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althoma1

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Everything posted by althoma1

  1. It's not surprising that you have more room in a Bauer Vapor Fit 2 than a CCM Jetspeed 7.5D. Bauer's Fit 2 is more like an old Supreme D or Vapor EE. You'd also have more room if you were in a CCM Jetspeed EE or a Regular in the new fit system. Both D Jetspeeds and D Vapors are narrow skates, the Fit 2 in Bauer and Regular in CCM is more of an average fit. If you're going to a store to get the Vapors baked anyways, see if they have a 7.5EE or 7.5 Regular Jetspeed for you to try on while you're there - that's a more appropriate sizing comparison vs. Bauer Fit 2. Trying on a 7R (they generally fit at least a half size longer than Bauer/CCM after baking) True TF7 and/or TF9 may be a good idea as well (especially if they'll heat them up for you) - True also recently extended their 30 day satisfaction guarantee that was supposed to end Dec 31...so you could always bake, sharpen and test one of the True models at no risk for 30 days. While it's good that you don't feel any pain the the Vapors, they'll be wider everywhere than a D Jetspeed. Just make sure that there's not a lot of extra negative space and you still have good heel lock. I'd try to figure that out before you bake them as they may not let you return the Vapors after they're baked.
  2. You may be waiting a while if you wait for the new Bauer skates to drop. Last year the Hyperlite skates weren't released until June 25th. I know in the past skates used to launch around late April, but the last several years that's been pushed back to June or even July.
  3. I don't think Keith, the inventor of Sprungs, is making any more product. He was working on designs for an alloy version called Fizix, but I don't think he's secured the funding to get that produced and the Facebook page for the product hasn't been updated in over a year. https://www.facebook.com/FizixFrames The Sideline lead @Westside gave you is your best bet. I think he bought up the remaining stock. I believe the same seller also has an account on eBay under the name stickfixtexassouth: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/164181065317?var=463812336559 If he doesn't have any A7s left, you can either go with an A6 or consider trying the Marsblade R1. As someone who has used the Sprung for over a decade and used the R1 for several months in 2021, I still prefer a new set of Sprungs, but the R1 is a very close second. I think the Sprungs are a bit lighter and slightly more mobile, but, like Sprungs, the R1 also allows for full stride extension and tighter turns and stops than a traditional flat or HI-LO chassis. I suspect the R1 will also be more durable in the long run. While the Sprungs are great when new, they do get friction wear and eventually the rocker arms get very loose and that hurts the responsiveness and stability.
  4. Pure Hockey has a fit conversion chart: https://www.purehockey.com/support/hockey-skate-sizing-guide/pg_id/20235 Bauer Fit 3 translates to CCM Wide, which is currently available in the Jetspeed and Ribcor lines. The length should be the same; so, you'd be looking for 9 Wide CCM skates. You could also try an 8.5W in a True TF9 or TF7. The True retail skates in wide are probably the widest skates in the forefoot since the Nexus line has been discontinued. The right size will feel too small before baking and they open up with a proper bake. They fit at least a half size longer than Bauer or CCM in the same size after baking. That's why I'd start with an 8.5W.
  5. For boot stiffness, there are two things that come into play - skating ability and size/weight. A lightweight player that's not an advanced skater would want a softer boot, but something where you can replace the steel is always ideal. An advanced skater usually likes a stiffer boot regardless of the weight. Heavier, 200lb plus players need a stiff skate for support even if they're not amazing skaters and would break down low end, soft skates in short order. They don't have to be top of the line skates, but you'll want to look at skates that are at least mid-range and stay away from low end skates. For length, the ideal fit is for the skate to hug your foot snugly without any serious pressure points and for your toes just brush the cap when the skates are laced up and your heel is locked in place. The toes can just come off when you're knees are bent in an athletic skating position. Now, some people prefer an even tighter fit where the toes always touch - they more than feather when just standing and just feather when in an athletic stance. Others prefer that the toes don't touch the cap, I'm not one of those people. That can work, but you have to ensure you still have good heel lock (your heel doesn't move up and down) and your foot isn't sliding forward in the boot. If you have too much movement in the boot while you skate this can cause blisters and bone spurs. You definitely don't want the skates to fit like running shoes with a lot of room in the front. You'll also gain a few mm after baking and break in (the padding compresses); so, if you start with something that's already too long, the problem will only get worse over time. If the skates are slightly small before baking and break in, they may be perfect with time. You can also have skates punched or stretched if they're a bit small after break in, but you can never make a skate that's too big smaller. That's why I generally prefer to go with the smallest size that doesn't cause pain.
