althoma1

I wear 8EE Mako II's with my toes just brushing. For a roller conversion I went with 7W TF9 boots. The 8W were clearly too big before baking, the 7.5W felt perfect before baking and the 7W had my toes HARD on the cap before baking and felt too small overall. I still went with the 7W based on the sizing video @Hills put on his hockeyreviews.ca YouTube channel and the sizing comments on threads here. The 7W still felt a bit too tight after baking, but about 10 hours of use compressed the padding enough to make them fit perfectly with my toes just brushing. For my feet, I think the 7.5W would've ended up being a little too big after break in. With that said, every foot is different - I know 8.5D Makos would be too long and narrow for my feet. I tried baking 8D M8 Makos and they ended up being too narrow. I didn't tried 8.5D Makos, but the 8EE Makos have me just barely brushing and I wouldn't want any more length. When I first baked the 7W TF9s and wanted to test the fit the next morning, I tried slipping them on barefoot and did scrape the top of my right foot on the eyelets using the twisting method. Once I put my usual thin skate socks on, I no longer scraped the top of my feet. Using them with thin socks will definitely save the top of your feet from pain. If the TF9s feel too stiff for you, perhaps you should try the new Catalyst CAT9 skates when you can find them in your area. The official launch date is July 15th, but they're starting to pop up in some stores already. They have a more streamlined toe box that looks somewhat similar to the Mako, have a more flexible tendon guard and are designed with a more flexible quarter package. This document that @PBH posted in the Catalyst thread has more details: https://acrobat.adobe.com/link/track?uri=urn:aaid:scds:US:85882b7e-1b8b-3288-a9dd-53243a6c6bf2 I don't know if the sizing on the Catalyst line will be the same as the TF line, someone on another forum said they tried on the CAT7 and the TF7 and felt that before baking, the CAT7 was about a half size shorter than the TF7. That's just one person's feeling though - ideally you'd want to get to a shop and get them on your feet (baked would obviously give you an even better idea).

Yes, they have chrome and yellow. See this post from October for pictures:

I've never used one, but from what I've read and the YouTube video's I've watched, the 9K Pro Girdles are the most protective wrap style girdle available. They'll be heavier than retail girdles, but will be very protective. The original 9K pro girdles were Reebok branded, but there are some CCM 9K Pro girdles out there as well; so, search for both. Here's a good video @Hills made comparing the Jetspeed girdle to a 9K girdle: The Hockey Shop in British Columbia, Canada had some of the CCM 9K Pro girdles in stock a while back, but they don't have any in right now. Here's what they look like though: https://www.thehockeyshop.com/products/ccm-9k-pro-senior-hockey-girdle There are a few Reebok 9K Pros on Sidelineswap right now: https://sidelineswap.com/en-CA/shop/hockey/pants-girdles-shells/girdles/reebok/model-9k-24/l11842

For the top two eyelets, thread the laces through the eyelets behind the tongue and then pull the laces over. It's much easier that way. Trying to thread the laces through the eyelets with the lace in front of the tongue is really tough. As for the feel issue, I only have TF9s converted to roller, so I don't know how they feel on ice, but I know most people that go from another brand to True ice skates end up having to go with a shallower hollow; so, that's definitely a good starting point. If the boots felt comfortable, I personally wouldn't change the footbed. I'd start with the hollow and if that didn't fix it, I'd consider getting them profiled.

