z1ggy

Can confirm after coming from Mako II's... Nothing else out there fits like it. I have no experience with True but from what I hear it's got that same anatomical fit as the Mako. Biggest difference from Bauer, CCM etc will be toe box. Now that I'm in FT1 I really miss that Mako toe box. If you slapped that on my FT1's I would be thrilled.

That's my issue... my Mako's really starting to break down on me. I have a few weird boney protrusions on my foot so I do probably want to use the 3D scan fit tool. Have a little wider forefoot myself but my heel is so narrow and my foot volume so low that Supreme's or AS1 is just too big. 1X too narrow in the forefoot... but then DD too big, so on and so on. Glad to hear the Jetspeed is working out for another Mako user. How'd you feel about the overall pitch of the FT1 boot & holder? I had my Mako's fitted with neutral step steel and small shims under my front tower because I felt the pitch was really aggressive. Much happier with this pitch now.

Anybody coming from Mako I/II go into FT1 or plan to go into FT2? Any thoughts/feed back on fit etc would be helpful. Thx.

Those look like Mako's had a love child with some Jetspeeds or something.... haha. Very interesting...Could it possibly some kind of prototype? Toe caps look just like my Mako's but obviously the "outsole" and QP is very different, along with eyelets.

Funny coincidence, I'm going to rebake mine tonight at the recommended spec above. I bought some clamps from hardware store to try and really dial in my ankle/heel fitment... Can you squeeze on that hard carbon fiber heel area with clamps right after the bake? I've used a heat gun on the boot before to press and punch in little areas on the sides, but I'm trying to use these clamps to press in as much of the heel/ankle area as possible. Don't want to crack or break these in the process.

Paging Dr Boucicaut - Please tell me what you'd need from me in order to make this happen. I've got pics of said issues, etc. Looking to try to fix this soon if possible.

After talking with somebody, I've been advised to NOT let hockey monkey touch my Mako's as far as fixing the holder issue. Since this means shipping my skates somewhere... can somebody suggest a shop in the US that would be the best place to send these? If somebody will know who does quality skate repair its gotta be here on MSH.

Not to be rude, trying to help - Step 1) Take out cell phone, and take photos Step 2) Go on the internet, go to Imgur.com and make an account Step 3) Download the imgur app for your phone Step 4) Use app to upload photos to your imgur account Step 5) Use the links provided in Imgur to post embedded photos here This should take you all of 10 minutes.

It's certainly not mental as I measured the offset with my tape measure. The left skate is installed about 1/8'' closer to the toe than the right one (not sure which is actually correct) and the rear tower is about 1/16 to 3/16 closer to the outside of the boot than the right holder's set up. Since the left skate doesn't feel balanced like the right one, I assume the entire holder is done improperly. For the past 4 years, I thought it was all in my head like you said ... but then I had to measure and find out it was real. I'll have to see what Hockey Monkey says with regards to filling the holes and redrilling. Now that I've confirmed my suspicion I feel the imbalance even more so when I am out there.

Anyone else experience their holders being installed slightly crooked? I've got pics I can post if need be, but I measured both my holder placement and they are different. The left skate holder is closer to the toe of the boot than the right, and also it's slightly skewed in the back toward the outside of the heel. This makes it tough to get my skate blade flat on the ice and also I've got to work just a hair harder to get on the outside edge. Called hockey monkey to see if they can fix but I'm not hopeful. They need to be moved less than the width of a rivet, so I'm not quite sure how that would work. It's a shame too because they are pretty much a perfect form fit for my foot. So much better than my old Vapors from 2008. I'm considering maybe FT1's but it's extremely unlikely they'll fit as good. Also considering VH/True but I'm reading some horror stories over on that thread... For all the money they are worth people seem to be having some issues.

Not an expert but have to agree with the commentors here - Looks like a poor fit and that because of a poor fit (loose near the top of the ankle area) here's wrenching the crap out of the skate to tighten it up enough when playing. Seems like it's maaaaybe True's fault for making a poorly fit skate, but the OP should not have worn and played on these for 8 months. Almost immediately he should have noticed poor/loose fit. Shame because he says down below he's not even going to bother trying to get it fixed. Somewhat odd that True isn't offering to at least repair for free. Also, I say above about guys saying True doesn't make totally custom lasts anymore... this other person seems to think the same - "One of the shops I hang out at. Lots of rivet issues. There’s been some threads on here too about other wear issues. My guess is it’s biased to people complaining. Now that they’re not doing custom lasts (I’ve heard) I feel like I’m seeing people with more fit issues. Nick G in this forum has had a couple of pairs. He’s a good one to weigh in."

How can smu's skates be that off if he got the 3D print? I could see if you did the stencil because of user error but a 3D scan seems pretty fool proof. Now I'm questioning if I want to go through with it...