  6. Never go longer to try to deal with a depth or width issue. Also, you can't judge True skates without having the right size properly baked. So, I wouldn't rule the skates out based on trying on the wrong width unbaked. Since CCM has the 90 day guarantee and you already have the skates, I'd bake them, sharpen them and give them a try. I definitely wouldn't swap them out for a 10.5 in any brand if you know that 10 is the correct length.
  7. You would return the skates to the dealer (IW) if they don't work out. That's the case with both CCM and True. I don't think baking will really change the depth, but if you only fail by a tiny bit they may be OK. Since they're CCM skate you can bake them and use them as much as possible - if they're comfortable and performing well then keep them. If you end up getting soreness/lacebite near that 4th eyelet then return them to IW before the 90 days is up. IW offers free return shipping and CCM has the 90 day satisfaction guarantee; so, baking, sharpening and trying them is very low risk.
  8. You won't be the same skate size in all brands. As mentioned by @puckpilot, don't use shoe size to figure out your skate size. The Bauer scan and a skate specific brannock will give you a better starting point. That and skate that you already have. Most people need to drop a half size from Graf to Bauer or CCM. So, if you're 10.5 Grafs fit well then scanning at 10 in Bauer makes complete sense. A Bauer Fit 3 is comparable to a deeper Supreme EE or an old Nexus D. Here's what I'd recommend trying on, at least to start: Bauer Vapor and Sumpreme in a 10 Fit 3. CCM Ribcor in 10 EE (if it's old stock) or 10 in their new wide fit. CCM Tacks in 10 EE or 10 in their new wide fit. True TF9 and/or TF7 in 9.5W. The True retail skates fit at least a half size longer than Bauer or CCM in the same size and really open up after baking. They won't feel great before baking and the right size will feel way too small before baking. You have to completely undo the top two eyelets and twist your foot to even get it in. Then to do up the top two eyelets you need to thread them behind the tongue and then pull the lace over. Before baking your toes should be firm on the cap without being bent (more than feathering) - after baking and break in, this should be the right length. If you're toes aren't firm against the cap before baking, try a smaller size. With any of the brands and models, I'd keep trying on smaller sizes until you're sure it's too small (toes are bent to fit in the skate) and then go up half a size. Once you have the right length, you need to ensure that the depth and heel lock are good. You can use the pencil test for depth. For heel lock, you can walk around in the skates and also try some lunges. You can't really judge the Trues without baking them, but if you buy those before Dec 31 at participating retailers, they have a 30 day satisfaction guarantee. CCM has a 90 day satisfaction guarantee. So, with either CCM or True you can bake, sharpen and use the skates and return them if they don't work well for you (within 30 days for True and 90 for CCM). Bauer doesn't have a guarantee like that. I think the True skates in W have the widest toe box, but still provide good heel lock and are average depth. The Bauer Fit 3 skates will be wider at the heel and deeper. I have no experience with the new CCM wide fit skates, but I know people who used to use Nexus skates have had success with CCM Ribcor skates in EE in the past. So True in 9.5W or a Ribcor in EE/W after baking would be my best guess for skates that would fit based on what you've said, but try on everything you can in various sizes.
  9. I am a full size down from my Easton Makos and what I measure on a Brannock, but a half size from my Bauer 3D scan. I wear 8EE Makos, measure 8 on a Brannock, scan as a 7.5 Fit 3 Bauer and have 7W True TF9s converted for inline. Before baking an 8W TF9 was obviously too long, a 7.5W felt perfect and a 7W felt small with my toes hard against the cap. Even after a bake the 7W felt a little tight, but after a second bake and about 10 hours of skating they felt like the right length. If I hadn't watched @Hills video and read sizing comments here before hand, I would have likely went with the 7.5W. I would say that you want your toes hard against the cap before baking as long as they're flat and not bent. If you can't feel the front now, I would go down a half size, especially if you are within the 30 day window.