I'm 100% sure. I've been using Sprungs for about 15 years now and the mounting instructions that the inventor provided were: 1) Find something that shows up on the sole and mark the center of the toe and heel on the sole. Check the boot and sole to best find the center spots. 2) Draw a line from the toe spot to the heel spot. 3) Find the center of the line on the sole between the end edges of the sole and mark it. 4) Measure 1/4" toward the heel from the center point and mark this point with a line across the sole at 90 degrees to the center line. 5) Align the frame with the center of the toe mount and heel mount on the center line, and the horizontal cross member in the center of the frame lined up with the horizontal line on the sole (# 4). 6 Drill the holes through the frame (you can drill inward a little to avoid hitting the frame with the drill, and they will mount easier because of the slight angle). Or mark the mount holes through the frame and drill with the frame removed. 7) ENJOY I always printed out these instructions and gave them to the shop. One shop didn't follow them early on and I definitely felt the difference. If they're centered then you engage the suspension by just standing on them. If they're mounted 1/4" toward the rear then you only engage the front suspension when you stride. If they're mounted more toward the front that'd definitely explain the stability issues...that's the opposite of what you want and is even worse than a mount that is centered front to back. They'll definitely feel way better if you get them remounted toward the rear. After the one incorrect mounting, I not only print out the instructions, but insist they read and use them (some workers believe they've done enough inline conversions that they don't need instructions, but they're used to a flat chassis like a HI-Lo where you do want to center them. You have to emphasize that they need to be mounted 1/4" toward the rear). Actually, the last couple times I actually brought boots with a good mount in as an example and just said, mount them exactly the same. I had 8EE OG Makos with a good mount as an example and was getting a new chassis mounted on 8EE Mako M7 boots - so the boot size and shape was exactly the same. I left one of the OG Makos with Sprungs in the shop for them to reference. With that size of skate and a Sprung A6 there's only about 5mm (less than a 1/4") of space at the rear after mounting and 10mm (a little under 1/2") at the front; so, a 1/4" more toward the rear just like the inventor intended. Here's a video of someone doing the install on their own. If you look at his edited comments in the video, he later realizes that using a center punch to punch out most of the rivets is way easier than prying them out or using a chisel. A shop of course has a rivet machine with a punch. I have removed a chassis on my own in the past and just used a rubber mallet and a robertston screw driver to punch out most of the rivets...a shop can do this more efficiently though:

I scan as a 7.5 Fit 3 Bauer and wear 8EE Makos. When I tried TF9 skates, 8W was clearly too big, 7.5W felt like the right size before baking and 7W was really hard to get my foot in and my toes were hard against the cap. I still went with the 7W, after baking they still felt a bit short, but after about 10 hours of skating, I was glad I went with the 7W vs. 7.5W. So, I would try them on, but keep in mind that the right size should feel too small before baking. If they feel like the right size before baking, they'll likely be too large after baking and break in. A half size down from Bauer is a good starting point, but every foot is different.

What size Sprung (A6, A7 or A8)? What size and type of wheels were you using and on what surface? They may not be for you, but there's also a chance they may feel better to you with different wheels. I know one of the first times I used them on sealed concrete, I used wheels that were too soft and it felt like I was skating in mud. After I changed to different wheels they felt way better. Besides wheels, the other key things with Sprungs is that you want to make sure the chassis is mounted a 1/4" more toward the rear than the front. You don't want the mount centered from front to back like you do with some other chassis. If you determine it's not a mounting or wheel issue then reselling them makes sense.

I agree that the R1's are more durable than the Sprungs, but I wouldn't say that Sprungs offer no advantage. Personally, I find stopping way easier in the Sprungs and they're also a bit lighter. I do feel that the R1's are faster and you get full stride extension and can use a toe flick with both chassis (unlike a flat/Hi-Lo where you have to use a choppier, shorter stride).

Yes, use the convection setting. The skate ovens at the store are smaller convection ovens. Preheat to 200 Fahrenheit and bake the skates one at a time for 10 minutes. You can put a damp tea towel on a pizza tray and then put the skates on that. Flip them at the 5 minute mark to ensure they're evenly heated. 6 minutes at 180 isn't long enough or hot enough. Obviously having access to a shop with a proper oven is ideal, but I have baked Kor, Mako and True skates at home with the convection setting successfully. I have also had Kors and Makos baked at a shop and the results felt the same to my feet.

I went from the Projekt to the True XC9 girdle. The XC9 is more protective around the waist area and lower back than the Projekt. The Covert girdle looks very similar to the XC9 and us the other option I was considering, but I came across a great deal on the XC9.

I have never used the O1, but from what I've read and seen, I'd say the O1 would likely feel the most like ice and would also provide the most challenge for off ice training. I think the Sprungs would be more stable and make playing inline easier - that's just a guess though.

While I can get full stride extension with the R1 and make tighter turns than with a standard chassis, I can hardly feel the movement with the stock setup. It feels very stable to me - the O1 is the chassis that's designed to be less stable in order to challenge your muscles for ice off training (I haven't used that one). In comparison to the R1, I can definitely feel the movement of the Sprung chassis I've used for years - the movement in much more noticeable to me, with Sprungs. So, personally, I wouldn't worry about stability with the R1. As for the inserts, I haven't used them, but some are designed for more heel movement and some are designed for more toe. I just kept the stock insert. Scroll down on this page until you get to the insert setting graphic with the blue background: https://www.marsblade.com/roller-hockey You can click through those and it'll tell you the percentage of toe vs heel movement.

