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GunRunner last won the day on September 16 2015

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  1. I did a quick search on here and didn't seem to come up with anything. Is anyone familiar with or have had any dealings with https://customhockeyuniforms.com/
  2. I believe it will come down to personal preference and what feels best. I play D, I'm 5'9" and I wear CCM Ultra Tacks 17" Shin guards over my tongue. There is nothing worse than taking a heavy shot to the laces so that's why I overlap my shins over my tongue.
  3. I think 15 clicks of adjustment for any skate is not common or normal. If I had to adjust 15 clicks on a player skate, that tells me there is a problem with the blade and I would start looking into it. Just to give you an idea, I adjust 18 clicks down from a player skate setting for goalie steel because goalie steel is 4mm thick where player steel is 3mm thick. Since goalie steel is visibly thicker than player steel and I'm adjusting 18 clicks for that, then 15 clicks is a lot for player steel. I have had steel that I was sharpening that was bent and had to compensate with a lot of clicks on either the toe or heel dial to get even edges and that is one of those times where I had to investigate to find the problem. I would say if you were sharpening a pair of skates, about 4 clicks of adjustment from one skate to the other would be acceptable. Usually, in a pair of skates, each skate is pretty much the same as the other. The only skates that are usually not even close are the cheap skates where the steel is not removable and is formed into the holder. If the steel is removable, they are usually the same.
  4. In regards to the wheels, I use the ruby wheels and noticed that they are no longer listed on Blackstone's website. Does anyone know if they discontinued the 4" ruby wheels? I wish they offered all the wheels in 4" that they do in 8". I also wish I knew what abrasive company they source their wheels through and just buy straight from them. I get tired of having to buy $150 worth of stuff to get free shipping and not pay their overinflated shipping prices.
  5. I tried using the calibration block from Blackstone and I feel that it is a complete piece of junk and a waste of time, doesn't even get you close. When I set my machine up, I took a micrometer and measured the true thickness of the wheel and then found the center and made a small mark with a thin sharpie. Next, I mic'd the steel and found the center and marked it as well. I put the boot in the holder and adjusted the holder until the two lines were even. Now, all of this worked because I originally had to adjust the arbor for the stone so that the center of the dressing from the spinner was actually in the center of the stone. On my machine, it seemed like a new worker put it together and was not correct. Luckily for me, I have a machining background and unlucky for me I have extreme OCD.
  6. I think in regards to the knobs, there are multiple ways to skin a cat. If memory serves me correct, Blackstone says to not touch the pitch knob but what they don't tell you is that if you are making large adjustments (around 6 clicks or more on the toe and heel knob) you are going to have to adjust the pitch. I actually adjust all three to move the blade up or down to get even edges. If you adjust just the toe and heel knob, you are in theory adding more pitch and are basically taking the high edge away. I'm sure multiple ways would give you the same results, I just feel that the way I do it works best for me.
  7. I take a piece of leather and run it down the blade back and forth, similar to how you would use a stone. I also have a Lansky Leather Hone and use it the same way as a stone. Good results with both and seems to do the trick. I feel that I get far less burs with FBV than I do when I sharpen ROH.
  8. For any of the steel that is polished or black coated, I don't use a stone because like you mentioned, it will scratch the polished finish and can/will compromise the coating if they are coated. I use a piece of leather to clean the edge instead of a stone for the polished and coated steel. Same concept of stropping an edge after sharpening a knife or razor.
  9. I've never had the retail version but I can say that the pro stock ones that I have are tanks. I was in Bauer Supreme One90's prior to my Warriors and the Warriors I feel is much more protective and padded than my Supreme's. When I put my Warriors in my bag, they don't fold or compress like my Supreme's do and they are more rigid.
  10. I have the QRL Pro Stock pants in a Large and they fit good but maybe a tad too large on me. I am 5'9", I weigh 200 lbs. and my waist measures 37.25" with a seamstress' tape measure and my hips measure 40.25". Depending on the pants, I wear a size 34 or 36. I wear a lot of the Carhartt carpenter style pants and those are in a 36. I like the way the pants fit and are super beefy but the only thing I'm not crazy about is the tailbone pad. When I cinch down the belt at the waist, it kind of bunches the tailbone pad and pants up and is kind of annoying. I've gotten used to it but that's why I say they may be a tad large on me. Hope this helps.
  11. Thanks for the info, and I forgot to mention how I carry my weight. I wear a 34"-36" pant depending on the pant. My jeans are typically 34" but I mostly wear Carhartt cargo style pants and those are 36". I would say the majority of my weight is carried in the butt, hips, and legs. I can only wear certain style pants because most will stop at my upper thigh and hips and I can't get them the rest the way on. Don't know if this helps but I just used one of those soft tape measures like a seamstress would use and got these measurements. Waist - 37.25" Hips - 40.25" Thighs - 23"
  12. I am 5'9" and weigh 200 lbs. and I'm trying to figure out what size 9K girdle I would need. I've read where they run a little on the small side and didn't know if an XL would be too big. I have worn both Bauer Supreme pants and I'm in Warrior QRL pro stock pants now an both of those are size Large. Thanks I'm advance, I've never worn a girdle and only pants.
  13. I coach a Squirt House team and all of my kids or on the 90/75 FBV which is equivalent to or supposed to be comparable to 3/4 ROH. I have kids that are good skaters, to kids that are only in their second year skating and are not good skaters. None of them struggle with the more shallow cut and I feel that if they can learn their edges on more shallow cut, it will benefit them in the long run and make them better skaters. Some of my kids are even in the 50-60 lbs. range and they do good on it. Just my 2 cents
  14. I did forget about the cost of the steel since he is going to a different size runner, so I do agree with your $150. I also agree with it being a fairly quick job, I don't have a rivet press so I can't do my own but I had a pair replaced within a couple of hours. You also make a great point about foot traffic in the door which usually results in an additional sale. When there was a Players Bench (who Total Hockey bought out) in Columbus Ohio, they replaced my holders in a couple of hours when no one else would touch them in my area. It was by far the best customer service experience I've had which resulted in a loyal customer and I sung their praises to everyone I could. It also resulted in making a pretty good friend with the guy that did my holders. So I do agree that there are big benefits to not turning business away. But like I said, I appreciate Jimmy's honesty and he must have felt it was best for him to refer another shop.
  15. Well at least he was honest, I'd rather him tell me he's too busy than taking my skates and having them for a couple weeks. Besides, how much does it cost to get holders installed in your area? No Icing's website says $34.99 a skate and an extra charge since the OP wants a longer holder. Can't imagine it would be anywhere near $150 though.
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