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VegasHockey

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Posts posted by VegasHockey


  1. Do most of you use the standard #8/9/10 steel rivets?

    Has anyone experimented with rivets with a larger diameter head? What about different head types? 

    Tried various materials other than basic steel, such as aluminum, bronze, or zinc coated steel?

    Lastly, has anyone tried using tubular rivets that have a hollow head? 


  2. 1 hour ago, jmy74 said:

    Got new skates and they feel great on my feet other than my arches. I am wondering if i can use a hair dryer to flatten out the arches a little bit.

    Do you have flat arches and the skate has too much of an arch built in? 


  3. 4 minutes ago, h4ckb0x7 said:

    Do you think it would be worthwhile replacing the SB4.0 on my Super Tacks AS1's?

    If you are due to get new steel it might make sense to spend a little cash to get the holders swapped too as they are quite nice. We have a few players skating on them and they like how stiff they are the quick change mechanism. Performance wise I haven't heard any players comment on better or worse. 


  4. 23 hours ago, Steven B said:

     

    I think that your volume fit looks good to me. If your heel feel locked-in plus that you don't have any lace bite, you should be good to go. You won't have to crank your laces as hard as you're used to because the vapor is more close to the top of your foot. 

     

    1

    +1


  5. @STEP_Official With other companies like RamonEdge and Flare making wider steel, has STEP considered getting into that market as well? I know this is not anything new, CCM released steel that was wider than 3mm about a decade ago and it didn't really "take off" but it seems with all of the advancements in skates that steel has stayed relatively ordinary. 


  6. On 10/3/2016 at 10:26 PM, Mimizk said:

    In generally, 99.9% local shops don't have "copy machine" which can copy A's profile and output it to B runner.
    So probably the most closest thing with your wish is that to find a CCM runner of your size from anywhere and trace it onto radius contoured LS3 steel with a pen or spray, then contour again by free hand according to the traced line.

    True, thankfully my shop does 🙂 


  7. 1 hour ago, hockeydad3 said:

    I was on a stock radius of 10` with a 95/75 FBV on my Nexus2900 6.5D.I´m 95kg 170 cm, 51 jears old, beginner level. I was searching for a little more stability and glide. Wanting a 11` radius`, my lhs convinced me to try 13` with 90/50 FBV and neutral pitch. Way more glide and stability and enough bite, feeling OK for me. My agility decreased a little but is tolerable. But how could i determine if the radius is right, or too long for me without going to 11` and then maybe back to 13`?

    There is no way to determine if thats the best fit for you other than to change and test. 13' is nice but its quite long and requires strong legs and is really designed for big ice, like Olympic size. I would absolutely suggest trying the 12' and 11' 


  8. 2 hours ago, stick9 said:

    Has to know someone seeing how he's got Step for an unreleased holder.

    I have the XS holders and STEP as well. CCM has been shipping the new holders on a lot of the custom skates lately. All of the customs I have seen come into the shop lately had STEP. 


  9. 2 hours ago, IPv6Freely said:

    Any pain I had when I got my VH was alleviated by not tying the skate so tight. There's no reason to tie tightly with that kind of foot wrap. 

    I also see a lot of issues with customers who get their VH/TRUE skates and then crank on the laces, and/or lace from the outside in, and/or use wax laces. I feel like non-waxed laces and lacing from the inside out allows the laces to slip a little and properly distribute the tightness across the entire facing of the skate. Also, as mentioned, you should pull them enough to remove the slack but it's not really necessary to crank down on the laces. 

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