour wheels). If you're on smooth concrete you may want to move to a harder single pour wheel as for some reason those seem to work better for concrete. If you're outdoors then you'll definitely want an outdoor wheel. If you're lighter you could probably also get away with 76a wheels for Sport Court (before the Revision Steels were available I used Revision Bronze and they're 76a), but I definitely wouldn't go lower than that with Sprungs. Definitely don't rocker the Sprung chassis - use all 76mm or all 72mm wheels if you get the A6 chassis. I use all 76mm, but all 72mm would work if you really want to be as close to the ground as possible. Just don't mix the sizes. You'll loose a bit of speed if you go with all 72mm. If you get an A7 or A8 you can either use all 76mm or all 80mm, but don't mix the two. The Sprungs only work properly if you use wheels that are all the same size and you'll void the 1 year warranty and add undue stress on the parts if you mix sizes.