  10. Pro Hockey Life and Hockey Supremacy have them for that price, but I don't think either of them ship to the US. https://hockeysupremacy.com/products/true-junior-hockey-skates-made-in-canada https://www.prohockeylife.com/products/true-jr-hockey-skates?custom=algolia&term=true-jr-hockey-skates&variant=28497445355597 I also came across an ad on Kijiji from a seller in London, ON that is clearing out TF7 and TF9 skates in select sizes: https://www.kijiji.ca/v-hockey/london/true-tf9-and-tf7-skates/1597362789 Here are the prices they list (all CAD $): TF9 Senior $400 (reg $699) Junior $300 (reg $399) TF7 Senior $300 (reg $399) Junior $200 (reg $299)
  11. The TF7 and TF9 skates don't have the insert, but the 2019 junior model skates do. The description on the Just Hockey page details the inserts: True Jr Stock skates have arrived in a limited run, for sizing they are a split size as they have a foam insert in the toe region that can be removed. To give an example on a pair of 4/4.5 they will fit to a size 4 with the foam insert in the toes but with that insert removed they will fit to a size 4.5 https://www.justhockeytoronto.com/products/19214132?variant=31121419141223 The Hockey Supremacy specs also mention the inserts with the 2019 Junior stock skates: If you want a bit more room at the toes, you can take out the cushioning inside the toe cap. This will make the skates longer. Just Hockey has them listed at 3.5/4, 4/4.5, 4.5/5, 5/5.5 and 5.5/6. Other sites, like Hockey Supremacy and Pro Hockey Life, have them listed from size 4 to 6, including half sizes. I think on a site like Just Hockey you'd need a 4/4.5, but on the other sites that have them listed from size 4 through 6, you may need a 4.5. Trying them on is ideal, but I do understand the 2019 junior skates can be hard to find in all areas and that may not be possible. It'd be a gamble if you bought from a place that didn't allow returns. Other differences to note between the stock 2019 junior skates and the 2020 TF7/TF9 skates are: The 2019 skates use a different holder and steel. The production of that holder and steel was limited, so it may be harder to find a replacement holder or steel if something happens down the line. I imagine the quality of the steel would be good though since it was made by Step. The 2019 skates use a rivet to hold in the tendon guard instead of a nut and bolt. For parents of youth players who are likely to outgrow the boots in a season or two tops, I think the clearance 2019 stock skates would be a great choice. For an adult player that may have the boots for several years and will eventually want to replace the steel, it may be better to grab the TF7 or TF9 on sale with the newer Shift holders and steel so that you don't have to pay to install all new holders and steel when a holder or steel breaks or when the steel wears down. That's of course a moot point if you were already planning to swap the holders for something else. The other advantage of the TF7 or TF9 is of course the 30 day satisfaction guarantee at participating stores if you buy before the end of the month. If you buy, sharpen, bake and try the 2019 versions then you'd have to try to resell them to recoup as much money as possible if they don't work for you.
  12. You always want the oven preheated.
  13. True skates can handle multiple bakes better than most skates. I don't know why Pure is telling you not to bake them a second time. I would just bake them and make sure to use the wrap like Scott Van Horne demonstrates in the video.
  14. Besides kicking my heel back hard and using the luggage wrap method, I didn't do anything special with the Trues. With my Makos, I did use a big plastic clamp for the heel just below the ankle bones. I would try rebaking, make sure you really kick your heel back and use more luggage wrap. If you still don't have good heel lock, you could try carefully spot heating with a heat gun just the heel and using a clamp.
  15. It's like a saran wrap, but stronger. I found something like this for $4 at a local dollar store:https://www.amazon.com/Stretch-Plastic-Luggage-Banding-Packing/dp/B07RBZ74G3/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=Luggage+Plastic+Wrap&qid=1637726326&sr=8-14
  16. It sounds like 4 would be the right length after baking with the luggage wrap and break in. With the TF9s, I find I have excellent heel lock, but really kicked my heel back and then used the luggage wrap after taking them out of the oven. The only issue I had was some tightness at the widest part of my forefoot, but a second bake and break in helped with that.