Having the top Vapor option only available in Fit 2 also takes away the shallow/narrow option. Fit 2 Vapors won't offer a fit that's significantly different than a D width Mission. So, Bauer will have two similar fits, plus E and EE Mission. Ok for the average to slightly wide foot, but nothing for the narrow/low volume or high volume/very wide. For my foot type, narrow/average heel, average depth and very wide forefoot, True in W fits best out of the current models. Those and my old EE Mako M7 fit well. I hope the True W fit stays around for a while as I don't think options from other brands would work as well for my feet.

Concrete provides more friction than ice, so I would go with the slightly stiffer 85 flex shaft.

Some people put stock in that and others just want to buy what fits, feels and looks best for them. I've never tried the Super Tacks X, but I've definitely heard from others that it's very comfortable and well ventilated. It looks like it'd also pass the mirror test for most people. You're right that the segment of the market that puts stock in the VT tests will likely avoid it, but there's a large segment of the market that doesn't use the VT results to help them select their helmet. So the VT results may deter some and the price may deter others, but some people won't care about either factor.

Agreed. It's great for companies and for consumers who are willing to pay whatever is necessary to get what they want. Most consumers love clearance and overstock deals on high end equipment, but that's obviously not ideal for the manufacturers.

There's obviously a segment of the market that will pay whatever it takes to get their kids (or themselves) what they perceive as the best equipment. Companies wouldn't be able to have high priced special edition ADV sticks or custom skates that sell for over a grand if no one bought them. If people are willing to drop over $300 on a stick, then what's $500 or $600 on a helmet? Those with the means will buy whatever product they think is best regardless of the price. People with more modest means will get by on lower level, clearance or used gear.

I think the actual custom Super Tacks X helmet option is one thing that will definitely be quite high. The price of the stock Super Tacks X is already quite high. The custom head scan and liner printing is appealing, but I'm sure the price won't be for the weak of heart.

Yes, you can run all 76mm on the A7. Most people use all 80mm with the A7 for a bit more speed, but all 76mm will work and will give you a smaller wheel base for even more mobility.

Sprungs are meant to be used with all the same size wheels. If you have the A6, use all 76mm. The won't function the way they were designed to if you use different sized wheels. You should also take them apart and clean them regularly to avoid friction wear (especially if you use them outside). As for the R1, for some reason they felt heavier and slower for me outside than they do inside. Perhaps it's just a difference in wheels. I do prefer the Sprungs when new to the R1, but would still rather use the R1 than a traditional flat chassis as they allow for full stride extension and provide better grip. I'd also prefer the R1 to a really worn in pair of Sprungs (one where the front rocker arms move freely). An alloy version of Sprungs would be my dream chassis.

There have been photos of pros wearing a new True Catalyst skate. I have no idea how they will fit, but there's a chance the depth will be different in those and it's likely we'll see retail catalyst skates toward the middle of this year. If you can wait, you could see if they added any depth in that area. Another option with your current skates would be to switch to a thinner tongue if you haven't already. The TF7 felt tongue is much thicker than the TF9 tongue. These pro tongues also look thinner: https://www.hockeyvancouver.ca/products/true-tf-pro-replacement-tongues

You'll gain a few mm after baking and break in with the 7 Fit 2 Supremes, but if you need more than a few mm then I understand not going that route. It sounds like the 7 wide were too roomy, but that also suggests they're the right length, but too wide. So, it kind of confirms that 7 is the right length for CCM and Bauer. The True skates open up quite a bit after baking and several hours of skating. For me, 7.5W felt perfect before baking (and I scan as a 7.5 Fit 3 for Bauer and also use 8EE Easton Makos) with my toes just brushing. The 7W felt way too tight with my toes very hard against the cap, but not bent. After baking they were still a bit tight, but after about 10 hours of use my toes just lightly brush. If you go through the TF7/TF9 thread, you'll see others had similar experiences with the True retail skates. The hockeyreviews.ca YouTube video on the TF9 sizing by our own @Hills is also very helpful. With the True retail models, if you go with the size that feels perfect pre-bake they'll likely end up being too big after baking and breaking them in. Most people end up going down a half size in True retails from Bauer or CCM and some even had to go down a full size. I know you aren't a fan of their appearance anyway, so they'd probably be your last choice if the other options don't work out. If the X2.9s don't work out, trying 7D SuperTacks seems reasonable due to the 90 day guarantee.