I've heard people say this, interested to know, too. I will say though.. my Mako's are crazy light and taking a shot off them is literal foot death. I got a horrible deep bruise and perhaps small fracture from a slap shot. Couldn't walk for days after and my ankle didn't bend the same way (took the shot off the met guard) for months. I almost want a slightly heavier for beefy skate to help stop this.

Yeah my #1 thing I'd be looking for is better heel lock and maybe just a hair more width around the mid foot... but with a 3D scan there shouldn't be any issues I'd assume. The boot should have a little protrusion from that 5th met bone I'd wager? I also didn't love how forward pitched the mako holder is. It felt significantly more forward than Tuuk which I was in for years. I'm pretty much used to it now but I always felt a little more stable on the slightly more neutral tuuk's.

Certainly helpful. My only real gripe with the Mako fit is the heel area. I have a pretty large 5th met bone but I was able to punch that out enough to get rid of the hot spot but the heel area I could never manage to fit me right now matter how much I tried. I tend to have a more narrow/pointy heel and I feel like that the Mako's is just a touch more open and round back there. I tried squeezing the crap out of it while heating it up... not much help. If LHS can't adjust my holders I'll probably have to go VH so it's good to hear these fit even better.

I'm in Mako II's since they came out and I love the fit for the most part (little heel slip) but my holders have either become bent or were installed wrong. Left boot is now noticeably more biased toward my inside edge than the right. I'm trying to bring them in to LHS for a fix but I'm looking to figure out my options if they can't do anything for me. I've got a local store in NYC that fits for these and I've read on Reddit and it seems that most people love these boots and the process of the 3D fit at this store. I have a unique foot and I've tried on every skate under the sun since 2015 and nothing has felt right really other than Mako, but the heel is a bit deep and rounded compared to my more narrow/pointy heel. I've also got fairly low volume foot, so much so that the newer vapors have even had a little too much room. Anybody shed light on going from Mako to VH or point me to the page in this thread which discusses that?

Looks really clean dude. I did a slightly less clean job which I will post a pic of later, but I just blacked mine out last night. I actually left the heel alone but I love the carbon fiber look, but I blacked out all the orange and silver. I did leave the quarter alone, but I might plasti dip it black like you did later on. I want to see how it holds up for now in games. I have a game tonight so I'll get a feel for what the results will be. Edit: Here's mine. Bit of glare due to the lighting. Also shrunk the original because they were huge and that would annoy you all.

How does anybody like the Powerfoot relative to superfeet?

What radius are you on and how long have you been in the current skates? When I switched from stock Mako steel to Step (with +2 overall from +3), the first few times I transitioned from front to back, I often caught the rear part of my runner on the ice. I got used to it after about 10 minutes.

Not that I know of. If you plan on keeping the CXN holders but getting Step Steel, the following will occur: Neutral profile steel = +2 overall feel -1 pitch steel = +1 overall -2 pitch steel = neutral overall I have no experience using negatively pitched steel and honestly that just sounds like a weird idea/concept. If you truly feel like +2 is too much for you, I'd honestly just put Tuuks and stock Bauer steel on, and call it a day.

@ Gogovs - No to the best of my knowledge Mako boot is neutral, all the pitch comes from holder and runner set up. Not even sure how one really makes a boot itself have pitch to it. @Jimmy - I have superfeet yellow in my Makos. The little shim in the back does put you slightly on the toes a touch, but I've only ever skated in the stock Mako footbed once, so it's tough to compare and actually say you'd be +4 on a stock Mako plus yellow superfeet. There's a guy on here who actually measured a bunch of holders and did some math to figure out what heights of the various holders gave what type of profile. I'd guess using superfeet would put you at something like a +3.2, if there was such a thing.

There has been so much discussion on this topic already here. The CXN holder provides roughly a +2 pitch, and the stock Easton runner provides another +1 in pitch. The overall stock Mako skate is a +3. If you put on stock Tuuk's plus stock LS steel, you will be at roughly +0, just like you would be on a normal Vapor/Supreme/Nexus set up. I have not used Bauer's in a while, so somebody can correct me on the stock pitch of the LS blade if it is not neutral. At least back when I had Vapor XXXs it was a totally neutral set up.

As far as I know, CXN lines up with Tuuk.

@grindr28 - INSIST to your LHS that they are baked before you buy. If they know anything about the Mako's, then they'd know these skates can be baked many times. So far, I've baked mine 5 different times to achieve a literal air tight lock on my foot, and the boot is fine. If the hell lock is good, go with D width. Like others have said, you can always punch the boot out around the forefoot to make it more comfortable. I had to do this on both feet where my 5th met bone is, because mine protrudes rather far.

I think the biggest thing Bauer could do if they were going to cannibalize the Easton skate technology, is to make the toe box anatomical. Nobody's foot is shaped like a "U" and ends up leaving negative space or cramped/squished toes. The extreme mold-ability of the skate was a huge plus, too.