  17. Yes, for most people the retail Trues require them to go down a half size from Bauer/CCM and people would go up a half size in Graf vs. Bauer/CCM. Most of the experiences here were with senior sizes though; so, that may or may not translate to the junior sizes. Plus, each foot is different, so you really need to try them on and have them baked to get the right size and determine if they'll work for your feet. The last and fit of the TF7 boots are the same, it's the thickness of the tongues that make them feel different (the TF7 tongue is much thicker), but as you mentioned, the tongues can be swapped and the thicker tongues should compress a bit over time. I think your best bet is to get to a store that has them in stock and try on at least a 4 and 4.5 (you could try them with and without the tongues since those just Velcro in and out). Before baking, your toes firm against the front, but not bent or crushed would be a good sign that you have the right length. If your toes barely touch, they'll likely end up too long after baking and break in. If your toes are crushed and won't sit flat and you have to bend them to get your foot in the boots, then you likely won't gain enough room after baking and break in. It'd be great if the store was also participating in the 30 day satisfaction guarantee. That way you can bake, sharpen and use the size you choose and return them after trying them for a few weeks if the fit isn't great.
  18. For those in Canada, Sport Chek has both the TF7 and TF9s for 20% off right now. The discounted price is showing online right now even before you add them to the cart.
  19. If your toes were curled unlaced in the 6.5R, it's probably better you went up to the 7R. For my feet with the 7W, my toes were pressed very hard against the cap before baking, but were flat and did not curl at all. If your toes are hard against the cap in the 7R, that sounds like it's the right size for your feet. After baking and break in you'll gain some room. My toes are also slightly over the 7W insole. I find the True retail insoles are on the short side vs. any other skate I've worn in the past.
  20. In my experience, after baking the TF9s are about three quarters of a size larger than Makos in the same size. So, a 7 TF9 will be a quarter size larger than a 7.5 Mako after baking and a 6.5 will be approximately a quarter size smaller. After about 20 hours of break in, my 7W TF9s feel very close to the same length as my 8EE Mako II's. Externally the 7W and 8EE Makos appear to be the same length. I know the 8W TF9 felt too big before baking, the 7.5W felt like the right size and 7W felt too small. After baking and break in, I'm happy with the 7W and think the 7.5W would've been a bit long by now if I'd went with that size.
  21. P88 is a fairly mild mid-curve. It's a toss up between the P88 and P92 on which is milder - neither is a big hook. If a big curve is what you're after then you want a W71 Warrior, P77 Sherwood (Coffee), a P28 or a Pro Stock Kovalchuk (similar to a P28, but an even bigger hook). As stick9 said, the P90TM has more "hook" than a P92, but less than the P28. I think it's also a bit deeper than a P92, but haven't used the P90TM myself (I've only seen pictures and video).
  22. I don't bother with shot blockers as most of the time I manage to get out of the way of shots, but if I were to try some, I'd try the Ultrastop product because it's worked for NHL players and is very low profile: https://www.japersrink.com/2018/8/13/17579526/matt-niskanen-gives-technology-a-shot https://www.binnieshockey.com/shop-hockey-accessories/custom-ultra-shot-blockers Not that you can't buy some TF9s, but you may want to try the Ultrastops for your Mako II's.
  23. Yes, I think the toe cap is likely the difference you're feeling. The Mako toe cap has the lined felt type material, it's lower profile and asymmetrical. I also suspect that if you can fit into 7 TF9s, you could likely fit into an 8 Mako and the 9 Makos you thought were a half size big, were really a full size off. That doesn't matter anymore since you're retiring your 9 Makos, but if you ever come across a pair of new old stock or very good condition Mako II's, M8's or M7s in an 8, you might want to give them a try if you miss the Mako feel. I think the fact that the Makos wrap so well and have the low profile toe cap probably allowed you to get away with skates that were too long, but still allowed for good heel lock and kept your foot from sliding around.