From the information you've provided in various posts, I think the Vapor X2.9 in a 7 Fit 2 may work well for you. You said your current 7EE Vapors fit well, but are a little shallow near the 4th and 5th eyelet. Well, Fit 2 is supposed to be a similar width to a Vapor EE or Supreme D, with a depth more like the Supreme D (which is a bit deeper than a Vapor EE). So, on paper a 7 Fit 2 would be better for you. The CCM skates sizing was realigned around 2017 to fit the same as Bauer lengthwise. If you're a 7 Bauer, then you're more than likely a 7 in a CCM made after 2017. In the D/EE CCM sizing, the Jetspeed was a narrow skate and would be closer to a D Vapor than a EE. So, a 7.5D Jetspeed FT485 would be a width too narrow and a half size too long if your EE Vapors fit well besides the depth. They may not feel like they're too long because a skate that's too narrow will compress and elongate your foot. So, if you wanted to try the Jetspeed FT485, you'd likely be better off with a 7EE in that skate and not a 7.5EE. It's true that the scanner is just a starting point, but the fact that you were 7 Fit 1 and then 6.5 Fit 1 and you currently wear a 7 makes it likely that a 7.5 is too long. It's generally not a good idea to go longer to deal with width or depth issues. The good news is, the Vapor X2.9 size 7 Fit 2 you already have may really work well for you. If they don't, then trying a 7EE Jetspeed FT485 or a 6.5R True TF7/TF9 would likely be the next best options in my opinion. A 7.5 in Bauer or CCM or a 7 in True would likely be too long after baking and break in (they might feel like the right length before that, especially if they're too narrow).

No, you not liking the graphics of the Trues or the Tacks doesn't bother me; I just think fit should always be the priority when it comes to equipment. If two things fit equally well then you might as well pick the gear that you feel looks better. I'd just rather be in a pair of skates that fits really well, but don't look great than in something that is very aesthetically pleasing, but isn't that comfortable. If you can find something that you feel looks great and is comfortable for you; great. I was only pointing out the option of taking off graphics with a bit of acetone and elbow grease because I saw people in other threads do it. I haven't bothered removing graphics myself. Don't get me wrong, I'm not opposed to making choices based on aesthetics - I've gone out of my way to buy socks, shells and gloves that match adult rec hockey uniforms. That's totally unnecessary, but I do like matching when I can. There are plenty of players who play better than me with mismatched socks, pants and gloves that don't match their jerseys at all. Everyone is free to make their own choice. I like to look good as much as the next guy and try to get things that look good, but prioritize fit, comfort and performance; great aesthetics is a nice bonus though. The True 30 day guarantee was supposed to end on December 31, 2021, but Ice Warehouse announced through a FB post that True chose to extend it. I guess the HM employee didn't get the memo yet. I do think the True skates are a good value, but I don't want to seem like I'm hell bent on pushing you into them. I don't work for them or get any kick backs. If the Bauer or CCM skates work better for you, definitely get those. It's great that Pure is allowing you to sharpen, bake and try the Vapors. You might as well do that. I hope they work well for you.

With the TF7, it's not surprising you had hotspots without baking them. For most people, in the right size that's how they'll feel and your toes will be hard against the cap (more than just brushing). If your toes weren't hard against the cap and you can fit into a 7 in SuperTacks and Ribcor, you'd actually likely need a 6.5. They change a lot with baking, but if you're really hung up on the looks and can find a good fit in something more aesthetically pleasing, that's up to you. I think the associate is right that the Supreme size Fit 2 would fit very similar to the Vapor X2.9 Fit 2. The Vapor does have a different toe box and some different materials, but the last would be the same. You mentioned 7 Fit 2 though and in your original post you mentioned 7.5. Do you have a 7 or 7.5 Vapor? If you'd be a 7 lengthwise in the CCMs and wanted to try a 7 Fit 2 in Supreme, you'd likely also need a 7 Fit 2 in Vapor and not 7.5. Maybe you should've also tried on a CCM FT475 in a 7D. It may seem illogical to go smaller if you're already getting hot spots, but if you're in boots that are a half size too long then the widest part of the boot may not line up with the widest part of your foot. Dropping down a half size could possibly help - it may not, but it could be worth trying. Personally, I would go for the best fit (and you can't really judge that until after baking, especially with the Trues) rather than focusing on aesthetics. Some things like colour accents can be removed with a little acetone (there are threads here of people doing that with both CCM and True skates - basically blacking them out). Here's one example of the Tacks (and you could use a fabric pen on the other parts) and if you keep going in the thread there are also links to pictures of the FT1 with the graphics removed: You can see a TF9 ice to inline conversion in this thread where the blue graphics were stripped off: