VegasHockey

You can spray them with this. I do it with most of my insoles. Also prevents them from absorbing water too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-15-oz-Black-Truck-Bed-Coating-Spray-248914/202097787

I can appreciate that a commercial sharpener like BladeMaster, Blackstone, and ProSharp deliver a better overall finish. We have all of those + SSM units at our stores. But if you did blind testing I bet many individuals would never be able to notice the difference.

My nephew is 10 years old and skates on a 3/4 FIRE ring without any issues so I dont think it has to do with weight specifically. Many of the players on his team also skate on 3/4" ROH and flatter as well. I think it has a lot to do with the profile of the blade and what hollow you are accustomed to. Many kids now learn to skate on an 11/12/13' or longer profile and a much more shallow ROH which allowed them to develop advanced edge control at a very young age before moving them to a more aggressive combination radius and as such, as they advanced they went with an even more flat ROH. On the other hand, all of the adults prefer 1/2-5/8" because they like the control it provides. They dislike that a flat hollow doesnt let them feel like they are entirely in control. Factually, the edges are still there, regardless of depth, it just requires you to force the engagement of the edges to bite into the ice. If you aren't accustomed to this and don't allow time to adjust it can give the feeling of being "out of control." I am not saying one is better than another, we all skate differently, have different body mechanics, different body types, skill levels, and tons of other variables. I think people should use what's best for them. However, the only way to progress and get more speed with less effort is to be lighter, more powerful, alter your profile, and go with a flatter hollow. You cannot cheat science and sports like hockey have the same limitations as drag racing, for example. https://www.pcs.cnu.edu/~David.Gore/Capstone/files/MercerD.pdf https://www.nytimes.com/2009/06/23/science/23SharpW.html https://blogs.sparxhockey.com/hollow-shape-and-depth https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/50eb/c950bb2c53e7c8b05b8491bfc2fa15cc4bf6.pdf

Its something we co-developed but I can send you a sample to test. We aren't currently selling it to retail but have a few WHL, AHL and NHL players testing it. I have not used the Wissota Speed Skate, but assume its some type of very fine gummi stone inside of the holder which removes the ridges and such without compromising the hollows edges.

I sharpen a ton of skates and am neurotic and OCD when it comes to the process of sharpening. A 5/8 on a BladeMaster, ProSharp, or BlackStone is the same as a Sparx. Where there might be a small feeling of difference is not taking off the burr entirely from the Sparx sharpening or getting the same level of finish on the blade. I use some special sauce after I sharpen, and a gummi stone to clean the hollow after I deburr skates on the Sparx. It looks like a mirror. If you just take the skates of the Sparx machine, lightly deburr it, it will not feel nearly as sharp as using a manual or semi-automated machine. Once blade sharpening is complete and the steel is still slightly warm, I then coat the blade completely in another product. Let is stand for approx 2 minutes before wiping the remainder off with a towel/cloth. The finish and glide is amazing.

I would say the 5/8 FIRE feels like 3/4 ROH, with more glide, and the 3/4 FIRE feels like 1" ROH, with more glide. If you like more "float" than you will likely love it. I personally cannot skate on the 5/8" FIRE as its still too sharp for me.

I dont know where you got that from. If anything, the hollow on the Sparx ring is more accurate becuase diamond coated wheels dont flex unlike aluminum oxide/silicon carbide when pressure is applied.

MAP prevents the use of discount codes for online purchases on price protected products.

You can get scanned for free.

I think the entire time I have been shaprening skates I have only had to adjust the pitch knob when someone else screwed with it and messed up the pitch. Otherwise I nvever needed to touch it.

If you want actual photos I can take some tomorrow when I am home and not at the rink.

I have some custom Bauer sticks with his curve. It's basically a P28 with a little less toe and the lie on the toe is slightly more aggressive compared to a P28.

All I can say is we sell mostly TRUE custom and some CCM custom. We have had just as many issues with CCM as TRUE by volume so I take everything with a grain of salt. We have actually had players who had TRUE, didn't like them, tried CCM custom, didn't like those either, and went Bauer retail and were happy as a clam. Also have had people go from custom CCM to TRUE and also were happy.

This is the most recent catalog https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pS3Jabo1-CBKwc20AM6K3jxd7W9KrQrH Current retail order form: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1eweHfsIwKJUmwr7NHL5roeYeSCXjlDcN

I think this is only one the one-piece boot options and at the retail level.

I like these too

7/16 and 1/2 seem to be 90% and I used a BlackStone BAT Gauge

We sharpen both hockey and figure skates and the Sparx works well for general figure skate steel. Nothing high end or special like a Jackson Ultima Matrix or high end Paramount blade.

That's about right. Blades that are more worn or damaged are considerably louder and sound like they have more chatter than blades that basically just need a fresh edge versus repairing a damage.

Over time you will get even more comfortable and will likely move from 5/8 to 3/4, that is the typical progression with more players that switch to TRUE. Once you have full control of your edges you don't need to rely on such an aggressive hollow and your legs, knees and thighs with thank you for this. One thing you noticed which usually catch most by surprise is how the boot FORCES you into a hockey position. If you fight it you will get tired quickly. However, give your body time to reset and your ergonomics to adjust. Your body mechanics need to reset and this will take a few weeks. Did you get the SHIFT holders?

I don't understand how TRUE specifically has instructional videos and in them they state to tighten the laces at a very nominal percent compared to normal, just to snug up the boot, and then rely on the shrink wrap to handle the forming of the boot. No one seems to either watch the videos or do what they have been told. I make ALL of our staff watch the videos and take the TRUE certifications and we NEVER have issues like this.

I think the caps don't sit as snug as the CL and U+ but yes, they are just as light, breathable and do offer great mobility.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BqggABouysirDoEX6

Crosby is not the only player still using that hodler, Subban is another. If you look around you will see quite a few guys preferring to use that holder over TUUK or newer CCM holders. That holder is very stiff and some of the players like that it sits a little lower to the ice vs the newer holders. Also, I have seen Crosby change his lacing a few times. Typically he drops the top eyelet but my understanding was when he switched to a newer boot he had them cut with a shorter ankle and he started to do a lace lock with the top eyelets, skipping one from the top.

+1 on both. With TRUE skates you barely need to take the slack out of the skates. Also, do NOT use waxed laces.