  24. I have Mako II's for ice and a converted pair of TF9s for inline. So, I can't give you an on ice comparison, but can give you some general feedback on the boot differences and sizing: I have 8EE Mako II's and 7W TF9 boots. My toes just feather the cap in the Mako II's. I tried on 8W TF9s and they were way too long even before baking. The 7.5W felt like the right size before baking, but I read the feedback from other owners that mentioned they really opened up after baking and break in and decided to go down to 7W. Before baking the 7W felt too small - it was very hard to get my foot in and my toes were very hard against the cap. After baking, I still had to undo the top two laces and twist my foot to get it in, but now my toes were a little less firm against the cap. After about 10-15 hours of use, my left foot now just brushes the cap and my right, longer foot, is against the cap, but not uncomfortable. So, in my opinion, most people will want to go down a full size in the TF9 vs a Mako II. When I hold the boots side by side, the length of the 7W TF9 and 8EE Makos seem the same. When I wear them, the TF9 feels about a 1/4 size shorter; so, maybe the length difference is 3/4 size, but I'd rather have a skate that's a touch small than one that's too big (especially one based on a zero negative skate speed skate concept). The boot height and depth is very similar as well (the only difference there is that the Mako has one side lower than the other at the ankle, but the TF9 is the same on both sides). So, to get the right size, you'll either have to drop a holder size or pay to swap to the holder size you're used to on the Mako. The TF9s are a bit stiffer, have less flexible tendon guards and the toe box is taller and not asymmetrical like the Makos. In use, I don't notice the tendon guard difference, but I do notice the toe box. The Mako toe box is more comfortable for my feet. As for the stiffness - I don't mind the extra stiffness. The weight difference is noticeable for me, but I also have a heavy inline chassis on the TF9 (Marsblade R1) vs. a lighter one on another Mako conversion (Sprung A6). I'm not sure I'd notice the weight difference on the ice. None of the shots I've taken off the TF9 boots have hurt, but I've only had inline pucks hit them and not ice pucks. I do think they'd offer a bit more protection that the Makos, but agree with what @krisdrum said. If your Mako II's are in good shape otherwise, you're better off paying to have some ultrastop shot blocker sheets installed (https://www.binnieshockey.com/shop-hockey-accessories/custom-ultra-shot-blockers) or buying another type of shot blocker than buying new skates. Here's an article about the use of the ultrastop blockers in the NHL: https://www.japersrink.com/2018/8/13/17579526/matt-niskanen-gives-technology-a-shot Overall, I have a bit less negative space in the TF9s, get even better heel lock (the Mako heel lock is already very good) and like the extra stiffness. I do prefer the lower profile and comfort of the Mako toe box though. I can't give you any on ice opinions as I've never used the TF9s on ice, but the boot itself is the most similar you'll find to the Mako. Oh, one other note. In the right size in the TF9, you'll need to undo the top two eyelets completely to get them on and off. This is similar to the Mako, but I find it easier to get the laces back in with the Mako. With the TF9, it's really hard to do up the top two laces unless you put the lace behind the tongue first and then pull them over after you thread the lace.
  25. The TF9 Clarino type liner should theoretically hold up better long term than the TF7's microfiber type liner I don't think the Fiberglass vs. Carbon Fiber is a huge difference. The Carbon Fiber is a touch lighter and a little stiffer, but the difference isn't huge. The exposed Carbon Fiber definitely looks nicer than the painted Fiberglass. The holders are the same and I don't think the coated steel on the TF9 is drastically different. I prefer the thinner tongue on the TF9 to the thicker felt tongue on the TF7. I had volume issues with the TF7s when I tried them on, but that wasn't the case with the TF9. It's easy to change tongues on the True skates since they're just held in with Velcro. With that said, I don't know what replacement tongues cost or how easy it is to source the True tongues (most retailers don't seem to carry them in stores - you may have to contact True directly). The suggested bake times for the TF9s are longer than the bake times for the TF7 - that suggests that the TF9s may be a little more thermoformable. I haven't had the TF7s baked, only the TF9s; so, I can't be sure that's the case.
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